1) Environment
Make sure your mix is not too dense (I like 50% perlite to soil), and have a drainage layer of perlite in the bottom of the pots, covering the holes. Rotting roots from a mix that stays too wet make an easy meal for the larvae.
2) Adults
In an enclosed space, pyrethrum (spruzit) is very effetive against the adult flies. It is derived from chrysanthemums, and although it is not good for you, it breaks down into innocent substances within days. Remember that the adults do not eat, they only lay eggs. Spray at least twice to get them all.
3) Larvae
Nematodes are extremely effective against the larvae. Larvae eat the roots, which is what does the actual damage.
B
Buffoonman
Been using a product called Gnat Off for about a week even doubled the recommended dose but it dosn't seem to have done a thing. Will be going back to the tried and tested method of covering the top of the soil with a couple of inches of sand and drying things out a bit. Paid £17 for the Gnat Off, certainly would not recommend it.
30ml/gal of 3% hydrogen peroxide works a treat. Just mix it into your feed water. It will kill the gnats and larvae as well as invigorate your plants. (i'm prolly repeating myself here)
I found that sand is not that good, use DE of perlite
robbiedublu
Member
Predator gnats from Natures Control will eliminate them.
The Gnatural in a bottle (liquid) was discontinued due to production and shelf life problems. The manufacturer kept it hush hush and quickly made the granulated formula which is better, but still nothing special.
Anyone that can get rid of a fungus gnat problem with neem, gatural, bombs, etc, don't have a serious gnat problem.
If you have a serious gnat problem, like I did, in my 8,000 watt room, there is only one solution, and as with most proper solutions, it is expensive.
http://www.growersupply.com/ sells the dead serious bug killers, they are one of the few places to have the certification to sell serious stuff. However, due to the fact that it mostly goes to farms, they only have large amounts (aka a gallon).
What you want is a product called Discus. It is not on their site for whatever reason but they have it in stock and it is by far the end all solution for both Fungus Gnats and White Flies.
Let me clarify what I mean by solution. I have a 8,000 watt room that was straight up infested with both white flies and fungus gnats to the point where my plants were suffering and there were literally swarms of bugs both in the air and in the medium.
Within 24 hours of applying Discus, there was not one bug in the entire grow room. One application and everyting was dead. So, if you can afford the $300 price tag, that's what you want. Prior to this we tried Gnatural (both liquid and granular), bombs, neem, SM-90, everything. Nothing worked.
If you have a major white fly or fungus gnat problem, get Discus.
It worked so well that the manager at the large hydro store I go to took a sample of it, used it, and was blown away said its the only thing hes going to recommend from now on.
Anyone that can get rid of a fungus gnat problem with neem, gatural, bombs, etc, don't have a serious gnat problem.
If you have a serious gnat problem, like I did, in my 8,000 watt room, there is only one solution, and as with most proper solutions, it is expensive.
http://www.growersupply.com/ sells the dead serious bug killers, they are one of the few places to have the certification to sell serious stuff. However, due to the fact that it mostly goes to farms, they only have large amounts (aka a gallon).
What you want is a product called Discus. It is not on their site for whatever reason but they have it in stock and it is by far the end all solution for both Fungus Gnats and White Flies.
Let me clarify what I mean by solution. I have a 8,000 watt room that was straight up infested with both white flies and fungus gnats to the point where my plants were suffering and there were literally swarms of bugs both in the air and in the medium.
Within 24 hours of applying Discus, there was not one bug in the entire grow room. One application and everyting was dead. So, if you can afford the $300 price tag, that's what you want. Prior to this we tried Gnatural (both liquid and granular), bombs, neem, SM-90, everything. Nothing worked.
If you have a major white fly or fungus gnat problem, get Discus.
It worked so well that the manager at the large hydro store I go to took a sample of it, used it, and was blown away said its the only thing hes going to recommend from now on.
D
Diamonddss
i see alot of folks uses hot shot pest strips. Many swear by them. EEveryone seems to agree they work but not agree on the chemical effects on the room and/or bud and or humans/pets
O
otherwhitemeat
I would steer clear of the HS No Pest Strips---they give off a toxic gas which can stick to surfaces and gooey buds. I use the standard glue traps and mosquito dunks. Each time I repot, I break the dunk into small pieces (about the size of a pea) and sprinkle about 1/4 of a dunk on the surface, then top dress with an inch of soil and blend in with my fingers. While this may not kill all of the gnats, it allows some natural control. Combined with the glue traps, you can tolerate the fuckers and remain 100% organic. I've found that my FFOF seems to always have some gnat larvae, each time I get rid of them completely, they are back at the next repotting.
D
Diamonddss
i was in a reptile store the other day. They had a hot shot pest strip in with a python. The labels say no animals. I thought about saying something as im not into seeing animals suffer when i can do something. Not a fanatic just a guy who doesnt like animals abused
Dichlorvos, the stuff in Hot Shot strips is commonly used to prevent pests in and around foodstuffs. The gas is not toxic...except to bugs. In fact, it is commonly used as a treatment against bots and other animal ailments, and fed directly to animals.
Yeah, there is a good reason they list no animal on a pest strip...but as in everything, dosage is highly relevant. Water is toxic, and can kill you. That is not a myth, and can be verified. Same as any problems that may be associated with dichlorvos can be. I rarely listen to someone just popping off wise on the internet, because it seems like so many are quick to warn people based on their own conclusions, and not documented facts.
Rumors suck, and this place is full of them.
Yeah, there is a good reason they list no animal on a pest strip...but as in everything, dosage is highly relevant. Water is toxic, and can kill you. That is not a myth, and can be verified. Same as any problems that may be associated with dichlorvos can be. I rarely listen to someone just popping off wise on the internet, because it seems like so many are quick to warn people based on their own conclusions, and not documented facts.
Rumors suck, and this place is full of them.
Hypoasis (predator mites) for fungus gnats?
Hypoasis (predator mites) for fungus gnats?
Hypoasis for fungus gnats?
Anyone use Hypoaspis, a soild dwelling predator mite, for fungus gnats?
My older leaves are yellowing and dying and my sticky trap is getting pretty full. Guy at the grow store recommended these little bugs, Pricey but not poisonous as I am going for as organic as possible.
Already tried epsom salt foilar feed and letting plants dry out. Plants are growing well but losing older leaves,
I'm told the mites will die once they have fed on the gnats.
also supposed to helpful for thirps.
Any feedbacK?
Hypoasis (predator mites) for fungus gnats?
Hypoasis for fungus gnats?
Anyone use Hypoaspis, a soild dwelling predator mite, for fungus gnats?
My older leaves are yellowing and dying and my sticky trap is getting pretty full. Guy at the grow store recommended these little bugs, Pricey but not poisonous as I am going for as organic as possible.
Already tried epsom salt foilar feed and letting plants dry out. Plants are growing well but losing older leaves,
I'm told the mites will die once they have fed on the gnats.
also supposed to helpful for thirps.
Any feedbacK?
