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16kw RDWC tree grow

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
1. I have grown in 20gal brutes in a 8' ceiling, but totes are a lower profile and probably better.

2. When my trees are bit they are 5' from the top of the net pot, if you have taller ceiling you may get them bigger.

3. Strain specific, however Co2 will not hurt your plants so dial it in as you go.

4. Lights off you should get your babies to 68* if possible. The love cool temps and the O2 level in the water is best at 68*. I notice most of my growth / strech occurs overnight, so cool temps are important (or rather I get my best trees when I have cool nights).

5. Horz works great, I've run both types of gardens.

6. The goal of vert tree growing is to have 2 - 4 lights hitting each plant. A corner light only benefits the one plant in the corner. Some use a 600w or smaller for corner lights, others skip them all together.

7. 120sq' should be enough for 8 plants, that is 15sq' per. As for the res it should not take up much room because it will probably be just an empty brute or tote. Set it inline with the other 8 zones and party on. Since you will have 8 huge containers and a res, the PH should be stable and you should be able to skip a day between refills.

8. He had nice huge 3" pipes if I am not mistaken. He gave a link to the bulk heads he uses and I advised a google search on Uniseals. That is what the UC systems use. As for pumps and calculations someone else will have to chime in.

9. I would think air lines inside drain pipes would be a big pain in the ass.

10. Opinions vary, however you need to make sure that you don't drown your plant. The stem and top part of the roots need at least 12hrs a day dry IMO.

11. I swear by 10" and hate on all others for growing trees. Trees need huge stalks and huge root masses, I find that the 10" allows the tree to make a really strong stalk and huge root ball in the hydroton, this really adds stability to the plant.

12. I personally like to stay around 800, but PPM is always strain and grower specific.

13. I've never considered the amount of liquid down the drain "a lot". I am on a sewer system and just pump it into the toilet and it goes away. People drain bath tubs all the time. I personally only change the nutes once during flower (at around day 21 after I have PK boostered them appx day 16). Then I use those same nutes for the next 3 -4 weeks. I top off with my nute mix (appx 800PPM) and PH the system daily if needed.


Hopefully the OP will have some time to look this over and give suggestions. His grow is one of the best around for trees. Long live the forest!

:joint:
Good stuff! Thanks!
 
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Guest 18340

I don't how I missed this thread but goddamn, you sir are on top of your game! I am THOROUGHLY impressed, much respect:respect:
 

inreplyavalon

breathe deep
Veteran
I said it once and i'll say it again! Freaking YEAH!

Can you explain how you exchange the air between the two rooms, and why?
What do you use to light proof the vents so the dark stays dark? I am guessing that its a circle so the dark room air/humidity is being exchanged for the warmer/dryer air of the LIT room.

Help a brother out i am trying to design a similar setup. Thanks Getto, impressive as usual!
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
I also was wondering how you got your 3" pipe to seal in the brutes? I just put the 3" in 8 5 gallon buckets using uniseals, they leaked and still leak a little after using silicone. Maybe square buckets are the way to go with the uniseals? Im not sure. It looks like your not using uniseals though. Thanks
 

gettogro

Active member
Veteran
I said it once and i'll say it again! Freaking YEAH!

Can you explain how you exchange the air between the two rooms, and why?
What do you use to light proof the vents so the dark stays dark? I am guessing that its a circle so the dark room air/humidity is being exchanged for the warmer/dryer air of the LIT room.

Help a brother out i am trying to design a similar setup. Thanks Getto, impressive as usual!


If you look at the pics on the first page you can see there is a 8" can filter with a fan blowing from 1 room to the other, I have them on a dimmer speed controler. I am about to add 2 more fans and ducting on the roof as well to help pull even more heat from the lights on room.


I am going to quit growing. It's all your fault.:)

Please no, we are fighting terrorism by keeping the $ in the US.

I also was wondering how you got your 3" pipe to seal in the brutes? I just put the 3" in 8 5 gallon buckets using uniseals, they leaked and still leak a little after using silicone. Maybe square buckets are the way to go with the uniseals? Im not sure. It looks like your not using uniseals though. Thanks
Diy bulkheads for the brutes (uniseals do not work on round surfaces, The totes work great with the uniseals)



This show was piss poor IMO, I way overshot my veg time, plants grew into each other choked out the lights, broken branches. huge undergrowth. I had to chuck tons of underdeveloped heat stressed buds. A complete shitshow.

That said I managed to squeeze out 9.7 from the tote side and 8.2 from the brutes.

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Here you can see the some of the damage when they grow in to eachother

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This g13 I came across looks like it turned out to be a winner, I hit 2.4 with this plant. I have 4 of them kicking in the brute room this run. And 15 cloning now for a Jan1 chop
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gettogro

Active member
Veteran
The top feed lines do not go into the hydroton, they just go in the top side of the brutes/totes. I use them to mix the nutes I add straight to the "epicenter". They even out much faster than just a UC style only.

I have ran them in the hydroton in the past and it keeps the stem too wet and at harvest it just pulls right out of the net pot. The stems are much stronger when kept dry IMO.

I allways use the 10" netpots for trees
 

inreplyavalon

breathe deep
Veteran
So you have the 8" fans on a speed controller. Are you running the between room fans 24 hours a day?

Also you mentioned you are adding another fan to go out the roof to help deal with the heat. Are you going to exhaust that fan into the dark room as well, or are you exhausting that outside and adding an intake? Trying to understand what will happen if i transfer the air between my two rooms that are going to be on a flip flop. Please explain a bit. In theory it should reduce the heat in the hot room and reduce the humidity in the dark room. Has this been your experience?
Thanks in advance!
 

gettogro

Active member
Veteran
So you have the 8" fans on a speed controller. Are you running the between room fans 24 hours a day?

Also you mentioned you are adding another fan to go out the roof to help deal with the heat. Are you going to exhaust that fan into the dark room as well, or are you exhausting that outside and adding an intake? Trying to understand what will happen if i transfer the air between my two rooms that are going to be on a flip flop. Please explain a bit. In theory it should reduce the heat in the hot room and reduce the humidity in the dark room. Has this been your experience?
Thanks in advance!


Yep 24/7, the speed controler helps in maintaining day/night temps. Helps reduce humidity and keeping closer day/night temps is supposed to decrease stretch. I was thinking of adding 2 more fans to exchange the air from the ceilings to help cool the lights on room more, but summer is pretty much over here so I might just skip it.

I still have a lot to learn with this system, My new run looks like I got a 2 week stall. I got a touch of the Hydro Herpes first couple days after the transplant, I got it all cleaned up, but the plants have to regrow thier roots now. It take about 2 weeks to recover. It sucks because I allready flipped them before the herpes showed up. It is much easier to make a full recovery when they are still in Veg. Oh well live and learn I guess.

I invented the internet

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