I.m.h.o the first think to do is to blackout those blue buckets and the return pipe too.You may also consider ditching those air pump(they introduce heat and lot's of nasty thing in water) and replace them by a waterfall.Fish filter to hold and breed bene is also a good option.
RDWC Roots are never white? even with tea
- Thread starter Dr.Tone
- Start date
ok i built a ebb and flow test bucket with the same concept as snypes setup. i got the Genral hydroponic Micro and Bloom and added it in a 1:1.5 ratio in 0EC RODI water till i reached about 0.9 EC. i rinsed all my hydroton in bleach and ro water and rinsed 3 times with fresh rodi. i added a lil bit of ph up and adjusted to 5.8 ph and 0.9ec temp 68 and added 0.5 ml bleach to my 5g res. i got my best clone i had. this thing had roots a foot long. put him in the system This morning i woke up and the clone was droopy. so i misted with some water and adjusted the flood time from every 6hrs to 4hrs. we will see if this helps out. hopefully ill have very nice white roots in a week or so.
Something doesn't seem right if the plant is drooping. I would have used new hydroton and just rinsed it out with pH'd water instead of bleach. Even when you try to rinse the bleach off of the hydroton, a small film can stay there. Bleach is hard to get off. If you were to stick your hand of a your bleach cleaning solution and then try to wash your hand, you will notice a slimy feeling to your hand and it takes a while to get it off. I think the bleach can leave a residue and be harmful to your delicate plants. That could be one of your problems. Adding too much bleach to your REZ can easily kill young plants. It doesn't take much.
You should never go over 2.5 PPM Chlorine (and that's if you have a serious problem). I like to be at 1 PPM of Chlorine in the REZ. You added 0.5 mL of Chlorine to a 5 Gallon REZ. You don't state which brand that you are using because they are all different. I use Clorox Regular Bleach (Unscented and Not Splash Guard). If you were using the Bleach that I was using at the rate that you used it in your 5 Gallon REZ of 0.5 mL, that would bring up the Chlorine PPM to over 3 PPM of Chlorine which I would never recommend. This can kill plants. I don't go over 1 drop per gallon of solution. There's about 20 drops in 1mL.
damn i should just asked befor i added the stuff. i heard 8 drop a gallon but obviously its killing the cutting. how much should i use for 5 gallon. i have original clorox uncented bleach. more like 1 drop per 2 gallons? im trying to find a clorine test locally too, maybe a pool supply store
i see in your journal i just reread you use 1ml about 22 drops for 44 gallons and that gets u to 1ppm.
also whats a good starting EC level for the veg a ebb flow system with phresh rooted cuttings
i dunno what i was thinking trying to reuse the hydroton lol, i in a hurry. ill grab a new bag in the morning and rinse with rodi water only and plant a new clone in and start it right. i really appriciate the help snype
When I first put the Clorox formula together a few years ago, they used less Chlorine in the Clorox. 1 drop per gallon used to equal roughly 1 PPM Cl (but maybe it was 2 ppm). Now 1 drop Clorox with the new formula at 1 drop per gallon is roughly 1.5 PPM Cl from what I remember. Most of my information is in my head or locked up in storage or on a computer that has a broken screen. When you add the Bleach, the chlorine will go away. The rate that it will leave will depend on many factors. It could take a few days or it could take 24 hours depending on conditions or pathogens. When you don't have any problems, I like to stay 0.5 - 1 PPM Cl. But if there's a problem then I like to be at 2 PPM Cl. You can actually observe the Chlorine being used to fight the problem when you have it. You can see it in your Chlorine meter. The numbers will go down much faster. Even a few hours after adding Chlorine. I've documented Chlorine Resistant Cyanobacteria depleting Chlorine levels very fast at those listed rates. I doubt you will ever have to deal with the problems that I've had but what ever problem that you have with pathogens, you can see it in your Chlorine data. When you have a problem, you want to kill off the problem with Chlorine. You have to stay above 0.5 PPM and not over 2.5 PPM because high levels of Chlorine can also kill your plants. You don't want to keep trying to knock down your problem without destroying it completely or they may be able to fight harder next time. This is similar to dealing with a mite when you have those problems. So if you are not checking your instruments when you have a problem, you won't know when to add back your Bleach so that you don't go below 0.5 PPM CL. Also 1 EC is a good level to start rooted cuts. In flowering I switch my formula to 1 part micro to 2 parts bloom. No bloom boosters are needed. I scratched the Kool Bloom. For 5 Gallons of solution, I would use 3 drops of Clorox Bleach.
