1k RWDC in Hydrohut tent
- Thread starter stussy22
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All the best for your growth stussy.
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All the best for your growth stussy.
stussy22
Member
Stony I agree with you that the bigger ones are better. And I didn't buy the tanks. I (my company) put a deposit down. So and If I'm ever done using them return them and the (company) gets their deposit back.
I agree with you that the 50 pounders are better I'm gonna hate changing it out mid grow. But hey I work 5 days a week and usually find my self at the HVAC parts house 2-3 of those days. Plus I don't pay for the fills or the tanks! You can't beat free.
Peace and love, peace and love.
yea man only thing that sux is dem 50lb tanks are heavy i have stairs to deal with and carrying them sux. i still got my 4 20lbers though i have no reason to sellem the more i can get at once the less i have to take the trip to gettem filled. i cant wait for u to get this shit goin i run 98 bubba in a 5gal dwc atm and am killem it nugz are so white and leaves are black drippin with resin. just veg the hell out of em they are slow as fuck but are well worth the wait.
my 98 bubba flowerin at 51days flush start at day 56.
my 98 bubba flowerin at 51days flush start at day 56.
stussy22
Member
Damn sounds like you need one of these bas bad boys.
Thanks for the tip on the bubba. Where you able to LST or scrog them? They go so tight and straight up it looks tough. I plan my first run to go with the OG then a run with Bubba. But most def will keep you posted.
B
Bob Smith
Stussy, I had the same issue as you're having with my digital ballasts screwing up my Sentinel CHHC-1 readings, and when I moved the WIRES further apart from each other everything became copasetic - not the actual ballasts, just the wires - not an electrician so I can't explain why that worked for me, but it did.
As far as CO2 tanks, I got 3 20lbers off of Craigslist for $125 - there's always restaurants upgrading their beverage systems who are selling tanks on there for cheap.
Have since gotten rid of them and installed a natural gas generator because taking weekly trips to the welding supply store got to be too much of a pain in the ass (installed a propane generator in the interim and filling up the propane even got to be too much of a pain - I'm pretty lazy).
Setup is looking great, can't wait to see some plants in there rocking.
As far as CO2 tanks, I got 3 20lbers off of Craigslist for $125 - there's always restaurants upgrading their beverage systems who are selling tanks on there for cheap.
Have since gotten rid of them and installed a natural gas generator because taking weekly trips to the welding supply store got to be too much of a pain in the ass (installed a propane generator in the interim and filling up the propane even got to be too much of a pain - I'm pretty lazy).
Setup is looking great, can't wait to see some plants in there rocking.
stussy22
Member
Now when you say separating the wires you are talking the ballast>>light wires? Those are going through the top hole in tent. I had the Tri meter and PPM meter running through the bottom. Still pissing me off. Ended up ordering Bluelabs EC meter and a milwaukee PH meter. Total cost was 150 for both.
Sounds like you got a deal on tanks too. What was the Sq Ft of your room where you were filling up that often? That seems pretty frequent. I know what you are talking about on the lazy factor too.
You and me both brother. Hopefully I get the word this week that the girls are ready.
i ended up getting lucky i got the tank and regulater from a friend at a discount price. i think i paid $100 dollars for both.
B
Bob Smith
I was running a Sun Hut XL (4.5 x 4.5 ft) as a "sealed" (I don't believe any tent can *really* be sealed, but that's another discussion) environment and going through 1 20lb. tank a week during flowering (Sentinel CHHC-1 controlling the regulator set @1500PPMs).
When I say "separate the wires", the tent I used had one slot for all wires to run through -I just ran the Sentinel sensor in through one of the ducting holes instead of running it with the wires from the lights and the problem was solved.
So yeah, it was the wires coming from the ballast to the actual bulb that seemed to be causing the trouble for me, but it seems like yours are already separated so in that case I'm fresh outta ideas
When I say "separate the wires", the tent I used had one slot for all wires to run through -I just ran the Sentinel sensor in through one of the ducting holes instead of running it with the wires from the lights and the problem was solved.
So yeah, it was the wires coming from the ballast to the actual bulb that seemed to be causing the trouble for me, but it seems like yours are already separated so in that case I'm fresh outta ideas
stussy22
Member
Thats a nice deal. What Co2 PPM controller do you have?
I was running a Sun Hut XL (4.5 x 4.5 ft) as a "sealed" (I don't believe any tent can *really* be sealed, but that's another discussion) environment and going through 1 20lb. tank a week during flowering (Sentinel CHHC-1 controlling the regulator set @1500PPMs).
When I say "separate the wires", the tent I used had one slot for all wires to run through -I just ran the Sentinel sensor in through one of the ducting holes instead of running it with the wires from the lights and the problem was solved.
