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Terpenation at Terpene Station

so i'm building a second terp but will be modifying the unit so it can be either a recycle system as it currently is used, or easily switched to a top down blast into a larger collection vessel. basically just doing one cycle of continuous butane followed by recovery. this method would be for top shelf material
 
How does the procedure go for that?

I assume you have less butane in the tank then the amount that would overflood your collection chamber? So you can just leave it open with no fear of overloading?

Couldnt you just use a regular terp, and just use a modified 1.5"triclamp-1/4npt with a nipple and ball valve on the top of the tube, Sight glass on bottom and then leave the vent tube closed?
 
the caresaver is a grip of cash, but you'll have to post about how it works for you :)

the idea is that we don't want the material soaking other than as the butane rushes through it. it would be just one run till the sight glass showed it clear, within reason. think open blasting but in a closed loop system. we already use 6x12 bottoms, so it should hold quite a bit of butane. then we would recover it.

and yes, we could use either terp for that except that my dip tube is too short on my current unit to use a sight glass. i'd still have the dip tube in place on the new unit. this is just for when you do primo stuff that you want clear when it is purged
 
ran cleaning runs and some sample runs through our MK3a's for the first time last night, things are great, appion seemed to run well. It was really the only piece of equipment I wasn't entirely comfortable with going into the first run. Any pieces of advice on these? using a filter dryer, and current the 1/4 turn valves wide open. Recovery time was fast, but we used too much heat, pot was probably at about 130*; was also the first time using the soup pots. They seem like nice units, but getting the temp just right as temps were dropping last night seemed difficult, what number do people find themselves setting it to?

Reading others comments, seems like it might make sense to use no heat at all if just doing a single column/quality material run
 

Hash Man

Member
can taps are so freaking easy... why wouldn't you use it?

I was pretty turned off about my can tapper when graywolf noticed little pieces of paint in his collection vessel when he was checking for mystery oil. Also, there were concerns over what material the gasket on the can tapper was made from .
 
ran cleaning runs and some sample runs through our MK3a's for the first time last night, things are great, appion seemed to run well. It was really the only piece of equipment I wasn't entirely comfortable with going into the first run. Any pieces of advice on these? using a filter dryer, and current the 1/4 turn valves wide open. Recovery time was fast, but we used too much heat, pot was probably at about 130*; was also the first time using the soup pots. They seem like nice units, but getting the temp just right as temps were dropping last night seemed difficult, what number do people find themselves setting it to?

Reading others comments, seems like it might make sense to use no heat at all if just doing a single column/quality material run

keep doing runs till you are sure there is no oil left, and then run some more. i used activated charcoal and did probably 9 or so runs. this after i cleaned, boiled, and wiped down every party before assembly. there is more oil than you'd imagine.

definitely get a prefilter, and get a bigger one than most use in case oil does get to it. a sight glass before the filter helps too. keep an eye on your reclaim hose as you can get oil in it from the inlet side.

the pot heater sucks. it swings too much temp wise even with a thermostat hooked up to it. the pot needs to be way bigger so that it can more easily handle the temp fluctuations. i just opted not to use the pot heater except for low budget material.

you can do no heat for several columns, it'll just take a longer with each subsequent tube. we are now just doing 2-3 cycles per tube when running cold.
 
I was pretty turned off about my can tapper when graywolf noticed little pieces of paint in his collection vessel when he was checking for mystery oil. Also, there were concerns over what material the gasket on the can tapper was made from .

although the gasket makes a seal on the exterior of the can, i wouldn't worry about it. you could always make a new gasket out of something else.

run a filter dryer inline with the can tapper if you are worried about paint getting into the unit. even if paint did, which i've never seen, you clean your collection pot before doing anything anyways, so it shouldn't matter.
 

nakadashi

Member
Which in turn makes a better quality product, I agree. Although it takes a lot longer and more work after it comes out of the pot.. What are your cold run times like durden? Also Ill get back with you on the cooler size...

Can you elaborate a bit on why cold runs take more work after the product comes out of the pot? Thanks
 

nakadashi

Member
our purge times are longer as we keep temps under 100 degrees unless something went wrong and when need to flash heat it to break the bonds.

What temperature do you purge at? The reason I am asking is that you cited GW's statement that keeping the temp. under 85 results in lighter extractions, but also say that no heat at all is the best. From this I am guessing that the appropriate purging temperature is even lower than 85?
 

nakadashi

Member
Thanks, thankfully the one I ordered arrived. Still an alternative would be useful if they work.
You can take a 1/4" flare end and drill a hole in it. Its not easy to use though as you have to use a combination of ptfe and your own strength to finish the seal. I don't have a can tap but after seeing this thread I am definitely getting one too.
 

SneakySneaky

Active member
Veteran
If anything, cold is more manageable as you can pour it off versus scraping

heres some cold temp extract, beautiful cotton candy texture, it scraped right out but definately wasnt pourable.


heres a run i tried to rush through at the end and turned the heat up a bit to speed up the final reclaim, notice how it melted down a bit. this batch was a bit more of a pain to scrape out but still came out beautifully.
 
you need to leave butane in it to pour it out. scraping your column isn't much different than whipping your oil, which is why we don't do it.
 
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