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F45 v3.0 "Ricky's Dope Farm"

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
I just dropped off the newest batch of OG Headcheese to my primary dispensary, and went to check out the reviews from the last batch. I think that this run, was hands down, the best yet. It will be interesting the see the new reviews. Reviews like these make me feel like I made the papers and shit lol...
https://www.stickyguide.com/dispensaries/medicine-bowl-collective/products/og-headcheese--2

I just went and read the reviews on that site. That is fucking awesome arm!!!!!!!! That was so cool to read the reviews, and see your shit on another website!!!!! Between your descriptions of the plants while they grow, and the reviews, you have the wheels in my head just a crankin'!! I have a deadhead mother that is my favorite smoke, and I always run a gaggle of different "cheese". I just got a bottle of Cs the other day. So now it's on!!!! You have inspired me to make my own DHOG x Cheese. Now to start brainstorming idea's for names!!
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
Saw your tincture when I clicked on the link!! Inspiring bro!
If you look at their menu, you will see a hard candy that I will be providing the "active ingredient" to in the future. We are meeting after I get the samples back from the lab to establish a baseline. Hopefully, I can use my same concentrated stock oil mixture.
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
I just went and read the reviews on that site. That is fucking awesome arm!!!!!!!! That was so cool to read the reviews, and see your shit on another website!!!!! Between your descriptions of the plants while they grow, and the reviews, you have the wheels in my head just a crankin'!! I have a deadhead mother that is my favorite smoke, and I always run a gaggle of different "cheese". I just got a bottle of Cs the other day. So now it's on!!!! You have inspired me to make my own DHOG x Cheese. Now to start brainstorming idea's for names!!
The Deadhead OG, Tahoe OG, and GSC are also my flowers, and reviews. I was told that there should be some reviews of the Tahoe posted soon. My C-99 is out of stock, but will be refilled soon, and there was 5 star reviews for that as well previously.
The funny thing about the OG Headcheese, is that some "purchasers" swore it was Hawaiian Sweet Skunk, and had no "Cheese" in it. Just goes to show what they know, since the UK Cheese was a Skunk breeding project. When you start crossing hybrids, who knows what the fuck you will get...
Because of the above experience, and the fact that I do not have access to the breeder, I may just call it something else myself. Having 4 people identify it as guava, gives me the first piece in the puzzle.
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
First Room Loaded!

First Room Loaded!

I brought my assistant with me today, and we got the first 66 plants loaded. I still need to install the netting, and top off some of the pots with hydroton. Considering the fact that I relocated these plants, with no knowledge of where I was going to be 3 weeks ago, I think I will do just fine :) I will be vegging them for the next 7-10 days before flip. I tried to put the taller/stretchier plants on the outside edges. Next time I will have twice as many clones as needed, and will cull appropriately.
Current plant count:
SDD=4, C-99=10, Forum=1, Urkle=1, Chem Sis=12, OGHC=7, Blue Dream=12, Ken's GDP=15, and Deadhead OG=4.

picture.php

For some stupid fucked up reason, when I take pictures on my iPhone rotated, they can not be rotated before, or after uploading. I even tried to reload them rotated 90 degrees the other way in the hopes that they would show up right. But no.... Anyways, I will be taking my camera with me next time. In the meantime, just turn your head sideways.
OGHC, with Chem Sis in the background.
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Blue Dream along the right edge, lone Forum Cut in the left corner (that may end up getting trained into the next row, stretchy bitch!), and Ken's GDP in the middle and lower left.
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Mostly C-99, with some GDP on the inside edge.
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My first major concern is the ability of a 55 gallon tank to feed 66 two gallon pots with ebb and flow. Luckily, there are two 250 gallon ICB tanks on site. I will need to build a shelter for them, and plumb them into the existing system. The alternative is having to refill, or top off the 55 gallon tank almost daily by the end of stretch.
I plan on installing the netting, and possibly taking cuttings for the second room tomorrow.
 

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
hell yeah man, good to see things are rockin already. excited to see how everything turns out, i can't stand doing multi-strain rooms. but i get it, gotta have variety for the dispensary.

OG Headcheese (Guava Pheno) lol
 
D

DHF

Well Arm...to put shit in perspective for yas , my DIY 5 gal ebb and flow buckets were 35 to a room with an extra 1 as the "controller bucket" , but was really just a failsafe device with an electric float switch wired back to the feed pumps to kill flow if flood levels rose too much before the timers cut off.....and why ?.....

Cuz the weak link in the manufactured units are the bullshit controllers with those vertical cheapass float switches that get salt buildup over time and stick open , flood the room and burn the pumps up....now....

