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Diary 1st time coco auto DTW & salts on FCE3000

Sampas92

Just newbin
Exciting!
Btw Mr. Dots, on the app each of them on high cri led 3000k around 700 to 750 ppfd, on 350k the same but in the 600's.

What you said about the leafs pointing up applys to what i said about them pointing the stronger scource? I didnt want to pass the message of a newb know it all, if thst was the case dont take it bad because it wasnt my intention..

Peace :tiphat:
 

Sampas92

Just newbin
End of day 23 and they got that Aloe gel from the leafs foliarly at nights out, i added a bit of epsoms too. I think ill foliar again before lights on. Watering and spraying them makes them real droopy
20220530_021832.jpg


The Skunk roots decided to say Hello world too, it seems disloged coco due to watering but it isnt.
20220530_013101.jpg

Im still bafled by the trich glands on my plants that are starting to grow their first pistils now, i saw it before in other growers in great genetics even at seedlings, but never i add this on any of my plants grown before.
20220530_005642.jpg
20220530_011338.jpg
20220530_013307.jpg
20220530_011603.jpg

Even tho the Skunk has the biggest leafs, the Super dont have them that small either, wich almost all of them will be in shade by the side branches fast
20220530_010023.jpg

20220530_013448.jpg
20220530_005649.jpg

They are drinking more now, geting +/- 1l for themselves a day now the Skunk and the Super being the more thirsty ones. Ec in was 1.5, out is ranging around 1.3, as i climb the ec they climb it too, i wonder how they will look when geting the same in and out
20220530_021812.jpg


Peace :tiphat:
 

.............

Active member
Btw Mr. Dots, on the app each of them on high cri led 3000k around 700 to 750 ppfd, on 350k the same but in the 600's.

What you said about the leafs pointing up applys to what i said about them pointing the stronger scource? I didnt want to pass the message of a newb know it all, if thst was the case dont take it bad because it wasnt my intention..

Peace :tiphat:
I have 3500k led boards and I use the 3000k high cri setting. I've compared the app on 2 different phones and the results stayed consistent, as well when I compare to my lux meter.

Not at all my friend, I like your thread because of discussion and comparing and learning.. !!
If it wasn't for @exploziv I wouldn't have tightened up my VPD and now I'm getting better results.. especially in veg, which needed less light😵 veg is very green and happy these days.

So 750ppfd and what is the DLI/mols per day? I don't have experience with autos so I'm not sure what is good for the stage you're at..

Ps looking great, those big ones look a little hungry maybe

Pps the aloe is a chelator so it binds with nutrients to help transport them, like calcium to the growing tips.. calcium is fairly immobile..
 

Sampas92

Just newbin
I have 3500k led boards and I use the 3000k high cri setting. I've compared the app on 2 different phones and the results stayed consistent, as well when I compare to my lux meter.

Not at all my friend, I like your thread because of discussion and comparing and learning.. !!
If it wasn't for @exploziv I wouldn't have tightened up my VPD and now I'm getting better results.. especially in veg, which needed less light😵 veg is very green and happy these days.

So 750ppfd and what is the DLI/mols per day? I don't have experience with autos so I'm not sure what is good for the stage you're at..

Ps looking great, those big ones look a little hungry maybe

Pps the aloe is a chelator so it binds with nutrients to help transport them, like calcium to the growing tips.. calcium is fairly immobile..
If i remember right, something around 50's and it was on red, i didnt forget to input the hours. I didnt move the light since they born tho, im thinking on raising a notch to see if they stretch a little bit and dont be that squaty.

Thing is, i live in an apartment with 4 cats, one dog, 3 people total. I guess we all contribute a little to it, never measured co2 and im not interested for now to be honest, but the logic its there i think.

Thanks Mr. Dots :D and thanks on the compliments, and believe me, i know how explo influences people :headbange and since you like to discuss...

