213 Watt LED Nirvana Northern Lights Grow
- Thread starter GP73LPC
- Start date
DocZ
Member
The Voyage Continues!
The Voyage Continues!
Hey Thanks for the welcome GP!
Nice to meet a fellow cannabis and capsicum fan with DWC and Hydro experience! I too have been "off the bubblers" and back again; now using them for a Hydro-boost to the roots that extend into the run-off trays that hold my pots with organic soil.
I was going to comment on the glow in the dark LED's, as I remember the E-Shine thread well, and now have seen what some drivers can do (or can't do) when designed on the edge of capabilities...
I also ran a 4X4 tent with 5 MrX style EVOS, and 4 out of 5 are still on, but with 2 added T8 Lithonia shop lights from Home Depot.
(I still use the heat-producing T12's for sprouting capsicum!!)
With just the LED's, the temperature never did come up for Veg, and all I have is a 5000BTU window A/C....
Also I have not seen the flowering density and rate like my 400 dual MH/HPS combo with 2 LED bars produces.
I had to re-dial-in my gro-mix and reduce the water also, as the transpiration rate went way down, as others in your threads have noted. This may not work if you still have a bleed-over form your switch or ground problem, but some of the LED power supplies discharge very slowly, and stay on like glow-in the dark ceiling stars. It will be hard to tell, without a off-switch on the old HAL-5000, ...but maybe not a problem with light poisoning.
Good Luck, See ya' around! ...And don't forget to read yur Technical Journals!
Best Regards-
The Voyage Continues!
Hey Thanks for the welcome GP!
Nice to meet a fellow cannabis and capsicum fan with DWC and Hydro experience! I too have been "off the bubblers" and back again; now using them for a Hydro-boost to the roots that extend into the run-off trays that hold my pots with organic soil.
I was going to comment on the glow in the dark LED's, as I remember the E-Shine thread well, and now have seen what some drivers can do (or can't do) when designed on the edge of capabilities...
I also ran a 4X4 tent with 5 MrX style EVOS, and 4 out of 5 are still on, but with 2 added T8 Lithonia shop lights from Home Depot.
(I still use the heat-producing T12's for sprouting capsicum!!)
With just the LED's, the temperature never did come up for Veg, and all I have is a 5000BTU window A/C....
Also I have not seen the flowering density and rate like my 400 dual MH/HPS combo with 2 LED bars produces.
I had to re-dial-in my gro-mix and reduce the water also, as the transpiration rate went way down, as others in your threads have noted. This may not work if you still have a bleed-over form your switch or ground problem, but some of the LED power supplies discharge very slowly, and stay on like glow-in the dark ceiling stars. It will be hard to tell, without a off-switch on the old HAL-5000, ...but maybe not a problem with light poisoning.
Good Luck, See ya' around! ...And don't forget to read yur Technical Journals!
Best Regards-
S
SeaMaiden
my goal was to help others understand that LEDs are viable now and good enough now to grow some killer cannabis.
there is still a shitload of doubters out there, but we LED growers are winning them over 1 at a time.
Once I saw, years ago, that people were not only growing hermatypic photosynthetic aquatic organisms with LED lighting, but on occasion BURNING them? I knew it would only be a matter of time before the manufacturers would figure out the right spectra for horticultural applications.
Indoor growers are concerned with the inverse square law as it applies to their lighting, and people growing the organisms I mention above are not only contending with that, but with the problem of pushing light through water, which is not insignificant.
ANYONE who says they can't/won't work for growing terrestrial photosynthetics is just ignorant, plain and simple.
Hey Thanks for the welcome GP!
Nice to meet a fellow cannabis and capsicum fan with DWC and Hydro experience! I too have been "off the bubblers" and back again; now using them for a Hydro-boost to the roots that extend into the run-off trays that hold my pots with organic soil.
I was going to comment on the glow in the dark LED's, as I remember the E-Shine thread well, and now have seen what some drivers can do (or can't do) when designed on the edge of capabilities...
I also ran a 4X4 tent with 5 MrX style EVOS, and 4 out of 5 are still on, but with 2 added T8 Lithonia shop lights from Home Depot.
(I still use the heat-producing T12's for sprouting capsicum!!)
With just the LED's, the temperature never did come up for Veg, and all I have is a 5000BTU window A/C....