Rez size......I had 72-5 gal buckets in 5 gal buckets with top containers filled with lava rock , and I had the foresight from listening to Heath several yrs before being persuaded to use one of the most bulletproof setups there are , and it was beat into my brain that NEVER think enough is enough as far as juice needs , especially when they start drinkin their asses off in late flower with dialed environment....that said....

I opted for 325 gal "lightproof" pest control tanks with auto topoffs to boot , cuz even though the lava took up most of the volume , and the rootmass by end of stretch would fill in as well , always in the back of my mind I kept hearin Heath say....

Yas can NEVER have too much juice if yas need it , but try and make some if yas AIN`T got it and see how them bitches do , or rather how long they last if yas ain`t there ta catch it....but.....

I`m sure your buddy stayed onsite to monitor juice needs daily , and most likely ya`ll will be there as well , but Overkill`s underrated , and I only went to my setups once a week , so by the time I got there ppm`s were low enough to drain tanks and remix once dialed and hoonin FTW....anyways....

Setup looks good , and the feed manifolds hard plumbed in`s a plus as well , just keep a SHARP eye on said bullshit controller bucket with all the cheapest components absolutely possible the hydro whore manufacturers could employ , including that timer strapped to the front of it , and you`ll be good ta go....

Pullin for yas hard Arm , so good luck and.....

Peace....Freds....:ying:.....
 
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Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
Well Arm...to put shit in perspective for yas , my DIY 5 gal ebb and flow buckets were 35 to a room with an extra 1 as the "controller bucket" , but was really just a failsafe device with an electric float switch wired back to the feed pumps to kill flow if flood levels rose too much before the timers cut off.....and why ?.....

Cuz the weak link in the manufactured units are the bullshit controllers with those vertical cheapass float switches that get salt buildup over time and stick open , flood the room and burn the pumps up....now....

Rez size......I had 72-5 gal buckets in 5 gal buckets with top containers filled with lava rock , and I had the foresight from listening to Heath several yrs before being persuaded to use one of the most bulletproof setups there are , and it was beat into my brain that NEVER think enough is enough as far as juice needs , especially when they start drinkin their asses off in late flower with dialed environment....that said....

I opted for 325 gal "lightproof" pest control tanks with auto topoffs to boot , cuz even though the lava took up most of the volume , and the rootmass by end of stretch would fill in as well , always in the back of my mind I kept hearin Heath say....

Yas can NEVER have too much juice if yas need it , but try and make some if yas AIN`T got it and see how them bitches do , or rather how long they last if yas ain`t there ta catch it....but.....

I`m sure your buddy stayed onsite to monitor juice needs daily , and most likely ya`ll will be there as well , but Overkill`s underrated , and I only went to my setups once a week , so by the time I got there ppm`s were low enough to drain tanks and remix once dialed and hoonin FTW....anyways....

Setup looks good , and the feed manifolds hard plumbed in`s a plus as well , just keep a SHARP eye on said bullshit controller bucket with all the cheapest components absolutely possible the hydro whore manufacturers could employ , including that timer strapped to the front of it , and you`ll be good ta go....

Pullin for yas hard Arm , so good luck and.....

Peace....Freds....:ying:.....
Hey Freds, I have a question of feeds with the ebb and flow system. I am only using Hydroton as a medium, and I realize it's a different monster than DTW Coco.
I know the rocks are not very absorbent, and was wondering how often you fed them. Right now I have it set to feed every 4 hours.
 
D

DHF

Hey Freds, I have a question of feeds with the ebb and flow system. I am only using Hydroton as a medium, and I realize it's a different monster than DTW Coco.
I know the rocks are not very absorbent, and was wondering how often you fed them. Right now I have it set to feed every 4 hours.
Hey Bro.....I only fed 3 times a day/every 4 hrs during lights on , but I was runnin 5 gal buckets with lava and all the plants pre-vegged before goin in the buckets/fliprooms 12/12.....

Heath never fed lights off in the same size buckets you`re runnin to acclimate the plants not to need juice durin said dark period to encourage root growth toward the small 1-1/2/2" of residual juice left in the bottom containers , even in veg , but he also fed 4 times /every 3 hrs during lights on to make sure the lil clay balls didn`t dry out too much and cause ph issues.....now....

There was a guy some yrs back that swore by feedin 6 times a day in the smaller manufactured units including lights off , but he kinda faded away and we never heard anymore from him about said feed schedule , but the most important thing by far is......

Do NOT try ta grow a bigger plant in said smaller container cuz if yas build too big of a rootmass by end of stretch when they stop makin roots , the containers will clog and backflow , feed will stop , and root rot will ensue ....fast.....

