150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

[Barnt]

Wow page 318! It's been a while since I've visited this thread. Figured I'd drop by with a few pics of my current run.

Strains I'm running (10 instead of the original 9):

Lemon Venom
Bubble Gum
Sour Diesel
Sour Bubble
Purple Monkey Balls
Purple Urkle x Romulan
Querkle
OG Kush x Mendo Purps
Mazar
DP x Grand Daddy Purps

How about some pics?

Week 2 flower...

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Update

Update

So 4 weeks in to bloom and yeah, slow.
This bloody coco is really getting on my tits.

Still getting a mix of fert burn/phosphorus toxicity/nute def/ph fluctuations ect.

Hence the slow budding. Thrown in the 125w Blue Enviro to mix things up a bit... we'll see

I'll let the pics do the talking.

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Pics!

Pics!

More Pics you lucky people.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

So 4 weeks in to bloom and yeah, slow.
This bloody coco is really getting on my tits.

Still getting a mix of fert burn/phosphorus toxicity/nute def/ph fluctuations ect.

Hence the slow budding. Thrown in the 125w Blue Enviro to mix things up a bit... we'll see

I'll let the pics do the talking.

What strain? If those suckers take 15 weeks to finish those buds don't look small at all. If it's an 8 to 10 week strain you're probably ready to get some fast bud growth. That enviro will be like a shot of steroids. How's the Co2 machine workin?

I've never grown with coco. It's supposed to be neutral and relieve some of the common ph problems with other mediums. I've never heard of a digital pH meter that didn't spaz from time to time. I have to baby mine and it is a pain in the ass. Do you have any drops/strips to double check the pH? Oh yeah, I didn't even ask how you check pH. I hope you're not using a soil tester. They're not accurate.

That said your plant pics look good considering they're under the hps. I didn't see many/any signs of problems from the pics. One of the last pics looks like nitrogen isn't too strong. This sometimes slows down flower. Nice job.

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Thanks db,

The strain is ' Snow White'. It's a 8 to 10 week bloomer, so I hope you're right about the fast bud growth! Yeah, the enviro blue was certainly enjoyed by the ladies in my last grow; this time, with the hps, it's realy breaking up the dank orange light - mmmmm mixed spectrum. Just made the co2 generator - Water, molasses, sugar, milk and yeast. It's starting to bubble, so all's good. I came up with another co2 generator; just added a load of sea shells into a bottle and poured some diluted ph down and they started bubbling like crazy. If you know your chemistry, you'll know that sea shells are comprised of mainly co2! It worked great but now I'm out of shells :'( I'm only checking the ph with indicator and chart - crude I know. Going to get a digi e.c/ph meter soon You confirmed my suspicions - N def, of course!

Watch this space...

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I'm only checking the ph with indicator and chart - crude I know. Going to get a digi e.c/ph meter soon You confirmed my suspicions - N def, of course!

Sounds good, hang onto it even after you get the meter as a backup or second opinion. You probably already know this but sunlight is the best light to read a color chart. Artificial light doesn't always work well unless it's the correct color temp. Lots of folks here don't use the meter for pH cause it can flip out. EC on the other hand is easy with a meter. I made the mistake of spending $50.00 on my EC meter and $15.00 on the pH. Probably should have been the other way around.

You're pics don't really look like a N def at this point, unless the red light deceives. Just don't stop with nutes until you're sure you're ready to go plain water just before harvest. A reduction in nutes at this point could make them pale. You mentioned you were getting burn and I assumed you'd back off a little. If you do end up reducing nutes keep an eye out for premature yellowing. I'd rather have an ever so slight burn as opposed to a def at this point in the game.

 

[catman]

Day 21 and my cab is overgrown!

I added a 3/32 inch glass shield.

And my fastest flowering plant is a lone bag seed.. also happened to be to the best picture I took :]

Right now the top of that bud is only 3-4 inches from the bulb under the glass.

I also took some clones tonight and more pictures in my thread if anyone is interested.

Should I continue feeding with FF Open Sesame that is 5-45-19? From what I understand the P helps limit stretch, but I'm not positive.

Keep it green and glowin orange from the 150 :]

 

[Cozy Amnesia]

Catman, looking sweet man. Thats a pretty ghetto class shield but if it works than that's all you need.

You confirmed my suspicions - N def, of course!

Nah, they look fine. Nitrogen deficiencies are pretty uncommon when growing in coco. In can on the other hand cause Mg deficiency. Thats whey you gotta modify what you would use for normal hydro. What are you feeding? Are you growing in 100% coco?

