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fungas nats

spainmedman

Active member
the guy at my grow shop said fungus gnats eat the root hairs, but they don't do enough damage to worry about, but I do hate seeing them stuck on my buds. Is this true that they eat the root hairs? :joint:
 

Gold123

Member
Anyone still following this thread?
Went to the grow store today to score some Gnatrol. I was told that it is no longer made in liquid form. They are supposed to be comming out with a powder or granular form. Checked with 4 grow shops no one had any. Most were pushing mosquito dunks. Does anyone know the dilution for the dunks if used as a drench? Talked my grow shop into selling me his open 2 1/2 Gallon jug. About 1 gal. left. Hope it's still viable. Only charged me $20. After all the buggers came in his dirt. Trying like crazy to get rid of those darn NATS.If any of you still use Gnatrol any want more pick some up before it's all gone, whatever stock is on hand my be the last.
 

Gold123

Member
I did some research and found out there is a Gnatrol WDG (water dispersible granules) but can't find it anywhere.
 

Gold123

Member
day 2 after application of Gnatrol drench at max dose 8 tsp/gal. Still have too many flying around. Hit them with pyrithrin twice a day To knock them down. New ones keep hatching. Is this stuff going to work? Any other suggestions?
 

Care Free 1

Active member
Veteran
Gold 123

Fungus Gnats are like having flee's on a dog. You hate seeing it suffer so you need to do something.

If you have a full infestation of fungus gnats, Gnatrol will only slow them down, and you wont see it better for several weeks unless you take extreme measures.

I have not tried the nematodes yet, which sounds like a good bet.

I use Gnatrol in the potting soil prior to planting the plants. That way the larvae get killed proir to them feeding on the roots. and having a food source to keep them going.

Once the infestion has been allowed to progress, I would take steps to seal the pots on the bottom. I use duct tape over the side holes in the pot, and I set the pots on a small piece of carpet in the growroom to close off access to the bottom holes. I use a thick layer of perlite on top of the soil to make it more difficult for them. I go into the room and take a vacuum cleaner and suck up any visible adults, and I keep it up. I use Gnatrol every other watering at full dose until I see improvement.

Once the infestaion is full on, its a battle every day, so use the Gnatrol before you plant to prevent it in the first place.

Still want to try the nematodes if infested again, but they are more $$$$$$
 

Gold123

Member
Thanks. I got sand today and will top all the pots in the morning when the lights come on. I also picked up some Mosquito Dunks, just to have. What is the proceedure for making a drench with them? I put one in the blender and ground it up then I added water and mixed it well. Not all of it disolved. Letting it sit in a gallon jug of H2O to bloom. Should I stick with my Gnatrol?
I was thinking of combining them even though they are the same thing.
Every grow I learn to deal with a new nemesis. 50 grows from now I might have a handle on all that can happen or not.
 
i had these for along time. watering from the bottom was the only thing that seemed to help, until i found diatomaceous earth. spread about a 1/2" on the soil suface or mix a 12oz cup worth in 3 gals of soil before planting. this killed them in about a week and they havn't come back. diatomaceous earth doesn't interfere with ph or nutrients so you can't over apply. it is also slow release silica source for your plants. if you reuse your soil there is no need to reapply. DE is made of ground up fossilized diatoms that don't break down. they work by cutting into the bugs outter shell causing them to dry out and die. similiar to what would happen if you crawled through broken glass. DE is cheap, but make sure you get "food grade", non food grade contains things harmfull to you and your plants. this is the stuff used in pool filters. try it, works great for any soil bourne pests.



edit - in case someone doesn't read to the next page, i want to clairify something. if you are going to use DE for anything other than your pool. you must use "FOOD GRADE". this would include plants, pets, even yourself. it's really good stuff look into it.
 
I used mosquito dunks for gnats. In coco but probably similar to soil. Just tore off a small piece of the ring, crumpled it up in a bucket of water and let it sit for a few days. Next watering just added some of that dunked water and the floating stuff to my feed water and watered normally. I picked the dunk stuff off the sides of my bucket and put as much of that as I could on top of the coco. Had enough water and stuff to do that with two waterings, maybe half a gallon of the dunked water added in to 2 gallons of fresh water, then added my nutes and ph balalnced it. Haven't seen an adult since. I only had a few and didn't have them really bad though.
 

Gold123

Member
Day 4 after 2 doses of Gnatrol and application of sand. Only a few flying around today. I added a third oscillating fan yesterday. Hope to be gnat free soon.
 

Gold123

Member
I was in Home Depot today looking at pond pumps. I came across a product called Beckett Skeeter Stopper, 1.7% Bacillus thuringienis subsp. israelenis, same stuff as Gnatrol and Mosquito Dunks. Comes as a powder in a packet.
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I personally won't use dunk tabs or anything like that...simply don't trust the chemicals.

I have had great luck at controlling gnats by simply adding 30-60ml's of H2O2 per gal of top feed water. This will control the gnats as well as provide your roots a massive amount of usable oxygen.
 

Gold123

Member
What product are you using? I have Clearex. I use it to flush at the end of flower. Do you use it in your nutrient solution or by itself. Do you PH adjust the H2O2 water?
I know a lot of questions, need to be right on.
If I use H2O2 on the next watering won't the H2O2 kill my bacillus that I just introduced?
The bacillus in theses products are naturally occuring in the soil. I hated to use them also but the lesser of two evils is the bacillus and not the nats. Only had 2 flying around this morning. I might be winning. BTW I'm in the flowering stage coulple weeks left.
 
sticky bug strips, and a cup of grape kool-aid in the corner of the room, switch kool-aid out daily or every couple days to prevent mold growth, buggers flock to it,
 

Gold123

Member
I have turned the corner, only one nat this morning.
When flushing with H2O2 should I use PH adjusted H2O or right out of the tap?
 
CannaDestroyer

CannaDestroyer

DE is cheap, but make sure you get "food grade", non food grade contains things harmfull to you and your plants. this is the stuff used in pool filters. try it, works great for any soil bourne pests
_________________Hey CannaDestroyer, great bit of info their, are you saying pool filter DE is ok to use?? Peace m_t _
 

Gold123

Member
Yesterday I flushed all 31 1.5 gal pots with 2 gallons of Clearex (h202) PH'd to 5.5-6.0. I used 15ml/gal, max dose per label. Poured the clearex 2 gal at a time through each pot going slowly for it to keep the top of the pot full of water until it all went through. It took all day 6 hours. Didn't open the tent this AM was busy. Checked on it this afternoon and there were half dozen nats. Is this a loosing battle. Anyone have any other sugggestions. I don't have room left in the pots to add diatomatious earth. They are topped with a good layer of sand. I'm maybe 2 weeks from finishing flower. Do you think I should add Gnatrol again on the next watering?
 
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