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Ways to increase yields in an organic soil setup?

hbj1891

Member
wanted to see if I could get some help with those who have run a perpetual method. first timer here and having a hard time figuring out the scheduling.

here's what we're going to have, each chamber will have it's own scrog. will be growing C99 which claims to be a 50-60 day strain.


(1) Veg Chamber = 2 plants (400w mh)
(1) Flower Chamber = 2 plants (600w hps)
(1) Flower Chamber = 2 plants. (600w hps)

Our goal is to be able to harvest one flower chamber per month, while staying under a 9 plant limit (including clones and mother). would I just make my cuts every 30 days (assuming 7-10 days for rooting) and let them veg for a month?

time isn't really of essence here, so letting them veg for longer really isn't an issue to give it time to fill out. also, i'm assuming it will take a few months for the cycle to be in full swing?

any info would be appreciated!


add in a 4 bulb 2 ft t5 and ur golden.

t5 for rooting clones and seedlings up to 8"...
veg chamber for next 2 plants cycling...
2 flower chamber 2 plants each...

january 1st(using this date for ease of understanding)you root up your first set of 3 clones(i say 3 b/c of the 2 per flower tent and 2 per veg tent that you stated...leaving 3 left of 9) and just in case 1 dies or shit happens, i would cut the xtra every time.)......depending on strain, they will move to the veg tent within 2 to 3 weeks...xplant to bigger flower container...2-3 weeks later they are goin into flower.

so at the latest by feb 15th your first set of 2 plants are starting 12/12.

and january 21st, at the latest, your t5 is freed up for the next 3 clones to start. this round will hit veg by feb 11th...12/12 by march 4....so see how you can actuallt get more than 2 harvests per 2 months if you stagger them right and dont make the plants wait for you. keep em happy and healthy.

but as you said, until you work out the strains you will be running and really understand how they train, clone, nutrient needs and stretch,etc...it is very hard to determine a schedule or guesstimation of any sort...godspeed
 
If you bring time in to the g/W picture, it definitely favors people with a big veg room where they can get plants up to size. If you want to calculate true grams/watt per month, seems like you should include the veg room wattage, too.

I guess I could probably yield more if I kept my T-5 veg cabinet going full time and ran a perpetual setup... But... I don't really want to be potting, transplanting, harvesting, drying, trimming, and curing, each and every month. That sounds hectic. Plenty of other fun things to do.
:dance013:
 

hbj1891

Member
If you bring time in to the g/W picture, it definitely favors people with a big veg room where they can get plants up to size. If you want to calculate true grams/watt per month, seems like you should include the veg room wattage, too.

I guess I could probably yield more if I kept my T-5 veg cabinet going full time and ran a perpetual setup, I could probably yield more... But... I don't really want to be potting, transplanting, harvesting, drying, trimming, curing, each and every month. That sounds hectic. Plenty of other fun things to do.
:dance013:

so many variables....in the end just grow as much dank as ya can. using the knowledge gained through the many resources we have and enjoy whatever the ghanja gods give you. not sure how we got so far off topic, but it seems your grow is preety up to snuff and after picking at straws for a while, we shifted to gpw...

utilize the suggestions made here and you will improve yield imo...good luck and do you have a thread?? would be nice to get subbed there to follow this grow and future ones...
 

OrganicBuds

Active member
Veteran
I didn't read the entire thread, so I apologize if somebody already mentioned these methods......

Using meters could improve yields for indoor organic grows. That way you have tools that will measure what the plant needs for optimal growth. Meters such as a plant sap ph, brix or refactometer, Na meter ext. Getting professional soil analysis done?
 
D

dogfishheadie

what about lighting schedule? I remember towards the end of ROLS thread someone mentioned switching up the lighting schedule for veg to (12 on 5 off, 5on 12 off), might not have been the exact timing, but it was something close to that. apparently in decreased the space in-between the nodes, which in theory would increase bud sites?

any thoughts and or tricks with lighting?
 
