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Sweet leaf vs mk vs bhogart

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
ok well since I dont have pix I understand the law. So, im obliviously a bullshit artist sky? Thx for calling me out buddy! Its interesting to me the way your reacting. I know "pix, or it didnt happen", but sheesh, cant other people have different experiences then you? Variables? Like I said, everything was chilly. When I get more Ill doit again.

It's simple enough, I linked you to pictures where I transferred a frozen can of Dupont Suva R134a into a frozen Mason jar, dumped an ounce of ground quality nuggs into the jar, swished for about five minutes, poured off through filter paper into an evaporating dish, let it boil off, and found nothing (but maybe a few milligrams of 'Mystery Oil.'

Wouldn't you be pissed if you were in my position? :ying:
 

MEMED

Member
pissed? No, Id understand different people can have different experiences. Right? I dunno... beam me a can, ill try again under similar conditions. Im gonna go look and c if walmart has some in stock... mayb a diff brand
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
pissed? No, Id understand different people can have different experiences. Right? I dunno... beam me a can, ill try again under similar conditions. Im gonna go look and c if walmart has some in stock... mayb a diff brand

The stuff at the auto parts stores, etc., almost always have added lubricants, leak detector dyes, and leak stops. Read the label carefully, check the MSDS, and do a test squirt before ruining good herb. Also, there's this if you live in California,

"Detailed Description
NOTE: The California Air Resources Board (CARB) regulates the sales of small containers of automotive refrigerant. To further reduce emissions in California, CARB passed a law requiring among other things that purchases of automotive refrigerant in small containers must use a self-sealing valve on the container. In addition, CARB requires us to collect a $10 deposit will for each container of automotive refrigerant at the time of purchase. To obtain a refund of your deposit, the law requires that you return the containers to O'Reilly within 90 days of purchase with a valid, proof of purchase. This regulation went into effect on January 1, 2010. Accordingly, some containers of automotive refrigerant will not be available for purchase in California and may be priced higher because of the required deposit. If you have any questions, please contact us at 417-862-3333."

The Dupont Suva R134a seems to be clean enough for extractions, though I haven't done a formal residual test on it to get an exact weight. I bought mine via ebay, and had no hassle.

Have fun, at least it's not flammable.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The stuff at the auto parts stores, etc., almost always have added lubricants, leak detector dyes, and leak stops. Read the label carefully, check the MSDS, and do a test squirt before ruining good herb. Also, there's this if you live in California,

"Detailed Description
NOTE: The California Air Resources Board (CARB) regulates the sales of small containers of automotive refrigerant. To further reduce emissions in California, CARB passed a law requiring among other things that purchases of automotive refrigerant in small containers must use a self-sealing valve on the container. In addition, CARB requires us to collect a $10 deposit will for each container of automotive refrigerant at the time of purchase. To obtain a refund of your deposit, the law requires that you return the containers to O'Reilly within 90 days of purchase with a valid, proof of purchase. This regulation went into effect on January 1, 2010. Accordingly, some containers of automotive refrigerant will not be available for purchase in California and may be priced higher because of the required deposit. If you have any questions, please contact us at 417-862-3333."

The Dupont Suva R134a seems to be clean enough for extractions, though I haven't done a formal residual test on it to get an exact weight. I bought mine via ebay, and had no hassle.

Have fun, at least it's not flammable.

Leave us not forget that 134A, 1.1.1.2 Tetrafluoroethane has Hydrofluoric Acid as a degenerative product when combusted.
 

hobb3s93

Member
I've been dewaxing by leaving my collection vessel full of tane on dry ice for 90 min and then sending the solution through a Buchner, and doing the recovery as usual.

off topic but how were u getting ur filter paper to seal ?

mine just kept floating when i poured.

or are u just using the funnel without paper ?
 

dopecook

Member
If you can get your butane to -70 with dry ice and denatured alchy, you wont need an inline dewaxer...

