mr. durden
Member
slick on both accounts! what size cooler did you use?
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Terpenation at Terpene Station
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
Thanks.
Thanks we were able to locate the parts at our gas supplier.
Thanks, we were also able to find these parts locally. Do I just remove the "plug" looking thing with the square head and then replace it with the cga510 to male? And all of the brass to brass should be taped, less the flare, correct?
mr. durden
Member
it should just screw into the fitting on the other side of the pics you posted
Yea, it just appears that there is a plug in the hole currently with a square "hex" like head. A friend had suggested it might be some sort of flow regulator, but looked like a brass dust plug to me, but I really dont know for sure. Just want to verify that's just a temp plug and can come out..safety first.
IC,
I think the idea is to heat it from all sides instead of just the bottom. So encompassing the collection vessel is what we are after...
I think the idea is to heat it from all sides instead of just the bottom. So encompassing the collection vessel is what we are after...
Update on the oil filter...
After running the pump for aprox 6 mins non stop in a 6x6' bathroom with the door closed. I opened the door and noticed a slight haze hanging in the air, so its not a 100% filter, but it greatly reduces the fog. Normally it would be a thick thundercloud hanging in the room when I open the door. So an improvement yes but not a fix all.... Maybe its the filter Im using... I didnt get the one suggested so...
After running the pump for aprox 6 mins non stop in a 6x6' bathroom with the door closed. I opened the door and noticed a slight haze hanging in the air, so its not a 100% filter, but it greatly reduces the fog. Normally it would be a thick thundercloud hanging in the room when I open the door. So an improvement yes but not a fix all.... Maybe its the filter Im using... I didnt get the one suggested so...
I still dont get why you cant order a can tap.. Canada wont allow it over the border or what?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=267036
I made thread not to long ago about the possible dangers of running vacuum pumps in closed quarters. Mineral oil vapors are not something we want settling in our lungs or on our freshly purged oil.
try some tubing hose clamped to the exhaust and then feed out a small hole to the outside.
I made thread not to long ago about the possible dangers of running vacuum pumps in closed quarters. Mineral oil vapors are not something we want settling in our lungs or on our freshly purged oil.
try some tubing hose clamped to the exhaust and then feed out a small hole to the outside.
As to heating the pot, can that fancy soup pot you guys are using be externally controlled by a better thermostat with the sensor suspended in the water? The Dorkfood DSV handles 1,800 watts, and is plug and play, about $100. http://www.dorkfood.com/dp/B0088OTON4
Here's my idea for a steady temperature water bath. I'm assuming you don't need to have the water higher than 130F or so, otherwise things would need to be upgraded.
Your pot goes into a larger pot or bucket like your doing now, only all the heating and heat control is done several feet away (as far as you like, basically.) Hose is run in (bottom) and top (out) via standard hydroponic reservoir hose bib adapters and garden hose. A large Rubbermaid tub will do for the supply side tank, again an adapter for the inlet and a hole cut high in the side for the exit. A small submersible fountain pump is connected with a very short piece of garden hose (garden hose used throughout) to a garden hose 'Y' ball valve control, where each 'fork' is controllable. One fork controls the amount warm water that constantly recirculates right back into the tank, while the other controls the warm water headed out to the water bath via of course more garden hose. The rest is easy, a bucket heater goes in the tank, http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-...&qid=1379084347&sr=8-1&keywords=bucket+heater
which is plugged into any controller with sensor you choose, from the basic Ranco ETC, the plug and play Dorkfood DSV, or a better PID controller, assembled or DIY. The sensor imo should be measuring the warm water as it's leaving the tank on it's way to the water bath.
Too bad you can't use the silicone heat mats, I love those babies...
Here's my idea for a steady temperature water bath. I'm assuming you don't need to have the water higher than 130F or so, otherwise things would need to be upgraded.
Your pot goes into a larger pot or bucket like your doing now, only all the heating and heat control is done several feet away (as far as you like, basically.) Hose is run in (bottom) and top (out) via standard hydroponic reservoir hose bib adapters and garden hose. A large Rubbermaid tub will do for the supply side tank, again an adapter for the inlet and a hole cut high in the side for the exit. A small submersible fountain pump is connected with a very short piece of garden hose (garden hose used throughout) to a garden hose 'Y' ball valve control, where each 'fork' is controllable. One fork controls the amount warm water that constantly recirculates right back into the tank, while the other controls the warm water headed out to the water bath via of course more garden hose. The rest is easy, a bucket heater goes in the tank, http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-...&qid=1379084347&sr=8-1&keywords=bucket+heater
which is plugged into any controller with sensor you choose, from the basic Ranco ETC, the plug and play Dorkfood DSV, or a better PID controller, assembled or DIY. The sensor imo should be measuring the warm water as it's leaving the tank on it's way to the water bath.
