What's new

317g Trim to Oil Test

Ms_Weekend

Member
I copied what you did and got a dark red oil like your photos. How do you store it? Glass Plate, the more it sits out the thicker & easier to handle it becomesDo you put it in a bottle? noIt is so thick and sticky! What was the yield? Did you weigh the trim and the final result? this info is in the 1st & 2nd page Did you do a second wash? no What was the yield? How was the 2nd wash compared to the first? Did you do a third? Assuming you did a 2nd and a 3rd wash, what was the wait time between washes? Did they dry out or did you freeze them? What did you do with the trim after you were done with the washes?Trash it

.
 

Nickog

Member

No 2nd or 3rd wash? It just seems like something good is being wasted. I have a problem with things being sticky. My hands need to look clean for my work. Sticky things get under my nails. Any ideas of how to make this and not get it stuck all over?
 

Nickog

Member
***Please Remember, all SOLVENTS ARE EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!. even the vapors!***

A correct purge of all solvents is HIGHLY recommended

#1 - Acetone - 33g
#2 - Denatured Alc - 22g
#3 - 91% ISO - 16g
#4 - Butane - 5.5g

1, 2, 3 smoke almost identical, & are the same dark amber color.....1 & 3 are less tacky than #2....#1 has the best smell out of all 4.

4, looks & taste the best, but yielded horrible.

In my book, acetone is the way to go.

I repeated the extraction with the first 3 solvents and also found the Acetone to be the best. It gave the highest yield and evaporated the fastest. I also did one batch with Naphta. It took the longest to evaporate off.
I am not sure of how long to let it sit to harden more, or how hard will it get.
 

MrWeekend

Member
Did you purge it with a double boiler? or just let it evap naturally?

if you double boil till no bubbles it will be a workable consistency, but will still be some what sticky.....With my own stash, I lick my fingers before I touch it. Also the trim quality really effects the stickiness........if you cant deal with the stickiness you might have to do bubble hash.
 

JohnnyATL

Active member
Veteran
haha you cant deal with the stickyness

everytime i make iso i use 91% and do a 15 second shake in a mason jar. I strain through 2 paper towels and purge the mix over a double bubbler. I use leftover weed from rolling and shake from bags and usually use about 14-21g of dried ground material of very high quality.

I usually get a very dark brown rock hard F/M hash oil that is easy to handle, but it melts 100%. What is the difference with my hard hash and your runny hash?
which is better?
 

MrWeekend

Member
haha you cant deal with the stickyness

everytime i make iso i use 91% and do a 15 second shake in a mason jar. I strain through 2 paper towels and purge the mix over a double bubbler. I use leftover weed from rolling and shake from bags and usually use about 14-21g of dried ground material of very high quality.

I usually get a very dark brown rock hard F/M hash oil that is easy to handle, but it melts 100%. What is the difference with my hard hash and your runny hash?
which is better?

Mine might be a bit stickier because of only filtering it with a 120 micron bag, but it ups the yield a bit.
 

Nickog

Member
Did you purge it with a double boiler? or just let it evap naturally?

if you double boil till no bubbles it will be a workable consistency, but will still be some what sticky.....With my own stash, I lick my fingers before I touch it. Also the trim quality really effects the stickiness........if you cant deal with the stickiness you might have to do bubble hash.

I double boiled it. I have a hard time deciding when to stop heating it since it thickens as it cools. Will it ever thicken enough to get hard, or taffy-like?

MrWeekend said:
Really close to being purged. I have other plans for this oil so its coming off the heat now.....keep double boiling untill all bubbles are gone for a fully purged product.

What was the other plans for this oil?
 

JohnnyATL

Active member
Veteran
I double boiled it. I have a hard time deciding when to stop heating it since it thickens as it cools. Will it ever thicken enough to get hard, or taffy-like?



What was the other plans for this oil?


im getting the idea that the higher micron filter the higher purity and harder more stable hash
 

MrWeekend

Member
I double boiled it. I have a hard time deciding when to stop heating it since it thickens as it cools. Will it ever thicken enough to get hard, or taffy-like?



What was the other plans for this oil?


mine is normally a taffy consistency, but slightly stickier than candy taffy.

The other plans for that oil was edibles. The rest of the solvent evaporates when baking the edibles. But please dont assume this. Ive had my stuff tested, & worked out all my cooking times & temps to make the strongest edibles possible.
 

MrWeekend

Member
More Oil coming soon....Chopping as soon as I get the time


Golden Goat
picture.php



Headband
picture.php



Hawaiian
picture.php



Weekenders Haze Hybrid
picture.php


picture.php
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Have compared iso and acetone and find acetone is the best , as long as you can stand the sickening smell and migraine , have to move fast and be done in 15 seconds or less with cold solvent.

First test was waxy brown sludge and scrap after 30 seconds with room temp solvent.

Found the blue/purple colours of some plants comes over more in acetone than iso but smokes the same.
Easier and possibly a little safer to recover by a simple still/modified pressure cooker and slash costs , never quite as clean with recycled however , so redistill and toss the top and bottom 10% that comes over , basic moonshine tek and obviously outside only.