Also I have not seen the flowering density and rate like my 400 dual MH/HPS combo with 2 LED bars produces.
I had to re-dial-in my gro-mix and reduce the water also, as the transpiration rate went way down, as others in your threads have noted. This may not work if you still have a bleed-over form your switch or ground problem, but some of the LED power supplies discharge very slowly, and stay on like glow-in the dark ceiling stars. It will be hard to tell, without a off-switch on the old HAL-5000, ...but maybe not a problem with light poisoning.
Good Luck, See ya' around! ...And don't forget to read yur Technical Journals!
Best Regards-
i like those EVO's. can't wait to see some pics...
i've got my clones under only LED, temps about 72-74F, we will see if that is warm enough. working fine for my vegging babies...
on the discharging LED driver topic, i need to check those things right b4 the lights turn on and see if they are completely off and discharged. as i stated last time i talked about this they are very, very, very dim so i don't believe light poisoning will be an issue...
DocZ
Member
Looking good GP!
Multiply and overgrow...I gave up on rockwool quite a while back; but it looks like you have it down! I keep some other herbs and peppers in DWC/compost tea though...
Thanks for the Rep!
I did post a new thread, so I don't mooch too much on yours
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=257140
Now get back to fillin up yur space with green!
"keep them bubblers goin"
Multiply and overgrow...I gave up on rockwool quite a while back; but it looks like you have it down! I keep some other herbs and peppers in DWC/compost tea though...
Thanks for the Rep!
I did post a new thread, so I don't mooch too much on yours
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=257140
Now get back to fillin up yur space with green!
"keep them bubblers goin"
thanks Doc...
clones are very healthy. just took a peek a few mins ago. didn't look for roots, but i will here in a little while. i found rockwool and a humid, warm environment is all i need. bubblers and what not have not always worked well for me.
i also run peppers in DWC and they are not doing well. not sure what is happening. roots just aren't taking up water. having to hand water the rockwool and let it run down. don't know if it's the PH or what. roots had some brown slime so i put a half of cup or so of hydrogen peroxide. cleaned things up a bit, but not perfect. 200 ppm for 3 week to 2 month old pepper plants with a PH of 6.4 (PH is higher on my peppers than my cannabis plants, but that shouldn't be a problem with water intake from the roots. any ideas?)
the northern lights are happy and strong however. when i go look at the clones i will try to snap a couple of pics.
gonna check out your thread now.
clones are very healthy. just took a peek a few mins ago. didn't look for roots, but i will here in a little while. i found rockwool and a humid, warm environment is all i need. bubblers and what not have not always worked well for me.
i also run peppers in DWC and they are not doing well. not sure what is happening. roots just aren't taking up water. having to hand water the rockwool and let it run down. don't know if it's the PH or what. roots had some brown slime so i put a half of cup or so of hydrogen peroxide. cleaned things up a bit, but not perfect. 200 ppm for 3 week to 2 month old pepper plants with a PH of 6.4 (PH is higher on my peppers than my cannabis plants, but that shouldn't be a problem with water intake from the roots. any ideas?)
the northern lights are happy and strong however. when i go look at the clones i will try to snap a couple of pics.
gonna check out your thread now.
DocZ
Member
Hey GP-
I find that rainwater that collects from gutters and roof is the best thing for rooting cuttings. My gutters are poorly maintained due to "other priorities"; but I find and added bonus-they make compost tea that percolates down when it rains, then collects in a 750 gallon tank with an open vent. I don't know exact pH, as I use test solution, but it is below 7, where the tap water is 7.5+, and has dissolved calcium, even worse if you try to re-cycle soil. I used to measure everything when i did Hydro-Soil, but have seen the benefits of living organic soil.
Anyway, RW that has been dripped through the gutter clutter of local leaves and compost is all that is need to aero-root in about 1-2 weeks, even faster with a good natural rooting hormone (willow shoot tea, or NSR RootJuice). Bubble stones in the bottom of a Sterilite box with the lid inverted and 3/8 inch holes drilled add RW and cuts under low 24 hour light all U need. Of course, I also prep the cutting by trimming large leaves, and scratching the lowest leaf node area near the cut. I saw this on OG years back, and have used it since. I fill the box from one side to the other with cuttings, covering unused holes with foil, until it's full. Pull 'em when they show half inch roots or more, then into the media of yur choice. 
