How to get max yield from trees?
- Thread starter icdog
- Start date
AlexTrebek
Member
I'll take Know Your Strain for 1200 icdog!
This tek works FANTASTICALLY... or so I've heard.
The best way to get a good yield out of a tree... is to cut it up into a few hundred clones and reposition the plant around a light. lol...
long veg, bigass pot ,good genetics, great fertilizing.
bro its still strain dependent, if your growing big sativa's of course you gong to have to top them, veg shorter times, idica's , more veg, less topping, your asking questions in general . be specific, read threads on growing tree's and see what works for others
N
Nondual
I've heard that the higher the plant count the better the yield if the canopy still covers the same area.
ok, but he is talking about tree's,
AlexTrebek
Member
[BS MATH ON]
Correct! (as long as root parameters are a constant?)
[BS MATH OFF]
icdog your yield will be a mirror image of the amount of knowledge you acquire on the vast universe of growing (not just cannabis!).
[BS MATH ON]
So let's say you subscribe to 4 grows and post twice a day in all four of them. 2 posts x 4 threads = 8... so your yield will multiply by 8 with minimal effort.
[BS MATH OFF]
I doubt you'll get any real tips from this thread that you wouldn't have found hitting search bar, try exploring and asking more specific questions, along the lines : "How far into budding should I start using PK13/14?". It's hard to help someone cheat on the test when we don't know the material ourselves(room size, grow style, strain).
Good luck and all the growing power to you, Grow on!
tommy_greens
Member
Maybe i can have a go at it.
The "west coast masters" (google it) have recently published a book detailing expert growing techniques used in Oregon by medical growers. They show advanced training techniques using horizontal lights and low plant count.
Medical growers here in BC employ many tree techniques, although very different from the "Masters" of Oregon. For a basic look at good old veg 8 weeks, flower 8 weeks w/ vertical lights and 15-25 gal pots method, check out Urban Grower 40 on Youtube. Urban Grower has many really good videos shot in the beautiful Fraser Valley (Van City and surrounding area).
Medical Growers in my circle use similar methods to Urban Growers friends. More high yield techniques are used than in the videos though. Specifically pruning and training techniques are used extensively to keep the center of the plant open and removing a large amount of weak growth and areas of the plant that don't receive direct light from the vertical lamps. Typically growers use rows of lights 4 feet apart with rows of plants in between. The center plants have 4 lights around each plant while the ones along the walls have two lights on each. The orientation depends largely on how many plants your license allows for or how many lights you have space for (and power for). Growers with few plants but lots of room use a checker board set up where white would be plants and black would be vertical lights or vice versa. In this style set up plants get light from a minimum of 3 1k HPS in the flower rooms and up to half the plants receive direct light from 4 sides. Smart growers use coco because of the fast and vigorous veg and because plants in large pots should not stay wet for long when roots are forming(coco dries quicker). This system results is enormous plants, in one friends set up reaching 8 feet in 25 gallon pots. The grower could not touch the top of them. Yield is between 0.7 and 2 lbs per plant depending largely on the ratio of plants:lights:space:growers ability.
Any questions?
p.s. I think Heath Robison knows a thing or two about growing trees. Consider checking out his work as well.
icdog
Member
Exactly what I'm looking for tommy thank you very much. I couldn't pm you for some reason but I would like to hear more of the high yield techniques specific to the tree itself that aren't in the vids. Setting up the room, lights, spacing, ac, strain, etc. is optimal.
I checked out that vid and have watched quite a few of his. My setup is similar but with lights on all sides of plant.
I can't see why topping a plant in a vertical setup would increase yield. A single cola wouldn't matter with all the secondary colas receiving light as well with the light vertical.
But opening the plant up makes allot of sense.
I checked out that vid and have watched quite a few of his. My setup is similar but with lights on all sides of plant.
I can't see why topping a plant in a vertical setup would increase yield. A single cola wouldn't matter with all the secondary colas receiving light as well with the light vertical.
But opening the plant up makes allot of sense.
VEG
veg is the the most important aspect of trees, you need strong, healthy, plants with minimum stretching in veg. your stems should be thick and strong or they arent going to put on weight, and if they are falling all over the place the plant gets stressed out and yeilds drop
knowing your strain is also super important, I've flipped a casey jones at 25in that ended up hitting the ceiling, and I used to flip my kush at 40in and they would end up 4ft
clean out the insides of your girls, big plants dont have the energy to deal with larf like small plants do, your trying to squeeze 2lbs out of one rootball so dont make it harder with larf
trees need CAL, and nutes need to be dialed in different from small plants, takes a lot of work to transport nutes to a monster tree
veg is the the most important aspect of trees, you need strong, healthy, plants with minimum stretching in veg. your stems should be thick and strong or they arent going to put on weight, and if they are falling all over the place the plant gets stressed out and yeilds drop
knowing your strain is also super important, I've flipped a casey jones at 25in that ended up hitting the ceiling, and I used to flip my kush at 40in and they would end up 4ft
clean out the insides of your girls, big plants dont have the energy to deal with larf like small plants do, your trying to squeeze 2lbs out of one rootball so dont make it harder with larf
trees need CAL, and nutes need to be dialed in different from small plants, takes a lot of work to transport nutes to a monster tree
"crappy immature mj buds ;
term coined by us locals here in Southern California for shitty immature herb"
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=larf
term coined by us locals here in Southern California for shitty immature herb"
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=larf
tommy_greens
Member
I agree. Topping your plant will not give you the ideal shape for your plant when using vertical lighting. You want the christmass tree shape unless you implement some serious training. If you look at the preview for the west coast growers book on their website you will find the "North, South, East, West" training diagrams. Their training is advanced an precise. Their system is specific to horizontal lights but it can be adopted to vertical lights with some imagination and innovation.
