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big plant ppk

hotboxes

Member
Yeah after examination of the pot after the chop I noticed that the wick was packed to tight and the roots couldnt penitrate threw so I am thinking that had something to do with it. My next atempt will be better as I am sourcing some turface for everything, also moving to a med legal state and a bigger space. With some luck and good vibes I might be able to be up and running by sept. or oct.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Yeah after examination of the pot after the chop I noticed that the wick was packed to tight and the roots couldnt penitrate threw so I am thinking that had something to do with it. My next atempt will be better as I am sourcing some turface for everything, also moving to a med legal state and a bigger space. With some luck and good vibes I might be able to be up and running by sept. or oct.

just messin' with you, man! 300% is excellent!
 

hotboxes

Member
But you are corrrect though I should have gotten slightly a little more than I did. If the roots were able to penitrate into the wick next time will be better
 

forkup

Member
how big are those seedlings? right after there's a taproot and they're first put in the media.... common practice is not to feed until a few nodes develop... and then turface dries out pretty quick so it's possible that the EC can skyrocket (in terms of young seedling plants). that can wreak havoc on young roots....

500 to 600 ppm (with your water) is pretty damn strong... if you're seeing yellowing and no claw/curling then why not cut the light back a bit and let things get established instead of boosting EC/ppm....

if you're seeing any claw/curl the yellow is from root damage from too dry and/or too high EC/PPM....

a good guess is there's no claw and your light is a bit strong given the stage of the plant and more importantly the root zone....

remember when D9 stuck those gigantor clones into his media and hit 'em with the usual 600 or whatever, there's tons of green surface on those cuts to handle the light and high EC.... seedlings are a whole different ball game...

cutting the light till they establish and adjust to the dry conditions is a good bet. up your irrigation events at a lower PPM too.

The seedlings are almost 2 weeks old, no claw nor curl. They look exactly like my first attempt with seed in non precharged coco, they have the brown calcium spots. Precharging the coco solved that and I'll definitely do it with turface next time. Yea backing off on the lights is a good idea any time you see stressed seedlings.
 

forkup

Member
D9 what combo of fittings are you using to plumb the 2" pvc to your res? Bulkheads are expensive at $25 each or more. I may have to go with uniseals but it looks like you are using some type of carlon fittings that I can't find.

One more question to bug you, I'm looking at using 16 sites in 3 gallon buckets with 6 inches of turface so how big a pump would you recommend? I have an ecogrow 1267 gph but I'm thinking maybe I should go with a magdrive #18 at 1800 gph. Do you think 100 gph for each site is enough or should I go higher?

Thanks guys
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
D9 what combo of fittings are you using to plumb the 2" pvc to your res? Bulkheads are expensive at $25 each or more. I may have to go with uniseals but it looks like you are using some type of carlon fittings that I can't find.

One more question to bug you, I'm looking at using 16 sites in 3 gallon buckets with 6 inches of turface so how big a pump would you recommend? I have an ecogrow 1267 gph but I'm thinking maybe I should go with a magdrive #18 at 1800 gph. Do you think 100 gph for each site is enough or should I go higher?

Thanks guys

are they going to be wave pulsed or saturated?

with a wave pulse 100 gph per site is good.

with a saturation pulse i would go with at least a 2400 mag drive.

i'm using the 2" carlon fittings from lowes or hd's in the flower room.

in the veg room i'm plumbing with 1.5" carlon fittings as i don't have to do any tapping.



with turface or DE you should only be running the pump about 10 minutes per day so electrical consumption is negligible.
 

forkup

Member
Saturation pulse, I thought 100gph each may be enough for the 3 gallon buckets but I think I will go for the bigger pump as I may end up with the big top containers after a run or 2. What exact 2" fitting do you use? I couldn't find anything to work. In 2" all I saw were male and female adapters for 2" pvc.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Saturation pulse, I thought 100gph each may be enough for the 3 gallon buckets but I think I will go for the bigger pump as I may end up with the big top containers after a run or 2. What exact 2" fitting do you use? I couldn't find anything to work. In 2" all I saw were male and female adapters for 2" pvc.

i used those 2" male and female adapters in the flower room and 1.5" in the vegger.

coat the male threads evenly with goop, put it through from the inside, and tighten it into the female fitting.

using disposable gloves i then wipe a big bead around the inside where it meets the container, let it go off for an hour and then flip it over and run a bid bead around the outside.
 

