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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Eatatjoes

are you running off of a well? If the pump isn't very strong it might not be able to keep up with the flow of a 1". I'm not certain though.
 
got a drip question my drip is 1” mainline down to 1/2” emitter tubing that has 4 300° sprayers installed. each circuit has 10 plants on it and im using 25 psi pressure regulators. my problem is my pressure is fluctuating everything will be spraying well for a minute then the pressure drops and after another quick minute the pressure comes back. why is it fluctuating like that? should i get higher psi pressure regulators? any advice is appreciated thanks.

If you can live with the fluctuations, and augment how long you are leaving system on to compensate for the lower pressure times (like 1.75 hrs instead of 1.0 hours), shouldnt be too hard to cope with right? Coping and adjusting sounds easier than replacing everything some how. Typically you do not want the pressure regulator to be rated any higher than the highest the emitters is rated to accept (USUALLY 25 psi)

This also happens to me, but to an acceptable degree. For me it is my well pump cycling. When the pressurised bladder is pumping the water the pressure is lower than when the actual well pump is pumping.

If well is the case, not much you can do but replace with a higher pressure bladder tank, a stronger pump, or both. I need a new tank. By the Way, the tanks exist so the pump does not have to work as hard or run constantly when there is water on.

Manitoid(s Ghost)
 

CanniDo Cowboy

Member
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If you can live with the fluctuations, and augment how long you are leaving system on to compensate for the lower pressure times (like 1.75 hrs instead of 1.0 hours), shouldnt be too hard to cope with right? Coping and adjusting sounds easier than replacing everything some how. Typically you do not want the pressure regulator to be rated any higher than the highest the emitters is rated to accept (USUALLY 25 psi)

This also happens to me, but to an acceptable degree. For me it is my well pump cycling. When the pressurised bladder is pumping the water the pressure is lower than when the actual well pump is pumping.

If well is the case, not much you can do but replace with a higher pressure bladder tank, a stronger pump, or both. I need a new tank. By the Way, the tanks exist so the pump does not have to work as hard or run constantly when there is water on.

Manitoid(s Ghost)

Alrighty then... Domestic Well Pump/irrigation 101...As a long time well owner/ garden irrigationer, here's what I know:

Water is pumped from the ground by means of a well pump/jet, into a bladder tank where it is pressurized (55psi average) and then proceeds on into your house. Utilizing a larger pressure tank or increasing the existing bladder tank pressure to avoid "drop-off" pressure ISNT a good idea simply because increasing the water pressure can and most likely will cause leaking problems in the house plumbing system, especially if the piping is in an older house. Fixtures such as toilets and faucets, which were normally fine with a water feed pressure of 55 psi or so, could begin blowing older rubber seals at 65 psi, the same with older soldered copper joints.

Regardless of the size of a bladder tank or trying to increase water pressure of an existing tank, with only the well pump and a bladder tank, pressure "drop-off is going to happen. In a larger bladder tank the drop off wont happen as soon but it will still happen. Here's why: Inside the bladder tank is a suspended rubber bag filled with air (appx 15 to 20 lbs air). It looks somewhat like a hot water bottle. As the well pump pumps water into the bladder tank, it compresses the air bag and that's where you get your line pressure. As you use the pressurized water in the house or garden etc., the water in the bladder tank decreases, which in turn reduces the pressure against the internal air bag which then decreases the over all water pressure. The reason why is because it is almost impossible for the well pump to maintain a constant and full water amount in the bladder tank, when it's leaving at a faster rate ie: showers, dishwasher use, washing your car etc. and worst of all- irrigation...

