Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[Cannacreep]

The flouros in my veg room are on 20/4 with them off in the middle of the day to keep temps down. My room is not light proof. I often go in there to work or just admire when lights are off and just turn them on while I'm there. Could this cause my plants to hermi? I also just started having a problem with aphids. I spray neem oil on my plants once a week but doesn't seem to get rid of them. They don't seem to be on the plants so much as the pots. I'm trying to be organic with my nuts and controls. Any help?

 

[HempKat]

The flouros in my veg room are on 20/4 with them off in the middle of the day to keep temps down. My room is not light proof. I often go in there to work or just admire when lights are off and just turn them on while I'm there. Could this cause my plants to hermi? I also just started having a problem with aphids. I spray neem oil on my plants once a week but doesn't seem to get rid of them. They don't seem to be on the plants so much as the pots. I'm trying to be organic with my nuts and controls. Any help?

No when your plants are in veg light leaks are not an issue. The hermie problem only crops up in flower because the plants key off the length of the dark period to determine when to flower. Once they start flowering if you have a light leak interupting the dark period then your plants will try to revert back to veg and this is what stresses them because they're not really getting enough light to go back to veg and yet they're not getting enough dark to keep flowering either. That being said it's best if you break the habit of interupting their dark period right now so you'll be less tempted to keep doing it when they are in flower and interupting them might cause a problem.

As for the Aphids neem oil is probably not the best choice. There are other folks who follow this thread that have more experience with them then I do (I've never had them to the best of my knowledge) so hopefully they'll chime in with suggestions.

This might be a good thread to look at. The problem turned out to be more then just Aphids but there is alot of discussion about Aphids and advice on things to use.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=196668

 

[Billy Burroughs]

Personally I can't believe that no one has told you to just scrap that fire hazard. I know your insurance salesman would shit Tiffany cuff links if he or she were to see that contraption mounted on your wall. Please use some common sense think about it exposed ballast mounted on wall where at any moment one wrong touch and zap! spark possibly fire shorting out your houses breaker box. frying a transistor although with just a 250 watt light I hardly doubt it would do all that but still thats obviously not safe one bit. It's not worth saving a hundred bucks to rick burning down your home or worse killing or maiming yourself or any of your family members or house mates!
Go out and buy a new light but this time, but one thats a separate ballast from the hood like a 400watt or more. I suggest a 1000 watt at least one if not 3 like I run. All in aluminum fin vented boxes to cool them. Totally enclosed not open and jimmy rigged like what your trying to throw together. Please don't tell me you got more than one plant under that small light. It take 50 watts of light to properly light a Sq foot of a grow room. So if your grow room is 10' X 6' like mine is thats 600 Sq Ft. Multiply that by 50 you come out with 3000. So i need to hang 3000 watts of whatever lighting configuration I choose as long as there is 3k watts of light hanging above that garden.
So for your little 250 watt to be in an efficient setting it would need to be placed in 0.5 Sq Ft room. No where can you properly run this light. It is 100% worthless and definitely not worth your safety or anyone else around yous safety.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Personally I can't believe that no one has told you to just scrap that fire hazard. I know your insurance salesman would shit Tiffany cuff links if he or she were to see that contraption mounted on your wall. Please use some common sense think about it exposed ballast mounted on wall where at any moment one wrong touch and zap! spark possibly fire shorting out your houses breaker box. frying a transistor although with just a 250 watt light I hardly doubt it would do all that but still thats obviously not safe one bit.

IMO, it's a fine ballast. Take a look at the pic, it's brand new. No exposed wiring or component leads (excepting coil.) I've seen some high-end audio gear with point to point wiring and this ballast appears to be quality assembly. There's no transistor on the ballast to fry.

It's not worth saving a hundred bucks to rick burning down your home or worse killing or maiming yourself or any of your family members or house mates!
Go out and buy a new light but this time, but one thats a separate ballast from the hood like a 400watt or more. I suggest a 1000 watt at least one if not 3 like I run. All in aluminum fin vented boxes to cool them. Totally enclosed not open and jimmy rigged like what your trying to throw together. Please don't tell me you got more than one plant under that small light. It take 50 watts of light to properly light a Sq foot of a grow room. So if your grow room is 10' X 6' like mine is thats 600 Sq Ft. Multiply that by 50 you come out with 3000. So i need to hang 3000 watts of whatever lighting configuration I choose as long as there is 3k watts of light hanging above that garden.
So for your little 250 watt to be in an efficient setting it would need to be placed in 0.5 Sq Ft room. No where can you properly run this light.

I love you Bill but your 50 watt tip means he can rock 5 square feet. What's with the 600 ft room and 3000 watts? Maybe you're not familiar with cab, tent or closet grows

.5 square feet is 12" x 6" or facsimile. With a 250, that would be 500 wpsf. That's an ez bake oven.

