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What do people Spray on their outdoor plants (foliar, IPM, etc.)
- Thread starter anonymousgrow
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Really? That sounds like so much. No wonder I couldn't really tell if it was working or not.
Are we talking about the same product? I can't find any dosage rates on this product. http://www.gsrcalcium.com/MSR.html
Different one but they are all from one or two sources of srp...it is either Tennessee Brown or Calphos. All they do is grind it.
Perhaps you do not need extra P and Ca. If you cannot measure a brix difference by the next day (all brix readings should be taken at the same time of day) then there is no use in spraying more.
Or perhaps you do not have good leaf biology. srp requires microbes to break it down...it is one of those available but not soluble (little bit of it is but not much) thangs. Have you sprayed any salt foliars, particularly acid salts?
Perhaps you do not need extra P and Ca. If you cannot measure a brix difference by the next day (all brix readings should be taken at the same time of day) then there is no use in spraying more.
Or perhaps you do not have good leaf biology. srp requires microbes to break it down...it is one of those available but not soluble (little bit of it is but not much) thangs. Have you sprayed any salt foliars, particularly acid salts?
No. I have been spraying Cal25 on hot days, maybe 3-4 times this season. Every other foliar application I have been using PureProtienDry, Kelp, and MSR. However the MSR has been at only 1 tsp per gallon so I think I need to up the dosage. What else would you recommend Milky?
I think my leaf biology should be better than any other year, as this year I have been exclusively feeding foliars. I also foliar spray with my ACT's. I haven't been able to measure my brix in quite some time. I can't squeeze out enough juice for a reading anymore, but I was getting readings in the 20's.
So an ounce and a half of MSR? Is that liquid volumes or weight?
I think my leaf biology should be better than any other year, as this year I have been exclusively feeding foliars. I also foliar spray with my ACT's. I haven't been able to measure my brix in quite some time. I can't squeeze out enough juice for a reading anymore, but I was getting readings in the 20's.
So an ounce and a half of MSR? Is that liquid volumes or weight?
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i use a spray to kill powdery mildew. it is just a good activated watersoluable microherd called scd probiotics with some sea-crop added ( 1 tbs/gallon). the sea-crop does have chelated trace minerals but i use it in this application for extremophile archaea http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archaea
rna micro-organisms. i add food grade yucca extract as a wetting agent. indoors i add baking soda.
it works great indoors. it does kill pistils but didn't harm flowering bud in my experience.
a friend of mine has a horrible powdery mildew problem killing his entire 2011 crop (cannabis). last year we used my foliar spray (without the baking soda) which again is scd probiotics plus, sea-crop and yucca extract. we sprayed the crop in early september. no mold issues last year. there was no negative effect on the bud including appearances.
rna micro-organisms. i add food grade yucca extract as a wetting agent. indoors i add baking soda.
it works great indoors. it does kill pistils but didn't harm flowering bud in my experience.
a friend of mine has a horrible powdery mildew problem killing his entire 2011 crop (cannabis). last year we used my foliar spray (without the baking soda) which again is scd probiotics plus, sea-crop and yucca extract. we sprayed the crop in early september. no mold issues last year. there was no negative effect on the bud including appearances.
I use volume.
Chloride is the highest salt index anion there is. It is notorious for killing microbes. It is why I do not use Ca25 at all. I realize I am in the minority there...but I often find myself in the minority.
Interesting point of view. My temps rarely get over 77 degrees here, and cal25 must be applied in temps 77 and above. So I think I have only used it 3-4 times, but it does wonders. I will keep in mind an application of ACT foliar after cal25. Thanks for the information.
HUH? Is that a brand name or ingredients. Sorry for my ignorance.
Nettle and comfrey aqueous extracts.
Urtica dioica:
Urtica dioica:
There's this: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5458890&postcount=4367
Also more discussion of variations in method in the "New Improved" ROLS thread.
got it now, it was the cootz that threw me off at first, thanks.