I use this technique everyday. Instead of using alcohol I have my tank in a water cooler that fits it like a glove, then pour crushed dry ice over it. It coats the whole thing like a sleeve with minimal dry ice, and gets it to the -40 temp range.

I am not happy with the results it gives. It does work VERY well. It doesn't work as well as actually freezing and filtering does though. I want to add an actual dewaxing process to my extractor.

I think the Sweet Leaf is engineered great from what I've seen. Unfortunately I have not had the chance to test drive one yet, so I can't really speak. The things I do not like about it is the sight glass (I would use it two or three times to get the feel for it, then run without it), the Parker quick connects, and all the PTFE tape. I think if it was redone with Swagelok fittings, it would be a biiiiig winner.

I look at Terpenators and Bhogarts as parts kits. Either of those can be upgraded and modded to do whatever you want. There are a lot of people who want cool systems, but don't want to wait for the lead time required to build them. I always tell them to just buy a Bhogart to get going, then just start modding it out as you go along. The Terpenator is sort of the same thing, but it obviously depends on who you buy it from. Also most of them are based on the 6" bottom spools, which limits your run sizes.

I think starting with a Terpenator (for DIYers) or a BHOgart (quickest option) and modding it to your own needs is the best choice.

If $$ isn't really an issue, then grab a Sweatleaf! It too can be modded, and has the potential to be far superior.

Thanks
 

unoriginal

New member
Modifying Terrp Extractors MKIII

Modifying Terrp Extractors MKIII

Kind of in the same boat here.

Does anyone know of a source for a reducer spool 6" to 8"?

This way we could just put an 8" spool on the bottom of our 6" X 6" collection pot and keep our original Terp lid.

Well 6" to 10" or 12" would be cool too.

Just a thought.
 

BrainChild

Member
I asked this question in the mr extractor thread but the exciting discussion made my post seem very small ;-)

As somebody getting into my 1st CLS, I was wondering what some of the specific limitations of a passive system are? The lil terp, tasi, sweet leaf etc....when GW says they are extremely limited in what they can do, how exactly? Bhogart says "passive systems are slow and incapable of recirculating the solvent to ensure a thorough extraction and good yield." Not getting a full extraction is kind of a deal breaker if true. Is it true?

It just seems so many people with active terp style systems are happy, I don't see many posts from passive system extractors touting its greatness. But I really like the idea of not having a recovery pump, especially as I get my feet wet...I'd like to know if these passive systems can pull off the same yield
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I asked this question in the mr extractor thread but the exciting discussion made my post seem very small ;-)

As somebody getting into my 1st CLS, I was wondering what some of the specific limitations of a passive system are? The lil terp, tasi, sweet leaf etc....when GW says they are extremely limited in what they can do, how exactly? Bhogart says "passive systems are slow and incapable of recirculating the solvent to ensure a thorough extraction and good yield." Not getting a full extraction is kind of a deal breaker if true. Is it true?

It just seems so many people with active terp style systems are happy, I don't see many posts from passive system extractors touting its greatness. But I really like the idea of not having a recovery pump, especially as I get my feet wet...I'd like to know if these passive systems can pull off the same yield

A good question. Let's review the details!

A passive system relies on temperature differences to transfer the butane from one tank to the other, while an active system can use temperature differences, but they are enhanced with a vacuum recovery pump.

1.0 The pumped system is considerably faster.

2.0 The pumped system evacuates the oxygen before injecting butane, so that there is never an explosive mixture.

2.1 Since it uses no vacuum, the passive system mixes the butane with atmosphere as it is injected and floats the explosive mixture out. It is vulnerable to ignition and explosion during that process.

3.0 The system is recovered to -22" in a pumped system, so only 25% of its volume in vapor is lost.

3.1 100% of its volume in vapor is lost when opening a passive system.

4.0 An active system recovers most of the butane soaked into the material in the columns, by vacuuming to -22"Hg. The pumps are unable to achieve that level until most of the butane is gone.

The last 25% between -22" Hg and -29" Hg, is subsequently pumped off using a vacuum pump, so when the columns are opened, there is not an explosive mixture.