Too bad you can't use the silicone heat mats, I love those babies...
yea midwest, Im aware of the dangers thus the reason I was after a solution to the oil cloud. I still can not exhaust outdoors in my location is why I contain it in the bathroom and then when I leave open the door and run a room exhaust to evacuate it. I have inhaled the oil many times and feel its heaviness in the chest. Not good at all. I got an instant headache one time that made me feel sick. I had to figure something out after that. I may just cut a hole in the wall and add a fan for exhausting oil.. I assume this cloud is flammable? ... thanks
FE
FE
mr. durden
Member
Seems complicated when you can just run with no heat.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Which in turn makes a better quality product, I agree. Although it takes a lot longer and more work after it comes out of the pot.. What are your cold run times like durden? Also Ill get back with you on the cooler size...
mr. durden
Member
About 40 minutes unless I'm running multiple tubes. The latter tubes might be 5 to 10 min longer. I only do 4 cycles on mid or low grade and 3 on the good stuff.
Appreciated.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
same here on the timing aprox 45 mins... going hot @117 F aprox 20 mins per tube, end result being a clear amber shatter with no discernible butane odor, needing very little work after collection. .
The best stuff comes cold though, ripe with terpenes and yellow golden in color. This is what the upper echelon Dab heads are after...If your oil is to be the finest in the land it should be ran cold. My 2.
The best stuff comes cold though, ripe with terpenes and yellow golden in color. This is what the upper echelon Dab heads are after...If your oil is to be the finest in the land it should be ran cold. My 2.
furrywall11
Member
How're you guys measuring the temps on your collection pots? I put a silicon heating mat under mine and set my dorksfood thermostat to 160 degrees -- the exterior of my recovery pot never gets warm to the touch -- as far as I can tell all the mat does is keep the pot from icing over -- when I test my heated recovery pot with a laser it reads 40F... I'm assuming the oil inside doesn't get hotter than that. What do you think? I'm running a 5lb Bhogart extractor and my recovery time is never less than an hour...usually an hour fifteen...
What wattage per square inch silicone mat do you have? The only round Omega's left in stock were 10 watts per square inch, which is so high the heat is probably not getting transferred well to the pot, so the thermostat keeps shutting down with the spikes. Do you place the sensor under the mat with plenty of insulation underneath to insure the sensor is firm up against the mat, and that the mat is firm up against the pot?
You didn't mention what temperatures the sensor was reading, wherever you have the sensor located...??
You didn't mention what temperatures the sensor was reading, wherever you have the sensor located...??
furrywall11
Member
I got 1 5 watt round (the last one in stock), 2 10 watt round chemical resistant - they actually sent me 3 of these which was very cool, and 1 5 watt chemical resistant 12x18" which is the one I use for my extractor. I setup the thermostat sensor with some thick paper towels underneath the heating mat to ensure evenness and full contact with the pot. The thermostat temp usually overshoots the actual temperature by about 10-15 degrees and then settles. I'm not having that problem with my 10watt mats though.. I dial in 120 and it stays at 120.
It'd be cool if I knew some kind of math equation that could tell me what temperature I'd have to dial into my heating pad to generate enough energy to penetrate a freezing recovery tank and heat the contents to 110F.
It'd be cool if I knew some kind of math equation that could tell me what temperature I'd have to dial into my heating pad to generate enough energy to penetrate a freezing recovery tank and heat the contents to 110F.
You need to put thick insulation between the sensor/mat and the ground or whatever everything rests upon. As I read your statement, it's the ground > some thick paper towels > the sensor > the heat mat > the bottom of the pot, correct? Also, are you running the high watt models with any of the element area exposed to free air (not in direct contact with the pot?) Be careful, I torched a 10 watter trying to remotely position the sensor in the liquid I was trying to heat, and I had the whole mat up against the pot. You can dampen these with a wall dimmer if need be, I just cut a cheap wall dimmer into an extension cord, with the controller plugged into one side of it and the mat into the other. Here's a picture of showing a round, etched foil, silicone heat mat with attached thick insulation,
http://www.tamisiumextractors.com/c...encart/image/cache/data/te3000pkg-800x800.jpg
With such a selection of mats you ought to look into a DIY PID controller with solid state relay/heat sink and PT100 thermocouple (.1F tracking.) $50-$60 in parts, instructions at Youtube...
http://www.tamisiumextractors.com/c...encart/image/cache/data/te3000pkg-800x800.jpg
With such a selection of mats you ought to look into a DIY PID controller with solid state relay/heat sink and PT100 thermocouple (.1F tracking.) $50-$60 in parts, instructions at Youtube...
