Cycloptics Greenbeams 315w owners thread

timmur · Jun 2, 2016

CrazyKappa said:
How long does it take for an aluminum reflector to break down? I have read different things, most though are saying every 1 or 2 years, but i have not found anyone that did a proper test, or posted evidence to back of their claims. If you really have to replace the hood every 1 or 2 years i think i will have to rethink a few things.

As much as i love the light, if the design was truly special, it would have a replaceable insert, and not rake you over the coals with a $375 hood replacements. One of the selling points is longevity of the bulb, well the hood replacement not only cancels that out, but makes it a worse deal. Yes you would have to replace the reflective material in other HID lighting setups, but you can buy hoods with removable inserts.

Even if they don't want to redesign, sell the insert, and let the user drill out the rivets to replace! But what really burned my ass, was the fact that i have posted these SAME questions multiple times to the manufacture, not ONCE did i get a reply. Its not like I'm kicking tires here, i already bought one, and i need 5 more. These are legitimate questions, even if they don't like the actual questions. Besides, ignoring your customers is no way to gain long term loyalty.

Thanks guys!

Just call and ask for Flip. He'll answer your question straight up. You will likely find that cleaning is all that is necessary to maintain reflectivity. I think EasyRider and Beta Test Team posted the stuff used to clean the reflectors. I'm too lazy to look it up.

Scrappy-doo · Jun 2, 2016

Here is the method of cleaning recommended by Beta Test Team

Beta Test Team said:
Scrappy and other users of GB, or any reflector with similar insert, here is our method for cleaning them. Once a month at least is a good way to go.

We haven't used this yet, but it has been run past the company's owner that produces the inserts for Cycloptics in terms of the cleaner (acid basic on citric acid) to make sure it's effective. This is pretty much as optimized as we can make it at this point.

--> Use only steam distilled, double-steam distilled, or deionized water for cleaning the inserts.

1. Turn OFF the power to the ballasts.

2. Put on clean lint-free cotton gloves.

3. Ensure the lamp is completely cool to the touch, then remove the lamp.

4. Use a “can of air” to blow off the reflector surface and lamp socket.

5. Cover lamp socket hole with blue painter’s tape to protect it from water and air.

6. Remove cotton gloves and put on a new pair of disposable surgical gloves (latex is fine); these are to protect hands from the Citranox solution.

7. In a bucket with hot water prepare a pH 3.25 solution of Citranox.

8. Use a clean lint-free cotton cloth soaked in Citranox solution to wipe down (clean) the reflector surface. Wring out the cloth so it's not dripping, and doesn't drip when lightly squeezed; it's a wipe not a douse. Be extra careful to not get water in the lamp socket.

9. Rinse hands in clean water to remove to remove Citranox solution from gloves.

10. Use a clean lint-free cotton cloth soaked in pure water to wipe down (rinse) the reflectors. Wring out the cloth so it's not dripping, and doesn't drip when lightly squeezed; it's a wipe not a douse. Be extra careful to not get water in the lamp socket. It’s important to rinse the Citranox off the metals quickly, do not let it dry.

10. Remove surgical gloves, dry hands, and put on a pair of clean lint-free cotton gloves.

11. Use a “can of air” to completely dry the reflector insert and the lamp socket.

12. Remove the painter's tape from the socket hole.

13. Screw the lamp back into the socket.

14. Turn ON the power to the ballasts.

Last step:
Neutralize the remaining Citranox solution that was used to clean the reflector with baking soda until pH 6.0 to 7.0 is achieved, then dispose of the solution, for example, down the toilet. If the solution is stored molds or bacteria are likely to use the citric acid as energy and grow in the bottle of stored solution.

CrazyKappa · Jun 2, 2016

Thanks for that info, ill order the supplies asap! Still i would imagine the insert would degrade at some point, it would be nice to know what point that is. Like how much reflective is lost over two years, given proper maintenance above. Even if not on the Greenbeam, have you guys seen any studies on how long an aluminum reflector, properly taken care of lasts?

