Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[HempKat]

Ah thanks HempKat, good detailed answer. So if I understand correctly, you should AT LEAST wait til theres all\almost all cloudy trichs. And if you want the body toast then wait longer till some of the cloudies turn amber.

Yeah pretty much.

 

[MagicChef]

Thanks for the replies, HK I let it dry out farely well, but do think I tend to overwater occasionally. I dont let it dry all the way out, just top 2-3 inches of soil from a 2 gallon pot. Do you think that coud be it? Maybe I'm mis-diagnosing it as rust. Ill try to find some pics of some leafs in all stages, and a good description of its effects. cheers.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for the replies, HK I let it dry out farely well, but do think I tend to overwater occasionally. I dont let it dry all the way out, just top 2-3 inches of soil from a 2 gallon pot. Do you think that coud be it? Maybe I'm mis-diagnosing it as rust. Ill try to find some pics of some leafs in all stages, and a good description of its effects. cheers.

It could be, but it's hard to say for sure. If everything below the top 2-3 inches is staying wet though that does create an environment where root disease can take hold.

 

[ericcalif]

Yeah pretty much.

So I'm curious HK, have you come up with an accurate, easy way to examine trichs? I've got a big 'old school' (read: sherlock holmes) glass, a small quality jewelers loupe, and one of those oft-touted radio shack cheapy microscopes. The big glass is good for looking at growth and general trich coverage, but not strong enough. The loupe is a bit better but damn if i can get a good detailed view. As a near old fart myself, my hand isn't as steady as back in the day, the flowers bouncing about, etc. The microscope gives a great view but only if i snip off a little bit and place everything on a flat surface.

Looking at trichs for years, I bet you have a easy way to get a better overall view of trich ripeness.

 

[HempKat]

So I'm curious HK, have you come up with an accurate, easy way to examine trichs? I've got a big 'old school' (read: sherlock holmes) glass, a small quality jewelers loupe, and one of those oft-touted radio shack cheapy microscopes. The big glass is good for looking at growth and general trich coverage, but not strong enough. The loupe is a bit better but damn if i can get a good detailed view. As a near old fart myself, my hand isn't as steady as back in the day, the flowers bouncing about, etc. The microscope gives a great view but only if i snip off a little bit and place everything on a flat surface.

Looking at trichs for years, I bet you have a easy way to get a better overall view of trich ripeness.

Yeah a good digital camera that takes good macros. Also when I say good that's not even by todays terms. Today the average camera is 10 megapixels or more but you can get a good enough view with a 4 megapixel camera.

The above picture was taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4800 4.1 megapixel digital camera.

 

[ericcalif]

Yeah a good digital camera that takes good macros. Also when I say good that's not even by todays terms. Today the average camera is 10 megapixels or more but you can get a good enough view with a 4 megapixel camera.


The above picture was taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4800 4.1 megapixel digital camera.

Thats an awesome shot, I have a Kodak thats better than a point and shoot, but it's never done good taking macros. Though I should say I've never tried on buds. I'll give 'er a try tomorrow.

BTW, if it was my call I'd say your example was nearly 90% clear, needing a lil more time. Concur?

 

[HempKat]

Thats an awesome shot, I have a Kodak thats better than a point and shoot, but it's never done good taking macros. Though I should say I've never tried on buds. I'll give 'er a try tomorrow.

BTW, if it was my call I'd say your example was nearly 90% clear, needing a lil more time. Concur?

No, I see at least 5% amber and 25% cloudy. I would agree it needed a little more time but I would disagree that 90% is clear.

 

[stonethecrow]

ok i have a question

is it normal to start seeing amber coloring 42 days into a 50 to 60 day plant

i dont have a scope or camera good enough to get a pic like the above post so i dont know the clear/cloudy % i will try to get a scope as soon as i can but it could be a couple weeks before that happens

 

[HempKat]

ok i have a question

is it normal to start seeing amber coloring 42 days into a 50 to 60 day plant

i dont have a scope or camera good enough to get a pic like the above post so i dont know the clear/cloudy % i will try to get a scope as soon as i can but it could be a couple weeks before that happens

If it's a clone it's perfectly normal, often times clone plants will finish a little quicker then seedlings because alot of indoor growers, don't wait until plants are fully mature which slows down the flowering response some when you switch to a flowering schedule. Clones on the other hand, if they come from a fully mature mother, are fully mature the moment they've established roots. So for example, say the mother plant was 8 - 10 weeks old from seed when the clones are taken. When those clones root they're already at 8 -10 weeks so if you veg the clones for say 2 weeks before flowering then even though it seems like just a 2 week veg, those clones are fully mature
at 10-12 weeks (the mother's age plus the additional 2 weeks of veg).

