Sqydro
Member
would you say yield is affected?
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would you say yield is affected?
G`day S
60 day flowering - 60 less hours of light energy.
100 day flowering - 100 less hours of light energy .
You don`t think that would make a difference ?
Thanks for sharin
EB .
Sqydro
Member
would make a diff to the electricity bill i have no idea if it would greatly effect yield id like to see tho plants finishing quicker is always sweet but to sacrifise yield would be meh dependin on ur elec costs ofc lol
O
OG Tree Grower
Sqydro less light hours will decrease yield but shorten flowering times. 12/12 is the best light schedule for cost vs yield.
GuerrillaRed
Member
One thing I forgot to add and haven't seen mentioned about. The quality of the water you use is absolutely a difference maker. I'm sure it's important for soil growers but it is arguably the most essential part of hydro growing and often overlooked. Your water chemistry will be the main difference between mediocre or eye popping numbers.
Definitely consider a reverse osmosis system if you're on city water and spend the time researching water chemistry to maximize your numbers.
Definitely consider a reverse osmosis system if you're on city water and spend the time researching water chemistry to maximize your numbers.
O
OG Tree Grower
Defoliation
Defoliation
Defoliation/pruning for any strain. Any system
Early veg
1- take any known sucker
2- first two nodes on any branch
3- take any branches that are to close to each other. Favour thicker closer noded branches, but leave all the leafs under the branch attached.
4- take any leaf pointing inwards, any leaf bunched up with other leaves that inhibit air flow
Week 2 flower
Remove middle layered shade leaves to the point you can see most bud sites BUT NO HOLES IN THE CANOPY. Keep it green with leaves so you can still phototsynthize.
Wait 2 days, the plant will re orientate remainding leafs to best absorb the light, after this happens you can finish the defoliation, take anything hiding a bud site while maintaining a green canopy with NO HOLES.
Week 3, take any bud that's not the size of a dime or not getting enough light.
Dont touch the plant again until your about to flush.
At this point strip all leaves except very top and very bottom fan leaves
Let the plant finish flushing and your done.
Never remove top or bottom fan leaves
Top leafs keep capillarie action in the plant and keep upward growth
Bottom leaves never block bud sites and serve as energy for the plant, they will also catch any remainding light that made it through you plant so none is wasted on the walls or floor.
Bottom leaves are also good indicator leaves and there is just no good reason to take them.
A properly gutted and defoleated plant will only lose 1/2" of growth that day and should be right back on track the next day. If you stunted it you did to much.
Obviously some strains need it more or less and can handle it more or less but this guide still works for any plant just go easy or hard depending. And don't beet your self up about it. It takes 2 -3 grows with the strain to get a good handle on it .
I always take my plants at harvest and inspect to see if there was anything else I should have done pruning wise but I'm usually satisfied.
I always prune an hour before lights off so they have time to heal up. If you do it at lights on the plant wastes half the day sealing up those cuts before it starts growing again
Remember if the leaf or bud isn't getting good light it's useless anyways so remove it , it's not giving the plant energy it's taking energy away from places you want it to go
If you finish with about 10% more bud than usual and you didn't have to trim any fluff then you know you did a good job
Defoliation
Defoliation/pruning for any strain. Any system
Early veg
1- take any known sucker
2- first two nodes on any branch
3- take any branches that are to close to each other. Favour thicker closer noded branches, but leave all the leafs under the branch attached.
4- take any leaf pointing inwards, any leaf bunched up with other leaves that inhibit air flow
Week 2 flower
Remove middle layered shade leaves to the point you can see most bud sites BUT NO HOLES IN THE CANOPY. Keep it green with leaves so you can still phototsynthize.
Wait 2 days, the plant will re orientate remainding leafs to best absorb the light, after this happens you can finish the defoliation, take anything hiding a bud site while maintaining a green canopy with NO HOLES.
Week 3, take any bud that's not the size of a dime or not getting enough light.
Dont touch the plant again until your about to flush.
At this point strip all leaves except very top and very bottom fan leaves
Let the plant finish flushing and your done.
Never remove top or bottom fan leaves
Top leafs keep capillarie action in the plant and keep upward growth
Bottom leaves never block bud sites and serve as energy for the plant, they will also catch any remainding light that made it through you plant so none is wasted on the walls or floor.
Bottom leaves are also good indicator leaves and there is just no good reason to take them.
A properly gutted and defoleated plant will only lose 1/2" of growth that day and should be right back on track the next day. If you stunted it you did to much.
Obviously some strains need it more or less and can handle it more or less but this guide still works for any plant just go easy or hard depending. And don't beet your self up about it. It takes 2 -3 grows with the strain to get a good handle on it .
I always take my plants at harvest and inspect to see if there was anything else I should have done pruning wise but I'm usually satisfied.