I never EVER heard of root rot in ebb and flow buckets for yrs and yrs till buncha younger kids started toyin with the CAP setups tryin ta grow big plants in lil buckets , and then all manners of shit started getting spread around like chillers were required to run the setup which is utter horse shit.....

In all my bottom buckets , I had ebb and flow table "overflow screens" on the insides that hooked to 1" feedlines hardplumbed just like your setup , but I had big ass inline shurflo pumps that BLASTED feed into the bottom and upper containers to push ALL stagnant air up and out the upper containers while mixin with the leftover residual juice left in the bottoms .....and then......

I had separate drain pumps SUCKIN all juice back to the rez at lightspeed to pull as much fresh O2 BACK down into the rootzones as feed was removed for explosive rootmass building , but I was only growin 2-1/2 oz plants with no possibility of too much rootmass by end of stretch FTW.......

As the feed blasted in the bottom containers , it pushed and trained the roots away from the e&f overflow screens , and when drainage ensued , the screens kept any roots from growin down the feed/drainlines preventing any chance of clogging/stopping up....anyways....I could go on and on , but you catch the drift.....

I don't suggest feed during lights out unless they`re all but fallen over and dried out by lights on , but since I don`t know how much juice is left over in your bottom buckets after each feed sequence , it`s still and "X" factor, so holler back with a few details and we`ll turn that bitch into a lean , mean GREEN producing machine......

Peace....Freds.....:ying:.....
 

pmoney

Member
242wy83.jpg

daaaaaaaaaaamn!
Just got into the OG Headcheese and found this bad boy at the bottom, hah barely fits in a mason jar!! Every time its always flawless flowers. The close ups, the lab results..i love it. its all super.and ur tinctures and SHATTER are INCREDIBLE. Ive already downed a good amount of the 400ml bottles.. lol im a fiend. almost need more max strength bottles. LOVE IT! keep it up, Big A
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
View Image
daaaaaaaaaaamn!
Just got into the OG Headcheese and found this bad boy at the bottom, hah barely fits in a mason jar!! Every time its always flawless flowers. The close ups, the lab results..i love it. its all super.and ur tinctures and SHATTER are INCREDIBLE. Ive already downed a good amount of the 400ml bottles.. lol im a fiend. almost need more max strength bottles. LOVE IT! keep it up, Big A
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
Haha, surprised it took you that long to find that one lol. Normally, I break them down from that size, but I figured you would appreciate it.
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
Unhappy Plants! :wallbash:

Unhappy Plants! :wallbash:

Spent half the day at the new site addressing my plants in Alpha. There is the most severe twisting I have experienced. I am kicking myself in the ass for reusing (at the site owners direction) the Hydroton, without cleaning it myself. I suspect the remaining root matter, and dust in the rocks is causing root zone PH issues. My res has been staying at 5.8 - 5.9, which worked fine in Coco, and was told it is an acceptable range for Ebb and Flow. Being that I am running straight rock, I may need to be a bit lower, almost DWC ranges...
If it is not PH based, my next suspect is low RH. It has been at 30%, and I want it at least 60%, if not 70% at this stage in the game. The EC has been very slowly climbing from 1.8, to 2.1 over the last 7 days, which tells me the VPD is off, and they are pulling water out of the soup rather than the air. That would explain the starvation symptoms on some of the larger plants.
Before I transplanted them, they got an innoculation dunk, rather than a spray. It was a combo of Avid and E20, so I doubt that it is insect related.
The adjustments I made today are the following:
Drained 25% of tank, topped off with water, and adjusted to PH 5.0 (I figure that should offset the high root zone PH).
Sprayed a Veg spray to deliver nutes via foliar spray.
Started a batch of OG BioWar Tea, which will be drenched at 1/2 cup per plant, once a week.
The best looking plants are definitely the more established plants, which makes sense, since they would have more reserves to draw from, and offset lockouts for a certain period of time.
I keep forgetting my camera, and my iPhone doesn't like me, and rotates my photos... I wouldn't bother posting these, but I want you guys to see the twisting.
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Close up of the twisting on a C99
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The larger plants (GSC Forum in this picture) seem to be doing better...
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Got the first screen in place. I was able to re-purpose my screens from my Vert setup with no extra parts, just a slight reconfiguration. I should have the rest in place by the weekend.
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I took 4 trays of clones for the next room. Most of the mothers have been pruned and shaped. There are a few new ones I am letting go a few more days before I take more cuts.
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Once again, sorry for the sideways photos. I will make it a point to bring my good camera tomorrow. Hopefully, I will see some positive changes...
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
damn some of those c99 leaves those do look pretty fucked up. But, it sound like you are on top of it. It's always fun dialing in a new spot especially when it's somebody else's old spot.