Now if it's from seed it's not unheard of for a plant to finish sooner then expected but it is less common. First it could just be a seed representing a particular pheno that finishes faster. Then again maybe something in the environment is causing it to age faster or break the THC down a little faster (amber triches is an indication that the THC in them has degraded into other cannabinoids). Keep in mind also that harvest times from the breeder are an approximation. What is the right time will vary from person to person based on interests. To me the amber is the less important thing to focus on. I'm much more concerned about the majority of triches being cloudy. For my tastes ideal is 0% clear, 80% - 85% cloudy and 15% - 20% amber but that's because I prefer a more cerebral high.

 

[stonethecrow]

thanx hemp
i guess it wouldnt hurt to mention it is what i was told to be a purple kush seed and it looks like the pic from the seed site. it went 9 or 10 weeks before i switched to 12/12 and due to my noob impatients it was in sad shape a couple times during the 9 or 10 weeks. also it is a small plant with just a few branches and little buds so i really wasnt expecting much from it i just dont wanna let it go to long and lose its potency

 

[HempKat]

thanx hemp
i guess it wouldnt hurt to mention it is what i was told to be a purple kush seed and it looks like the pic from the seed site. it went 9 or 10 weeks before i switched to 12/12 and due to my noob impatients it was in sad shape a couple times during the 9 or 10 weeks. also it is a small plant with just a few branches and little buds so i really wasnt expecting much from it i just dont wanna let it go to long and lose its potency

Well it sounds like whatever it was that had it in sad shape might have caused the triches to degrade faster then normal. It sounds like the Purple Kush I had which was definately a small yielder. Also the smoke was okay and it gave you a nice buzz but it wasn't anything special.

 

[HempKat]

A Possible solution for some people?

A Possible solution for some people?

Do you grow in a small room or closet that has no windows or vents and the only way in is thru the door? Were you reluctant to cut holes in the door because you were a renter or because you just didn't want to ruin a door? Or you didn't want to end up with some weird looking door with duct work or vents thru it that would draw people's attention?

If so then I may have a simple and fairly effective solution that doesn't require you to damage any door and if done right is not noticeable or unusual upon a casual observation. What I'm talking about is what is known as a light baffle. Light travels in a straight line and can only turn by being reflected of a surface in it's path. A light baffle essentially makes it necessary for light to have to make several 90 degree turns to get in or out of a space. I also usually has dark flat (not shiney) sufaces so as to prevent the light from being reflected in.

When used in a room like I was talking about you can leave the door open for ventilation and not worry about light getting in during lights out or from getting out during lights on for that matter. If done on the inside the room then from the outside all you might see is some sort of black curtain covering the entrance. If the door is partially closed it just looks like blackness.

Below is an overhead illustration of an example room to help show what I'm talking about. This is similar to my actual set up where I have a smaller room built out of a corner of a larger room. The black lines oline the light baffle and represent 3 sheets of black plastic running from the ceiling to the floor. Now you can do it where to sheets are secured to the ceiling floor and any walls they touch. In which case you have to make the baffle wide enough for you to be able to navigate the path. Or you can not secure it to the floor which allows you to push thru it more like a curtain, which is how I do it.

Now black plastic is not ideal as it usually has a shiney surface but really the light that might allow thru isn't enough to worry about, although preferably you should use something with a dull flat color. Also it doesn't have to be plastic just as long as it blocks the light. If you want to make it where you have to navigate thru it then you can even use paneling or drywall and just paint that black. The end result is you now have a path that allows air to move thru very freely but keeps the light from passing thru. Often with these small rooms, because of their limited size the doors open outwards. If you keep the door partially closed then unless you're up close it just looks like darkness.

 

[DizzyGround]

I've got a question about hydrogen preoxide (h2o2)

I want to put h2o2 into my res and I want to know if I should be care of something. I'm using AHH nutrients with AHH growth/bloom accelrator and diamond nectar and super thrive.

There is something growing in my res because I had light leaks, fixed now. Some brown mass in the bottom, doesn't look very bad.

It might be the answer for the calcium defiency I'm having (brown spots in leaves in few plants, thick roots)

Also brown color on older roots which might be because of light leaks.

ppm 600 (1.2EC) ph 5.5-6


So the question is:
Can I put h2o2 straight to this (2 days old solution) as it contains diamond nectar, superthrive and growth/bloom excellator(seaweed stuff)

 

[HempKat]

I've got a question about hydrogen preoxide (h2o2)

I want to put h2o2 into my res and I want to know if I should be care of something. I'm using AHH nutrients with AHH growth/bloom accelrator and diamond nectar and super thrive.

There is something growing in my res because I had light leaks, fixed now. Some brown mass in the bottom, doesn't look very bad.