I always prune an hour before lights off so they have time to heal up. If you do it at lights on the plant wastes half the day sealing up those cuts before it starts growing again
Remember if the leaf or bud isn't getting good light it's useless anyways so remove it , it's not giving the plant energy it's taking energy away from places you want it to go
If you finish with about 10% more bud than usual and you didn't have to trim any fluff then you know you did a good job
O
OG Tree Grower
Voodoo juice-
Another price increase from those gouging fucks at advanced made me test the voodoo juice again( did this 8 years ago) just to make sure I wanted to spend 300 dollars on magical root juice. So far the results are the same as 8 years ago, after day 4 all voodoo plants have 200% more roots than untreated plants.
Another price increase from those gouging fucks at advanced made me test the voodoo juice again( did this 8 years ago) just to make sure I wanted to spend 300 dollars on magical root juice. So far the results are the same as 8 years ago, after day 4 all voodoo plants have 200% more roots than untreated plants.
Attachments
O
OG Tree Grower
Good stuff OG... but I've always thought that trimming/defoliating when lights come on is more prudent 'because' it gives the plant a day to heal before night time, when humidity goes up and mold is a more likely possibility at a time when the plant is exposed and weaker. a day here, a day there it's all good.
O
OG Tree Grower
I guess there are a few ways to look at it.
If that's a concern then do it 4 hours before lights off then your healed and you only lose 30% growth that day. Split the differance and everyone should be happy
On a side note humudity should be 70% daytime and 60% night time
If that's a concern then do it 4 hours before lights off then your healed and you only lose 30% growth that day. Split the differance and everyone should be happy
On a side note humudity should be 70% daytime and 60% night time
H
Huckster79
Don't always just work on em, make sure you have a smoke weed em while sitting down admiring them...plants are people too! Not exactly but I think hanging get out with em besides just while doing growing chores... I think the practical side is you notice little things you can miss while mission oriented. If nothing else it yields me more enjoyment
O
OG Tree Grower
I agree with spending time with them. But no smoking in the grow Huck. That shit is hard to get off bulbs and walls. Plus if your sealed double no no
H
Huckster79
I smoke in my "room" but not inside my flower or veg chamber but my work area outside of the girls rooms tho I keep doors open to em so I can see em but not exhaling on em!lol
I guess there are a few ways to look at it.
If that's a concern then do it 4 hours before lights off then your healed and you only lose 30% growth that day. Split the differance and everyone should be happy
On a side note humudity should be 70% daytime and 60% night time
Doing it before logjts off makes more sense to me , takes them a day to recover that's why you should only take leaves of the plants all on the same day , I haven't done this in about 15 years tried a little test three years back and in my opinion taking leaves of makes for leafy buds , take one leaf of and two smaller ones appear , how ever taking them of towards the end has to help te lower branches get light of you run big plants
O
OG Tree Grower
Ganja- are you saying the leaf to calyx ratio increases or new little leafs with stems pop out?
I have seen new leafs pop out even with lo nitrogen levels but I can't say I have noticed leafy bud?
I have seen new leafs pop out even with lo nitrogen levels but I can't say I have noticed leafy bud?
GuerrillaRed
Member
Another big thing out there that I'm finding. Having good light reflection in your room is pivotal. I'm watching plants grow faster than they ever have before in my new room that I took a lot of time in energy in to put in the right reflective material.
I've spent a lot of time reading everything I could find online about this. On side of the room I installed some insulation boards with mylar built in. On the other side I did a Kilz Premium undercoat with a Henry'S Solar Flex roofing paint coat over that.
I always thought this was overrated and I've never had a space before I could specifically build for growing. But man, spending the time and money for the right paint and material can be huge.
From my reading, mylar can reflect 95% of light back at the plants. The right kind of paint can reflect 90-92% of light back. It really does make a huge difference.
I've spent a lot of time reading everything I could find online about this. On side of the room I installed some insulation boards with mylar built in. On the other side I did a Kilz Premium undercoat with a Henry'S Solar Flex roofing paint coat over that.
I always thought this was overrated and I've never had a space before I could specifically build for growing. But man, spending the time and money for the right paint and material can be huge.
From my reading, mylar can reflect 95% of light back at the plants. The right kind of paint can reflect 90-92% of light back. It really does make a huge difference.
O
OG Tree Grower
I find paint works better either way, I always have wrinkles and stuff in Mylar or orca and that creates hot spots and dull spots. The paint is very consistent and over all much brighter
GuerrillaRed
Member
I agree with you on painting being better. I think it does a better job reflecting light in my opinion just from the eye test but both are good.
I went with insulation boards with Mylar built in on two sides of the room to fill in light cracks. I painted the other sides as well as the ceiling and floor of the room. I think the paint is a lot more even and better than the Mylar. That's my opinion though. Seems both are good though.
The insulation sheets are a really sweet option for folks who are looking for ways to get rid of light leaks or insulate their room. For instance, I used the insulation sheets for my garage door and cracks in the warehouse wall. Worked excellently while having built in reflective material. It was pretty darn cheap too.
I did a ton of research into the best paint. I went with a Kilz Premium undercoat because of it's reputation and anti-bacterial and mold properties. Then went with Henry's Solar Flex Roofing paint because it had the highest reflective rating of any paint I researched.
