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rafe

Member
lighting

lighting

My veg room is 5 x 5 x 10 Right now I have two of those 13 inch 65watt cfls that put out so much light. I was thinking of adding a 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent on each wall with the 2 65's on top or I could make it a bud room and put my 400 watt exchangable MH-HPS. It has a spot I cut in the wall to fit my little brand new air conditioner. It works great the garage was insulated well.http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=3042
Didn't mean to hit that picture. Does anyone know what it is?? It is a weird pot plant thats for sure.Good night everyone
 

rafe

Member
preflower

preflower

Yes it is preflowering the shooting white hairs that come out before it really fills in I guess that is preflowering. That what it looks like! Now don't tell me I have room of male pubes growing all over my plants! Thanks
 

rafe

Member
Thank you

Thank you

Nothing like a nice old fart to liven the room. I am 52 can I play?? I will admit when I don;t know the answer. Don't worry my other friends.
 

IndianHay

Member
I mess something up with a timer and the light did went off 45minutes later that it supposed to go out. Plants are in 2nd week of flowering. Will be something wrong with them?
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
I mess something up with a timer and the light did went off 45minutes later that it supposed to go out. Plants are in 2nd week of flowering. Will be something wrong with them?

No you shouldn't have a problem. If it keeps happening then maybe something could happen but It's the length of the dark period that the plant measures to regulate flower. The longer the dark period the more the plant is triggered to flower. This is sensed over a period of days and the plant looks for a consistent trend. So an occasional minor glitch shouldn't be an issue but if the light/dark cycle keeps getting interupted the plants senses get mixed up sort of and this can lead to stress which can trigger hermies.
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
My veg room is 5 x 5 x 10 Right now I have two of those 13 inch 65watt cfls that put out so much light. I was thinking of adding a 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent on each wall with the 2 65's on top or I could make it a bud room and put my 400 watt exchangable MH-HPS. It has a spot I cut in the wall to fit my little brand new air conditioner. It works great the garage was insulated well.http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=3042
Didn't mean to hit that picture. Does anyone know what it is?? It is a weird pot plant thats for sure.Good night everyone

Adding side lighting is okay but unles you're vegging them above 2 feet it's probably not needed. Of course it also depends on how many plants you veg. If you decide to do it try to get T-8's which shouldn't be too hard or expensive. They give off a bit more energy then the standard T-12's
 

rando

Member
I cloned my plants using the perlite/wick method 12 days ago. I have all of my plants in flower for 7 days now and have sexed them all. I am keeping the male clones in the perlite so that I can use them to check for roots. So far, no roots - nothing that even looks like roots. This is my first time around, should I see some sort of pre-root or something by day 12? I expected them to be rooted by 10-14 days, so I'm thinking I did something wrong and they will not root at all.

If they don't root, what are my options? Can I cut clones from plants that are 1 week into flowering or would I be better off to pull one of the plants and try to re-veg it and use it for a mother?
 

Rudedewd

Member
Are the cuttings staying good and wet? Are they still looking green and healthy? If so just be patient. Some strains root very easily and others need a bit more time so if they still look alive I wouldn't worry. Temperature is very important as well when taking cuts, if it is too cool it can take forever to root. Almost every cloning problem that I've ever seen was temperature related.

You can take cuts off a flowering plant especially that early into flowering. The longer into flowering the plant is the longer it'll take to root though.You can actually take cuts right up til about harvest but it'll take forever and a day to root so I wouldn't reccomend it. You can also take a plant out of flowering and put it back into veg and use it as a mom.
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
RudeDewd pretty much covered it but just to add, in the future I would hold off on flowering your source of clones until at least one clone has shown roots. At least until you get more comfortable with clonning.
 

rando

Member
Thanks for the advice.

I'm not sure of the exact temperature of the clones. The room gets fairly chilly at night, but I have 2 20w CFLs over them and was hoping that would keep them warm enough. What is the recommended temperature for clones? I could put them in a box or something to keep the heat in.

Up until a couple of days ago they were looking ok, but the leaf tips are starting to yellow now and they are looking wilty.
 

rando

Member
Wow...I put a box over them and checked the temp - 69f. I'm assuming that's way too cold. What should I be aiming for?
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Wow...I put a box over them and checked the temp - 69f. I'm assuming that's way too cold. What should I be aiming for?