everything else is nice and green though, although those new screens look awfully empty :laughing:

that is one monster OGHeadcheese bud a few posts back...

keep it up!!!
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
damn some of those c99 leaves those do look pretty fucked up. But, it sound like you are on top of it. It's always fun dialing in a new spot especially when it's somebody else's old spot.

everything else is nice and green though, although those new screens look awfully empty :laughing:

that is one monster OGHeadcheese bud a few posts back...

keep it up!!!
This room is nowhere near flipping to 12/12 at this point. The screens may be empty now, but I will be arranging the plants according to stretch factor, so that the screens will be full.
I would not be surprised if I have Bravo loaded and flipped before Alpha recovers. I have almost 200 cuts that will be rooting over the next few days, all tall, prime cuts. I will be using new medium in Bravo, and an even canopy.
 
D

DHF

Always ph`ed my juice to 5.2-5.5 and let it rise gradually as the plants ate over a weekly basis Arm , but being that I had such large rez`s they wouldn`t rise as fast as smaller barrel types , or ec rise that fast for that matter....but mine never rose over 5.9 from sat.-sat. , and ec never moved from 1.2-1.5 with RH in check.....

The leaf twisting looks like the purplewrecks I ran back some yrs ago in that my RH was always on point , but they didn`t like the ph they were at to assimilate juice...and....

Big ass rez`s help buffer shit well and keep juice from yo-yo`in up and down so fast Arm....and almost forgot , yas might wanna back off the feeds till better root mass is built with the smaller stragglers , so they can dry more between sequences.....anyways....

Hope yas get shit under control....

Peace....Freds.....:ying:....
 
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RB26

Vendor
Veteran
I didn't catch the yellowing/bleached out leafs when I saw that pic earlier, I just focused on the twisting. It definitely looks like a nutrient/ph issue rather than humidity. As DHF said, back off the nutrients a little and lower that res to 5.4 - 5.5 (consistently) for a couple days and see what you get.

Do you have roots hanging out the bottom of the buckets? What do they look like?
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
I didn't catch the yellowing/bleached out leafs when I saw that pic earlier, I just focused on the twisting. It definitely looks like a nutrient/ph issue rather than humidity. As DHF said, back off the nutrients a little and lower that res to 5.4 - 5.5 (consistently) for a couple days and see what you get.

Do you have roots hanging out the bottom of the buckets? What do they look like?
The Forum cut is the only one that has roots showing in the bottom of the 2 gal pots, and they are fresh and white.
I dropped the PH yesterday, and I may rebuild the res at half strength.
 

SRGB

Member
Arminius:

There is the most severe twisting I have experienced. I am kicking myself in the ass for reusing (at the site owners direction) the Hydroton, without cleaning it myself.


Hi, Arminius.

We had began this post on several occasions and ultimately had to attend to other matters. In any event, we will attempt to describe with brevity as to the chemical properties, some possible options the soilless gardener might consider, loosely listed below.

Your practices, as described in your post, appear to have input a fair amount of a variety of chemicals into or onto the speciemn. Perhaps 2-3 days of water only cycling through the system might help. Or, alternatively, at least once a week cycling through only water - espcially with the clay pellets that never cease washing off clay (organic) deposits into the system, similar to lava rock in that regard.

An option that might be considered by the soilless gardener could be, perhaps, to explore a simpler regime; that is, for example, only 2-3 bags of dry nutrients, mixed at delivery time for the specific needs of the specimen at that occasion - calcium mixed and applied entirely separately. Just a possible option that might provide somewhat more flexibility - and simplicity - while possibly decreasing the potential for precipitation or immiscibility.

1) Feeding an Calcium, or Calcium-Magnesium-Iron supplement by itself, approximately every 10 days. That is, not mixed with the regualr nutrients (NPK-Mg-S, et al.) delivered. Iron issues can be difficulkt to diagnose or distinguish from calcium issues, they both might appear first at the tops as a paling yellowish colour. Calcium issues can stunt growth, iron issues, if not corrected, can gradually make the entire specimen appear to be `scorched`.

2) It might not be that the above noted elements are not within the regular nutrient mix, but rather, might have formed precipitates (insoluble solids) either within the nutrient solution itself, the feed lines/manifold/pumps, and/or the media itself. When we experimented with continuously recirculating methods with 20 gallon SRBGB`s, we would maintain approximately 3 complete sets of the entire feed system. The method was 24/7 top feed, but the same principle might apply, that is, every 7-10 days we would swap out the entire feed system (pump, manifolds, feed lines, emitters) for one of the pre-cleaned feed systems, and then clean the removed feed system.