So, the only way to avoid the pressure drop-off blues is to install a holding tank and utilize a separate on-demand pump system similar to the system used in RV's. Turn on the faucet, the pump comes on. Turn off the faucet, the pump goes off. The well pump, instead of pumping water directly to the bladder tank, now pumps water into the holding tank (1000 to 2500 gal). From there, it still goes into the bladder tank, is pressurized and goes to the house, same as before. The on-demand pump is also attached at the holding tank but pumps water straight to the irrigation location. The reduced or fluctuating pressure (from the bladder tank) problem is circumvented and avoided. All you need to know then, is how large of a on-demand/auxillary pump will be required to meet your irrigation demands...Hope this helps...CC

Note: If you are relying on a well as your water source, it's a good idea to have a holding tank anyway. Especially if the well is supplying both house and garden. If you lose your electricity for whatever reason, which has happened to me numerous times during the summer, you still have whatever is in the holding tank as a reserve until power is restored. A back up generator is also a good idea, and while the generator may not be big enough to kick over the usually 220volt well pump, it will operate the on-demand pump just fine. You may not be able to take a shower or wash dishes, but your crops wont be in peril...
 
Utilizing a larger pressure tank or increasing the existing bladder tank pressure to avoid "drop-off" pressure ISNT a good idea simply because increasing the water pressure can and most likely will cause leaking problems in the house plumbing system, especially if the piping is in an older house.

just chiming in to say that in most locales in the US, a pressure Regulator is required in the house to meet code. This should be preventing all the problems with copper and toilets you are talking about.

I like your idea of a large holding tank!
 

GreenHands13

Active member
If you can live with the fluctuations, and augment how long you are leaving system on to compensate for the lower pressure times (like 1.75 hrs instead of 1.0 hours), shouldnt be too hard to cope with right? Coping and adjusting sounds easier than replacing everything some how. Typically you do not want the pressure regulator to be rated any higher than the highest the emitters is rated to accept (USUALLY 25 psi)

This also happens to me, but to an acceptable degree. For me it is my well pump cycling. When the pressurised bladder is pumping the water the pressure is lower than when the actual well pump is pumping.

If well is the case, not much you can do but replace with a higher pressure bladder tank, a stronger pump, or both. I need a new tank. By the Way, the tanks exist so the pump does not have to work as hard or run constantly when there is water on.

Manitoid(s Ghost)

thank you very much mg and cc for the detailed answers guys. and i can live with the fluctuations there not bad. big ups to both of you and wish you both a very bountiful summer.
 

CanniDo Cowboy

Member
Veteran
just chiming in to say that in most locales in the US, a pressure Regulator is required in the house to meet code. This should be preventing all the problems with copper and toilets you are talking about.

I like your idea of a large holding tank!

LOL...Dude, my house barely had a roof on it let alone a pressure reg! lol Code? What is that? lol Well-supplied water pressure to a house rarely exceeds 55psi simply because most bladders are designed to operate around 55psi and because it does fluctuate so much, a reg at the house would almost be pointless. Seriously, all I'm saying is basically the pump system is designed and set up for house use and normal outdoor watering chores where fluctuating pressure isnt critical. Trying to maintain exact and steady regulated flows from the same house-type setup for a drip irrigation method can drive ya crazy...It did me! And bigger pressure tanks or crankin up the PSI's can lead to other problems...honest injun...lol

Yea, the tank saved my ass several times. One season I lost power for 3 days due to a nearby forest fire, the other when a drunk driver took out my power pole and PG&E had a power pole shortage so I was without power for 4 days waitin on a dumb-ass pole...lol Of course, the possibility of the well pump giving up the proverbial Maintoids Ghost is the another real threat. A reserve tank is a good idea for any thing the grow Gods may throw at ya because without water, yer plants are cooked and yer fooked. lol Remember, we all know the grow-Gods have a semi-suck sense of humor but at any given time, they can also be down right majorly cruel.....CC
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
The drippers i use deliver the same amount of water regardless of pressure fluctuations within its range... I think its like 10-60 psi or somesuch. i have a 20psi regulator before my dosers and drip system.

I am on a well pump with a bladder, before the house or any other spigots. The pressure at the bladder is usually 45-50 psi... assuming the gauge read accurately.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
im thinking about hitting my plants with some fox farms grow big or some other nitrogen dominant nutes to help keep my ladies in veg......anything else special you guys recommend using?
 