D
DHF
Hey icdog.....You`ve pretty much got all yas need from the above posts by Dizzle and Tommy Greens , so as far the the biggest factor that was touched on IME was "know your strain/hybrid" and where they`ll stop stretchin and begin swellage so yas can use all available sq ftg for plant placement and sideways canopy management till harvey.......
I ran krusty buckets for over 8 yrs and my plants demanded 5 x 5 area for each one and pulled 2 1/2 lbs per every run , and it`s as much environmental management as it is how much light yas blast at their ass.....
What was briefly explained about larf/flarf is what`s always been called "sucker branches" just like on tomato plants as in they`re not part of each true lateral branch/limb that grow out of big plants and needta go to keep from stealing vital plant energy on growin their scraggly ass while providing more lumen penetration and airflow.....win win........
The Xmas tree shape comment by Tommy is best described by a 50/50 sat/ind hybrid and are best suited for big plants around bare bulbs as far as higher yields IME.......
What some folks may not know.....Pot plants grow differently with vertical bare bulbs hangin than with horizontal air cooled hoods in that the more indica dominant plants grow wide and short toward the bulbs with little to no stretch at all after the flip , and the preferred Hybrids grow up as well as out and need cleaned out inside for proper airflow to prevent PM and other nasties during late flower as said above............
Krusty taught me ta hang chickenwire on the ceilings to support all the heavy lateral limbs once everything was pruned , shaped and cleaned out.....
I never topped a plant in my life runnin big plants cuz I ran mine and knew where they were gonna finish after stretch cuz it stunts the fuck out of em when shit gets lopped off and they`re tryin ta be all they can be till hormones take over and they stop building roots or growin foliage till end of cycle.......so....
The best lighting setup for big plants I ever found was when Krusty showed me where each plant can get blasted by 3 bare bulbs hangin at all times in a simple 10 x 10 room with 5 lights in an "X" pattern and 4 plants in a "Diamond" pattern.......
Pulled 10 lb rooms regular for lotta yrs with a bagseed mex skunk hybrid from the mid 70`s that I knew inside and out......all about the dialage of everything that`s been laid out for yas in these posts.....
Don`t forget limb support.....keeps the girls from stressin out and snappin under their own weight when they drink so much and get heavy in late flower........
Good luck IC.....DHF.....
.....
I ran krusty buckets for over 8 yrs and my plants demanded 5 x 5 area for each one and pulled 2 1/2 lbs per every run , and it`s as much environmental management as it is how much light yas blast at their ass.....
What was briefly explained about larf/flarf is what`s always been called "sucker branches" just like on tomato plants as in they`re not part of each true lateral branch/limb that grow out of big plants and needta go to keep from stealing vital plant energy on growin their scraggly ass while providing more lumen penetration and airflow.....win win........
The Xmas tree shape comment by Tommy is best described by a 50/50 sat/ind hybrid and are best suited for big plants around bare bulbs as far as higher yields IME.......
What some folks may not know.....Pot plants grow differently with vertical bare bulbs hangin than with horizontal air cooled hoods in that the more indica dominant plants grow wide and short toward the bulbs with little to no stretch at all after the flip , and the preferred Hybrids grow up as well as out and need cleaned out inside for proper airflow to prevent PM and other nasties during late flower as said above............
Krusty taught me ta hang chickenwire on the ceilings to support all the heavy lateral limbs once everything was pruned , shaped and cleaned out.....
I never topped a plant in my life runnin big plants cuz I ran mine and knew where they were gonna finish after stretch cuz it stunts the fuck out of em when shit gets lopped off and they`re tryin ta be all they can be till hormones take over and they stop building roots or growin foliage till end of cycle.......so....
The best lighting setup for big plants I ever found was when Krusty showed me where each plant can get blasted by 3 bare bulbs hangin at all times in a simple 10 x 10 room with 5 lights in an "X" pattern and 4 plants in a "Diamond" pattern.......
Pulled 10 lb rooms regular for lotta yrs with a bagseed mex skunk hybrid from the mid 70`s that I knew inside and out......all about the dialage of everything that`s been laid out for yas in these posts.....
Don`t forget limb support.....keeps the girls from stressin out and snappin under their own weight when they drink so much and get heavy in late flower........
Good luck IC.....DHF.....
.....
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