D

dogfishheadie

found it

3rd paragraph... 12 on 5 off 2 on 5 off lighting schedule for veg to create tighter nodes and less shock when plants go to 12/12 reducing stretch , lowering electrical and increasing yield tremendously.
 

hbj1891

Member
i dont think it increases yield but i keep all clones and seedlings on 24 hours, next stop is the 400w mh which is at 20/4, then steup up to the 600w mh pre-flower chamber which in on 18/6...then i run flower room at 11.5on/12.5 off

also start run of 3 1ks in blockbusters with the pure blue spectrum then middle is the dual arc, then the final is the super master hps or whatever...attempting to mimic the outdoors concerning light schedule and type.
 
...atempting to mimic the outdoors concerning light schedule and type.

I knew a guy who would add red lighting around lights on and again around lights off, which seems much more like what the sun does, with the warm red sunrises and sunsets. It also made sense in terms of utilizing the emerson effect.

I haven't attempted it yet.
 

invocation

Member
Speaking of all these new lighting schedules I have always used 18/6 for veg and 12/12 for flower period, am I missing out on something here?
 
The crazy new schedules I've heard of were designed to use as little time with the lights on as possible while still controlling the veg-flower snap.

I'm more into using everything I've got.
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I am really surprised nobody mentioned humidity!... Organic Ozarks what is your RH in flower?... i can talk for hours on humidity to increase yield!
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I once by accident ran an entire crop at 80-85% RH. when i weighed up the crop i thought the scale must be faulty. i wont bother posting the actual figures bc peeps are gonna call me a liar.

After some research on the subject I discovered that high humidity in flower is nothing new and there were several old timers at Overgrow who swore by it. I think the famous Krusty was one of them.

it is not easy to get it right, the obvious problem being lights out when saturation point will be reached. But if you do get it right man o man....
 

SeedsOfFreedom

Member
Veteran
1.I think the single biggest thing is airflow. Exhaust air right out of the area and get as much new air as possible in. Its a natural CO2 system. Ever notice plants near intakes air taller and heavier? Get more air in and they can all be like that!
2. More frequent wet/dry cycles. Achieve this by using a more airy soil mixture. This way you can feed plants more often.
3. I would also recommend square pots if you plan on jamming the plants in tight. Squares are more soil per foot(circles never quite fit together).
Hopefully some of this helps! The worst part of organic herb is never having enough of it! Peace - Dr Freedom
 

SeedsOfFreedom

Member
Veteran
One other thing I have found in my experiences I can never get any lights to yield like a 1000w HPS. 1000w HPS just seem to make the heaviest bud possible. I like to use a 1000w hps and 1000w mh together for budding, but you can not beat HPS for yield! Peace - Dr Freedom
 

wantaknow

ruger 500
Veteran
ok dont think i am a nut job here with this idea ,i have seen it work,the old sayoing more root equals more fruits holds true ,so lets work on the roots first then you get the fruits ,i have seen in a soilless mix setup where a guy ran airstones in to the pot on the bottom ,and had some crazy roots!you might try this and place the airstone in the middle on a few and see if placement makes a difference,this would need to be fresh air from out side the room if co2 is used ,the cool thing is it drys out the mix and lets up feed more often with this idea,
 

nukklehead

Active member
so many variables....in the end just grow as much dank as ya can. using the knowledge gained through the many resources we have and enjoy whatever the ghanja gods give you. not sure how we got so far off topic, but it seems your grow is preety up to snuff and after picking at straws for a while, we shifted to gpw...

utilize the suggestions made here and you will improve yield imo...good luck and do you have a thread?? would be nice to get subbed there to follow this grow and future ones...

good stuff:tiphat:
 

wantaknow

ruger 500
Veteran
moses has it right ,i too have experanced this as well as fast veg groth with high temp high humidity
 
O

OrganicOzarks

We average 50-60% humidity round' these parts. So they are are always in that range somewhere. Days like today could be 65%.
 

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