Reds going vertical with Gorilla Kush

[Mile Hi Dave]

everything looks great! but, i wouldn't of plucked the fan leaves, the plant needs those. instead, "tucking" the fan leaves would still get the fan leaves out of the way, and they can still do what they do......

I get rid of my big fan leaves the last 2 weeks of flower, by that time I want the plant to focus it's energy on creating buds. I intentionally stress at this time as well, since it cannot create male sacs and spew in that short period of time. I want the plant to realize it's dying and i want it to try to propogate, anything I can do to make it put out more trichs (pollen catching goo) is good tha last 2 weeks. I know some fols that mess with the lites as well...I don't have the time to play with all that, but I sure go in and shake em up eveery day!

 

[redspaghetti]

i have to try me 1 of them hempy buckets.AWESOME JOB DUDE

thanks chucky

Looking real good Red, I am tagging along for the ride on this one

thanks B123D

if slightly stagger & off-set lights, plants like...

1 light 6-12" above the other.
also, the lights slightly off-set, so they dont shine into ea other..., also, seem as though they very close to ea other... maygbe 18-22" apart? that ok, if 1 light slightly lower than other...

if use xyz coordinates, some thing like, in 6x6x8 room:

light 1:
x3, y3, z4

light 2:
x3, y3.25, z 4.25

this make 3" off-set, both vertically & laterally... so if stand in center & look @ lights, see bioth shining... this usually work so that 1 light slightly shine on tops & top 11/4 of plant, other light(s) shine on 'meat' of plant, or most canopy, @ mid 2/3 of plant... they moved wkly, as plants grow closert to light, keep @ 2-6", by moving up-down-left-right...

it is leaves that get/use light most, not tops or flowers... moving plants+lights wkly get total coverage... never so they in straight line, so never shine into ea other... this make so light on opposite end reach near-end, due to no other light block... also make so entire plant become canopy...

this make so bottom canopy & tops always get light.
tops getting light not as vital as canopy getting light.
leaves (canopy) get struck most by light is mogul base slightly above tops, & other light(s) slightly lower, so config look like

*+., like spiral staircase...

or, diagonal... & not in straight line... if stand in center of garden, 1 light higer, other light, lower & to the right/left... this make better overall coverage & make so that lights dont shine into ea other...

ran similar set-up several, several cycles... found that can get better coverage if lights arranged in no straight lines... & not focused on tops, but in middle/sides of plant, where most leaves are, @ slight (30*) angle... leaves are not vertical or horizontal, they are anlged, to catch most avaialbel light...

if not put them closer, maybe off-set them (lights), for max coverage & not shine into ea other...
in imagination, w/ turbulaent+laminar air flow, & match go out when struck, & if foliar feed, dry in >2min, can get lights 2-6" away, no more than 12" (closest part of plant)... 1ks... either/or, no straight line config seem to work better than straight line of lights.

nice garden.

great info, thanks misstress

great info Mistress,thanks!!! Red, hello

hiya

everything looks great! but, i wouldn't of plucked the fan leaves, the plant needs those. instead, "tucking" the fan leaves would still get the fan leaves out of the way, and they can still do what they do......

thanks krunch, i did a lot of tucking and bending but some of them still pop up and block all the small branches, i tried not to pluck ;em to much, i usually just leave em alone to do their thing.

 

[NHMI]

Beautiful setup

 

[redspaghetti]

I get rid of my big fan leaves the last 2 weeks of flower, by that time I want the plant to focus it's energy on creating buds. I intentionally stress at this time as well, since it cannot create male sacs and spew in that short period of time. I want the plant to realize it's dying and i want it to try to propogate, anything I can do to make it put out more trichs (pollen catching goo) is good tha last 2 weeks. I know some fols that mess with the lites as well...I don't have the time to play with all that, but I sure go in and shake em up eveery day!

very cool dave,

i usually just leave the plants alone to do their own thing, i've learned that the less you touch/mess with them the healthier they become, but thats not always the case tho

 

[Mile Hi Dave]

The last cpl weeks there is not much you can do to hurt em....

 

[*mistress*]

I get rid of my big fan leaves the last 2 weeks of flower, by that time I want the plant to focus it's energy on creating buds. I intentionally stress at this time as well, since it cannot create male sacs and spew in that short period of time. I want the plant to realize it's dying and i want it to try to propogate, anything I can do to make it put out more trichs (pollen catching goo) is good tha last 2 weeks. I know some fols that mess with the lites as well...I don't have the time to play with all that, but I sure go in and shake em up eveery day!

for 1 moment, agree w/ member krunchbubble, on not taking fan leaves...


the plant is annual. it perish according to internal clock, based on total dark time...
taking fans only 1 method to make plant mature faster... more dark time, less nitrogen, higher temps, c02 concentration, etc... all can affect when plant finish... mainly amount of dark time...

