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HEAT?????
- Thread starter cookie_monster
- Start date
cookie_monster
Member
I only have 2 going*
lost nebula
New member
Stronger fan, more efficient ducting possibly without the splitter then more a/c if you absolutely have to.
Yes that.. we need a little more info
But while we're talking about it, either way you'll want to redo all that duct work. Every turn in the duct and you create friction that slows down the air.
O
OrganicOzarks
Have the ducting start outside one end of the room, and exit the same end it is now. Use an 8" fan per pair of lights. This way the ducting is it's own sealed environment. Right now you are sucking all of the cold air out of the room.
Depending on your climate you will need an A/c in the range of 14,000btu to 20,000 BTU. Then you should be all good.
I am a fan of lung rooms. Especially if you live in a cold area because you can use a fan only on a thremostat to cool the lung room, and then suck in that cool air to cool your main room. Helps to keep the moisture out of your lights as well. Assuming you are in a humid area. It gets over a hundred where I am in the summer, and I use a lung room with an AC to cool.
Depending on your climate you will need an A/c in the range of 14,000btu to 20,000 BTU. Then you should be all good.
I am a fan of lung rooms. Especially if you live in a cold area because you can use a fan only on a thremostat to cool the lung room, and then suck in that cool air to cool your main room. Helps to keep the moisture out of your lights as well. Assuming you are in a humid area. It gets over a hundred where I am in the summer, and I use a lung room with an AC to cool.
Seal the lights up and only use the exaust fan for the lights. Metel elbows and t's will help with efficiency. Pulling the air thru the lights instead of pushing it will make a world of difference. I had a sealed room with 3 1k's and an 8 banger t5 fixture, and co2 burner. I had a 10,000 btu free standing ac that kept the room at 83 degrees with all the lights on. Here's something that will blow everyone's mind too. I used to exhaust my room as well. I had a 430 cfm fan hooked up to a carbon filter. The trick here was that i had my exhaust pushing air thru 15 ft of ductwork and then thru the filter. I know this greatly reduced my airflow, but that's what i wanted. My c.a.p. monitor helped me to figure out why it worked for me. The co2 level in the air always stayed between 1000 and 1500 ppm, and the burner hardly ever came on and when it did, it was only for a few seconds. I had the exhaust in the far top corner of the room oppisite of the burner. So i was getting rid of the warmest air in the room, and the ac was constantly putting cool air back in, along with the burner providing co2. The best piece of advice i can give you is to use seperate fans for air exchange and air cleaning, and straight ductwork
cookie_monster
Member
Yup
Gonna try to getem straight as possible. Im in a dry hot place it's been 85 + all week low humidity
Im in a very hot place almost desert like. I have a good ac, for me sound is a issue as my neighbors share the wall with my room lol so a second fan would be super loud I think
cookie_monster
Member
My room can run at any temp I like at night,day is a different story though. Right now im turning off my lights during the day and busting out the T5s lol the plants don't seem to mind it. But i'm in veg so light isn't really a issue but toward budding im gonna want to bang all 4
Pulling air through the lights is better than pushing it? What about the heat from the lights the fan has to en door?
Huh? Never heard this in my life before??????????? Those fans are designed to pull, not push. Even if the air is warm, you wont effect the fans at all.
I was just talking about this in another thread. While some heat in the intake air won't matter, the fans do have an upper temp limit for intake air. The general intake temp max that I found was around 140 degrees. So, while it might not be a big deal for a tent with 1, maybe 2 smaller lights, if you start doing multiple higher wattage lights on the same duct line, you really do want to push the air rather than pull it.
Also, I don't understand saying they're made to push and not pull. From my understanding of the physics, it shouldn't matter, the force is all going to be on the turbine anyway. The only part of the fan that experiences any force from the air is the turbine, and it's going to experience the same amount of resistance if it's pulling or pushing, because the specific pressure on the low side of the turbine should be the same in either case.
A
ak-51
Running insulated ducting is going to help your heat and your noise.