RipVanWeed

Member
Morning D9, 'nother PPK convert here.

1st off thanks for your contributions, sharing your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated.

Just got my system up and running yesterday. I have a couple of concerns, hoping you could help.

Even though I screened and washed the Turface, my buckets and rez bottoms are coated with silt. Started with Jack's at 1200ec, couple cycles later it's 1500ec. I added some RO, dropping it to 1300ec and let it go over night.

Figured I would drain and clean everything this morning, then restart with fresh Jack's. Thought I had washed it well, obviously not. Next one I add to the system, I'll suspend the tubs with tailpieces outside on the lawn and really do an extensive pour through with tap water. My tap is liquid concrete, up 450ppm! Then I'll flush with RO, then Jack's.

Question about measuring Jack's and CalNit....should I weigh the ferts going in or should I aim for 700ec Jack's and then up the ec to 1200 with the Calnit? Started at 2.6g's of Jack's and 1.7g's of CalN. First batch I tried each way and had different results, nothing too far off, but it seemed as though using the dry weights was higher in Jack's and slightly less CalNit. Compared with the amount I used following my conductivity meter.

How much should I sweat the Ph? 1st hydro style for me, always been a dirt guy with Ph in the mid 6's. Current reads are 1360ec at a Ph of 4.7

Installed 3 young'uns last night into the 1st 3 ppk's. They look good this morning. An OG, a Sour Jones, and a Master Bubba Kush all high fivin' this morning with their tips up. Plan on 4 or 5 on the Veg area, and 8 in the Flower. Perpetual, one plant in and one plant out each week. 1 or 2 400w mh in veg and 3 or 4 1k hps for flower.

More to follow...I'll post a couple pics.

Thanks for any help you can send this way.

Rip
 

forkup

Member
i used those 2" male and female adapters in the flower room and 1.5" in the vegger.

coat the male threads evenly with goop, put it through from the inside, and tighten it into the female fitting.

using disposable gloves i then wipe a big bead around the inside where it meets the container, let it go off for an hour and then flip it over and run a bid bead around the outside.

Hmm, ok then I did find the correct parts I was expecting to find something with o-rings or seals I guess. I've found 2" bulkheads online but they are expensive. I thought about using uni-seals. I guess I'll head back to lowes. I need to care of this today, it's the last piece to the puzzle. Thanks for the help.

Good luck with your setup ripvanweed it looks like you're a few days ahead of me :)
 

real ting

Member
D9, once again blowing us all away with the super clean octopus manifold build. You could make a killing in a med state with a room setup/hydro install business.
 
O

otis33

delta, you really blow me away with your designs. everytime I get close to finishing something, you are already 3 builds and who knows how many upgrades ahead. AMAZING!!!!
 

Big John

Member
no big deal. many people operate just fine with silt (and 1/4" lines to boot... you've probably got the latest design larger diameter lines)



many people start with a lower ec/ppm etc and then it drifts up to the target over time



some people run super hard water in the ppk w/jacks (or GH Flora) with no issues it all. for a new gardener, light and air (good consistent temps and humidity) will make a massive difference whereas some silt or hot or light nutes... ph swings have far less impact than one might think.




that ph might be in the high 4's b/c the nute mix started hot... some people have had issues in large ppk gardens with the pH down around 4.5 (!).... then with a lower input ec... the ph stayed in a tighter range.

oh just read you've got dirt experience so not a nooob... ok so in dirt your pH would swing really low if your mix dried out too much... plant would be fine tho. someone in your position could dial the input ec down a bit which will allow it to drift up to target as water is used and then also have a higher starting pH and tighter ranges.

remember that as those plants get bigger, your pH range will be higher b/c more nutes will get taken up quicker.... more green material catching light... making sugar.... pumping water up and out...

Good info here! My ph kept dropping to the 4-5 range at around 1.4EC when I first filled up the system. I think the turface can add to it initially, when I soaked a solo cup of rinsed screened turface in PH8 .05EC water for an hour it came out pretty acidic and 1.0 EC
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Have you ever thought of Daisy chaining the lower buckets into one line?
Would there be a down side ?
 

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