I actually use the same soil mix and methods with my peppers- except I like to put larger plants in the ground!
I still use DWC for basil- and regular herbs...I use EWC/Molasses Tea with added Maxicrop and cider vinegar (otherwise known as Garrett Juice) for soil fert, and also in DWC solution. Still got to have those bubblers to keep the O2 up tho!
I find that rainwater that collects from gutters and roof is the best thing for rooting cuttings. My gutters are poorly maintained due to "other priorities"; but I find and added bonus-they make compost tea that percolates down when it rains, then collects in a 750 gallon tank with an open vent. I don't know exact pH, as I use test solution, but it is below 7, where the tap water is 7.5+, and has dissolved calcium, even worse if you try to re-cycle soil. I used to measure everything when i did Hydro-Soil, but have seen the benefits of living organic soil.
Anyway, RW that has been dripped through the gutter clutter of local leaves and compost is all that is need to aero-root in about 1-2 weeks, even faster with a good natural rooting hormone (willow shoot tea, or NSR RootJuice). Bubble stones in the bottom of a Sterilite box with the lid inverted and 3/8 inch holes drilled add RW and cuts under low 24 hour light
all U need. Of course, I also prep the cutting by trimming large leaves, and scratching the lowest leaf node area near the cut. I saw this on OG years back, and have used it since. I fill the box from one side to the other with cuttings, covering unused holes with foil, until it's full. Pull 'em when they show half inch roots or more, then into the media of yur choice. I actually use the same soil mix and methods with my peppers- except I like to put larger plants in the ground!
I still use DWC for basil- and regular herbs...I use EWC/Molasses Tea with added Maxicrop and cider vinegar (otherwise known as Garrett Juice) for soil fert, and also in DWC solution. Still got to have those bubblers to keep the O2 up tho!
my clones are under 12/12
i am going to build a little box to run 24/0 with a little t5 39 watt bulb i have just for that purpose. and/or males at times. my living situation is temporary so when i build i will have sections for all. males, clones, females, selfed females, etc...
i do the same on my clones, leave a few tiny leaves, scrap the stem by the cut (45 degree cut) and rooting solution. using a little jiffy greenhouse and rockwool i'm at least 90% on my survival rates.
i am going to build a little box to run 24/0 with a little t5 39 watt bulb i have just for that purpose. and/or males at times. my living situation is temporary so when i build i will have sections for all. males, clones, females, selfed females, etc...
i do the same on my clones, leave a few tiny leaves, scrap the stem by the cut (45 degree cut) and rooting solution. using a little jiffy greenhouse and rockwool i'm at least 90% on my survival rates.
i just went back in the thread and saw this post.
will a digital timer fix this?
if so, what do you recommend....
you sir are a photographic genius. this worked wonderfully.
i am PM'ing you also, but you need to start a thread on this in the LED forum. it will more than likely be made a sticky too.
if you don't want to do it, let me know and i will. the LED community deserves to know this.
I found out about this from some one else on another forum and I agree, it works beautifully.
oneshot
Active member
It should. I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-DT...qid=1362635296&sr=8-15&keywords=digital+timer
cool, before i buy it i will take a light to a fellow growers house to make sure it's not the array itself.
yep, 31 days from cotyledons.
no alternating branches yet, but the male is ready !!!
DocZ
Member
Neat timer! The regular motor-driven dual timers I use have regular contacts that break the power to the Power supply(s); but the hassle is that they have to be re-set after power outages.cool, before i buy it i will take a light to a fellow growers house to make sure it's not the array itself.
I don't see it in the description, but do these keep the program with a battery or non-volatile memory when the power comes back on, or do U have to re-program?
On the Afterglow subject, I'm tryin to figure out how these will fix the E-Shine night-light effect? I guess if the Power supply holds a front-end capacitor charge when switched off, it's enough to keep the LED's lit for awhile. Maybe these fix the afterglow due to the fact that they "bleed" the voltage faster on the input side of the supply? In other words, are the contacts "solid-state", and have a bleed resistor on the output? Not all power supplies are created equal, and they are the weakest link in a LED system after any cooling fans and moving parts, of course. Meanwhile, back to the future...where's my flux capacitors?
