Enzyme Test

That would be a whole different kind of test.
Not any more valid, though.

OK 7 weeks in and I give up.
Things look exactly the same.
The good news is all of the roots are still white.
The bad news is that all of the roots are still there.
So the enzymes partially did their job.
At least the cheapo pond enzyme did the same as the $$$ enzymes.

3dDream said:

I don't know anything about enzymes. Can bacteria do the same thing?

Click to expand...

Bacteria (and fungus) produce enzymes for this very purpose.

That's what these manufactures lead you to believe. That they have skipped the "middle men" and have bottled the source.

Maybe get ahold of a plant with pythium and cut its roots and run the test again.

Although your results have me looking at Sipco a bit differently these days.

The guys at the pond enzyme place told me that not only is the Sipco product Hygrozyme not a true enzyme, but they don't even make it themselves.

Welcome back ,
I m running pond enzymes 1 ml per 10 gallons ,the gals are happy,if it was toxic they woulda died buy now .Cant say there doing any good but there definitely not hurtin anything .

i picked up a powdered pond zyme with barley, the barley is supposed to do something.
i did a simple test with some roots, i determined its a waste of time.
i just sprinkle some in the worm composter

So how goes the experiments?

OldMan&theWeed said:

Perhaps a more valid experiment would use three buckets left over from the end of a grow cycle. The plants are harvested. The three stalks cut off at the level of the soil or coco. The medium contains the roots left intact as they were at the end of the grow.

Three different solutions are now prepared. The first one is made with a half gallon of water and hydro store enzyme. The second is a half a gallon of water and pond enzyme. The third is just half a gallon of water.

Each flower pot gets its own treatment and they are labeled accordingly.

The roots are left to rot for a month.

After a month the medium is examined for evidence of root decomposition.

Click to expand...

How about trying it at the beginning of your next grow cycle and have your 3 experiment plants off to the side of your main grow but still get them some good lighting if possible. Make sure they are all healthy as clones then as you flip them for flowering in the first couple of days just break all the rules on them. Raise the water temps or do anything else you know that will cause rot root(RR). Once you start seeing signs of RR start adding the enzymes. I think once roots die no enzyme out there is going to breakdown dead slimy roots in a 8 to 10 week grow cycle, especially if it's a dwc or hydroton or rockwool grow. Which is the type of grow I've done the most.
Wrapping up my first coco right now which is why I am interested in this stuff. Going to try to make a nice simple nutrient program for my next round but don't want to buy pricey additives if they don't really make a difference. Like 8 or 9 years ago these products were not around and now they are everywhere. Sometimes it seem like these products are gimmicks and marketing.
If this is a coco or soil grow then I see the enzymes being able to do their job a little easier. I mean when you grow in soil or coco its kinda "alive" correct? The soil is actually interacting with the nutrients and the roots of the plant. So when roots start to die then the enzymes are able to take action and clean up the roots or hopefully prevent it all together (insurance like one said early). In an organic grow would worms play the role of enzymes to breakdown and process dead plant material and other dead bugs in soil?

OldMan&theWeed said:

Perhaps a more valid experiment would use three buckets left over from the end of a grow cycle. The plants are harvested. The three stalks cut off at the level of the soil or coco. The medium contains the roots left intact as they were at the end of the grow.

Three different solutions are now prepared. The first one is made with a half gallon of water and hydro store enzyme. The second is a half a gallon of water and pond enzyme. The third is just half a gallon of water.

Each flower pot gets its own treatment and they are labeled accordingly.

The roots are left to rot for a month.

After a month the medium is examined for evidence of root decomposition.

Click to expand...

Once again the old man makes perfect logical sense.

I hope when I am old, I too will think with such clarity and logic.

Three cheers for the old man!!!

I think the issue here was the lack of oxygen to the roots in solution--when enzymes are used in a medium, there is oxygen available to the enzymes and roots.

Gelado` said:

I think the issue here was the lack of oxygen to the roots in solution--when enzymes are used in a medium, there is oxygen available to the enzymes and roots.

Click to expand...

I totally agree. I guess this thread is old now though.

Came across this pond cleaner called 'ultraclear sst', looks like it has a few of the Bacillus bacteria including Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. And that is what is in hydroguard.

http://www.thepondoutlet.com/home/t...._super_strength_treatment_by_ultraclear.html


Anyone every tried this product?

Greenjag said:

:smile: Have you ever tried cleaning 30 or 40 buckets worth of clay pebbles by hand? There's a lot of people desperate to find some way of getting rid of this tedious task. Myself, I soak the buckets for 3 days in a high dosage solution of CannaZym after removing the main root mass. It's not a magic fix but I haven't had a problem... yet!

Click to expand...

use a pressure washer