From our experiments with SRBGB`s we found Mg issues to be initially observable at the lowest (youngest) shoots and leaves; calcium issues observable at the tops (oldest) leaves or terminal flowers, and iron issues also might be observable at the tops first as well. This does not necessarily mean that the elements or compunds are not within the solution, but perhaps unavailble or partially insoluble within the solution.

If calcium is within a multi-element/compound solution, premixed, it can be in a `slow release` form, though most fertilizer co.`s do not state that on the `label`. Iron becomes less soluble as the pH rises in either the solution itself, or the media - even if `present`. Magnesium can be applied by itself, or foliar fed, relatiely easily. The former 2 elements can be difficult to isolate as causes of issues and further to correct mid-season, but possible.

Some of the humic or fulvic acid products might help chelate the whole of the solution. One option might be to cycle through one or two of the `tonic` type solutions every 2 weeks or so, for example mag-i-cal (mg, fe, ca) and/or flora-licious - again, fed by themselves, respectively - not with the regular solution. perhaps simultaneously swapping out and cleaning the entire feed apparatus.

Again, it is not that a pre-mixed solution may not have all of the required elements already present, but that those elements - chemically - might become immiscible within the totality of a solution.

3) We have not experimented with premixed liquid solutions in some time, but rather prefer to mix the dry forms of elements or compounds, save for the occasional potassium-silicate or the flora item mentioned above. That practice might permit the soilless gardener to scale their nutrient delivery to the present requirements of the specimen, rather than continuously applying a `full` solution that may, or may not be homogenous at the microscopic level. We would generally feed calcium entirely separately from any other salts, from its own tank. We would also feed iron separately, occasionally. flora-licious might only require 1 drop per 5 gallons of water, especially the `plus` variety, should contain some form of humic acid (for a chelating agent).

The specimen depicted appeared to express a very modest form of iron issues, very correctable at that point; perhaps some calcium issues as well. Both of those can generally be prevented by taking the most healthy cutting from a healthy donors` lower (youngest) shoots - and not feeding a full strength solution to the cuttings until new growth forms. The principle being that the cutting already has all of the essential elements it requires for rooting within its stem, leaves and shoots - if healthy when taken from the donor.

4) That particular type of clay medium, if we recollect from previous experiments, never actually ceases to wash off deposits, or `sludge`. It might work well as a drain to waste `chow mix` (with either coco coir or peat as the other constituent), yet the gardener may have to account for and manage that `sludge`, that is, `organic build up` within the pump, manifold, feed lines, emitters, etc., if using clay pellets alone - in a recirculating type system. Again, the approach we took when we ran actively reciculating systems with SRBGB`s; was to swap out and clean the entire system at least 3 occasions per month.

5) An alternative media that would decrease the amount of organic deposits being washed off at every feeding might be ordinary pea gravel, washed stone, or even washed river rocks. Though, we would probably explore large (1 inch) pumice as a reusable media in such an active system.

We did not intend for this post to be this lengthy - especially without going into the chemical property details of the given solution. It might be interesting to send samples of your input solution, run-off (drain/flow) solution (effluent) and some of your media (saved in a plastic bag, with its moisture content maintained) to the testing lab, to review the differernces as to the compounds therein or thereon, and their corresponding solubility at the pH`s they are preserved at when extracted from the system.

--

We do hope that at least some of the above might be helpful during your gardening exploration. None of the above is intended to be definitive diagnostics, solutions, nor exacting preciseness as to the chemical properties of calcium, iron, magnesium, etc. Only cursory observations, which the soilless gardener might further examine or explore, shared from our experiments with SRBGB`s,

Best,
/SRGB/
 

DabOnDabs

Active member
Veteran
Yo man, i guess its about time i popped in here and said what up. The new spots looking badass. The PVC setup at the bottom is a return? Or a drain? Either way it looks very clean...Im doing something similar with my bottom buckets. Never having to dump anything is super nice.

I've had some issues w/ twisting and such. As mentioned, it has been nutrient/ph issues rather than humidity when it looks like that. I've dealt w/ both, and the deformity I have seen come from unstable PH whereas clawing and yellowing seems to be VPD.

Give 'er a week or two, they'll bounce back..I dont need to tell you that though :)

Curious to see your plants with the Jacks Bloom Booster schedule. Never saw that on their product line (10-30-20)..with adjustment, thats more like (10-8-20) right? (P205 is only 43% P or whatever)..

Anyways, looks like a badass bloom formula. Would love to see you kill it with this shit, so i can jump on the bandwagon!

I'll post more and keep on checkin in! Take care brother!
 

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