The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[nomaad]

I'll take all your 300's if you're not doing anything with em next year .

I have suffered one branch dying off... probably fusarium. We gave em about 30grams of old Mycostop last week and as soon as the most recent order arrives, I will be hitting them with 50 grams in 500 gallons of irrigation water thru the drip system. The following watering will contain a strong dose of Rootshield as well.

What is companion? I remember talking about this last year...

Thanks for the music link yesterday, TG. Good stuff.

 

[Trinity Gold]

Here's a link to Companion it's a bacillus subtilis isolate...They call it "GB03"..had really good success with it in the past.

http://www.growthproducts.com/pages/horticulture.asp?tables=featured&product=10

When I turn my lights off I will hit them with more MycoStop and Companion.

I'm going to be an ass hole and cut the sides of the 300s off and have the new container built around the old one then till the soil and add new soil to fill the other 450 gallons. Sorry. I would totally give them to you if you shoveled the soil out though...

Prefer to plant the weed before ya go buss ya gun!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dxo2u1y8N1w

 

[schoolhouserock]

Nomaad & TG, are you guys like indirectly answering me? What are signs of fusarium? I would think a form of mold would make the stem extra soft, where as mine are pretty hard. I've never used micronized inoculants but I have a few samples of Green Gro Mycorrhizae around -- could this be the type of thing that would help? I greatly appreciate your expertise.

Yours from the Rock

 

[Trinity Gold]

Schoolhouserock

Check in to MycoStop and Companion and RootShield..All these products eat the common root pathogens that attack cannabis. a branch essentially "drying out" and popping off almost like a cork is a sign of root disease for sure, especially if you noticed a brown ring around the joint of the branch upon autopsy...

Sorry bro I do not read every post before the one I'm about to make. I just was a little frustrated about having to start laying down more MycoStop in the summer and wanted to know where other people were at in the delicate balancing act of keeping these large marges healthy..

I originally planned to use mycostop 25 grams per week on all my gardens but then decided if I over use the cure then it may not work when I need it so I did one application and have held off till now from May 11th...Not a bad run. I will for sure beef them up before bloom make sure they stay healthy the whole time.

Nomaad

If you deal with the soil then you can have the 300s, otherwise I'm just going to cut them up.

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I think it's Oldhaole that uses a shovel for reference...well...

 

[nomaad]

I bought a 100 gram pack of Mycostop with the intention of using it weekly at 25g... Only toi find out that it was being administered at a much much lower rate. I had not thought about the possibility that overuse would lower effectiveness. Good thinking, farmer. Next year, I will bomb them on transplant and again 3 weeks later. That should handle it.

schoolhouse: MY understanding is that when a branch just dies off, its fusarium... when a plant starts slowing down compared to its clone siblings and then just stops drinking and large parts of the plant or the whole plant just kind of die before your eyes, that's pythium. You might be able to turn pythium around if you notice it during the slow-down phase, but once it stops drinking, its a done deal. no amount of Mycostop is going to turn it around. Dead in 4 or 5 days... On the other hand, I have had branches die off in the manner described by TG (which I believe to be fusarium) since my first season and never lost the plant it happened on.

Plenty of images on my 2010 OD thread around this time of year. Lost one big flowering plant in the black box almost exactly this time of year and then one 12 foot tall plant about a month later. I beleieve that pythium was the culprit in both cases. Use the search feature and at the very least, you can filter it down to my only my posts and a date range.

 

[nomaad]

oh... you should also check for a slimy ring at the base of the plant, just above and beneath the soil layer... that sliminess would indicate pythium. it has been present in all my losses. If you detect this symptom early, before the plant stops drinking, you may be able to turn the problem around with Mycostop.

 

[nomaad]

Lots of shops that had nothing biological in stock last year are carrying Actinovate, which is a streptomyces bacteria other than the one found in Mycostop. Still not sold on this stuff TG?

 

[oldhaole]

Nomaad
.

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I think it's Oldhaole that uses a shovel for reference...well...

I use a shovel for reference...you use a tree?

You win.

OH

 

[schoolhouserock]

TG & Nomaad -- Thanks so much for a quick response. There's no slim or gunk around the base of the stem, so hopefully that rules out pythium. (Tho I won't forget about it...) After talking to a neighbor, he said the same as you, N, that he's always lost a couple lower branches to fusarium yet never a whole girl. Will look into the different micronutrients available & then post actions & results.

 

[organic P]

So today I started to fight root disease..

If memory serves you took precautions of solarizing and treating your soil before re-amending. Do you think a different strategy needs to be employed for next year?

 

[Trinity Gold]

Just tried to post a video link to the huge farm they busted in Mexico..Now they're growing a LOT of plants out door..

 

[Chewbacca]

Not as large as yours, but my largest outdoor yet...

