Who grows Glue better than you

[Seaf0ur]

hell yeah knock them fuckers off any way you can for now... and go overkill on the predators... plus get the bean leaf... it'll have eggs as well.

 

[Grizz]

flame thrower works , lol , seriously I used mighty wash last time, sprayed every day for 3 days str8, seemed to work well enough to finish the grow.

 

[Lyfespan]

flame thrower works , lol , seriously I used mighty wash last time, sprayed every day for 3 days str8, seemed to work well enough to finish the grow.

you laugh at the flame thrower, but i just used my mapp gas torch with the electric ignition, to do quick bursts and actually did just burn the fucking borg off my cindy before harvesting. plant took it like a champ, the borg not so good hahahah

 

[nkatadelgormo]

I hear if you fart in a bag and light it on fire the time space continuum collapses on itself causing insects to have weird dreams about why they are here on earth. Thus leading to depression of the insect and ultimately will feast itself to death on processed meats. Fact

 

[Mikell]

Bean leaf or vermiculite/bran, they all have to same feed mite (dust/bran mites, not pest mites) and include all stages.

I've never enjoyed removing decomposing bean leaves or having plants dusted in verm/bran but what can you do.

Sachets are preferable if available.

Never been a fan of biocontrol in flower myself. Persimilis will provide faster control (1 week compared to 2-4 for other predators) if applied at high density and 70% humidity. The lower the humidity, the lower the egg hatching, laying and moulting rate (50%RH reduces rates by roughly 90+%). Contact insecticides with low-zero residual should be applied frequently before introduction.

I miss having punctillum around. Bastards were cool as all hell but more so I like not having anything for them to feed on.

While having S. scimitus (formerly H. miles) around is nice, I would be looking for reasons as to a population expansion.

 

[Seaf0ur]

Bean leaf or vermiculite/bran, they all have to same feed mite (dust/bran mites, not pest mites) and include all stages.

I've never enjoyed removing decomposing bean leaves or having plants dusted in verm/bran but what can you do.

Sachets are preferable if available.

Never been a fan of biocontrol in flower myself. Persimilis will provide faster control (1 week compared to 2-4 for other predators) if applied at high density and 70% humidity. The lower the humidity, the lower the egg hatching, laying and moulting rate (50%RH reduces rates by roughly 90+%). Contact insecticides with low-zero residual should be applied frequently before introduction.

I miss having punctillum around. Bastards were cool as all hell but more so I like not having anything for them to feed on.

While having S. scimitus (formerly H. miles) around is nice, I would be looking for reasons as to a population expansion.

The Hypoaspis are raised with a harmless cheese mite.

The spider mite specific predators are raised with two spotted spider mites so they already have a taste for their intended prey.

The bean leaf is the best option because it has all life stages including the predators eggs.

The vermiculite is inoculated with predators using a weak vacuum machine and may contain some eggs, but not many.

Also... bean leaves are easy to remove, but buds with vermiculite or corn grit stuck in em are much less pleasant to smoke...

Mikell is correct, the humidity thing is a key factor with effectiveness.
Galendromus occidentalis, Amblyseius Swirski, Mesoseiulus longipes and Neoseiulus fallacis will have an easier time in lower humidity than Phytoseiulus persimilis....

I've also found Neoseiulus Amblyseius californicus to be nearly useless on their own as they dont eat but one or two pest eggs per day (or a single adult pest) and they "tolerate" starvation much easier and better than other mites making them lazy and simply ineffective in my personal opinion.

 

[Mikell]

Eh, I would think practices would vary by producer.

Interesting on the rest, I have to admit I haven't been reading much over the past few monthes.

Glad to have people around who share an interest beyond the application stage.

 

[Seaf0ur]

There are only 3 main suppliers to the entire biocontrol industry, Koppert, Syngenta and I cant recall the name of the third....
there could be some variation... but I know how evergreen works their stuff since I've been using them for a few years now.

 

[SourDank]

flame thrower works , lol , seriously I used mighty wash last time, sprayed every day for 3 days str8, seemed to work well enough to finish the grow.

I was just gonna say Mighty Wash, it's the only thing I'll use once flowering has started and even then only in the beginning. Seems to work pretty well in my experience

 

[Mikell]

There are only 3 main suppliers to the entire biocontrol industry, Koppert, Syngenta and I cant recall the name of the third....
there could be some variation... but I know how evergreen works their stuff since I've been using them for a few years now.

Biobest. They picked up the local breeders here about a year or so ago.

Can't recall if Rincon Vitova breeds or just repacks.

 

[who dat is]

flame thrower works , lol , seriously I used mighty wash last time, sprayed every day for 3 days str8, seemed to work well enough to finish the grow.

I was just gonna say Mighty Wash, it's the only thing I'll use once flowering has started and even then only in the beginning. Seems to work pretty well in my experience

Just curious but have you guys used just plain water as a control to test the effectiveness of the Mighty Wash? If you read the ingredients of Mighty Wash it's only Polarized water with a wetting agent. That just sounds like a jug of water with a couple drops of soap and a fancy label. Any thoughts?

 

[Grizz]

Just curious but have you guys used just plain water as a control to test the effectiveness of the Mighty Wash? If you read the ingredients of Mighty Wash it's only Polarized water with a wetting agent. That just sounds like a jug of water with a couple drops of soap and a fancy label. Any thoughts?

View Image

exactly what I thought, I did use just water after I ran out of the mighty wash, set the sprayer to a hard wash stream and washed the hell out of them, dident kill them but it controlled them enough to finish the flower,

 

[LakeEffect]

I've used ice water with a little castile soap to dunk clones and it worked very well.


eta: it was Dr Bronners peppermint soap. I believe the peppermint aids in disturbing the bugs

 

[who dat is]

Galendromus occidentalis in Corn Grit
Package Size
1,000 in 1 oz. bottle - in corn grit

Mesoseiulus longipes in Corn Grit
Package Size
1,000 in 1 oz. bottle - in corn grit

Spider Mite Destroyer - Stethorus punctillum
Package Size
100 in a 8 oz. bottle

Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves
Package Size
1,250 in 12 oz. tray - on bean leaves

 

[snakemanOG]

Galendromus occidentalis in Corn Grit
Package Size
1,000 in 1 oz. bottle - in corn grit

Mesoseiulus longipes in Corn Grit
Package Size
1,000 in 1 oz. bottle - in corn grit

Spider Mite Destroyer - Stethorus punctillum
Package Size
100 in a 8 oz. bottle

Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves
Package Size
1,250 in 12 oz. tray - on bean leaves

Good luck, been following and reading up. Tough little buggers. They seem to be under control here now.

 

[who dat is]

Thanks again everybody for following along and helping out.

 

[Arthritis_sucks]

Fuck the Borg!!! Been dealing with em since I started growing outdoors here in Hawaii. How are the bugs working?

 

[who dat is]

Fuck the Borg!!! Been dealing with em since I started growing outdoors here in Hawaii. How are the bugs working?

They haven't shown up yet

 

[Arthritis_sucks]

They haven't shown up yet

gotcha

 

[who dat is]

Starting to see damage on my fan leaves facing the bulbs and I'm getting like