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She said no, I was like....

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Jbonez

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3 lb bag of usp grade Epsom, ~4-5$ at the local pharmacy or grocery.

9.87% mg
12.98% s

Put 10 grams into a liter jug, fill with ro water.

Apply at 1mL/L to achieve ~10ppm elemental mg and ~13ppm elemental s.

This is something Id like to get into the habit of doing.. Making stock solutions... for better accuracy..

Great post, insightful!
 

Homebrewer

Active member
Veteran
I'm not sure where the numbers fall, but there are quite a few growers out in my neck of the woods that use Dyna-Gro Liquid Grow (7-9-5) from start to finish. I'm unsure of what additives they are adding during bloom, but they don't deal with the bloom formula of the dyna line at all - just grow.

This is what I've settled into along with thier protekt at 0-0-3. They also make a 9-3-6 which I'll be testing against their 7-9-5 in promix for the next few months. High P formulas like their bloom (3-12-6) have their place but are terrible in promix/coco/dirt, IME. This maxigrow experiment should be very interesting!
 
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DHF

Waaaay smarter mixologists in this thread than I can compare notes with , but.....

I ran GH 3 part inside for the better part of 20 yrs with absolutely no bloom boosters and dialed results once I figured out less is more with ppm`s......

Made a post couple hrs ago to the same effect and it disappeared , so I`m back after supper to show support and hope ya`ll find the perfect juice blend fer yer bitches......me ?.......

GH is based on a 3-2-1 veg formula and 1-2-3 bloom mix , and after my krusty bucket days , I cut that shit in 1/2 per Heath`s insight and direction and never looked back......till.....

I went full on coco and then Cal/Mag supplements were a mandatory addition to my juice blends , and I hadta adapt or perish.....but....I gotta say I have no clue about yall`s suggestions as to what to do as well as when , so.......

I`ll defer to the one`s getting dialed results and say hey.....if it works , it works.......

All I ever ran for additives was Botanicare`s Silicablast for stemwall strength with bigger plants originally , but never stopped usin it with increased plant numbers cuz the shit`s an extra potassium burst even though it raised ph slightly @ 5 ml per gal , and then......

SM-90 @ 5 ml per gal for rootzone protection way back in the day from root rot , but with coco to help innoculate the medium and not allow rootborn critters to hatch and proliferate......but...

No bloom boosters cuz NPK is NPK , and unless PGR`s are incorporated into the juice mix , that`s all bloom boosters are , just......elevated levels of concentrated NPK......anyways......

JBro .......Hope yas had Merry Ho-Ho and move on to the next level as budget and opportunity provides.......

Peace.....Freds.......:ying:......
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No, but now that you bring it up I will.. You know I got 2 empty pc monitors with google search bars right? lol...
thx again.. swing through OFTEN bro... yeah yeah.. I know...



Weve been duped!

Really actually not fucking around and am gonna run maxigro here extremely soon... like next week soon... I got two chemd's I can experiment on for side by sides for the group to sit in on and discover with me what the fuck is going on with the lies Ive been sold.... I dont really feel that way entirely but kinda ya know...

JB....been running Maxigrow (powered formula) I just mix it in my reservoir been doing real good for me. I'm no expert like most here...but I like cheap and it has everything I'm looking for, I just add some Cal-Mag, Silica, a bit of Maxicrop, folier feed with compost tea, Drip clean and then Maxi-BLoom/MOAB works for me!
 
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DaveTheNewbie

im loving this thread, im already well off the PK boost bandwagon running a perpetual with plain ole Maxibloom all the way thru (lucas formula) and ive never seen better.
after seeing what the peters guys do with 1-1-1 style formulas im keen to try that, and now the idea of just using maxigrow also appeals.

looking forward to your feedback on that one J
 

Tropical Rain

Haze, Kush & Grey Goose
Veteran
Nice thread I sat and read the whole thing on recommendation of DHF!
Cool build out. Give me ideas.

I've a couple questions for you JB, if you get the coco dialed why would you think to ever switch over to RDWC? (which is fast hydro i.e. aero = !!! )

why not automate the coco? Is everybody off the blumat bandwagon now? I've seen it not mentioned not once in this whole thread. We're back to talking drippers? I must have missed something since my summer hiatus!

Again nice thread, Going to keep my eyes on it.

:tiphat:
TR
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
The consensus on blumats from what I can tell, is works great with perfectly pressurized lines and no nutes, ie... Top fed soil.
Timed, multiple feeds FTW! Simple baby shit, etc...
 
