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Old 12-30-2017, 07:54 PM #3571
growingcrazy
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Just for reference... For me indoors on a soil with a CEC of 30 (very similar to easygoings results just posted) I like to get a good saturation (still on the drier side,just everything moistened) once per week and then just a very small amount daily to keep the top of the soil moist. This is in a 15 gallon smart pot. ~16 oz per day and .75-1 gal for a heavier irrigation. Drier soil with more frequent irrigation's is best for root health.

Also don't forget to put a couple inch layer of lava rock or some type of drainage in the bottom of the pots.

I like an irrigation system with 2 feed lines, one with just ph'd water and another with open tubes for fertigation. For smaller gardens a pump and watering wand works well for the fertigation on the heavier watering days too...
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:55 PM #3572
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Originally Posted by slownickel View Post
The nice thing about having a medium that dries out quickly is that you can set up an automatic watering system. I realize for many folks that what I recommend is not geared towards everyone. In your case, maybe a some heavier soil to fit with your calendar. Realize that while waiting for heavier mixes to dry out, often the surface roots get sacrificed. This means light irrigations that will allow the surface to remain with enough humidity yet not have that water accumulate below.
We use pressure compensating drip lines along beds with a fair amount of clay in the soil.

To address the issues SN's pointing to here, we use overhead watering between soaking the beds. With the right timing you keep the upper soil moist enough while allowing the subsoil time to dry out.
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:51 PM #3573
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Originally Posted by mapinguari View Post
We use pressure compensating drip lines along beds with a fair amount of clay in the soil.

To address the issues SN's pointing to here, we use overhead watering between soaking the beds. With the right timing you keep the upper soil moist enough while allowing the subsoil time to dry out.
Mapi,

Most folks are scared to death of using a microsprinkler under plants, much less indoors or a green house.

Which microsprinklers are you using? Do you know their throw distance and flow rates per hour?

Do you have to use more resistant varieties using microsprinklers?
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:49 PM #3574
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Mapi,

Most folks are scared to death of using a microsprinkler under plants, much less indoors or a green house.

Which microsprinklers are you using? Do you know their throw distance and flow rates per hour?

Do you have to use more resistant varieties using microsprinklers?
Actually what we do it use ordinary impact sprinklers raised up on 10 foot t posts.

The average humidity here in the summer is like 20%. The plants really love the humidity boost, and putting water on the foliage seems beneficial as long as you don't keep it up past flower set.

After stacking starts, I supplement with hand watering instead of overhead.

Used to worry too, but a dude who's been growing around us for more than 30 years convinced us it's OK.

Not one single speck of PM in the garden this year (except on some red clover). Small amount of botrytis and incipient budrot on a few phenos, nothing to worry about.
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:57 PM #3575
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The nice thing about having a medium that dries out quickly is that you can set up an automatic watering system. I realize for many folks that what I recommend is not geared towards everyone.
The bad thing about having a medium that dries out quickly is that you have to set up an automatic watering system. lol

Once you start down that road it becomes a slippery slope to "hydro" and all that entails. One of the reasons I've worked so hard to integrate your paradigm into my garden is because it's practical implementation seems to exclude industrial applications.
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:44 PM #3576
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The bad thing about having a medium that dries out quickly is that you have to set up an automatic watering system. lol

Once you start down that road it becomes a slippery slope to "hydro" and all that entails. One of the reasons I've worked so hard to integrate your paradigm into my garden is because it's practical implementation seems to exclude industrial applications.
My posts tend to be for the larger grower trying to go forward. I don't mean to exclude the small grower, just that I don't think that way.

The thought process that I have delt with all my life is to make things better and easier IN SCALE.

A large portion of what I have written here is applicable to the small grower, not all of it....

How have things been working out for you PRUNE?
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:14 AM #3577
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I would like to wish everyone a great New Year. Lot's of change coming this season, some for the better and a lot for the worse.... I wish you all the best.
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Old 01-02-2018, 05:49 PM #3578
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Who knows about #hodlgang?

https://youtu.be/JZYZoQQ6LJQ

Bitcoin is paying for my gypsum this year.

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The dollar is a thing of the past....... Don't wait for the crash. Double down like animal style BIOTCH!!!!! CyptoGardens is my new farm name, lol. Did I mention I am working with a coin company for the cannabis industry? No more waiting for payments from dispensaries. Once the tests come in and the buds are clean, a deposit strait into your Ether account or other coin. Soon come!

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Old 01-03-2018, 11:32 AM #3579
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Not buying this crap man its AI technology. Good way to go about regulations.... but...as paper currency wansnt our creation neither crypto coins are. Its running on human energy...let that sink in. everybody? seems excited, how long? ) until they realize its just another trap.
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Old 01-03-2018, 01:43 PM #3580
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Paradox/Blockchain,

It is recommended to use two kinds of seaweed, one is Ecklonia which is an amazing source of auxins. Auxins applied at specific times multiplies roots. The second is an ascophyllum nodosum, which is great source of cytokinin. Cytonkinin from seaweed is a growth hormone.
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