I run Yara as you know..some could say its low in micros. Comercially it makes since since they sell a bunch of foliars and also iron to tweak.
For now i think they are not lacking anything regarding micros i think, and then it enters the logic of the ratios.
If they are good things work, play with them at different stages and things still work/"work", they lack or have excess raise or low ec, i get all of that logic.
Thing is, i for example, i insert jacks recipe or athena pro line, and i get pretty similar in all aspects except one and always one, iron. They all seem to run iron high, way higher than what i could possibly get with my line.
What i want to ask you, if you know, is why?
And then the following question; since i have iron dtpa, do you think my plants would look better if i aim to similar marks of other brands?
I think i could calculate things to maintain the ratios while giving more iron, thing i dont get is why. On the praised mulders chart there is a bunch of things pushing iron, i get the logic of them running it higher but i dont get the logic when im running the rest simillar and they dont look that bad. I know micros are important in a miriad of aspects, but i wonder how would they look in a similar range

I know about the good effects of Aloe, for what iv saw online between the millions of different informations, i think i have the right one and its free :D, could be better well maitained tho, i thought about feeding in watering but i leave that to other day.

Btw regarding the calcium and they being hungry, yeah, since day one. Learning curve takes its time but i guess they could be worse if they are indeed being pushed a bit on the hard side in light aspect and environmental too.
But i dont want the foliar to fix that. That i want fixed in the waterings. Thats why im thinking on tweaking things around the water report of the company, i think i will aim better the mg ratio and start chansing defficiences because of the different requirements and not from me not feeding them right. If boron indeed helps them move calcium in them, then its something i want to foliar in stretch and see if its not needed to up ca, just help them move it better, that, the biostimulants i used until now and ipm im interested on foliars, nutrients per se to fix things, not so much, im lazy.

Thanks again bro :D

Peace :tiphat:
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Since you guys like to talk so much, and also mentioned me a lot, I want to say last grow I tried to keep all canopy over 1000 and most tops were over 1200 ppfd (acording to that app). @............. , you saying I could have kept the light further away and get same results on a bigger surface, since I don't use CO2?
 

stiff

Well-known member
Veteran
I never heard of that scenario before. But sometimes mine are happy to grow past the light into the darkness 🤣
Edit: That was about your leafes growing towards the light...my page didn't show the latest answers,sry for the confusion)
 
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.............

Active member
If i remember right, something around 50's and it was on red, i didnt forget to input the hours. I didnt move the light since they born tho, im thinking on raising a notch to see if they stretch a little bit and dont be that squaty.
Well I leant to autos there is no limit just give as much light as possible. Don't raise the light you'll slow them down.. 750ppfd is good

Thing is, i live in an apartment with 4 cats, one dog, 3 people total. I guess we all contribute a little to it, never measured co2 and im not interested for now to be honest, but the logic its there i think.
Yes lots of co2 there.. if it makes it to the garden.. and because not many plants they won't deplete it quickly.
Thanks Mr. Dots :D and thanks on the compliments, and believe me, i know how explo influences people :headbange and since you like to discuss...

I run Yara as you know..some could say its low in micros. Comercially it makes since since they sell a bunch of foliars and also iron to tweak.
For now i think they are not lacking anything regarding micros i think, and then it enters the logic of the ratios.
If you want to test the plant health check the Brix with a refractometer.. when I was consistent with bio-stim foliar and drenches, plants would ooze sweet sap when I cut them..
If they are good things work, play with them at different stages and things still work/"work", they lack or have excess raise or low ec, i get all of that logic.
Thing is, i for example, i insert jacks recipe or athena pro line, and i get pretty similar in all aspects except one and always one, iron. They all seem to run iron high, way higher than what i could possibly get with my line.
What i want to ask you, if you know, is why?
Post the question in advanced botany sub or ask @f-e
All I can say is I almost bought this once..
Screenshot_20220530-172228_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

And then the following question; since i have iron dtpa, do you think my plants would look better if i aim to similar marks of other brands?
I think i could calculate things to maintain the ratios while giving more iron, thing i dont get is why. On the praised mulders chart there is a bunch of things pushing iron, i get the logic of them running it higher but i dont get the logic when im running the rest simillar and they dont look that bad. I know micros are important in a miriad of aspects, but i wonder how would they look in a similar range
I'm a bit afraid to mess with micros because they required in such tiny amounts.. I take what I can get in my base nutes and bio-stim.
I know about the good effects of Aloe, for what iv saw online between the millions of different informations, i think i have the right one and its free :D, could be better well maitained tho, i thought about feeding in watering but i leave that to other day.