I
Inspired333
i had originally ran my dwc vats sterile and set clones in for the first time before i went snowbording and came back to the dreaded slime. tea fixed that but now it seems its morphed into a different problem.
so now the choice has to be made sterile or biological. thats why i have one and the other cause im experimenting
Oh I see, cool. Yea that's rough man. And to your other post of thinking of going back to soil; I'm thinking of going, well, "non-DWC" for a try - either soil of soiless hemp like coco/perlite or just perlite or something. Something where I can take advantage of bacteria and mycorrhizae and the "food soil web" to the fullest.
Orca is mycorrhizal fungus not a bennie. It is an innocilant given to plants at a very young age. I make my own spores for soil using kelp, water, and oatmeal in a pan covered for 72 hours.... i apply during their first transplant out of small cups. Wont help cure root rot later in life... not sure if fungus in a sealed dwc is a good thing. Hope it works out for ya.
Root rot can be cures much later using a "microbe tea" brew, containing bacteria(s) and fungi (which is broad, but definitely mycorrhizae). It's (myco's) ok in DWC but you have to keep innoculating because it's needs a direct relationship with the roots to 'awaken' full and to breed, in soil medias much less innoculation is needed.
^My understanding bro^
If you're thinking of going/sticking with benies/fungi stuff I'd like to "re-suggest" that "heisenberg ewc root slime tea" thread I thought I mentioned(?) It's easy as fauck, cheap as fauck and there is over 340 pages of success and experience archived and detailed there.
Oh and I'd say if you're gonna follow Snype's method I'd follow it to a 'T'. Don't wanna be mixing bleach and bennies and fungi or any of that shit.
It's my understanding that Snype uses strictly 'chemical' nutes, only base (gen hydro flora lucas) occasional kool bloom liquid, and bleach - and that's it.
Keep us posted bro, I'd like to know what happens.
Peace
captinahab
Member
Root rot can be cures much later using a "microbe tea" brew, containing bacteria(s)and fungi (which isbroad, but definitelymycorrhizae). It's (myco's) ok in DWC but you have to keep innoculating because it's needs a direct relationship with the roots to 'awaken' full and to breed, in soil medias much less innoculation is needed. ^My understanding bro^
I think the bacteria is eating the root rot and then they die which is why you see the quick fix in it. Mycorrhizae probably does very little.
In soil we innoculate with myco one time. It an innoculant like the flu shot. You dont get a flu shot every week..lol. Basicaly the myco aka mold bonds with roots increasing its capacity to intake nutes. Everywhere the mold grows that is bonded to the roots is like having more transfer sites without having more roots.
Question.. do you see white mold growing in your rez when you treat with it for root rot with myco? Is it bonded with the roots intaking nutes. Probably not. It may help uneffected areas slightly but bacteria are eating the funk thats tring to end your crop..
You could prolong the life of bacteria, fungi, myco by raising the D.O. of the water.... but all thats going to do is extend your "tea fix" refresh rate for a day or two.
Dont get me wrong.. it cant hurt.. but myco doesnt eat slime.
I think the bacteria is eating the root rot and then they die which is why you see the quick fix in it. Mycorrhizae probably does very little.
In soil we innoculate with myco one time. It an innoculant like the flu shot. You dont get a flu shot every week..lol. Basicaly the myco aka mold bonds with roots increasing its capacity to intake nutes. Everywhere the mold grows that is bonded to the roots is like having more transfer sites without having more roots.