It is 100% worthless and definitely not worth your safety or anyone else around yous safety.

Billy, are you feeling ok? Goozman can get a qp easy. Close to half pound dialed in, maybe more with a good yielder.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Kinda wasted at the moment

Kinda wasted at the moment

but even though I like Disco always, I agree with Bill, I think. LOL / Get something set up thats approved. Fire safety is one of Our Main concerns. If Your in a Bad state thats not cool with canna, then Your in even more trouble.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

but even though I like Disco always, I agree with Bill, I think. LOL / Get something set up thats approved. Fire safety is one of Our Main concerns. If Your in a Bad state thats not cool with canna, then Your in even more trouble.

Hi Doc, looks like hydrofarm to me. I recognize that removing the hood exposes the capacitor. A discharged cap can cause serious pain or worse. Goozman's cap has an insulated hood so this isn't likely to occur unless removed. The ballast will operate cooler outside the hood.

We've got a well respected member that spared no expense in their remote conversion. Poor guy wired a male plug to the x-former output, lol. I mentioned swapping his plugs so the load would be protected with the female socket.

The guy said he did it intentionally. He'd rather get a shock than have a bulb explode in his face if and when he inadvertently plugged the bulb into a wall socket.

 

[GoozMan]

Thanks for playing D discobiscuit. In fact the shed is just under 3 sq. ft. And there will be 2 of these bad boys lighting up the place I'm going vertical in a tall skinny shed and I think these lights will be perfect. And thanks again phil2005

 

[Cannacreep]

No when your plants are in veg light leaks are not an issue. The hermie problem only crops up in flower because the plants key off the length of the dark period to determine when to flower. Once they start flowering if you have a light leak interupting the dark period then your plants will try to revert back to veg and this is what stresses them because they're not really getting enough light to go back to veg and yet they're not getting enough dark to keep flowering either. That being said it's best if you break the habit of interupting their dark period right now so you'll be less tempted to keep doing it when they are in flower and interupting them might cause a problem.

As for the Aphids neem oil is probably not the best choice. There are other folks who follow this thread that have more experience with them then I do (I've never had them to the best of my knowledge) so hopefully they'll chime in with suggestions.

This might be a good thread to look at. The problem turned out to be more then just Aphids but there is alot of discussion about Aphids and advice on things to use.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=196668

Thanks Hempkat. That thread was very helpful. Unfortunatly now I'm pretty sure I have those dreaded Root aphids. Looks like a trip to the store for imid. I hope they have it. I've never seen it before.

 

[DizzyGround]

Hello.
I need help from you old zen growers.

Im growing super lemon haze and the plants are very dark green in color. Even some clawing in the leaves, one plant has very much of clawing in the upper leaves and lanky grow.

They are growin in aero with ec of 0.8-1 and ph 5.8
Atm the PH is dropping down and thats not a good sign either. Ec doesn't change too much, maybe a little bit going up. But 0.8 ec and ec going up is not nice. If the problem is with nitrogen, it must be the cause why ph going down and ec up.

I changed water 1 week ago and gave them very very low dose of nitrogen. It looks a bit better now but I'm not even nearly happy.

Can't give you pictures but very dark green and leaves clawing downwards.

It looks like the leaves are full of N. I gave them veg nutes for 2 first week of flower, maybe they got too much there. Now its allmost 3 weeks 12/12.

Using AHH nutes with silicate + cannazym (eats dead roots and other shit as i used to have root problems earlier). I'm wondering if cannazym dilutes shit into nitrogen also. I've seen this problem on maybe every grower with SLH but I have it in bigger scale and dont like it at all!

So.
Should I flush again and give ZERO nitrogen and some p-k or flush with ph'ed water for one day and then add pk and very carefully nitrogen?

Any help is very much appreciated!

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Hello.
I need help from you old zen growers.

Im growing super lemon haze and the plants are very dark green in color. Even some clawing in the leaves, one plant has very much of clawing in the upper leaves and lanky grow.

Ram horn. Too much N can delay flower.

They are growin in aero with ec of 0.8-1 and ph 5.8
Atm the PH is dropping down and thats not a good sign either. Ec doesn't change too much, maybe a little bit going up. But 0.8 ec and ec going up is not nice. If the problem is with nitrogen, it must be the cause why ph going down and ec up.

Your plant has enough nutes (for the time being) and is absorbing mostly water. In this case, EC doesn't drop and may rise if the condition persists. In your case, pH drop IS a good sign. It coincides with your situation. Your EC isn't too high but you still have to wean N.

I changed water 1 week ago and gave them very very low dose of nitrogen. It looks a bit better now but I'm not even nearly happy.

N is exacerbating the ram horn and dark green color.

Can't give you pictures but very dark green and leaves clawing downwards.

Classic N toxicity.