Btw regarding the calcium and they being hungry, yeah, since day one. Learning curve takes its time but i guess they could be worse if they are indeed being pushed a bit on the hard side in light aspect and environmental too.
But i dont want the foliar to fix that. That i want fixed in the waterings. Thats why im thinking on tweaking things around the water report of the company, i think i will aim better the mg ratio and start chansing defficiences because of the different requirements and not from me not feeding them right. If boron indeed helps them move calcium in them, then its something i want to foliar in stretch and see if its not needed to up ca, just help them move it better, that, the biostimulants i used until now and ipm im interested on foliars, nutrients per se to fix things, not so much, im lazy.

Thanks again bro :D

Peace :tiphat:
Thank u too bro.

Since you guys like to talk so much, and also mentioned me a lot, I want to say last grow I tried to keep all canopy over 1000 and most tops were over 1200 ppfd (acording to that app). @............. , you saying I could have kept the light further away and get same results on a bigger surface, since I don't use CO2?
Don't be helpful and we won't mention you:p
In the chart net photosynthesis drops off after 400ppm co2 regardless of amount of light.. if I didn't have c02 personally id run 800-1000ppfd as most of the data suggests. And with that photosynthesis increases with leaf surface temp up to 30c and then falls off..
Screenshot_20220530-171318_Gallery.jpg
 

Sampas92

Just newbin
People discussing things in my thread, me like it :D

If you want to test the plant health check the Brix with a refractometer.. when I was consistent with bio-stim foliar and drenches, plants would ooze sweet sap when I cut them..
Dont have one, dont pretend to buy now..but i remember that sap flowing on my previous root aphid infested Kali China, real sweet
All I can say is I almost bought this once..
Sounds a nice product to diy something similar..i think i could also get the b12, but it was easy just by calnit and boric acid..maybe ill try it, i heard boron in flowering could make them finish faster (i think it was boron), maybe handy on long ass sativas..
I'm a bit afraid to mess with micros because they required in such tiny amounts.. I take what I can get in my base nutes and bio-stim
Yeah, already someone told me the same, i think with hydrobuddy and the targeted ec by doing concentrations could be easier..also its ones of the reasons why i dont get fulvics yet, fulvics with micros, fulvics with aminos, just fulvics..

Thanks bro lets see if @f-e joins the discussion :D

Since you guys like to talk so much, and also mentioned me a lot, I want to say last grow I tried to keep all canopy over 1000 and most tops were over 1200 ppfd (acording to that app). @............. , you saying I could have kept the light further away and get same results on a bigger surface, since I don't use CO2?
You are another one that likes to talk a lot :smoke out:

Peace :tiphat:
 

gizmo666

Active member
all that talk about ppfd baffles me i stick to the kiss method so i'll not jump in lol
your plants are looking excellent sampas the growth on the skunk is coming on(i tend to favour runts lol)
i bet it produces some cracking buds
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Fe deficiency is reasonably common. It's uptake is antagonised a lot by Ca. Where a feed might be used in Calcium fortified soils or coco, a bit more might be needed than in hydro. Hydro feeds formulated for tap may expect a lot of the needed Fe to come from the tap. Making the use of soft water an issue. Nearly every calmag booster contains Fe in the smallprint. Excess Fe mostly balances against Ca, hence they come together. Fe also acts against P, but the quantities of each mean we really won't see that. Having seen many labels, but having been nowhere near an AG college, I see 3.5ppm as a safe upper limit. Quite a few feeds run that high, but some run half of that and are for calcium rich soils. It doesn't seem necessary to run 3.5ppm but running that covers any likely Fe need. I have seen hydro labels below 1ppm, and used them with moderately hard water.

Of all the small stuff, Fe deserves a better look. It's regularly seen. The Canna trace mix has all the other small stuff, but leaves the Fe to be addressed separately.

It's cheap and easily obtained in chelated forms. The wise move is to look at your Ca. If you are adjusting your Ca upwards, then the Fe should follow.





I'm not sure about that co2 graph. Seeing the source would be interesting. I can't place it against other canna studies.
 

Sampas92

Just newbin
Fe deficiency is reasonably common. It's uptake is antagonised a lot by Ca. Where a feed might be used in Calcium fortified soils or coco, a bit more might be needed than in hydro. Hydro feeds formulated for tap may expect a lot of the needed Fe to come from the tap. Making the use of soft water an issue. Nearly every calmag booster contains Fe in the smallprint. Excess Fe mostly balances against Ca, hence they come together. Fe also acts against P, but the quantities of each mean we really won't see that. Having seen many labels, but having been nowhere near an AG college, I see 3.5ppm as a safe upper limit. Quite a few feeds run that high, but some run half of that and are for calcium rich soils. It doesn't seem necessary to run 3.5ppm but running that covers any likely Fe need. I have seen hydro labels below 1ppm, and used them with moderately hard water.

