Fall Foliage

[mad librettist]

I have two clones of this plant. both are doing beautifully. It's a seed grow, but the pollen is taking a but long. It's blue burmese from bag seed, a welcome return after trying to scrog mazar-i-sharif.

So why is this one showing fall colors? I am 90% sure of the answer, as it's twin is getting the same treatment, save one big factor. What do you think it could be?

here is a twin that I supercropped.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Pollination?

 

[mad librettist]

nope, I got no pollen yet. male flowers have not opened and only have white goo inside. The male is under a window, in another part of the house too.

 

[guest2012y]

Okay.........cooler temps,or genetics...some would say Phos. deficiency. Not a bad thing if that's what you,re girl is looking like late in flower,but it doesn't look that far in....Is that about 3 to 4 weeks in?
That's all I can say from the looks of it.

 

[Lisdexik]

Combination of N def. and cool night time temps would be my guess....

 

[mad librettist]

it's had the same temps, same feedings, same mother, same soil as the other one pictured. I forgot to record the 12/12 date, but it's a fast strain, could be done in 6.

the answer is super duper simple. genetics is partly right. it is a purpling strain.

 

[CannaExists]

I chalk it up to water colors.

 

[mad librettist]

lol canna.

It's natural shading.

Answer: the plant is root bound! I ran out of pots and threw it in what I had. its twin has twice the root space.

Look carefully at the second plant - there is one leaf showing its underside, and it is purple too. Take away the green, and that is the natural pigment left over. All mature stems on this plant are also purple, in this scenario as well as in my other bin, which has big pots and scrog nets.

And take a look at the burgundy leaf on the first. Off the same stem, the leaves above and below are still green.

 

[Lisdexik]

That explains why it is more N def....

 

[mad librettist]

yup. rootbinding can look like all kinds of def, when the problem is not enough space. But remember, N def starts at the bottom and goes up. This started right in the middle with a purple sheen on the leaf.

in this case, it just looks cool. This plant is about two weeks to harvest, which whould be about week 6 or so. It's very fast. I'm already vaporizing buds of this, while the mazar is just starting to put on weight.

 

[Lisdexik]

Ohhhh this was a quiz......

 

[mad librettist]

more like an excuse to post pics of a rootbound plant with very interesting color...

I am the mad librettist after all...

 

[blazesck]

Why did you feed it the same if it was it was in less space? Just curious.

 

[mad librettist]

laziness... curiosity... habit... rather than throw out the extra clone I flowered it in the starter pot. I'm happy with the results. It will be nice and "flushed". It's only gonna get fish hydrolysate if feed the other containers and some is left over.

really though I should have kept the male in there instead. It's not doing so well near an east facing window. Too cold I think.

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

Check this out.

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

Or, how 'bout?

 

[guest2012y]

OMG ....you son of a bitc*h...what have you done!.......What will the children think!........BUT REALLY, it all looks NORMAL to me....whad' do I know..................Honestly GG @ that point,it's what they do...eh.

 

[VerdantGreen]

nice illustration of how pot-size is one of the major factors that influence plant size and therefore yield

V.

 

[mad librettist]

yup, it couldn't be clearer could it. Although I did crush the stem more aggressively with the second clone, it's the pot size that really made the difference.

Maybe it's the apical tip effect, I don't know, but the root bound plant is flowering more aggressively, albeit with obviously reduced yield.

Very cool pics greengenes. exactly the same phenomenon, no? I thought of you when I posted this, since you once said rootbinding aids flowering. I see what you mean, but it would have to be just right. My example is a bit overboard.

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

I should have given a little more info. That plant in the first pic with the red leaf grew in a one gallon, but was root trimmed and potted back into a quart for regeneration. I think that the green color starts to fade right around the same time as roots stop growing during flowering. If you can coax the roots to keep growing by some means, either a late repot or something like a superthrive additive, you'll see the leaves stay green. Too much rootgrowth and you'll get stem stretch and foxtailing.

I think final yield is shaped primarily by genetics, but with a strong secondary effect of water availability. Next most important would probably be PH. Too high a PH grows dark green, healthy, tasty plants with about 50% of the yield that could be had only about one point lower. Rootspace doesn't really play into the yield much, that I can see. Unless of course, it's just way too little. Of course, it's more common to err on the upside, provide too much rootspace and suffer the watering problems that come with it. That method always gets a teensy, weensy yield! Nutrients don't play that important a role either, just as long as they're there. I used to spend much more time thinking about nutrients than I do now.

BTW, here's a picture of the top of that red leafed plant; It's a strain I worked 6 F's down from White Widow. It's 7/8 WW and 1/8 my 'secret weapon' strain and it's named White Wizard.