Across International

[IlDeuceIV]

Can you provide a link to the ikea lights you purchased audio hi?

Here is the set that is just white
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/

Here is the RGB version
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192365/

 

[teemu shalanie]

I read the whole thread , lots of good info , the tips are repeated over n over , I got 2 granite tiles cut at 11 by 11 for my new 06/2014 AI 0.9 cu Ft vac oven , temps are way more stable within 4degrees , as opposed to 10-15+, I gunno start a run in next day or so , going to go for a shatter this time try to keep temps around 95-100 vac at 29.5 .

Questions for you guys who already done multiple runs,. I have heard 2 different thing at least , some guys run pump all the time or a lot of the time , which has got to get the vac over 29.5hg, I would think ?,

2. it seems to me that shatter is done in around 8 ish hrs , while honeycomb could take days?, if this is thet case why we see all these guys on instagram posting nice slabs that have been purged at 90 or lower for 96 or more hours ?..... talk to me guys let me know where all u stand , and how u are enjoying your ovens ,


TS

 

[~Alaska~]

So, just upgraded my AI from two shelves to 5. Was thinking.....the biggest problem with the AI I can see is the two side heat issue.

Has anyone opened their ovens up and added additional heaters to the other sides/top/back and wired into the current control system. Seems like it could be doable for about $225 in parts for another pair of heating elements and another relay...

Also, if anyone has a link to a digital copy of the users manual, I have moved and misplaced mine, and was going to tweak some settings a bit and auto tune to see if I can balance these shevles at all.

Thanks!

A

 

[Gray Wolf]

So, just upgraded my AI from two shelves to 5. Was thinking.....the biggest problem with the AI I can see is the two side heat issue.

Has anyone opened their ovens up and added additional heaters to the other sides/top/back and wired into the current control system. Seems like it could be doable for about $225 in parts for another pair of heating elements and another relay...

Also, if anyone has a link to a digital copy of the users manual, I have moved and misplaced mine, and was going to tweak some settings a bit and auto tune to see if I can balance these shevles at all.

Thanks!

A

Not the AI, but did it to a Napco.

Easy upgrade, but still leaving you with mostly radiant heat transfer unless you have solid shelves fixed tightly to the heated walls for conduction transfer, or are using heat sink shelves to capture and retain the radiant heat.

More shelves can also block radiant transfer to the existing shelves.

What are your new shelves made of?

 

[Gray Wolf]

I read the whole thread , lots of good info , the tips are repeated over n over , I got 2 granite tiles cut at 11 by 11 for my new 06/2014 AI 0.9 cu Ft vac oven , temps are way more stable within 4degrees , as opposed to 10-15+, I gunno start a run in next day or so , going to go for a shatter this time try to keep temps around 95-100 vac at 29.5 .

Questions for you guys who already done multiple runs,. I have heard 2 different thing at least , some guys run pump all the time or a lot of the time , which has got to get the vac over 29.5hg, I would think ?,

2. it seems to me that shatter is done in around 8 ish hrs , while honeycomb could take days?, if this is thet case why we see all these guys on instagram posting nice slabs that have been purged at 90 or lower for 96 or more hours ?..... talk to me guys let me know where all u stand , and how u are enjoying your ovens ,


TS

Most pumps currently being used, will pull the oven below -29.5" Hg, so we either bleed in a little air or N2 at the back fill valve to control pressure and act as a gas ballast.

No fixed time. I like <115F at -29.5" Hg until the solvent bubbles cease for shatter.

Purge in a thin film and flip every time the solvent bubbling tapers off.

 

[~Alaska~]

Not the AI, but did it to a Napco.

Easy upgrade, but still leaving you with mostly radiant heat transfer unless you have solid shelves fixed tightly to the heated walls for conduction transfer, or are using heat sink shelves to capture and retain the radiant heat.

More shelves can also block radiant transfer to the existing shelves.

What are your new shelves made of?