I use a mix of products right now to keep the plants healthy and fungus free. I have had good results so far, although I never think I have the battle won. This year I am lollypopping everything to help. Also Im not pinching any tops, to keep plants tall and open to ventilation. These products double as my bug spray too!
Right now Im using:
Serenade (bacillus subtilis)
Neem (azadiractin)
Rosenthals Organic Fungicide (rosemary, cinnamon and other essential oils)
Safergro Mildew Cure (Garlic, Corn, Garlic OIls)
Mosquito Barrier (garlic)
All these products are OMRI organic Im pretty sure. No more Eagle for this hippy (it didn't do much for prevention, just paranoia)
I also spray a calcium foliar.
Right now Im using:
Serenade (bacillus subtilis)
Neem (azadiractin)
Rosenthals Organic Fungicide (rosemary, cinnamon and other essential oils)
Safergro Mildew Cure (Garlic, Corn, Garlic OIls)
Mosquito Barrier (garlic)
All these products are OMRI organic Im pretty sure. No more Eagle for this hippy (it didn't do much for prevention, just paranoia)
I also spray a calcium foliar.
self
Member
I've settled into a spray of fermented and filtered rock weed (Scientific name: Ascophyllum nodosum) FPE. 100 ml a gallon. It makes the plants visibly happy, every two or three days
Wikipedia:Ascophyllum nodosum is harvested for use in alginates, fertilisers and for the manufacture of seaweed meal for animal and human consumption.[20] It has long been used as an organic and mainstream fertilizer for many varieties of crops due to its combination of both macronutrient, (e.g. N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S) and micronutrients (e.g. Mn, Cu, Fe, Zn, etc.). It also host to cytokinins, auxin-like gibberellins, betaines, mannitol, organic acids, polysaccharides, amino acids, and proteins which are all very beneficial and widely used in agriculture.[21]
Wikipedia:Ascophyllum nodosum is harvested for use in alginates, fertilisers and for the manufacture of seaweed meal for animal and human consumption.[20] It has long been used as an organic and mainstream fertilizer for many varieties of crops due to its combination of both macronutrient, (e.g. N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S) and micronutrients (e.g. Mn, Cu, Fe, Zn, etc.). It also host to cytokinins, auxin-like gibberellins, betaines, mannitol, organic acids, polysaccharides, amino acids, and proteins which are all very beneficial and widely used in agriculture.[21]
leaf coat says it is a latex based product. do you know any more then that?
skulls i know it really protects the leaves without suffercating the plant and works very well,,apart from that theirs not much more i know about the product,,,feels very thick and strong after applied to leaves though,,s2
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Veg N Out
I used 200 gram of Albion Calcium with Boron and 200 gram of Calcium with humic/fulvic and surfactant , I have been using 100 gram of each. The results of bumping up to full strength were very good.
How much water are you mixing that in? The amino products are straight up amazing. If you get the Ca and B in the leaf as molecules vs ions they can move as well as say the NO3 ion. Nothing else does that.
My opinion anymore, for whatever that is worth, is that if you want tria use alfalfa in your soil mix...whole alfalfa meal, not just something water soluble. Microbes are not only fully capable of digesting fat as well as water soluble stuff...they love it. Fat is the highest density energy source of anything they can digest. It makes them reproduce...add enzymes to that mix and you will never look back at compost teas agains...or maybe you might, but I ain't
1 cup of sprouted barley seed in 55 gallons of water = high enzyme tea. Fuck the overpriced hydro store shit. Or try alfalfa seeds at least in veg.
And for you users of Roots accelerator (however they misspell that)...next time chunk some Ca amino chelate in that mix instead of the hydro store shit...see if the response might not be similar. I don't know for a fact...but I suspect.
Me wonders what would happen if you chunked KSil/fulvic acid in that mix...the fulvic complexes the silicic acid and K in a similar manner to what the aminos do the Ca and B. Then you have the 3 elements responsible the flow of everything else.
Have not tried it yet...just one of those random thoughts that pass through me brain from time to time.