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DaveTheNewbie

The consensus on blumats from what I can tell, is works great with perfectly pressurized lines and no nutes, ie... Top fed soil.
Timed, multiple feeds FTW! Simple baby shit, etc...

i have finally got the blumats working as advertised with maxibloom and a few goodies, the secret was slowing the drain rate of the coco by removing all the perlite.

most people didnt have the bloody mindedness i had and just threw them away after x many floods and dried pots and the like. They are finicky little bastards.
 
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DaveTheNewbie

Interesting with those npk values.. seems more of like what Im doing now, Id have to get the percentages, but Im trying to get away from using as little P as possible.. However, I believe that those numbers do reflect possibly a later bloom formula, not sure...

Im thinking like running Maxigrow through veg and into bloom for the stretch, then hit em with Maxibloom through the swell, and finally Flora bloom to finish with... This seams more reasonable if I want to run a higher P profile while also providing a bit of N...

Did that make sense? I have this language in my head that I try to translate into text for others viewing, but I can be incomprehensible at times.. I do smoke a lot of fire herb im told.. lol

instead of making your own formula from scratch (hard to do in small quantites to test your theory) try some of this :

Hi Cal Peat-Lite : http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Ja...sphate-Formulas/20-0-20-Hi-Cal-Peat-Lite.html

20-0-20

then add tiny amounts of P to find the sweet spot

Total Nitrogen (N)20%
- 0.34% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 10.79% Nitrate Nitrogen
- 8.87% Urea Nitrogen
Soluble Potash (K2O)20%
Calcium (Ca)6%
Boron (B)0.02%
Copper (Cu)0.01%
- 0.01% Chelated Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe)0.1%
- 0.1% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)0.05%
- 0.05% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo)0.01%
Zinc (Zn)0.05%

Still needs mag too
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
i have finally got the blumats working as advertised with maxibloom and a few goodies, the secret was slowing the drain rate of the coco by removing all the perlite.

most people didnt have the bloody mindedness i had and just threw them away after x many floods and dried pots and the like. They are finicky little bastards.

lol... Dave I agree that most people don't bother to take the time to learn how to make the blumats work... and they do work better with straight coco...

There are scientific studies proving that plants grow better in coco with 30% perlite... So do you accept diminished yields to use blumats, or do you change your feed system? hmmm....

Just my $0.02... and I don't have floods anymore.
 

Stonefree69

Veg & Flower Station keeper
Veteran
Personally I like a dialed BBVUCRDWC system (bare bulb vertical undercurrent recirculating deep water culture). Long name but still KISS/babyshit if you ask me. ;)
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
I used 20-20-20 @ 1 tablespoon per 5 gal. every watering, clone til flush, in promix with dialed results for a few years. Learned the formula from an old head that's been growing that way since the 80's. Probably not a perfect ratio, but the shit worked wonders for me. Just food for thought......
 
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DaveTheNewbie

lol... Dave I agree that most people don't bother to take the time to learn how to make the blumats work... and they do work better with straight coco...

There are scientific studies proving that plants grow better in coco with 30% perlite... So do you accept diminished yields to use blumats, or do you change your feed system? hmmm....

Just my $0.02... and I don't have floods anymore.

heh the only reason i am still using blumats is cause i paid for the bastards and bloodymindedness wont let me move on until i have them conquered. I am actively eyeing off PPKs to be honest.

and i started with perlite in my coco cause i know its better.

BUT are you really getting diminished returns? yes 30% perlite gives a small advantage, but blumats (in theory) keep a consistent water level in the medium also (in theory) leading to better returns than feeding once or twice (or whatever) a day in DTW.

I am of the opinion that coco is not the best medium to start with. It holds P, it causes ph to rise, it compresses, and it decomposes over time. One day im going back to stones of some sort (maybe DE) with recirc. This is why PPKs call to me.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
MisterD, out of curiosity, why did you switch from that if you were getting dialed results?

Intially because I moved over to organics. Now I use coco and just havn't played with 20-20-20 since. I have recently been toying with different amounts in the cannastats calculator and it looks like it could be used in coco without issue. However i'm a bit concerned with the amount of urea in all of the 20-20-20 formulas i've found.
 

unspoken

Member
Intially because I moved over to organics. Now I use coco and just havn't played with 20-20-20 since. I have recently been toying with different amounts in the cannastats calculator and it looks like it could be used in coco without issue. However i'm a bit concerned with the amount of urea in all of the 20-20-20 formulas i've found.

That's cool. I have been using h3ad formula in coco for years now. I used to use liquid karma with it, and I have since stopped. Now that I have had enough time to evaluate, I feel like I had no signs of any nute problems when running liquid karma, but now that I've stopped I've noticed some Mg def and other little things. I don't know if they are related or if it's just my water quality. It has gotten a little harder over the years. Either way I'm thinking about moving on from the h3ad formula.
 
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