Of all the small stuff, Fe deserves a better look. It's regularly seen. The Canna trace mix has all the other small stuff, but leaves the Fe to be addressed separately.

It's cheap and easily obtained in chelated forms. The wise move is to look at your Ca. If you are adjusting your Ca upwards, then the Fe should follow.





I'm not sure about that co2 graph. Seeing the source would be interesting. I can't place it against other canna studies.
Thanks to join in bro, i like how you drop your wisdom @f-e :ying:
Well this is the first trimestral report of the water company, mn add a spike wich they said it wasnt normal and had at that date, pass away.
It doesnt specifies how low it is in some things but at calcium i can get a picture. Indeed when i started the grow the ec was around .28/.29, now its .39, drops to .34 after 24h tho
Screenshot_20220531-040410_Samsung Notes.jpg

I know things vary until final destination but i hypotheticaly add 25% of ca, made it to 3.1 to mg and got this, any opinions on specific ratios between ca:fe?
20220531_035702.jpg 20220531_040025.jpg

Im not talking about it because i think they lack something, just curious really. Also it helps me decide on what to buy regarding fulvics, with just plus aminos, or plus micros, or plus both and what not, and i wonder if with just micros and the fulvics i would affect it in a bad way because of the ratios going different and not knowing if they are targeted right or not, plus the feeding in general and if they could be better by just raising the micros and nothing else and not fucking them up.
20220531_030841.jpg
20220531_030833.jpg

all that talk about ppfd baffles me i stick to the kiss method so i'll not jump in lol
your plants are looking excellent sampas the growth on the skunk is coming on(i tend to favour runts lol)
i bet it produces some cracking buds
Thanks @gizmo666, the kiss method is for growing, jumping in to share what you think on it, join tha "We Newbin" and get free of your worries :D btw the skunk you talked about, your lettuce
20220531_030827.jpg
20220531_030822.jpg


Peace :tiphat:
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I hoped you wouldn't ask, but knew you would have to lol

There just hasn't been enough work done on this. We are still looking at the N P K Ca Mg end of things, with little done on sulphur. Fe might take a while. People are still looking at the big stuff. We can see things like Mn problems at the end, but just don't have any real studies. Back to the Canna Trace Mix. It says 1-2ml per liter. At 1ml per liter, it is about 10x stronger than their general purpose feeds supply. So, while their feeds should work, they feel adding 10-20 times more is viable. Not with Fe though. That 1ml would only double Fe.

I was just in another post. He's asking about his calmag, and offering a full printout of the stuff. For every 10 Ca it added 1 Fe. That looked extreme to me. As a 100ppm Ca feed would generally be about 3ppm Fe. Finding any solid ratio's to work with from data sets like these is a non-starter. His calmag, used to add a reasonable 30ppm Ca, would add 3ppm Fe, which seems like a full load. With many feeds, over 7ppm Fe. I would get cautions at that, especially if more comes from the tap.

It's proving difficult to give you a straight answer, with all the Fe and Ca sources at play.

Your zinc is low. Zn studies in other crops show it's remarkably important. Like 30% of the yield. They have been hitting them hard in testing, with foliar applications twice per outdoor season. It's again, difficult to bring the figures over. Though 0.1ppm is really quite low. It also antagonises Fe, but with 3.5ppm Fe you can at least get to 0.5ppm Zn

Canna Terra Grow : Fe0.7 Zn0.25 B0.25 Cu0.05 Mn0.5 Mo0.05
Canna Terra Bloom: Fe0.7 Zn0.3 B0.3 Cu0.05 Mn0.55 Mo0.05

Similar, but 10% more Mn, which is more pronounced in the trace mix. Zn and B also get raised almost 25%. It's small change. Perhaps due to sources of other things. It's still interesting though. Zn is flower and seed formation stuff. B is a huge player in Calcium usage, which is harder for our plants to get after stretch. It does make sense, and they do real business at Canna. Tissue sampling labs and everything.