It might be the answer for the calcium defiency I'm having (brown spots in leaves in few plants, thick roots)

Also brown color on older roots which might be because of light leaks.

ppm 600 (1.2EC) ph 5.5-6


So the question is:
Can I put h2o2 straight to this (2 days old solution) as it contains diamond nectar, superthrive and growth/bloom excellator(seaweed stuff)

I wish I could answer you but alas I've only grown in soil and never used a reservoir. I'm not sure h2o2 is the solution for you though. Brown roots can be a sign of root disease and if that's what you got then h2o2 can be very helpful by increasing oxygen levels in the root zone. If the problem however is a calcium deficiency h2o2 will do nothing to fix that. There is no calcium in it and to the best of my knowledge adding h2o2 wouldn't allow the plant to suddenly be able to consume calcium that was previously locked out. If you have a calcium deficiency you need to be giving them some sort of supplement like Cal-Mag.

 

[DizzyGround]

Thanks for your quick reply Hempkat.

I fixed the light leaks so no more brown stuff shouldnt be growing as far as they need light. The roots have been a bit locked due to the bright growing area for them, so maybe that will fix the calcium defiency too as the roots get healthy. Looks like they are thriving in just 2 hours.

Also lowered ph from 6.0 to 5.35.

I should have OK DO levels with 24c res temps. h2o2 would raise dissolved oxygen levels also and wipe the bad bacteria out, thats what I want to use it for.

But..
You use h2o2 in soil and soil is organic huh?
So maybe I could just throw it in..

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for your quick reply Hempkat.

I fixed the light leaks so no more brown stuff shouldnt be growing as far as they need light. The roots have been a bit locked due to the bright growing area for them, so maybe that will fix the calcium defiency too as the roots get healthy. Looks like they are thriving in just 2 hours.

Also lowered ph from 6.0 to 5.35.

I should have OK DO levels with 24c res temps. h2o2 would raise dissolved oxygen levels also and wipe the bad bacteria out, thats what I want to use it for.

But..
You use h2o2 in soil and soil is organic huh?
So maybe I could just throw it in..

Ah okay from what I do know of hydro 6.0 is too high a ph and 5.35 is more where you want to be at. Adding h2o2 shouldn't hurt as long as it's kept at proper levels. It can be used in soil for helping to prevent or eliminate root rot and soil itself is organic but using soil and adding h2o2 doesn't necessarily equate to being organic.

 

[Panoramical]

Is growing in translucent pots a bad idea?

I'm growing mine in milk cartons, which allow light through. I've noticed algae growing on the inside of the pot, but the plants don't appear bothered by this.

I've heard conflicting stories on whether using clear pots should be used or not, and the story that sticks in my head is DrBud using see-through pots and noticing no negative effects. Baring in mind I have a similar setup to his (or at least that is what i'm aiming for) i'm generally inclined to follow his advice.

Following advice blindly can't be a good idea, so i've come here for more advice and evidence. Does anyone have the answer and is there evidence to support either side?

 

[Panoramical]

And another question;

If plants have been seriously under-watered, leaving a rock-hard, bone-dry, shrivelled root mass; what's the best way to revive them?

I went away for a few days and they got very thirsty!

 

[I.M. Boggled]

Wow!, 3900 hundred posts in this "Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?" thread now...
Thank You Hempkat for your dedication to this thread.
I haven't actually read through this thread completely by any means, but their appears to be a wealth of information tucked into these posts, good work everybody that's contributed, I Thank You all.

My hat is respectfully off to you

IMB

I'm growing mine in milk cartons, which allow light through. I've noticed algae growing on the inside of the pot, but the plants don't appear bothered by this.

If plants have been seriously under-watered, leaving a rock-hard, bone-dry, shrivelled root mass; what's the best way to revive them?
I went away for a few days and they got very thirsty!

I would transplant into a larger pot, call me a traditionalist, but I'd get me a black one...
after one first soaks the traumatized patient in a shallow tray of room temperature wawa (H2O).
The leaving of a plant soaking in a tray w/ H2O in it the next time one attempts to leave an unattended plant for the weekend has been shown by many to buy one some time before that inevitable point of no plant return happens to happen.
An advanced keyword search will return many results regarding the re-potting of plants (and the first aid that may be required to save the almost killt 'em/ dried 'em out ones.)
Algae growing on your roots is not a positive thing... although the soil drying almost completely out has probably temporally cured (by default, not recommended) the algae issue.
A Hempy bucket may be another good transplant recommendation as it provides some (much) leeway as far as leaving for a day or two, at least a large five gallon coco-peat Hempy style bucket setup could and should be up to that challenge.
Good Luck with your hobby,

IMB

 

[HempKat]

Is growing in translucent pots a bad idea?

I'm growing mine in milk cartons, which allow light through. I've noticed algae growing on the inside of the pot, but the plants don't appear bothered by this.

I've heard conflicting stories on whether using clear pots should be used or not, and the story that sticks in my head is DrBud using see-through pots and noticing no negative effects. Baring in mind I have a similar setup to his (or at least that is what i'm aiming for) i'm generally inclined to follow his advice.

Following advice blindly can't be a good idea, so i've come here for more advice and evidence. Does anyone have the answer and is there evidence to support either side?

I've always used more traditional opaque colored pots. I have heard it said and read it somewhere though that clear or tranlucent pots can be hard on the roots from light exposure.