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Sounds good, hang onto it even after you get the meter as a backup or second opinion. You probably already know this but sunlight is the best light to read a color chart. Didn't know that, nice tip. Artificial light doesn't always work well unless it's the correct color temp. Lots of folks here don't use the meter for pH cause it can flip out. EC on the other hand is easy with a meter. I made the mistake of spending $50.00 on my EC meter and $15.00 on the pH. Probably should have been the other way around. I found a dirt cheap EC meter : http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/items/item.aspx?itemid=4330232&utm_source=baseuk&utm_medium=shopping&CAWELAID=190620892

What do you think any good?

You're pics don't really look like a N def at this point, unless the red light deceives. Just don't stop with nutes until you're sure you're ready to go plain water just before harvest. A reduction in nutes at this point could make them pale. You mentioned you were getting burn and I assumed you'd back off a little. If you do end up reducing nutes keep an eye out for premature yellowing. I'd rather have an ever so slight burn as opposed to a def at this point in the game.

I did back of the nutes and now they do look a bit pale I foliar fed them yesterday and got to say they look a lil better Hopefully I have found a happy medium nute wise. If anything I'll burn'em a little from now on

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Looking good Catman, Bit of a jungle. Nice work with the glass; do you think they're done stretching?


Nah, they look fine. Nitrogen deficiencies are pretty uncommon when growing in coco. In can on the other hand cause Mg deficiency. That's whey you gotta modify what you would use for normal hydro. What are you feeding? Are you growing in 100% coco?[/quote]

Growing in BioBizz Coco mix - which is just coir dust and coco peat - with a bit of perlite. Nutes are CanadianXpress ultimate coco veg/bloom.

Had nasty Mg/Ca def early on but ironed that out now.
On my first run in coco I never ph'd the water and its soft around here at about 6.5 Ph. I never had any probs untill I got some ph down and ph'd at 5.4 to 5.8 . The ph down was Phosphoric acid which I used in veg; this led to what I believe is P toxicity - dry, black dead spots on lower leaves. I heard that Nitric acid is better for ph in veg, right? I think this coco peat likes a little higher ph around 6, so I'll stick to that. Using molasses now and only have praise for it.

 

[Cozy Amnesia]

Growing in BioBizz Coco mix - which is just coir dust and coco peat - with a bit of perlite. Nutes are CanadianXpress ultimate coco veg/bloom.

Had nasty Mg/Ca def early on but ironed that out now.
On my first run in coco I never ph'd the water and its soft around here at about 6.5 Ph. I never had any probs untill I got some ph down and ph'd at 5.4 to 5.8 . The ph down was Phosphoric acid which I used in veg; this led to what I believe is P toxicity - dry, black dead spots on lower leaves. I heard that Nitric acid is better for ph in veg, right? I think this coco peat likes a little higher ph around 6, so I'll stick to that. Using molasses now and only have praise for it.

I've never heard of CanadianXpress ultimate coco veg/bloom, but if it's made for coco than it should be alright. To be on the safe side, cross check the N-P-K-Mg with 97-60-105-67 (the modified lucas formula for coco). For coco, you gotta drop the potassium and increase the magnesium, due to coco's ion exchange properties.

Nitric acid is better in veg only because, well, it contains nitrogen! Once the acid mixes with the water solution, the lone nitrogen anions will bond with cations in the water and can be used by the plant for a source of nitrogen. The hydrogen cations, on the other hand, will bond with some oxygen and create more H20, or that's how it works in theory anyway. Phosphoric acid works the same way. For this reason, I don't think the acid you're using caused a P deficiency. Also I should note that Nitric acid is much much stronger and cannot even be stored in a plastic container! I recommend sticking to GH's pH Down.

 

[Divine Cosmos]

I've never heard of CanadianXpress ultimate coco veg/bloom, but if it's made for coco than it should be alright. To be on the safe side, cross check the N-P-K-Mg with 97-60-105-67 (the modified lucas formula for coco). For coco, you gotta drop the potassium and increase the magnesium, due to coco's ion exchange properties. The N-P-K for veg is 4-6-3, and for bloom 4-6-4. I don't know what the Mg is; here's a link to there website : http://www.canadianxpress.com/

Nitric acid is better in veg only because, well, it contains nitrogen! Once the acid mixes with the water solution, the lone nitrogen anions will bond with cations in the water and can be used by the plant for a source of nitrogen. The hydrogen cations, on the other hand, will bond with some oxygen and create more H20, or that's how it works in theory anyway. Phosphoric acid works the same way. For this reason, I don't think the acid you're using caused a P deficiency. From what I have read, I think I have too much P. I have been adding it at every feeding/watering, about 7 drops a L. Also I should note that Nitric acid is much much stronger and cannot even be stored in a plastic container! Whoaw! That's some serious shit! I recommend sticking to GH's pH Down.