I have been wanting a Li-COR quantum sensor for some time now, looks like i have another reason to get one now, just sucks cause it will take me two years to answer my own question. Either way my next light will be a DYI Cree 3590 setup, i am interested to see how it stacks up with the Greenbeam in a proper grow off, will be same wattage from the wall, but will cost me about $300-400 more then the Greenbeam. So it needs to outperform it by quite a bit, if my next 4 lights will be LED. Then again the only reason i started researching LED was, its directional lighting, i would not have to worry about expensive hood replacements.

Yeah i should have called, i just prefer email then dealing with people over the phone.

Thanks again! Here are my two orange diesel's under the Greanbeam, they are 10 days into flower in these pics. (12 now)

40AmpstoFreedom · Jun 2, 2016

CrazyKappa said:
How long does it take for an aluminum reflector to break down? I have read different things, most though are saying every 1 or 2 years, but i have not found anyone that did a proper test, or posted evidence to back of their claims. If you really have to replace the hood every 1 or 2 years i think i will have to rethink a few things.

As much as i love the light, if the design was truly special, it would have a replaceable insert, and not rake you over the coals with a $375 hood replacements. One of the selling points is longevity of the bulb, well the hood replacement not only cancels that out, but makes it a worse deal. Yes you would have to replace the reflective material in other HID lighting setups, but you can buy hoods with removable inserts.

Even if they don't want to redesign, sell the insert, and let the user drill out the rivets to replace! But what really burned my ass, was the fact that i have posted these SAME questions multiple times to the manufacture, not ONCE did i get a reply. Its not like I'm kicking tires here, i already bought one, and i need 5 more. These are legitimate questions, even if they don't like the actual questions. Besides, ignoring your customers is no way to gain long term loyalty.

Thanks guys!

It's a year gavita went into quite a bit of detail on here about that and the testing of it for their DE's. Probably why you got no answer.

CrazyKappa · Jun 2, 2016

Ill have to check that out, but that does not sound encouraging, and gavita does not use a vertical fixture. Much more of our bulbs light is reflected of the reflector. Do you know if gavita properly took care of the inserts? Like Scrappy posted? Also did gavita post under the name gavita? Just trying to figure out what to search for to find those posts.

If this is true, I am starting to think so long as the CXBs match the GB in yield/potency, CXBs might be the better option, they will last a solid 5 years, and its directional light. Running at 1050mA, i would get a very even spread using 9 CXBs, and it would draw about 340W. But only time will tell, i will do a proper grow off between the two, before i commit to the other 4 lights. (cant afford the other 4 right now anyways) Ordering all the parts within a week.

Thank you very much!

pug1010 · Jun 2, 2016

Just wondering for those with GreenBeams … where is the Cycloptics PARGrow ballast made and does it use the GreenTek or Philips ballast?

I think the All-Brights still offer a choice between the Philips Advance e-vision and the GreenTek G315 ballasts which look to be made in Germany.

CrazyKappa · Jun 3, 2016

pug10101 Either wait around here till someone can answer your question, or contact the manufacture. I'm too lazy to demount my ballast, and open it up. But i did look on the sticker, (only part i can really see the way its mounted) it neither says where it was manufactured, or what actual ballast they use.

pug1010 · Jun 3, 2016

Thanks CrazyKappa

Xrazor77 · Jun 15, 2016

I'd recommend the new Apogee MQ-500 par meter for $495 and can read LED and far right reds. The Li-cor are ridiculously expensive.

CrazyKappa · Jun 21, 2016

@Xrazor77 Apogee was one of the first companies i looked at, but then i did more research. There is a reason Li-cor is expensive, its the best without shelling out 10 grand or more! You get what you pay for, and i see this as a long term investment. I already found a used data logger for $100, now i just need to pick up the quantum sensor. All said i will spend $800 on my setup, yes i could save $300, but no the quality/performance will the not the same.