So yeah, it was the wires coming from the ballast to the actual bulb that seemed to be causing the trouble for me, but it seems like yours are already separated so in that case I'm fresh outta ideas
HAHA the old tent sealed thread. I'm on your side of the fence that you can't seal a tent 100%. But you seal off the large obvious holes the best you could.
Damn a 20 LBer a week. Did you see a difference in growth that was justifiable to you to keep using Co2? Sounds to me like you don't any more.I'm not getting trouble with the Co2 remote sensor. It is the damn Tri meter for reading Water PH temp and EC. As well as my PPM meter. So I'm sitting on those now.
B
Bob Smith
Thats a nice deal. What Co2 PPM controller do you have?
HAHA the old tent sealed thread. I'm on your side of the fence that you can't seal a tent 100%. But you seal off the large obvious holes the best you could.
I'm not getting trouble with the Co2 remote sensor. It is the damn Tri meter for reading Water PH temp and EC. As well as my PPM meter. So I'm sitting on those now.
Lol, well it wasn't worth it to me to fill the tanks up, so I just went to a propane generator, but even once or twice a month for fillups was too much for my retardedly lazy ass, so now I have a hard-lined watercooled natural gas generator in there (drain to waste).
I haven't run an intake/exhaust room in close to a decade, so I can't really comment on noticeable differences in growth rates, but I can tell you that I bumped my CO2 up from 400 to 1000 two days ago and my clones have fricking exploded (new room still being setup so haven't flowered in it yet, and I couldn't turn the generator on for a couple of days because the drain pipe had frozen over).
As long as your other parameters are met (temp, RH, nutes, lighting) then I see no reason not to use CO2, save for the increased startup costs and the increased running costs (extra electric for dehuey and AC), but when you factor in that you're cutting at least a week or two off of every cycle, you recoup the "lost" AC and dehuey costs in efficiency "gains" from lights.
Everything is a tradeoff, but for me CO2 is always worth it (but it's not necessary/appropriate for all situations).
Also the deal with the fans is the CO2 is heavier than air so if you dont have a fan down low all you gas sits below the canopy. (or your remote sensor blast the tent with too much CO2 b/c it reads at canopy level
)hell yeah. the other thing about the 50 #ers is that I cant think of an excuse to be lugging them into my house!
Hey Bob, this is really the way to go. I calculated that with filling a 20# every week installing a generator that runs on natural gas or propane would pay itself off in 1.5 grows. Then no more trips to fill the tank.
Thanks Stussy. Looking good!
stussy22
Member
Hard pipe psh sounds like the only way to go. And you must not be that lazy if you got up off your ass to install it
Ya I'm going to be making a HUGE leap. Coming from a soil intake exhaust set up. To a sealed UC, Co2 enriched control almost every element.
Sounds to me like you need a Condensate drain line heater for your Co2 drain line. We use this application in walk in freezers where the temperature is always below due point. It is a flexible cord that wraps around your copper drain pipe. It is then wrapped in insulation tape to insure good heat transfer. This might be something to look into.
You bring up a good point with the increase of efficiency that Co2 does for electricity use. I never thought of it that way. And damn you guys are making it sound horrible to use Co2. Makes me want to stop before I ever start
Also the deal with the fans is the CO2 is heavier than air so if you dont have a fan down low all you gas sits below the canopy. (or your remote sensor blast the tent with too much CO2 b/c it reads at canopy level
Hey Bob, this is really the way to go. I calculated that with filling a 20# every week installing a generator that runs on natural gas or propane would pay itself off in 1.5 grows. Then no more trips to fill the tank.
Thanks Stussy. Looking good!
Natagoonaworrie thanks for stopping by man. I was thinking about that fan below canopy to throw the Co2 up. Maybe I have to move one of the four fans down. And If I ever do anything larger scale then this I will be sure to install hard piped natural gas generator like Bob
B
Bob Smith
Hard pipe psh sounds like the only way to go. And you must not be that lazy if you got up off your ass to install it
Ya I'm going to be making a HUGE leap. Coming from a soil intake exhaust set up. To a sealed UC, Co2 enriched control almost every element.
Sounds to me like you need a Condensate drain line heater for your Co2 drain line. We use this application in walk in freezers where the temperature is always below due point. It is a flexible cord that wraps around your copper drain pipe. It is then wrapped in insulation tape to insure good heat transfer. This might be something to look into.
