it helps if you replace perlite with something that provides a little more habitat. and if zeolite is in the mix you can put a pretty hefty charge into your soil.
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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
it helps if you replace perlite with something that provides a little more habitat. and if zeolite is in the mix you can put a pretty hefty charge into your soil.
BorkBorkBork
Member
Nope, they're all on blumats, so there's no wet/dry cycle.
It will be interesting to see the rootball after harvest anyways (which is this weekend).
That does bring up an interesting point...the two greener girls also lived under 6500k lighting for the first 30 days of flower.
Good stuff.
I upgraded from 250->600 mid-flower, and I may have run the new light a bit close for comfort.
So I got the LC10+7 and I was wondering if anyone had experience using this in recipe 3? IT has more stuff in it then regular humic acid and I read somewhere else that its better not to mix the lc10+7 in the tea but would I use this in replacement of regular humic and just bubble 1 tbs per gallon with my teas or would i feed it only once a week or so and skip the humic in the teas? Thanks in advance 
I'm looking at trying http://www.groworganic.com/rice-hulls-50-lb-bag.html in the future in place of perlite.
So I got the LC10+7 and I was wondering if anyone had experience using this in recipe 3? IT has more stuff in it then regular humic acid and I read somewhere else that its better not to mix the lc10+7 in the tea but would I use this in replacement of regular humic and just bubble 1 tbs per gallon with my teas or would i feed it only once a week or so and skip the humic in the teas? Thanks in advance
I use it as a foliar - no bubbling, just add to water and spray the leaves about once per week.
So that would obviously replace the need for regular humic acid in the tea right?
Sorry, re-read your message where you were talking about recipe 3. I've never used that recipe. I assume that if the plants are getting what they need from the foliar, there'd be no need to add it to the soil.
So I got the LC10+7 and I was wondering if anyone had experience using this in recipe 3? IT has more stuff in it then regular humic acid and I read somewhere else that its better not to mix the lc10+7 in the tea but would I use this in replacement of regular humic and just bubble 1 tbs per gallon with my teas or would i feed it only once a week or so and skip the humic in the teas? Thanks in advance
dilute and apply to either the soil or foliar. no need to add it to ACT unless its specifically in VERY dilute amounts for the biology alone.
3
3gunpete
hello fellow enthusists!
I am making the leap to coco and would like to keep it organic if possible. I am under the assumption that it can be done assuming that i introduce micro life to break down the og nutes into usable components for the plant to use.
I have used a product for soil in the past called EA(earth ambrosia) and EN(earth nectar) it is a 2 part liquid inoculant of many types of micro life and miccorahzae designed to do just that.
I'm hoping to limit mixing my coco with anything but perlite or rice hulls and top feed with full spectrum omri listed nutes using the EA and EN as a catalyst of sorts.
Any insight as to how effective this would be would be greatly appreciated.
I am making the leap to coco and would like to keep it organic if possible. I am under the assumption that it can be done assuming that i introduce micro life to break down the og nutes into usable components for the plant to use.
I have used a product for soil in the past called EA(earth ambrosia) and EN(earth nectar) it is a 2 part liquid inoculant of many types of micro life and miccorahzae designed to do just that.
I'm hoping to limit mixing my coco with anything but perlite or rice hulls and top feed with full spectrum omri listed nutes using the EA and EN as a catalyst of sorts.
Any insight as to how effective this would be would be greatly appreciated.
M
mugenbao
Since this thread is in the Organic Soil forum, it seems likely to me that you'd do better getting the answers you're looking for in the Growing in Coco Coir forum. I know I've seen several threads on growing organically in coco, though I have to admit that I don't have any links handy.
I'm interested in coco, but not at all familiar with it, so don't really have any answers for ya. Best of luck
3
3gunpete
Since this thread is in the Organic Soil forum, it seems likely to me that you'd do better getting the answers you're looking for in the Growing in Coco Coir forum. I know I've seen several threads on growing organically in coco, though I have to admit that I don't have any links handy.
I'm interested in coco, but not at all familiar with it, so don't really have any answers for ya. Best of luck
My bad on that one. Just figured organic is organic and some of yall might be running coco. Haven't found any organic coco forum yet. Thanx tho.
laughingmoon
Active member
How do I avoid mold growing on my LC Soilless Mix 1 while it's cooking in a rubbermaid bin. I'm supposed to keep it moist, but the last time I did, white mold formed wherever it was dark.
Organics for Beginners
white mold - no problem
white mold - no problem
laughingmoon
Active member
Just stir it in, no biggie?
OPT
Member
Do you have the lid on the bin?
Maybe your getting it a little too moist, and I always made sure to turn it as often as I could, like once a day, never had an issue.
OPT
OPT
I could be completely wrong but I've always thought of the white strands as a positive sign that there was some degree of microbe-activity in the soil.
That was what I thought anyway - it was/is my understanding that the color of the strands is the thing to watch and monitor. In a completely unrelated area aside from soil mixing/processing, the pink and red growths in a water and rye flour paste is an indication that it needs to be tossed. It didn't work whereas a white mold is a positive sign.
Again - completely unrelated to soil microbes. Just an observation.
CC
I could be completely wrong but I've always thought of the white strands as a positive sign that there was some degree of microbe-activity in the soil.
That was what I thought anyway - it was/is my understanding that the color of the strands is the thing to watch and monitor. In a completely unrelated area aside from soil mixing/processing, the pink and red growths in a water and rye flour paste is an indication that it needs to be tossed. It didn't work whereas a white mold is a positive sign.
Again - completely unrelated to soil microbes. Just an observation.
CC