can change light cycle to 11:30/12:30, 11/13, or 10/14... or, preferably, move lower by :30 day, to reach ~8/16-9/15... also make plant mature faster, w/out stress of taking fans.

culling healthy fan leaves only cause stress. kr&sty taught low-stress environment... they seem perform much better when they have no-little stress. no water, nute, light, temp, etc stress... certain not fan-leaf removal @ final stages, when they transpiring large amounts of water, & puishing elements though plant via active transport system in plant...

taking leaves take away how plant expel water, keep itself cooler than ambient temps, & mae food, from basic molecules of ferts...

seems, will perish when ovaries swell to max & no pollen to make bean.

found that they like nitrogen thru-out flowering (nice lush gr&&n leaves @ day 50) & they like to keep leaves...

the veins on the leaves (underneath) lead to the leaf blades & then to leaf surface, & out thru stomata... into surrounding micro-climate (when plant try to cool itslef).. & into air, when cycling thru lots of water, this where it go: out of leaves into air...
those veins are filled w/ water, transporting nutrients (elemtns) to the leaf to manufacture food for the plant... also, that same water is then expelled into the environment via tranpiration... this increases the water vapor in the environment (rh...), but permits the plant to cycle thru water & nutes...

healthy plant & nicely dehueyed environemtn & plant expels 90% of the water it given, in 24-36hrs...

so, if feed 4 big grrllz 5 gal water, 4 gal dehumidified in >36hrs... this how can verify that plant @ max efficiency...

if take fan leaves, maybe do so @ wks 2-4 of flower...

soooo many methods to do gardening...
if found/find what works, ...
there is technique to pruning (leaf & root), training & thinning to best branchs...

though, prefer to not cut anything, & dead-head oldest flowers @ wk 8-9, then permit remainder of tree finish @ wks 9-10... they do fine, as long as nitrogen + calcium + oron steadily supplied.

maybe found that, @ least w/ 5x5x5 plant, they like lots of leaves to make lots of food & transpire lots of water... especially @ wks 8-10...

however,gardener in this thread did well w/ fan-leaf pruning...
to know cut & how it will respond...
Size does matter!

The last cpl weeks there is not much you can do to hurt em....

yes, they can be hurt...
they can also be cared for & made to be exceptional... that last few weeks is where methods gardenr applies come thru...
they like quality care up until final chop... even not dont stop, as when to chop, how to dry+cure, etc all factor in final fruit...
desire no stress for plant during any of this. makes for better fruit, after 60 min 60 day cure...

either they swell & slowly mature to peak, or they have issues & die hard.

 

[Madrus Rose]

2 days after the top, it helped most the gals.

I turned off the carbon filter to check the smell and these girls are freaking stinkie, i might have to up my carbon filter when they're in flower. Also major big fan leaves blocking lights , i plucked em' good , now everyone's happy.

All Perlite ....

A few agriculturists in Edinburough pioneered this method for competing with the imported tomatoes coming up from N. Africa . With such shorter growing season they needed a medium/method that would grow em fast & ripe and tomatoes grown in perlite was the answer ....

Perelite is just a wee bit lighter than rocks ... lets see how
they finish . They should be growing spectacularly fast in this
medium, if fed crrectly .

We know Lowes loves ya ! lol

happy harvest .

 

[*mistress*]

~SYK~ wave also like 100% perlite... & give detail why.
SYK's Killer Bucket System (KBS) Suggestion/Discussion Thread
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=121419

finer roots w/ 100% perlite...

perlite:
immediately above a water reservoir, holds 30% of its volume as water.
@ 20cm(8") above a water reservoir, perlite holds 19% its volume in water...

found 50/50 perlite/orchid bark (small pieces) work very well...
both re-usable. larger roots (large pore space, less compaction than 100% perlite).
air roots grow better @ top of container in perlite, or bark, or mixed, than in 100^% coco...

perlite mixed @ 50% w/ coco, orchid bark, or even peat work well...
100% perlite work well, too, as long as keep nutrient >6.0, as no buffer @ all & ph of perlite ~7.0... no help from media to make ph drop, all in solution mix. if 80-100% nitrate nitrogen, ph of nutrient film on inert rocks rises, so input solution ~5.0-5.5, to maintain good ph for inert media... & let iron & cal thru...

 

[redspaghetti]

All Perlite ....

A few agriculturists in Edinburough pioneered this method for competing with the imported tomatoes coming up from N. Africa . With such shorter growing season they needed a medium/method that would grow em fast & ripe and tomatoes grown in perlite was the answer ....

Perelite sure is a hell of alot lighter than rocks , lol... lets see how
they finish . They should be growing spectacularly fast in this
medium, if fed crrectly .