 

[Yes4Prop215]

mine are only about 3-4 ft tall but at least they are wide and bushy...we have been training them down because we dont want the neighbors to see them poking over the fence..

here is my biggest plant LVPK....this is my first time doing bigger outdoor plants and even though shes dwarfed by some of you pros on here..im still fuckin impressed by this giant mama!!

my 2nd largest Cherry Pie (GDPxDurban)XOG

some of the others arent as big though....but still an upgrade from what we did last year..

 

[Dr. Purpur]

mine are only about 3-4 ft tall but at least they are wide and bushy...we have been training them down because we dont want the neighbors to see them poking over the fence..

here is my biggest plant LVPK....this is my first time doing bigger outdoor plants and even though shes dwarfed by some of you pros on here..im still fuckin impressed by this giant mama!!

my 2nd largest Cherry Pie (GDPxDurban)XOG

some of the others arent as big though....but still an upgrade from what we did last year..

Hey, good job there Bro!

 

[FillthePotmore]

Sunset Garden 2011 update

Sunset Garden 2011 update

 

[BEC]

excellent spots

 

[swayzie]

great photos everyone..

one thing ive always wondered is why its not popular to really train outdoor plants? most outdoor cannabis growers just let them bush out.. at most they will remove the inside growth but still keep a bush style plant.. whats the reasoning behind not training them?

u could set up a flat screen and train them SCROG style.. cutting off everything under the screens and just grow solid tops.. which dramatically increases the amount of useable/sellable product. why not use indoor training methods outdoors to increase yields and reduce larf is basically my question.. i see big bushes i cant help but think of all the larf.

and just for the record, im simply asking a question because im ignorant on the subject. im not trying to start shit.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Oh You Rascal!

Oh You Rascal!

These plants are amazing!

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

great photos everyone..

one thing ive always wondered is why its not popular to really train outdoor plants? most outdoor cannabis growers just let them bush out.. at most they will remove the inside growth but still keep a bush style plant.. whats the reasoning behind not training them?

u could set up a flat screen and train them SCROG style.. cutting off everything under the screens and just grow solid tops.. which dramatically increases the amount of useable/sellable product. why not use indoor training methods outdoors to increase yields and reduce larf is basically my question.. i see big bushes i cant help but think of all the larf.

and just for the record, im simply asking a question because im ignorant on the subject. im not trying to start shit.

I think you are spot on, personally IMO you can double yield by training, looking into some pruning too, take off the weaker popcorn branches in poor light.

A trained plant will not grow an "impressive" fat top cola, but it will grow a lot of half size colas that will weigh more, are far less likely to rot, get snapped off by wind, be seen by LEO, Rippers, you also have a much lower plant that is easier to cover with plastic against rain, or blackout for Light Dep. The screen/trellis/training can make a real time consuming, noisy, inconvenient deterrent for rippers.

A Local I got doing this last year is totally convinced, it is basically exactly the same thing you do with Orange and Olive trees, my 500 year old Olive is 7ft high, 30ft across.

 

[Slangheat]

I think you are spot on, personally IMO you can double yield by training, looking into some pruning too, take off the weaker popcorn branches in poor light.

A trained plant will not grow an "impressive" fat top cola, but it will grow a lot of half size colas that will weigh more, are far less likely to rot, get snapped off by wind, be seen by LEO, Rippers, you also have a much lower plant that is easier to cover with plastic against rain, or blackout for Light Dep. The screen/trellis/training can make a real time consuming, noisy, inconvenient deterrent for rippers.

A Local I got doing this last year is totally convinced, it is basically exactly the same thing you do with Orange and Olive trees, my 500 year old Olive is 7ft high, 30ft across.

I think these are some good points - but some things to consider...

Genetics are such a huge role in what you are going to do outdoors, and the problem I've noticed is that so many people underestimate and go with what their 'bro' said was going to put out 'fire' for them that season... without actually considering that strains potential... much less putting together a solid game plan about what strain will do what, compared to what the grower themselves are looking for.

Tom Hill in this very thread has driven a point home for me about broad vs narrow leafed plants and the structure they'll take on, as well as the amount of sun exposure they'll get to the inner (bushy) parts of the plant. There are plenty of strains that without training, will allow the sun to get to the inner-most parts of the plant... I've got a 12 ft tall bush right now that hardly shades itself on the inner parts at all... it's really a beautiful sight to behold; compared to another strain which is about 5 feet and so thick in the canopy that larf will definitely be increased...

You'll notice that many here actually do trellis/support very heavily, as it'd be hard to grow these monsters without that support.

Learn your strains well enough and you will basically be in a mode with them that they will tell you what sort of training etc they require.... but keep in mind things like sun exposure, airflow, plant structure, and stem strength/thickness are what should determine how your plant is trained/grown. It is counterproductive to attempt to force more budsites on your plant, if all you're doing is creating thinner, less strong/lignent branching at the top of the plant that will not be able to support itself during mid/late flower.

I'd also like to add that I've found some strains to yield significantly less when I've messed with them to much... be it supercropping, topping, tying etc.. so another thing I might add is to not try to do too much in one training session - allow your plant to build its tolerance to the stress you're giving it and increase things at a decent pace as you go.