What's wrong

[Redblueblur993]

I tried using Lost Coast plant therapy and it helped out a little bit I think it took away a lot of thrips I still have some I use ladybugs two weeks ago and they ate some of those bugs but I have a lot of aphids on the Apollos and very few aphids and thrips on the SBT. I got some more ladybugs to sprinkle.

 

[Redblueblur993]

Those plants have a lot of issues.

Like I said before - the most imporant things are the big issues, environment, water, nutrients.

- What medium and nutrients are used?
- What's the pH and EC or PPM of the nutrient used
- How often are the plants watered/fed

Yeah the plants definitely have a lot of issues and I'm trying to problem solve with the help of you guys which I really appreciate the medium that I'm using in nutrients I'm using is soil Fox farm Ocean Forest. And I started using a different kind of nutrients called element nutrients I feel like I need to get a new pH pen I'm using the Hanna brand.

 

[Redblueblur993]

I just recently started using these cuz I saw the NPK numbers were pretty high so I figured I want to try this I was using foop nutrients but the numbers are really really low. I tried googling the PPM and EC because the pen doesn't show those names so I don't know what it is

 

[Redblueblur993]

Another issue I'm having is that the aphids are on the rim of the pot but the ladybugs don't climb up the rim I guess it's too slippery for them I tried spraying them with soap water and they're still around.

 

[Redblueblur993]

I've been using this brand since I started this project last summer and it's been really good The leaves and the plant nice and green and healthy The tip of the leaves were not burnt due to New Bern but the problem I see is the numbers of the NPK is very low.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I'm looking at all the nutrients, and there is way too much stuff at very high concentrations.

If you're going the synthetic route... keep it simple. One nutrient of the NPK 5-5-5 variety as a general nutrient, a high N food (early-mid flowering), a high P food (start of flowering, seedling, to expand the root system) and a high K food (late flowering, to increase branch strength and ripeness).

- General nutrients: 5-5-5, and a EC or (water plus) 0.5 EC or 250 PPM (at the 500 scale)
Where I live, that's 1.0 EC total. And that's throughout vegging, in coco coir which otherwise has no nutrients. During vegging, the plant feeds by expanding it's root system, by finding new soil with nutrients in them.

So water thoroughly and slowly, and only water again when the soil is dry in the morning. Repeat.

Now if the soil is already fertilized, you have to reduce the nutrient concentration you give them.

What I would do, is, because it's only March:

- never look back, only forward
- rip up the entire grow
- remove any cardboard, carpets, wallpaper, ropes, cloth and anything cellulose like that and cover it with plastic or caulk
- clean the entire room and equipment with a strong bleach solution, which will kill everything.
- never look back, only forward

I don't know where the latest small plants came from.

However those look overwatered, and one has moss growing on top of it - a sign of both overwatering and a low pH.

The description of pH on the bottle is WRONG. In organics, the pH is 7.0, not 6.3. 6.0 is the low end, and also where mobile nutrients like potassium get locked out - there are a lot of wooden stems and red leaves.

Whatever the soil is, add 1 tablespoon of magnesium lime per gallon, to both raise pH and magnesium.