Between 75 to 80f. There are heated seedling mats meant for getting young plants started when it's chilly still. They're essentially electric blankets or heating pads for plants. Usually people don't need them though and can maintain warm enough temps when the lights are on so they leave the lights on 24/0 until they have roots. If your clones look decent considering it's been 12 days and they still don't have roots, tempuratures like 69f is the likely cause.
 

rando

Member
Ok, thanks a lot for the info. I will look into getting them up to a decent temperature and see what happens! I'd definitely like to save these gals instead of having to cut from flowering plants or pulling one of the plants and revegging it...
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Ok, thanks a lot for the info. I will look into getting them up to a decent temperature and see what happens! I'd definitely like to save these gals instead of having to cut from flowering plants or pulling one of the plants and revegging it...

Well like RudeDewd was saying if you do have to take more cuts you're okay for now once you get past the first three weeks is when you need to think of revegging first. If you can get the heat up then maybe go ahead and take a few clones anyway. That way if you lose any of the other ones you have some back up.
 

rando

Member
I put a blanket over the box and that was enough insulation to get the temperature up to 78f - so that seems just about perfect. I am worried about them though so I think I will take your advice and cut a couple more clones off of each plant just in case the current ones don't make it. Thanks again. :)
 

TraneRek

Member
Yo HempKat..

What is a good watering/nute schedule? I'm using GH 3-part nutrients in soil. I'm just not sure whether to feed my plants nutes every 2 weeks, 1 month, every other watering, or what.. Please help!

-Rek :rasta:
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Yo HempKat..

What is a good watering/nute schedule? I'm using GH 3-part nutrients in soil. I'm just not sure whether to feed my plants nutes every 2 weeks, 1 month, every other watering, or what.. Please help!

-Rek :rasta:

Well that kind of depends on the particular nutrients being used. I've never tried GH 3 part so I can't say much about it. I do know it's been around a good while and many have used it. I also know it's chemical in origin. Now other chemical ferts like Peters and Miracle Grow should be used more infreguently like once a week or some say even once every two weeks. I'm sure alot depends on how much "hybrid vigor" the plant has. I've worked with mostly either Ionic Grow and Bloom or PureBlend Pro and in both cases they seem to work well on a schedule of feed/water, feed/water, water. with the time between being 2-3 days (with 2+ gallon pots smaller pots generally dry out quicker). Although actually I found PureBlend Pro to be very mild and okay to use every watering if you wanted to as long as you weren't mixing it too strong to begin with.

Now with the Ionic I guess you could call it a 3 part in that it has a grow formula, a bloom formula and then a boost formula. The boost is only called for in flower for once a week at first but twice a week in the final 2-3 weeks of flower when the buds swell. Also it's given at a lower dose compared to the others. Basically it boosts P and K which are used heavily in flower.

Also many of the things people use aren't complete in and of themselves by design so you can be sold supplements such as calcium and magnesium along with other "micro" nutrients. So you need to look at that, one good solution to a lack of micro nutrients is the Flora series Micro Blast which I believe is also a GN product.

The only real reason for the one time without nutrients every third watering is to minimize salt build up in the soil to avoid ph/toxicity issues. If a product is organically based rather then chemically based, salt build ups are less likely.
 

rando

Member
Ok, I have another question...

Due to circumstances beyond my control, I may have to harvest my plants earlier than planned. I'm at day 11 of flowering and the manufacture says 45-50 days for flower (I intentionally bought a strain that was supposed to be quick in flowering - white skunk). I realize that the seller's time is not always accurate, etc. Anyway, if I could harvest them by May 1st that would be very good. That would be about 35 days of flowering. I can *maybe* get another week, but that's iffy.

Is there any way to make them flower faster? Even if it is compromise of the quality, it may be worth it. I guess my question is, what can I do to get the best quality possible in 35-40 days of flowering time? I thought I read somewhere that less hours of light would flower them more quickly, but I'm not sure if that is true or not.

I know that flowering longer would be optimal, but the fact is that I just might not be able to - so answers that involve "just flower them longer" are not helpful... :p
 

2stoge

Member
I have an old cast iron sink (basin?) that is covered with porcelain that has cracks in it (the porcelain not he cast iron). Can this still be used as a reservoir even if it has some rust coming though? Can anyone foresee any potential problems with this? (Iron burn? if thats even possible) BTW this is for a DIY aero that is in the works. Thanks
 

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