Question.. do you see white mold growing in your rez when you treat with it for root rot with myco? Is it bonded with the roots intaking nutes. Probably not. It may help uneffected areas slightly but bacteria are eating the funk thats tring to end your crop..
You could prolong the life of bacteria, fungi, myco by raising the D.O. of the water.... but all thats going to do is extend your "tea fix" refresh rate for a day or two.
Dont get me wrong.. it cant hurt.. but myco doesnt eat slime.
Here is an update. I switched to rodi water and the Lucas formula 3ml micro and 9ml bloom. My plant were showing signs of intervienal clorosis so I added 5ml per gallon calimagic and things have started to improve. Growth seems great but ever since the switch to rodi water my pH has been dropping not rising so I have to add pH up every 2 days or so to bring it to 6.1 then it drops to 5.5 in about 3 days. Ive even tryed lowering my ec but that dosnt seem to change the drop. Roots are looking good too. My rodi water when it comes out of the filter pH test at 4.5 - 5.0 and 0ppm then after I add the nutes its like 4.0 so I add pH up until its 6.0 let it sit for a day then fill the system.
I
Inspired333
I know how mycorrhizae works, fully, and all that.
The heisenberg tea thread explains why you 'innoculate' frequently and also why it's recommended to innoculate the root crown in hydro. So we don't need to get into that.
I don't think I said "the myco eats the slime". What I said was "the microbe tea cures root rot". If root rot is what one indeed has, then check that thread, make some for nickles a brew (or whatever it is) and follow the application directions.
I did, however, see white fuzz (mold as you say) on the lower stem at the riot root cube on one plant that had been given "the tea" once; we tripped out and cut it down 'cause we didn't make the connection.
Also, go look at the ingredients of "mycos" on fungi.com; you'll see there are way more than trichoderma and endo/ecto mycos - there's all types of benes.
Hey man, they look pretty good.
That doesn't sound like any 'lucas ratio' I've read about, not even "head's" modified - whatever works though dude.
I cannot explain the dropping ph. I had the issue and the only thing I can chalk it up to would be that GD algae/greenish brown crap that was stuck to my uniseals. I think it was promoted by verrry tiny light leaks coupled with temps; which weren't ideal, but not terrible by any means either. I haven't updated the thread I posted about those issues yet with that info or pics cause I couldnt get them uploaded.
That maybe coupled with if you were overfeeding I think it would make sense that even if you lowered the ppms to a "desired level"/lower level, the plants root zone may attempt to....release some of it's abundance of salts/nutrients which would then lower the ph. But I lowered and lowered until I thought "ok, there's another problem here cause there's no way this plant only wants 300ppm".
Got anything on your uniseals, or anywhere in the system for that matter?
PS: have you still not lightproofed that system? Because I think a few people have mentioned that
Panda film or reflectix on the buckets and pvc.
yea its sorta a modified lucas ratio. In veg its a 1:1.5 ratio and when i switch to flower it will be the normal 1:2 ratio. i just dilute the 8/16 to the desired EC. when i res change every friday i shop vac out all the buckets and scrub them out with a dish brush. everything is clean as a whistle. when these guys go into flower next week im gonna start a sterile res and ditch the bennies. Im gonna build another current culture with grey buckets just to be sure there no light leaks or slime contaminates.
Right now my water temp is 67 PH 5.8 and the PPM 1100 @.68 1.6 EC. 5ml ive been toping off every 3 days with the same nutrient mix i have stored in a barrel and the ppm never increases or drop just stays the same? ill have to get on the lightproofing asap.
Right now my water temp is 67 PH 5.8 and the PPM 1100 @.68 1.6 EC. 5ml ive been toping off every 3 days with the same nutrient mix i have stored in a barrel and the ppm never increases or drop just stays the same? ill have to get on the lightproofing asap.
Bring your questions to the following:
Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282319
I will help you.
richyrich
Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282319
I will help you.
richyrich