We know Lowes loves ya ! lol

happy harvest .

~SYK~ wave also like 100% perlite... & give detail why.
SYK's Killer Bucket System (KBS) Suggestion/Discussion Thread
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=121419

finer roots w/ 100% perlite...

perlite:
immediately above a water reservoir, holds 30% of its volume as water.
@ 20cm(8") above a water reservoir, perlite holds 19% its volume in water...

found 50/50 perlite/orchid bark (small pieces) work very well...
both re-usable. larger roots (large pore space, less compaction than 100% perlite).
air roots grow better @ top of container in perlite, or bark, or mixed, than in 100^% coco...

perlite mixed @ 50% w/ coco, orchid bark, or even peat work well...
100% perlite work well, too, as long as keep nutrient >6.0, as no buffer @ all & ph of perlite ~7.0... no help from media to make ph drop, all in solution mix. if 80-100% nitrate nitrogen, ph of nutrient film on inert rocks rises, so input solution ~5.0-5.5, to maintain good ph for inert media... & let iron & cal thru...

mistress & Madrus Rose

thanks for the input guys, i've got some pretty good results with perlite and im sure i will get great result through time as i am still learning about it.

I learn something new every time i log in ICM, guys

cheers,
red.

 

[Madrus Rose]

mistress & Madrus Rose

thanks for the input guys, i've got some pretty good results with perlite and im sure i will get great result through time as i am still learning about it.

I learn something new every time i log in ICM, guys

cheers,
red.

well said red

In 5gal buckets of perl one could concievably produce 5-10lbs of tomatoes given enough light easily ..per /container !
Just think/imagine ..... thats alot of rootspace .

My only concern with this set-up u have (hand water/trays?) is the tendency for too much evaporation & salt build-up in the top half of the bucket & those plants look very green almost to the point of lite stress . The perlite does dry out very rapidly in the top half & salts do concentrate.

Since u have this set up as a raised "stadium" type grow it would be a bit of work but fairly easy to add some 1/2" fittings & 1/2" connector lines and do a recirculating top~drip/feed from a Rez . This would insure proper flushing/rinsing action over the entire rootzone & prevent inordinate salt build-up . Though the pump would have to be well filtered along with an inline filter with perlite tending to get everywhere & into the lines .

U could drip this medium every 2hrs or so during the light cycle & the growth rate would/should be incredible ...though would go lite on the nutes & keep the PH a little on the low side as mistress (very tecnically oriented person!) suggests .

So this is an FI cross from the VCI peeps ?

The plant is built like some candian girls i have know , lol!

best regards

mr

 

[Marlo]

How'd I miss this one??

Taggin for the ride. Good Luck Red


MARLO

 

[Yes4Prop215]

everything looks great! but, i wouldn't of plucked the fan leaves, the plant needs those. instead, "tucking" the fan leaves would still get the fan leaves out of the way, and they can still do what they do......

yea i been wonderin about that too...if you check Marlos STEP IN THE ARENA thread they say to chop the main fan leaves at 3 weeks after flower...he showed pics at harvets and the plants were still healthy as hell.

but i guess tucking should work too...il probably do side by side on next grow...definately gonna try this because im SICK of lower airy popcorn nugs...

 

[redspaghetti]

How'd I miss this one??

Taggin for the ride. Good Luck Red


MARLO

thanks boss, im watching yours as we speak

yea i been wonderin about that too...if you check Marlos STEP IN THE ARENA thread they say to chop the main fan leaves at 3 weeks after flower...he showed pics at harvets and the plants were still healthy as hell.

but i guess tucking should work too...il probably do side by side on next grow...definately gonna try this because im SICK of lower airy popcorn nugs...

Y4P215

im still learning about this indoor cultivation, my specialty is outdoor
i've some experiences with plugging leaves before, but with this vertical lighting i really need to fold the leaves or cut pluck em other wise other branches wont get any lights at all.

i hate popcorn buds too so i usually cut all the smaller branches on the bottom before they get in 12/12. I rather have the plants focus energy toward the bigger colas

thanks for stopping by bro

cheers,
red.

 

[redspaghetti]

Last day before the Transition

Last day before the Transition

I checked the gals and they seem to be big enough to go in 12/12 i dont want to risk it like last time

I also told 2 smallest one you better grow fast because we're not waiting for you, to my surprise i check on both of them today and they both grew over an inch and half

Sorry about pics quality,

 

[redspaghetti]

 

[redspaghetti]

LOL look at this little one trying to out grow everyone else

 

[redspaghetti]

 

[redspaghetti]

bamboo stalk come out to play

Temp

groupshot for everyone

well thats all for now, more update later

cheers,
red.

 

[unclefishstick]

will that perlite hold stakes up red?

 

[redspaghetti]

yeah uncle, i tried and it works