Got a smaller amount of a much cleaner product by useing cold acetone left overnight in the deepfreezer for a ten second rinse , similar to salvia extractions.

Best source in UK is fibreglass suppliers and automotive paint factors , 99.5% with the balance mainly water , £12 for a 5 litre can last week.
 
can I just use a nylon filter bag used for wine? what bag are you using ? any links? where to buy? so you use a double boiler to get chemicals out?

so you don't let the trim soak the acetone? u just wash it and let it drip out as fast as possible? a little more clarification would be great. thanks. I did BHO, ISO, and bubble.... want to increase yield....
 

MrWeekend

Member
can I just use a nylon filter bag used for wine? what bag are you using ? any links? where to buy? so you use a double boiler to get chemicals out?

so you don't let the trim soak the acetone? u just wash it and let it drip out as fast as possible? a little more clarification would be great. thanks. I did BHO, ISO, and bubble.... want to increase yield....

Where I buy the bags you have to buy minimum 50 filter bags at a time, which can get pretty expensive if your not planning on doing lots of runs. Before you use any bag make sure to soak it in your solvent for a while to make sure it isnt going to dissolve into your hash.

Very fast wash. 2 gallons of acetone over a 5 gallon bag of trim seems to work pretty well. Dont pour the acetone out of the metal containers, takes to long to come out.
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Dont pour the acetone out of the metal containers, takes to long to come out.

This is certainly true , found out the expensive way on six ounces of good stuff.


After several messy efforts i ended up useing a stainless tub with a gallon of deep frozen acetone in it , takes the edge off a very agressive solvent and gives a few seconds leeway.

Pyrex is equally good , would avoid brass as it seems to taint the product with a nasty metallic aftertaste , not sure why.

Ounce of bone dry bud broken into 15 - 20 millimetre chunks in a stainless sieve , dip in and gently move around counting to ten , then flick off as much solvent as you can as quickly as possible.

Can use much less solvent this way , its a nasty pollutant that probably fucks ozone as well as being a bit expensive and going to get more so.

If there is any surface dampness on the bud it will pick up waxes ending up dark and a harsh smoke , somewhere between ten and twenty seconds and the solvent will strip them out , practice on small batches and see by the colour.

Running through a 40 micron sieve and a coffee filter cleaned it up enougth for me.

Found it possible to distill and reclaim the bulk of the solvent with simple homemade equipment , even a passive solar type still will get most of it back.

250 micron sieved mixed with oil untill just tacky , ratio around ten to one by weight , can be rolled/pressed/moulded/extruded to shape or poured hot into a mould and dried into a decent , stable and long term storable product that hasd a good value for its cost , vast clouds of smoke but clean to handle , smoked like squidgy black (UK).

Am told a saturated solution of oil in acetone or iso makes a wonderfull wood glue , i know a pro model maker who uses it on some boats and planes as it allows a permanent degree of movement and repels water , assumed it was all CGI nowadays but seems they still blow up replicas in a pond for the lower budget films.

He must have used a litre of my failed experiments over the years.
 
Got more plans on the distiller, foomar?

where can you buy the stainless sieve? what micron for the dip?
do you just let the bag hang to catch the last few drops?

where to buy 40 micron sieve? Stainless steel?
This is certainly true , found out the expensive way on six ounces of good stuff.


After several messy efforts i ended up useing a stainless tub with a gallon of deep frozen acetone in it , takes the edge off a very agressive solvent and gives a few seconds leeway.

Pyrex is equally good , would avoid brass as it seems to taint the product with a nasty metallic aftertaste , not sure why.

Ounce of bone dry bud broken into 15 - 20 millimetre chunks in a stainless sieve , dip in and gently move around counting to ten , then flick off as much solvent as you can as quickly as possible.

Can use much less solvent this way , its a nasty pollutant that probably fucks ozone as well as being a bit expensive and going to get more so.

If there is any surface dampness on the bud it will pick up waxes ending up dark and a harsh smoke , somewhere between ten and twenty seconds and the solvent will strip them out , practice on small batches and see by the colour.

Running through a 40 micron sieve and a coffee filter cleaned it up enougth for me.

Found it possible to distill and reclaim the bulk of the solvent with simple homemade equipment , even a passive solar type still will get most of it back.

250 micron sieved mixed with oil untill just tacky , ratio around ten to one by weight , can be rolled/pressed/moulded/extruded to shape or poured hot into a mould and dried into a decent , stable and long term storable product that hasd a good value for its cost , vast clouds of smoke but clean to handle , smoked like squidgy black (UK).

Am told a saturated solution of oil in acetone or iso makes a wonderfull wood glue , i know a pro model maker who uses it on some boats and planes as it allows a permanent degree of movement and repels water , assumed it was all CGI nowadays but seems they still blow up replicas in a pond for the lower budget films.

He must have used a litre of my failed experiments over the years.
 

tag

New member
saw bottles in socal w/alcohol content high to resemble congac. time and patience w/water wash for the one hitter quiter nepalese black oil
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top