HHHHmmmm, I'll stick to P acid

I'm getting some epsom salts soon so hopefully everything will go smoothly; not sure about epsom + coco spec nutes, anyone have experience?

 

[Cozy Amnesia]

Yeah I use epsom salts too. Last grow it didn't help the magnesium problem at all though. So far this grow I don't think there is a mg problem yet and I've given them the epsom salts only the last few feeds just to be on the safe side. Most people say they like CalMag better.

Also, I gave you the nutrient profile of head's modified lucas formula in ppm, so I can see how that would be misleading, sorry about that.

 

[catman]

Hi guys,

I think my stretch is over because the tops are flowering. Thank god!

I was expecting to get half females, but so far I've only weeded out 2 males so that is why it is crowded. Once I get some clones going I plan on doing a SoG setup I think.

The ghetto glass shield installation turned out very well. Because I can simply move the 90 elbows I have been able to push the glass right into my fan scrubber box for a seal of some sorts.

You gotta pH your water! If nothing else it saves headaches!
I

 

[poina]

POINA, means pissed off in north africa, thanks so much for the great info, it's people like you that should be running things! I have no mechanical skills but am seeing some possibilities with this 150 gig. For me I need nice and easy design to go 12/12 from seed. Keep up the great work!

 

[catman]

My mechanical skills lack as well. Hell, I'm half cat and don't even have thumbs! BUT! I've managed to do it and so you can you poina, welcome!

 

[TraneRek]

Could someone give a brief description of how to pH your water? What you do, materials needed, etc..

I did some searching but couldn't find a concise answer.

-Rek

 

[Pipedream]

If you are trying to grow organic, Lemon Juice or Vinegar will lower your number and make the water more acidic. Arm & Hammer Baking Soda will do the opposite.

There really isn't much trick to it. You'll need a meter, pen, or test strips. Just take a reading of the H2O prior to adding anything, then VERY slowly add either till the water is where you want it.

If you are mixing up nutes, adjust the water's PH prior to adding the nutes as most of them contain PH buffers that tend to hold the PH where it is and make it hard to adjust.

My choice is a cheap pen-type tester that can be had on eBay for under 20 bucks.

If you don't care about organics, PH Up & Down can be purchased cheaply at any hydro shop or good nursery.

 

[catman]

I hate to disagree with Pipedream, but I did a lot of research when I was a newbie and I found a pattern of people providing some slightly different advice. This doesn't pertain to organics specifically however. This method if you want to call it a method is easy, cheap, and plenty accurate to grow healthy plants.

Pens/Meters do fail time to time and cost $ to buy and replace.

I took the advice from most and use a Drop Kit. What I do is pour water into a little tube and add 3 drops of the solution. I shake the tube up and the liquid changes colors. I then match the color to a chart to tell the pH. One kit will last a long time, is cheap, and can be found everywhere from pet stores to walmart.

I use Fox Farm nutrients and I don't bother pHing my tap water before I add them because I did it a few times and I have a rough idea of where its at. When I add certain nutrients they will change the pH drastically. So be sure to make sure your final (or only) pH reading is done after everything has been added to the water. Always use a standard amount of water. I mix all of my water in 1 gallon containers.

I use pH up and down from the hydro store. You just have to use it to learn how much to add.

 

[Divine Cosmos]

Yeah I use epsom salts too. Last grow it didn't help the magnesium problem at all though. So far this grow I don't think there is a mg problem yet and I've given them the epsom salts only the last few feeds just to be on the safe side. Most people say they like CalMag better. I'm suprised it didn't help with your Mg def, because I thought it had lots of Mg in it, right? What was your Ph at the time because I read Mg is best absorbed (for hydro) At 5.9 upwards. Problem is, I can't find calmag here in the U.K, not even my hydro store.

Also, I gave you the nutrient profile of head's modified lucas formula in ppm, so I can see how that would be misleading, sorry about that.

Hehehe.
So these ppm meters, do they give you the ppm of all the different nutrients, or just the total solids dissolved?