Looking at that last printout, quite a lot of your trace stuff is a lot lower than other bottles I have looked over. I have used the moulder charts and I don't see any problems with bumping Zn and Fe but I do look at how low it all is, and think a more holistic approach might be better.
 

Sampas92

Just newbin
I hoped you wouldn't ask, but knew you would have to lol

There just hasn't been enough work done on this. We are still looking at the N P K Ca Mg end of things, with little done on sulphur. Fe might take a while. People are still looking at the big stuff. We can see things like Mn problems at the end, but just don't have any real studies. Back to the Canna Trace Mix. It says 1-2ml per liter. At 1ml per liter, it is about 10x stronger than their general purpose feeds supply. So, while their feeds should work, they feel adding 10-20 times more is viable. Not with Fe though. That 1ml would only double Fe.

I was just in another post. He's asking about his calmag, and offering a full printout of the stuff. For every 10 Ca it added 1 Fe. That looked extreme to me. As a 100ppm Ca feed would generally be about 3ppm Fe. Finding any solid ratio's to work with from data sets like these is a non-starter. His calmag, used to add a reasonable 30ppm Ca, would add 3ppm Fe, which seems like a full load. With many feeds, over 7ppm Fe. I would get cautions at that, especially if more comes from the tap.

It's proving difficult to give you a straight answer, with all the Fe and Ca sources at play.

Your zinc is low. Zn studies in other crops show it's remarkably important. Like 30% of the yield. They have been hitting them hard in testing, with foliar applications twice per outdoor season. It's again, difficult to bring the figures over. Though 0.1ppm is really quite low. It also antagonises Fe, but with 3.5ppm Fe you can at least get to 0.5ppm Zn

Canna Terra Grow : Fe0.7 Zn0.25 B0.25 Cu0.05 Mn0.5 Mo0.05
Canna Terra Bloom: Fe0.7 Zn0.3 B0.3 Cu0.05 Mn0.55 Mo0.05

Similar, but 10% more Mn, which is more pronounced in the trace mix. Zn and B also get raised almost 25%. It's small change. Perhaps due to sources of other things. It's still interesting though. Zn is flower and seed formation stuff. B is a huge player in Calcium usage, which is harder for our plants to get after stretch. It does make sense, and they do real business at Canna. Tissue sampling labs and everything.

Looking at that last printout, quite a lot of your trace stuff is a lot lower than other bottles I have looked over. I have used the moulder charts and I don't see any problems with bumping Zn and Fe but I do look at how low it all is, and think a more holistic approach might be better.
Again, thanks bro.

So from what iv understand i coulp tweak the ratios and could get more problems or not, got it.

I know with tap things change and theres is not much control, but i was curious indeed on how what im using differ to others, like you notice it.

I inserted canna too, since im using canna coco i thought before it was logical to adapt what i have for something similar to them, but they also mix humics and fulvics and aminos and what not so i guess it wouldnt work quite right

Thing is i can copy the trace mix of canna or any of them with the micros i have, its that holistic or you talking about something mixed with aminos or fulvics to chelate them more?

It would be interesting just bump B on stretch or flower or when they need more calcium instead of giving them more calcium, even tho in the recipe i have same thing is reached by moving the ratios slightly from what iv understand.

Edit: i know since im running on coco with one watering per day and hopefully multiple in a few days, some elements dont need to be that high due to always fresh solution and something that gets behind plus the chelator when its free binds to other ions and what not so...forgeting im using tap, in your opinion, could or should they be running a bit higher?if yes wich ones? Btw what you mean by holistic way?
Peace :tiphat:
 
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Sampas92

Just newbin
Middle of day 25
At least the Super and the Amnesia growed 3cm in height since a few hours ago wich makes them at around 40cm from the light at 65%
20220531_134504.jpg

All of them are getting thicker , bigger as the hours go by, im loving this, even more when the biggest ones are bulk seeds without banks behind, no know history of what they are
I got all the parts today to make the drip rings, im in doubt if i should lst them before or after i diy the rings, i would like to bend them a bit today since at least the Skunk is so squaty the leafs are all stacking up and in the middle of the dark cicle she had a bunch of them wet, either i cut something or bend something, bend sounds good if she would stretch a bit
20220531_134716.jpg

If the skunk was more spread out i think i wouldnt have much space left, hell i still think they will be to tight in the end, hope not
20220531_134631.jpg
20220531_134511.jpg


Peace :tiphat:
 
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