Heat - Heat - Heat
Heat - Heat - Heat
Hi Folks,
Just my 10 cents worth;
I suffered a great deal with heat in my 'loftie' growroom and had to find some different solutions to deal with it. I've set up my light cooling fans to run in series, so one pulls cold air from outside the room and pushes it through the three air cooled reflectors. On the other side of the lights I have a 6" L1 SVK pulling the hot air from the lights and venting out to a chimney. I also relocated the three ballasts for the lights to a small shelf below the exhaust filter. The heat from these is now vented straight out before it affects the room temps as much. I have also invested in a free standing A/C unit which I also vent into the light cooling system via a 'y' piece, just prior to the 6" fan.
As for res cooling, I have always used a 'Nimby'. A small fan attatched to the side of your res, blowing air across the surface. This reduces res temp through transpiration, a neat, cost-effective little trick I picked up years ago on Overgrow, from the aforementioned gentleman.
With the warm weather fast approaching I'm hoping I've done enough to afford me some control of my room temps. I have also left some room for upgrades; The first fan in the series can be bigger & bigger input ducting will improve flow.
Stay safe & happy growing!
Heat - Heat - Heat
Hi Folks,
Just my 10 cents worth;
I suffered a great deal with heat in my 'loftie' growroom and had to find some different solutions to deal with it. I've set up my light cooling fans to run in series, so one pulls cold air from outside the room and pushes it through the three air cooled reflectors. On the other side of the lights I have a 6" L1 SVK pulling the hot air from the lights and venting out to a chimney. I also relocated the three ballasts for the lights to a small shelf below the exhaust filter. The heat from these is now vented straight out before it affects the room temps as much. I have also invested in a free standing A/C unit which I also vent into the light cooling system via a 'y' piece, just prior to the 6" fan.
As for res cooling, I have always used a 'Nimby'. A small fan attatched to the side of your res, blowing air across the surface. This reduces res temp through transpiration, a neat, cost-effective little trick I picked up years ago on Overgrow, from the aforementioned gentleman.
With the warm weather fast approaching I'm hoping I've done enough to afford me some control of my room temps. I have also left some room for upgrades; The first fan in the series can be bigger & bigger input ducting will improve flow.
Stay safe & happy growing!
Where are you pulling this information from? I am in the trades and have used these type of inline fans in many applications, including applications in attics where temps average above 140. I have never had a problem, and these fans last forever. I would love to see the cut sheet where you are pulling this information from.
Go to Centrifugal Fan mfgrs websites and you will find that they say the fans work best pulling rather than pushing. The hot air from the lamps is no where near hot enough to shorten fan life. They are made to be used in a myriad of ventilation applications including moving hot air.
If you can't run another fan or a bigger fan because of noise/neighbors, then it looks like you've got more lights than you can safely run. Keep the fan you've got and buy another to make 2 light cooling systems that are closed loop so there is no smell exhausting from them. Then you can have the AC cooling the room instead of being sucked out of the room. Go to the DIY Link-o-rama
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=40637 and you will find how you can make fan mufflers cheap. Good luck. -granger
If you can't run another fan or a bigger fan because of noise/neighbors, then it looks like you've got more lights than you can safely run. Keep the fan you've got and buy another to make 2 light cooling systems that are closed loop so there is no smell exhausting from them. Then you can have the AC cooling the room instead of being sucked out of the room. Go to the DIY Link-o-rama
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=40637 and you will find how you can make fan mufflers cheap. Good luck. -granger
Link is to a list of similar fans at Grainger. Most centrifugal fans on that list that are of metal construction list a max intake temp of 140 degrees. I wasn't able to find recommendations for max intake temp for growing fans, so I went with info from comparable fans from Grainger. For instance, here is a fan that is pretty close to my 6" Hydrofarm fan: link. It lists max intake at 140.
Wow, I use Fantech's all the time also. Thank you for pointing that out to me. You were definitely right on this one.......Not to say I haven't installed these fans in attics that are often hotter than the specs, and they still run 15 years later. But you were absolutely correct, I am sorry I doubted you. Thank you for setting my line of thinking strait. Much respect.
