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Old 01-20-2018, 03:13 PM #3681
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Originally Posted by EasyGoing View Post
5-10ml per gallon? I use .4 tsp per gallon or 2ml per gallon. I think Avenger recommended those rates....... Maybe I will bump it up and see what happens.

what is the concentration of potassium silicate?

there are various bottled dilutions, so i find such recommendation incomplete.

but, no matter what color the bottle is that you dose from, the concentration in the working solution should not go above ~120ppm SiO2. Anything above that and you will get polymerization of the silica and thus reduced efficacy.

Last edited by Avenger; 01-20-2018 at 03:29 PM..
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Old 01-20-2018, 04:13 PM #3682
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5-10ml per gallon? I use .4 tsp per gallon or 2ml per gallon. I think Avenger recommended those rates....... Maybe I will bump it up and see what happens.

That level is to deal with the heat issue (which it looks like he already fixed) and to PUSH out the Na and raise the K levels quickly.

But you can easily, IMO, get away with 5ml for every G or say 1-2 ml / L regularly in your feedings, especially as you move through flowering, if you aren't hitting with other K sources, since his K was low, the 5-10ml is cool, that rate won't cause polymerization IME. Avenger is right on ppm and also correct my recommendation was incomplete in necessary details...

I think most Pot Sili jugs have recommendations for 1-2.5 ml / gallon...

It's interesting how a company doing business will actually give directions in both Imperial & Metric on the fertilizer.

I jump b/w them all the time but if an actually product I was selling, would personally choose one or the other, I digress...

I think most in here can tell by now, GrowingCrazy don't need any help but is here to help others but is just a good and decent farmer who is far too humble to come across any other way, Kudos Mitten !!
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Old 01-20-2018, 05:28 PM #3683
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Test GH.... Small but gets the job done

If you then cover the in ground rows with fabric / plastic etc (Thanks Elliott C) you get another zone or two to the South, making me more like an 8 than a 5b - brrrrr, without any added heat... the colder it gets, the better it works...i.e -15 outside, positive inside and teens or 20's under fabric, now if 20-25 degrees outside inside is 30-35 and under fabric 35-40... this is WOUT any sun effects

I'm planting figs permanently in there this year after this winters testing - two years ago it got to - 24 F outside, fellas, that's fkin cold if you've never felt it, wind chill was - 40's

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Old 01-20-2018, 06:49 PM #3684
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For the record, I was talking AgSil16. I also gave my old dosage on accident. Avenger at the time recommended .7g per gallon for the record. Thanks for those corrections guys.
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Old 01-20-2018, 06:57 PM #3685
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For the record, I was talking AgSil16. I also gave my old dosage, and Avenger at the time recommended .7g per gallon for the record. Thanks for those corrections guys.
when I said company, I was referring to whomever mfg the liquid product I use and surprised a large Corp would have both imperial and metric on their bottle, find it funny in a way... nothing toward you in case it was taken that way

anyhow, I was up in VT at a friends grow helping him out.... I'm sure some here have seen an extra leaflet growing out of the petiole up and above the other layer of leaflets, if that makes sense...

I just saw one that has a single calyx on the end of the leaflet that is growing "above" the rest... It's the first sign of F anywhere on the plant... I've seen flowers grow from the petiole of leaves (fairly infrequent though) but never a calyx on the end of a pure and healthy leaflet from there, much less the first sign on the plant, anywhere of it being Fem....

Fem? Hermie? Mutant?

to me, breeding stock..... who knows

its by far, the healthiest and most robust of any other plants, by far one month from seed...
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Old 01-20-2018, 07:03 PM #3686
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I like to use frost cloths to extend the seasons as well, somewhat surprised at the amount of light that passes through a white fabric like that.
We had a propane tank installed this year and the guy installing it was telling me stories about how they overheat and pop off in the full sun. So I wrappped it in frost cloth, two layers, and the tank still gets pretty hot in my opinion for being wrapped in fairly thick white cloth.
Anyway, interesting about the figs. Had a neighbor start a bunch of fig tree/ bushes, at least fifty of them in two greenhouses in a 6b location in Missouri. One of the houses is heated from used cooking oil and one is geothermal heated. He started them in about 2008, when cooking oil was easier to get.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:55 PM #3687
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so ...going back to page #one ... the idea is to get your soil balanced 1st , & then feed from that point on ?
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:07 PM #3688
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so ...going back to page #one ... the idea is to get your soil balanced 1st , & then feed from that point on ?
Try and read thru these - probably an hour or two depending on how much thought while reading you want to do...IMO I think it will help you better understand what's the Macro view of what this thread is about.

https://soils.wisc.edu/facstaff/bara...6/ioncharg.htm


https://www.spectrumanalytic.com/sup...ercent_sat.htm


https://extension.oregonstate.edu/so...ion_ec1478.pdf

what you're saying above is correct but just the tip of the iceberg; your soil is continually in flux so knowing the "what and why" will help you out greatly I think

If the links have issues just remove the (s) from https in address bar
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:17 PM #3689
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Originally Posted by ~star~crash~ View Post
so ...going back to page #one ... the idea is to get your soil balanced 1st , & then feed from that point on ?
You need to start with high Ca and with P>K. High Ca on a light mix is around 80%. On a heavy mix, 85% Ca. Mg@10% and K @ 4% or so.

From there you push K slowly during veg. During veg prior to flowering ideally you would pushed your K up to 7 or 8%. 10 days or so prior to flowering I would push Ca back up again meaning K would fall as the numbers have to equal 100% correct?

Some guys are actually hitting with foliar Ca and seeing some amazing results and at the same time, small applications of gypsum during veg. Once into flower one should starting to push up K again. Constant applications of more Ca on the soil during flowering along with some early Mg at flip to shed some of that N, all the while watching P carefully, maybe even supplementing more.

I like to use sulpomag as a Mg source. The nice thing about this source is that it is sulfate of potassium and magnesium all bound together by nature. Very different that magnesium sulfate, which is a terrible molecule, holds water and inflates horribly when wet. Causing lots of problems in water retention.

That sounds much more simple that it is.

In Hawaii sugar cane farms in Maui they had a problem of sugar cane not growing in certain areas. The issue was Mg at more than 30%. Imagine, Mg can go toxic! I have seen reports from grows at 28 and 30%! And folks just keep dumping on more Calmag!
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:50 PM #3690
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thx slo
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