So pretty much all the ovens that don't have heated shelves suffer from the same problem, but it can be reduced by the additional elements, but it won't cure the issues without additional heatsinks in the oven. Gotcha. How do the addtional stacking shelves offered maintain temp?

Previously had two 1/2" marble slabs as shelves and they work great. Keeps the oil pretty nice and even when through the warmup stage...but two shelves in a 1.9 is another bottleneck to fight(my current mission is bottleneck destruction!).

Upgraded shelve are 0.09 Aluminum that i had cut to size. Wasn't paying AI $60 per shelf or whatever it is they charge.

Moved them all to the far right last night and in contact with the shelf bracket, so perhaps we've got some good transfer action going on, will let you know.

Also, am considering selling my oven to a friend that doesn't have as much throughput as I need and upgrading. Sounds like for the money an AI with heated shelves is likely better than a Cascade without?

Thanks!

A

 

[Gray Wolf]

If you set it up with an individual thermocouple and PID controller for each shelf, it would be perfect.

 

[DankGuy]

Thanks for the link Deuce. Does anyone know how to remove the safety bass to install the lights?

 

[audiohi]

It's super easy. Just remove the top bracket holding it in. I believe it's one screw. lift the glass out of the bottom bracket and you're set.

 

[blackbart1720]

If you set it up with an individual thermocouple and PID controller for each shelf, it would be perfect.

I would like to mod an AI oven to heated shelves, any idea of what could be used for a vacuume rated bulk head connector for the internal oven wall?

 

[Gray Wolf]

I would like to mod an AI oven to heated shelves, any idea of what could be used for a vacuume rated bulk head connector for the internal oven wall?

For electrical in vacuum chambers, I've usually just potted the wires in a pipe bushing with epoxy, but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components, so are taking a different ploy.

You might consider welding in a 1" or larger NPT Half coupling, or a 1 1/2" sanitary ferrule with an NPT endcap, and thread a PTFE round bar's OD to a MNPT fit.

Drill and tap #10 holes through the bar for each desired conductor and screw in threaded brass rod, using a silicone sealant on the threads.

A client drilled and tapped the holes through the acrylic lid of a DIY chamber, to accomplish the same thing.

Put brass washers and nuts on both ends, and you have conductors for the two power legs and the two thermocouple legs each heat mat requires.

Consider that you can use one common leg, for multiple mats, because the load on it, after the heat mats suck it up, is lower than the hot leg.

Even if it leaks some atmosphere at those points, it should be so low that it is unlikely to be noticed.

 

[blackbart1720]

For electrical in vacuum chambers, I've usually just potted the wires in a pipe bushing with epoxy, but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components, so are taking a different ploy.

You might consider welding in a 1" or larger NPT Half coupling, or a 1 1/2" sanitary ferrule with an NPT endcap, and thread a PTFE round bar's OD to a MNPT fit.

Drill and tap #10 holes through the bar for each desired conductor and screw in threaded brass rod, using a silicone sealant on the threads.

A client drilled and tapped the holes through the acrylic lid of a DIY chamber, to accomplish the same thing.

Put brass washers and nuts on both ends, and you have conductors for the two power legs and the two thermocouple legs each heat mat requires.

Consider that you can use one common leg, for multiple mats, because the load on it, after the heat mats suck it up, is lower than the hot leg.

Even if it leaks some atmosphere at those points, it should be so low that it is unlikely to be noticed.

Thanks GW, definite DIY project on the road.

 

[SkyHighLer]

For electrical in vacuum chambers, I've usually just potted the wires in a pipe bushing with epoxy, but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components, so are taking a different ploy.

You might consider welding in a 1" or larger NPT Half coupling, or a 1 1/2" sanitary ferrule with an NPT endcap, and thread a PTFE round bar's OD to a MNPT fit.

Drill and tap #10 holes through the bar for each desired conductor and screw in threaded brass rod, using a silicone sealant on the threads.

A client drilled and tapped the holes through the acrylic lid of a DIY chamber, to accomplish the same thing.

Put brass washers and nuts on both ends, and you have conductors for the two power legs and the two thermocouple legs each heat mat requires.