You bring up a good point with the increase of efficiency that Co2 does for electricity use. I never thought of it that way. And damn you guys are making it sound horrible to use Co2. Makes me want to stop before I ever start
Natagoonaworrie thanks for stopping by man. I was thinking about that fan below canopy to throw the Co2 up. Maybe I have to move one of the four fans down. And If I ever do anything larger scale then this I will be sure to install hard piped natural gas generator like Bob
Use CO2, you can thank us later
- there's nothing like being able to control every variable of your grow - you're gonna wonder why you waited so long to go sealed I got lucky because my oven backs right up to the wall that my kitchen shares with my garage - only had to run it about 8" through the wall - easy peasie
Pipes won't ever freeze again - too long to explain, but it was just a one-time thing that'll never happen again.
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stussy22
Member
Use CO2, you can thank us later
I got lucky because my oven backs right up to the wall that my kitchen shares with my garage - only had to run it about 8" through the wall - easy peasie
Pipes won't ever freeze again - too long to explain, but it was just a one-time thing that'll never happen again.
HAHA I will for sure use the Co2. Just making it sound like a pain in the ass.
Psh 8" thats all it took. That's nothing. What Co2 Generator did you end up getting that uses natural gas. Sounds like you have your pipe situation squared away.
B
Bob Smith
I wanted to get a Hydrogen to support the cause, but Hydro Innovations stopped making a natural gas model so I was forced to get the "unbranded" version - a Marey Tankless Hot Water Heater.
Made a short video when I installed in a couple of months ago (have since changed a few things, but the general idea is the same):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWTX5CqEALw
Made a short video when I installed in a couple of months ago (have since changed a few things, but the general idea is the same):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWTX5CqEALw
stussy22
Member
Sweet videos I will be following you over there too.
Are you going to be taking showers in your garden?
Which model is that the 5L or the 10L. Also how long does that thing run before it reaches your set point ?
I'm taking notes on this and how I could mount one of these suckers inside of a 5x10 tent I have ideas for in the future.
thanks again for all the help.
B
Bob Smith
Lol, I actually need a shower ASAP - getting kinda ripe.
As far as the heater, it's actually the 16L - WAY bigger than I need - gets to the set point in like 30 seconds (if that) - it's adjustable though, so you can turn the flame up/down and speed up or slow down the water speed to suit your needs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Marey-16L-NG-Na...191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b4451697
IMO, the best thing about these units is if you're using a tent, because the unit doesn't need to be mounted inside the tent - all the CO2 comes out of the top flange, so piping the unit into a tent would be cake - there'd be some *slight* positive pressure, but nothing to get too concerned about (just guessing, have piped generators into tents but never using one of these).
My pleasure on the info; feeling lazy today (ergo online) but I think it's time to get off my ass and get to work.
P.S. - if you buy one before December 31st, you can take the tax credit for buying an energy efficient appliance - 30% of the cost of the unit and then the installation cost
As far as the heater, it's actually the 16L - WAY bigger than I need - gets to the set point in like 30 seconds (if that) - it's adjustable though, so you can turn the flame up/down and speed up or slow down the water speed to suit your needs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Marey-16L-NG-Na...191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b4451697
IMO, the best thing about these units is if you're using a tent, because the unit doesn't need to be mounted inside the tent - all the CO2 comes out of the top flange, so piping the unit into a tent would be cake - there'd be some *slight* positive pressure, but nothing to get too concerned about (just guessing, have piped generators into tents but never using one of these).
My pleasure on the info; feeling lazy today (ergo online) but I think it's time to get off my ass and get to work.
P.S. - if you buy one before December 31st, you can take the tax credit for buying an energy efficient appliance - 30% of the cost of the unit and then the installation cost
stussy22
Member
Lol, I actually need a shower ASAP - getting kinda ripe.
As far as the heater, it's actually the 16L - WAY bigger than I need - gets to the set point in like 30 seconds (if that) - it's adjustable though, so you can turn the flame up/down and speed up or slow down the water speed to suit your needs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Marey-16L-NG-Na...191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b4451697
IMO, the best thing about these units is if you're using a tent, because the unit doesn't need to be mounted inside the tent - all the CO2 comes out of the top flange, so piping the unit into a tent would be cake - there'd be some *slight* positive pressure, but nothing to get too concerned about (just guessing, have piped generators into tents but never using one of these).
My pleasure on the info; feeling lazy today (ergo online) but I think it's time to get off my ass and get to work.
P.S. - if you buy one before December 31st, you can take the tax credit for buying an energy efficient appliance - 30% of the cost of the unit and then the installation cost
Ya 16L seems kinda huge. I like the idea of mounting it outside and running the vent into the tent. Some more ideas to kick around. Planning already for a 5x10 with 2k lights. But I still need to get this one rolling.
Ya I hear ya it has been raining the past 6 days here and when it rains people seem to forget how to drive. Freeways are always a mess. Only good thing we get out of all this is there is a lot of white fluffy powder in the mountains.