4.1 The passive system not only doesn't recover the butane soaked into the material to the same levels as the active systems, but when opened the columns are definitely within explosive limits.

Because it leaves the butane in the material, losses are greater.

5.0 A pumped system can pass more fresh clean butane through the material faster, and in both directions, so ergo it extracts faster and more completely.

6.0 You can recover a pumped system recovery pot at 31.9F, so as to preserve more carboxylic acids and aromatics.

6.1 Even using dry ice, you are still using a hot water bath with the meds in it, utilizing passive techniques.

7.0 An active system easily pre-distills butane at 85F, to remove residuals including Pentane, which boils around 100F.

7.1 Recovery at 85F using a passive system takes much longer.

8.0 An active system offers more latitude for propane mixes.

How about we start with those and add to them as the questions and comments arrive?
 
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Can't you vacuum a passive system to make it much safer? This would end the explosive mixture and fumes when opening column issues. I know the Mr Extractor can't do this but any properly designed unit will.
 

BrainChild

Member
Ah, Thank you very much for that breakdown GW! I would definitely prefer to work with a system that isn't mixing in atmosphere.

From my understanding, the Tamisium doesn't vacuum the system at all. But I thought the sweet leaf and similar designs do require that the system is pulled to a vaccum before the extraction is started? The butane being pulled through the material by the negative pressure and cold of the ice, down into the collection pot. Do I have that right? Or is only the collection pot that is vacuumed, still leaving most the system exposed to atmosphere?

Your points 3-8 are certainly also very important to consider as well regarding passive vs active
 

flatslabs

Member
The passive system I designed for a friend employs a vacuum before butane is injected. Once the passive extraction cycle is complete, the recovery bottle is again vacuumed down before recovery.

It is a modification of the lil terp design and he does not invert his system, if multiple passes are required a new solvent tank is hooked to the top after recovery and the process repeated. Each recovery of 2lbs of n-Butane takes approximately 45m to 1 hour at 85F on the collection pot and Salt Water / Ice on the recovery vessel.

I should add he is using 1.5" x 36" columns for the most part, and typically does 3 passes for top grade nug runs, which is really all he uses his system for.
I figure a vacuum pump is a standard requirement for any extractor as you need it to purge, so there is really no purpose to have a passive system which doesn't require vacuum as you will have one on hand already, it takes a whole 3 minutes to hook up a hose and pump the system down.
 
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flatslabs

Member
Kind of in the same boat here.

Does anyone know of a source for a reducer spool 6" to 8"?

This way we could just put an 8" spool on the bottom of our 6" X 6" collection pot and keep our original Terp lid.

Well 6" to 10" or 12" would be cool too.

Just a thought.

Here is a 6" to 12", they are also available in 8" and 10" from somewhere. Chonkski has a similar setup, look for the thread mentioning the "Transforminator"

They are called end cap reducers btw:

http://www.glaciertanks.com/End_Cap_Reducers-End_Cap_Reducer_6_TC_x_1_5_TC_Reducer_SS304_2_1_2.html
 

hobb3s93

Member
Here is a 6" to 12", they are also available in 8" and 10" from somewhere. Chonkski has a similar setup, look for the thread mentioning the "Transforminator"

They are called end cap reducers btw:

http://www.glaciertanks.com/End_Cap_Reducers-End_Cap_Reducer_6_TC_x_1_5_TC_Reducer_SS304_2_1_2.html

getting ready to modify my mkiii to this configuration

are there any drawbacks to using a 12'' spool vs using a 10'' spool?
id obviously like the extra room an the reducers wernt available in 6'' to 10'' anyway(maybe i missed them).

would a 6x12 mounted on a 12x12 be capable of handing a 4x48 tube or watever size terpps 5lb is?

figured i ask before i purchased...
 

hobb3s93

Member
are double hinge (low pressure?) clamps interchangeable with single hinge clamps?
glacier is sold out of single hinge figured i would grab double hinge for a couple bucks more.
using them on 3'' btw
 
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