Consider that you can use one common leg, for multiple mats, because the load on it, after the heat mats suck it up, is lower than the hot leg.

Even if it leaks some atmosphere at those points, it should be so low that it is unlikely to be noticed.

"For electrical in vacuum chambers, I've usually just potted the wires in a pipe bushing with epoxy, but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components, so are taking a different ploy."

"but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components,"

Which "outgassing components" are being referenced? Bringing the wiring in through a nipple and sealing the gap with epoxy or silicone sealant would seam just fine to me. And if you needed more finesse, surely there must be commercial air tight through the wall connectors if one were willing to dig deep enough, what's Cascade TEK and now AI using?

 

[A6 Grower]

Ya with how cheap heat mats are from china i was also looking at adding heat mats to my selves. If i could use 5 heated shelves in my 1.9 ai id be so happy. Probably add heat mats all all sides of the oven while im at it.

 

[GratefulOne]

"For electrical in vacuum chambers, I've usually just potted the wires in a pipe bushing with epoxy, but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components, so are taking a different ploy."

"but for this application we are concerned about the out gassing components,"

Which "outgassing components" are being referenced? Bringing the wiring in through a nipple and sealing the gap with epoxy or silicone sealant would seam just fine to me. And if you needed more finesse, surely there must be commercial air tight through the wall connectors if one were willing to dig deep enough, what's Cascade TEK and now AI using?

Food grade potting compounds are available but sourcing them is another thing to do. The time adds up. Add all the heat you can or if using a moisture cure (many silicons) look into making sure you have the correct humidity/wettness to speed a full cure.

Even with food grade getting a full cure is the trick. Time also helps.

 

[blackbart1720]

While we're on the subject of vac ovens with heated shelves what about Memmert ovens, they're expensive but look like they'd be the way to go.

 

[SkyHighLer]

^^ Food grade RTV silicone sealant is readily available,
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...=aps&hvadid=4160637940&ref=pd_sl_3wvjhs1f7n_e

I usually reach for epoxy, and then almost always the longest set up and cure product I can get, as it is way stronger, harder, and water/chemical resistant than the quicker curing epoxies.
http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-2-Ton-...ie=UTF8&qid=1419974031&sr=8-11&keywords=epoxy

 

[GratefulOne]

^^ Food grade RTV silicone sealant is readily available,
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...=aps&hvadid=4160637940&ref=pd_sl_3wvjhs1f7n_e

I usually reach for epoxy, and then almost always the longest set up and cure product I can get, as it is way stronger, harder, and water/chemical resistant than the quicker curing epoxies.
http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-2-Ton-...ie=UTF8&qid=1419974031&sr=8-11&keywords=epoxy

This is not true about epoxies at all. The pot time, set time and cure time are easily controlled when you formulate the resin. Often the things added to increase pot life (working time) make the resin weaker. You really can never know without looking at the resin specs. Those specs are rarely available for retail packaged products. Off the shelf retail epoxies have nearly been useless to me. I have always found the products made for industry to have proper spec sheets and formulations which worked better.

 

[SkyHighLer]

This is not true about epoxies at all. The pot time, set time and cure time are easily controlled when you formulate the resin. Often the things added to increase pot life (working time) make the resin weaker. You really can never know without looking at the resin specs. Those specs are rarely available for retail packaged products. Off the shelf retail epoxies have nearly been useless to me. I have always found the products made for industry to have proper spec sheets and formulations which worked better.

I surrender to your superior bodhi knowledge. ;-) Enlighten me with a link to the most gosh awesome two part epoxy I can purchase online in small quantities. TIA!

 

[GratefulOne]

I surrender to your superior bodhi knowledge. ;-) Enlighten me with a link to the most gosh awesome two part epoxy I can purchase online in small quantities. TIA!

Sourcing thermoplastic resins is often the hard part. You are lucky to find a company willing to break down to even a gallon size. Since potting compounds is where this started I think that is more likely to have a source of small quantities (less than 5 gal). Honestly my background is more in coatings and structural resins.