15,000 watts and a few questions. Suggestions?
- Thread starter Thaniel
- Start date
honestly after looking at a couple of good pis http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html i think that its just under ferting, but thats for me, its possible that you as well are under ferting, ive been running my EC at about 1.8, but my plants are 3ft tall or more and i am running co2 and about 75 w/sqr ft, so i think i should be upping the ferts to about 2-2.2ec, ill try it next wednsday whih is the day i fert every week.
heres a pic i took 2 days ago of one of the older fan leaves, its only happening on a few plants and only on the older larger fan leaves
in this pic here imo looks like a P def, but on other leaves it looks like an N def
just thaught that id mention that the new growth looks alright
in this pic here imo looks like a P def, but on other leaves it looks like an N def
just thaught that id mention that the new growth looks alright
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Yeah dude!
You are going from the STEROIDS of nutes to a QUASI-ORGANIC nute...
Bitches are probably lacking in PK.
Good luck, I wish you luck.
Thaniel
Member
Strengthen? Dilute? AhhhH!
To recap, I'm at day 24 of flower now. Strain is hindu skunk from oaksterdam. RH at 50 percent. Lights on temp at 76, night time 70. Res temp 68. This is a recirculating DWC. I'm using tap water with 3mL/gal cal mag plus 15-20mL/gal of Pure blend pro bloom for hydrogardens. EC at 1.7 at the moment. PH at 6.0. I fill the res and each day top off with 15-25 gallons of additional nutrient mix. Every 7-10 days I dump the system and start over. Maybe instead of adding additional nutrient mix each day I should simply be adding plain water.
Really looking for a solution. Maybe I'll completely ditch this PBP and cal mag and switch to a different nutrient. Recommendations?
From stitches guide, could this possibly be a potassium deficiency? I'm real frustrated that I can not figure this out.
Thanks,
Thaniel
To recap, I'm at day 24 of flower now. Strain is hindu skunk from oaksterdam. RH at 50 percent. Lights on temp at 76, night time 70. Res temp 68. This is a recirculating DWC. I'm using tap water with 3mL/gal cal mag plus 15-20mL/gal of Pure blend pro bloom for hydrogardens. EC at 1.7 at the moment. PH at 6.0. I fill the res and each day top off with 15-25 gallons of additional nutrient mix. Every 7-10 days I dump the system and start over. Maybe instead of adding additional nutrient mix each day I should simply be adding plain water.
Really looking for a solution. Maybe I'll completely ditch this PBP and cal mag and switch to a different nutrient. Recommendations?
From stitches guide, could this possibly be a potassium deficiency? I'm real frustrated that I can not figure this out.
Thanks,
Thaniel
Id stick with what works for you man, pure blend pro? go with GH like you were doing before, that's what id do. If it ain't broke don't fix it!!!
good luck man, were rootin for ya
hey thaniel, this is from an email that AN sent me a few months ago when i sent them in pics of my plants when they were looking sick.
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week’s feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week’s feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
In my Hydroton Ebb and Flow, I run:
30ml/gal Bloom
10-15ml/gal Compost Tea
I pH to 5.5-5.8
I add de-chlorinated water to top off the res between changes. I change every week or two, right now.
In Weeks 3-6 I will be running:
45ml/gal Blm
10-15ml/gal Compost Tea
I use the reccommended rates on the bottle as a starting point, and then work my way up/down from there.
This is my first run on Botanicaire in a while, so I do not have my numbers tweaked yet.
I was running on GH Flora, changed it up recently for (hopefully) better taste and most importantly less salts. The GH had a little too much salt for my liking with the increased evaporation in Hydroton vs r/w.
Generally I have noticed, that if it is a Cal-Mag def, then as soon as you add Cal-Mag, the problem gets better or at least stops getting worse.
Sorry I haven't played around with EC yet, I just use the pH and ppm features on my Hanna.
30ml/gal Bloom
10-15ml/gal Compost Tea
I pH to 5.5-5.8
I add de-chlorinated water to top off the res between changes. I change every week or two, right now.
In Weeks 3-6 I will be running:
45ml/gal Blm
10-15ml/gal Compost Tea
I use the reccommended rates on the bottle as a starting point, and then work my way up/down from there.
This is my first run on Botanicaire in a while, so I do not have my numbers tweaked yet.
I was running on GH Flora, changed it up recently for (hopefully) better taste and most importantly less salts. The GH had a little too much salt for my liking with the increased evaporation in Hydroton vs r/w.
Generally I have noticed, that if it is a Cal-Mag def, then as soon as you add Cal-Mag, the problem gets better or at least stops getting worse.
Sorry I haven't played around with EC yet, I just use the pH and ppm features on my Hanna.
joe fresh, that is for Salt based ferts. not organic like pure blend pro. and it's way too hot to feed for the most part. it's how they sell lots of nutrient. Every co. pretty much does it. they want you to use it up and buy more. just because I can feed my bubba kush 2800+ppm w no burning, doesn't mean I should. slow and steady wins the race almost every time. 
oh i agree, i dont fert anywhere near that,i posted that for the part with the spliting up your ppms per feed part, but like i said i dont know if it would even help in his situation.
im at 1.8 ec right now, but i dont know if i should up the dose for the next week, lower it, or keep it the same, what do you think?
notice the whole plant is healthy, but look at the lower fan leaf, i ripped it and took clode ups of it hopping for some answers
im at 1.8 ec right now, but i dont know if i should up the dose for the next week, lower it, or keep it the same, what do you think?
notice the whole plant is healthy, but look at the lower fan leaf, i ripped it and took clode ups of it hopping for some answers
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ur gonna get yellowing growth on the older leaves sometimes. as the plant grows its concentrating its energy more towards the tops than the bottoms, and the leaves that arent getting enough light to be of use get stripped of their nutrients to redispurse to the plant. use pureblend at about 30 ml per g with calmag and u hsouldnt have a problem except for the natural reaction of the plants,and if u did a prolonged flush that could be a reason why as the plant used the less useful leaves for nutrients. if u actually plan on smoking your buds id stay away from advanced, i can always taste when sum1 grew with advanced cause it tastes bland and harsh even with the best of flushes (is it better to have 8 ozs of shitty tasting bud of 4 ozs of deliciousness? depends on if u wanna smoke it and dont care what it tastes like). DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF COMPOST TEA IN YOUR RECIRCLATING SYSTEM UNLESS U PLAN ON CLEANING IT OUT COMPLETELY!! once the bacteria begins to go anaerobic and has depeleted the food source ur gonna start getting problems, do something like big tokes bio buckets if u wanna have natural bacteria in your water. adding compost tea to a recirculating rez is a good only if u flush a few times to make sure u got all the old water out. your lookn good brother,
guys how bout we turn this back into a discussion about this mans badass 15k grow, if yall wanna argue make a separate thread for the bickering and fighting.
guys how bout we turn this back into a discussion about this mans badass 15k grow, if yall wanna argue make a separate thread for the bickering and fighting.