T

Trinity Gold

7/14/2011 ...

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Just need to weed whack one more time...
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Excellent, bro. Everything looks great. Our nights have been cold enough to cause a bad case of "the claw". The weatherSeems like they come out of it mostly when the sun comes up... i'd say that recovery has ranged from 70-95% by late afternoon... we'll see how it goes today.

My worry is that the cooler weather (won;t be back into the 80s till monday) will make the plants think that Autumn is here and force them into flower early. THis would be a sucky way to go down. I might put the supplemental lighting back into place...
 
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GreenHands13

Active member
Excellent, bro. Everything looks great. Our nights have been cold enough to cause a bad case of "the claw". The weatherSeems like they come out of it mostly when the sun comes up... i'd say that recovery has ranged from 70-95% by late afternoon... we'll see how it goes today.

My worry is that the cooler weather (won;t be back into the 80s till monday) will make the plants think that Autumn is here and force them into flower early. THis would be a sucky way to go down. I might put the supplemental lighting back into place...

my plants recently started doing this at the very tops. i thought it might be cause its been cold but wast sure are you sure this is the reason? its been really cold at my house at night im at 4300 feet in lassen county.
 
I think even though it worked okay for me I was under watering last year... How often are the pro, you all nomad, tom, butte, etc. watering? If i was watering when the plants asked it would be less than once a week. Big holes, in ground, big plants straw as mulch, irrigated... Ive only put tea on the roots once, as I think I am set up amended to mostly just water until flower...

are you guys giving them small drinks every day or every other... or are you drenching once a week? are you waiting until they almost ask like i did last year?

I know there are many variables, just wanting to hear what everyone does... because Im wondering, and think i want to water more than last year to be more optimal...

Thought?

Thanks,

Manitoid

Edit, example sized plant, taken 7/12:
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The highs can get up to the 90s in the greenhouse, but the ventilation is two 30,000 ish cfm fans, so it doesnt get hotter.

I have exceeded my knowledge base personally on watering these... These are today (7/14) the size of my finished plants last year (10/10)... oops :dance013::dance013::dance013:
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
I drench hevilly once a week with mild fert water. I think most of the guys are using emiters, or drench hose. I open up 2 hoses (1"id) and flood the area real good
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
my plants recently started doing this at the very tops. i thought it might be cause its been cold but wast sure are you sure this is the reason? its been really cold at my house at night im at 4300 feet in lassen county.

cold and overwatering.
 
i turned off supplemental lighting on june 25th and now i have some major pre flowers forming on all my plants.kinda sketched its a little early.
 

schoolhouserock

New member
Hi guys. Long time reader, first time poster. I'm growing some Sour D for the first time in large outdoor pots. Just in the last day some of the largest lower branches have been 'popping' out of the stem, like the branches were too heavy or something. But they're not even that huge yet. Also, upon inspection of the end of the branch, the knob that used to junction the branch to the stem is rather hard. There doesn't seem to be any excess of bugs or critters around. Could this be a calcium deficiency? (If so, suggestions for supplying them w/ more calcium? Last year my partner used lots of bone meal when turning the holes but this year I was talked out of using so much...) Any other ideas? Thanks so much.
 
G

guest8905

everybody is looking great! looks like another nice year of awesome outdoor herbs!!
 
T

Trinity Gold

So today I started to fight root disease. I can see some signs of it maybe starting but I haven't had any branches drop so I applied 25 grams of MycoStop and 1 gallon of Companion through my drip system [through about 1000 gallons]. I'm going to follow it through with some more fresh water to make sure it really gets in there good as well. What is every one else doing to keep their roots healthy? I know next year I will be going to a 8' diameter 2' deep breathing container so I do not run out of soil like this year...that alone should help a ton. My additions to the farm that are in the ground are just ripping it.
 
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