Ez Rider · Jul 4, 2016

Here's my most recent SourBubble run @ 23 days flower. I'm starting to get used to the reduced stretch of the chm, but still a few shorty's

Ez Rider · Jul 9, 2016

Day 28:

HHULKK · Jul 10, 2016

hey you guys! I just wanted to say I've learned so much from this thread and have decided to run these greenbeams in my upcoming build. I just wanted to get a couple opinions..
I've felt I have learned so much about spectrum and all this light tech and unfortunately cannot go a full lit room as it seems to be the ideal way to run these. I'll however be using up all the room but not everything is going to be canopy. I need aisles and such and I feel ill be losing work efficiency by not giving myself the work space between rows of trays. I'll be running perpetual cycles so this room will be a flower only room. My questions are:
considering 4x16 rows which will be plant canopy, will 10 greenbeams be sufficient or should more(like 12) be run over the row? I'll be running the agro bulbs mostly due to the higher output. also, those running these in AC cooled rooms, would 1000 btu be a reasonably overshot estimate per fixture? I've read that they only output 700 btu but we have hot 100+ degree days and I don't wanna undershoot it and would like the added cushion. thank you for all the input anyone can give.

HHULKK · Jul 10, 2016

nice looking plants there EZ, it's a very convincing argument to upgrade to cmh! quality looks fantastic and man the non-existent stretch. I work with lower ceilings so I'll be greatly benefitting from that. thanks for sharing!!

Ez Rider · Jul 10, 2016

HHULKK said:
hey you guys! I just wanted to say I've learned so much from this thread and have decided to run these greenbeams in my upcoming build. I just wanted to get a couple opinions..
I've felt I have learned so much about spectrum and all this light tech and unfortunately cannot go a full lit room as it seems to be the ideal way to run these. I'll however be using up all the room but not everything is going to be canopy. I need aisles and such and I feel ill be losing work efficiency by not giving myself the work space between rows of trays. I'll be running perpetual cycles so this room will be a flower only room. My questions are:
considering 4x16 rows which will be plant canopy, will 10 greenbeams be sufficient or should more(like 12) be run over the row? I'll be running the agro bulbs mostly due to the higher output. also, those running these in AC cooled rooms, would 1000 btu be a reasonably overshot estimate per fixture? I've read that they only output 700 btu but we have hot 100+ degree days and I don't wanna undershoot it and would like the added cushion. thank you for all the input anyone can give.

Figure 3'x3' coverage per lamp. You could probably do a 10'x10' room with 9 lamps. 4' is too wide for a single row IMO. Figure ~800btuh/lamp. You WILL need strong ventilation all the time, and ac for those hotter days.

HHULKK said:
nice looking plants there EZ, it's a very convincing argument to upgrade to cmh! quality looks fantastic and man the non-existent stretch. I work with lower ceilings so I'll be greatly benefitting from that. thanks for sharing!!

They stretched quite a bit more on this run vs last run, but still less vs hps.

Ez Rider · Jul 27, 2016

Day 43

srich250 · Aug 1, 2016

Rock n Roll EZ rider!!!!!!
I can't wait to do my 2nd run with them. I only have two 315's with the 3000K bulb. I was super impressed with the one last grow. Blew my
Mind how much stickier and healthier the same cloned girls were under it compared to 600 HPS and 1000w DE's. I hope i can repeat it this time with two in a 4x6 tray. Just switched to 12/12 yesterday

-!!!!

Your ladies look better than mine have ever looked I'm pretty sure !!!!! What is your basic setup? Or did I miss it earlier in the thread?
Thx man!! Beautiful dude !!!!!!??

srich250 · Aug 4, 2016

Any more pics and updates. Hope it's still going well for you man!!!

timmur · Aug 4, 2016

Ez Rider said:
Day 43
View Image

Lookin good in there EZ! :tiphat:

GreenRonin · Aug 8, 2016

Hey guys!
I bought a greenbeams reflector because of this thread and the pioneers who posted their results here. But I'm running into issues I never had before...
I'm getting grow tip discoloration ( new grow is yellow at the top) when I try to move rooted clones from flurescent light to a single GB reflector 24 inches above the clones.
Then I tried 40 inches above and things got better, some dark green leaves at the growing top...
But I fell I need to move the GB farther away, maybe 48 inches above the clones.
I never put a reflector so far away from the plant... Is this the normal usage of Greenbeams? that far away?
Thanks!

Cycloptics Greenbeams 315w owners thread

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