so its normal then?
That's 50/60Hz input line frequency, he was referring to the output freq ( 20kHz) which may or may not be a good frequency for some bulbs depending on the specific construction materials and arc tube shape.
Typical output frequencies can range from 18kHz to over 90kHz depending on manufacturer.
Digital ballasts aren't the be all end all of ballasts, IMHO there's alot hype in the sales pitches especially from Lumatek. I had nothing but problems with a number of different versions of lumateks and said F$%k it and went with a nice tried and true reliable , easily repairable coil ballast.
I like CMH bulbs in my cab so a digital ballast wasn't an option as the arc tube shape makes it very sensitive to a wide range of frequencies. It works happily at 60Hz and is rock solid. I have a Galaxy should/want to use it, but it sits gathering dust right now.
Cheers
I run my 400 hps on 18 hours, I can rest my hand on top of the ballast for about 4-5 seconds before it starts to burn..
no problems here - 600w 240v units are solid.
I have a few friend who experience issues with their 120v detachable power cord 1000w units. Were swapped for hardwired units with a reset button and so far all is great.
Lumatek (from what I've seen/heard) doesn't deny warranty claims..they'll make it right should you have issue.
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As for the dimmer switch - hope it doesnt bring on its own new set of problems.
Does anyone know if it saves money.. is the ballast only drawing around 300w at 50%?
i got a 400 lumetek 3 weeks ago ,and running it with a Sylvania bulb..not had any probs. the ballast is warm to the touch (can keep my hand on it)..and makes no noise atoll, loving it so far.........but i shall be keeping my old skool lamp as back up ....
as for the boost switch thing . the guy in the store said to use it when you bulb starts to get old (6month)..its says in the manual to replace your bulb every 9 month,,,
he said (hydro guy), he used the boost switch on his ballasts for the last 3 months of the 9 month recommended for the bulbs life and not and a prob..then replace the bulb <<<<<<<hope that made sence lol.......anyway am loving it
keep it green
highlander.....
I'm using Quantum digital ballasts, and though the ballasts are good (cool, reliable etc.) I've blown two new bulbs on two separate ballasts, one a 1000W MH, one a 1000W HPS. My local shop replaced both bulbs for free, but I think I'm gonna have to ditch the Hortilux and try the Ushio bulbs. I feel bad for the shop replacing the bulbs (know they won't keep doing it) but if there is a compatibility problem they should make customers aware.
those buttons have nothing to do with the voltage selection (that part is automatic). They are simple reset buttons incase the unit gets a surge or something..I dunnot why there are 2 ??Basically looks the same accept for the 2 white push switches near power cord to swap from 120v to 240v.
I gotta agree.. alot of lumateks I've seen at 120v run extremely hot. Fanless..some models just dont have the ability to get rid of their own heat...cut the tinest of corners to save a buck and you've got a design flaw..with all the changes they've had they cannot deny some problems. 1000w @ 120v pulls enough amps to be close to the limit of its 15a components...especially when running constant 24hr in a hot grow room. In my opinion you shouldn't be running 1000w @ 120v anyways..its just too close to amperage limits.Temps: I'd say anyone having a Lumatek Ballast run so hot you cannot rest your hand on it for 5sec's. Should contact Lumatek and complain. If you've not had problems yet, your sure to. One of the things they brag about with digital IS the cool operation of the unit. The ones that have failed have all fried themselves, thus an obvious overheat issue. Hate to see anyone have fires. Make them replace the unit, they obviously have design flaws.