It looks like the leaves are full of N. I gave them veg nutes for 2 first week of flower, maybe they got too much there. Now its allmost 3 weeks 12/12.

I was hoping you were in veg. Don't worry about new growth appearing less green. N is a mobile element and old growth will supply new growth. Expect old growth fade, this is normal. Expect new growth to be lighter green than old. N absorption and photosynthesis take time to enrich new growth.

N doesn't taste good, leaves black ash and your harvest may "crackle" in the bowl.

Plain water until the ram horn subsides. You need a flower formula that's very light on N (or none at all.) If you start to see old growth yellowing in mid-late flower, this is what you want but it'll take a while.

Using AHH nutes with silicate + cannazym (eats dead roots and other shit as i used to have root problems earlier). I'm wondering if cannazym dilutes shit into nitrogen also. I've seen this problem on maybe every grower with SLH but I have it in bigger scale and dont like it at all!

If you can run w/o slime or rot, discontinue cannazym. If you have to use it, try half your normal amount and work from there.

So.
Should I flush again and give ZERO nitrogen and some p-k or flush with ph'ed water for one day and then add pk and very carefully nitrogen?

Any help is very much appreciated!

Zero N because you're 3 weeks in flower. N-less flower nutes may help the plant process the excess N but no guarantee. In addition, your flower nutes may contain micro elements necessary for flowering.

I don't know if cannazym is contributing to the N overload. Try the search for cannazym, search title first, then text if you don't see cannazym in a title or don't get the info you need..

 

[DizzyGround]

Thank you very much for the help.

Yes I can run without cannazym now as my res temps are 19c. Roots are all white.

So plain water, no p-k? Yes, allmost 3 weeks in flower.. I hope it doesn't affect too much to the harvest. 10+ weeks strain.

How about the bloom formula, where should I try to search for one?

AHH bloom is only p-k but I have no idea about the macro elements.

Actually as I have been trying to lower the N all the time for one week (not total flush but changed some of the waters) the oldest leaves are getting a nice green color and dark green is fading. But new growth is deep dark.

EDIT: about p-k with flush. So u think its not bad to use no nutes at all, its still 3 weeks into flower and they are starting to bloom. I mean if the bloom nutes suddenly disappear from the roots? Or does the plant have enough p-k nutes also as its so dank green?

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

You're welcome, Diz. Ten plus weeks is good news. N contributes to plant size and vigor, it's not a major contributor to flowering. In fact, it delays flowering. That's not to say you can flower w/o N at all. It just depends on strain and possibly other conditions.

Sorry, I can't say for sure about plain water or N-less nutes atm. Obviously you'll need flower nutes and micros but when is the detail because of N tox.

NPK is macro. Ca and Mg are micros but mj is a hog for these two. Classic micros are iron, sulfer, zinc, etc.

Check out the label of the nutes you're using. You'll get an idea of what micros are needed for each stage of growth.

Example of macro vs micro - your label will specify the %. N may be 7% and sulfer may be .005 percent.

Older growth fade from dark green is a positive sign. It's a little unusual to have richer green new growth but sounds like your N is moving upward. Those dark green tops won't flower as fast but you have to wean and this is all you can do at this point.

Go ahead and add flower nutes but keep an eye on the N symptoms. I'd have to observe plain water vs flower nutes to say for sure, (depends on how much additional N.) And the plain water tip is only temporary and if the plant shows negative signs from flower nutes (continued ram horn.) Best wishes with your grow.

 

[DizzyGround]

Thanks again DiscoBiscuit.

Yeah i forgot which is which with macro and micro.

Actually only thing I can find about advanced hydroponics of holland is that "This component contains all essential microelements."

Bottle tells only n-p-k..

These nutes are making me mad, i've got some real problems with them. Gonna use GHE 3 part next time.

I will atleast start flushing now and the flower nutes.. dont know yet.

AHH micro is 40-0-0 or something so I really dont want to add that. But dunno what micro elements does bloom contain.. sigh.

 

[DizzyGround]

-

 

[McDanger]

calmag during flush

calmag during flush

My basic question is, do I need to add calmag or magical which is what I have, when I am flushing with RO water. I am about 10 days from harvest and am wondering if this will cause a problem using just straight RO water with no magical added.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Harvest flush? If so, I'd go plain water.

If you're not rockin' a Mg hog, you can likely go wire-to-wire w/o Mg supps (even with RO.) But pH has to be dialed-in because Mg is trace. Not as much room for pH imperfection as NPK. If pH isn't correct, adding CalMag may do nothing but build up.

IMO, excess N and Mg contribute to poor taste when smoking. In my experience, Mg defs in flower typically occur in early flower. This is why I stop Mg supps after 21 days for 8 to 10 week flowering strains.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks Hempkat. That thread was very helpful. Unfortunatly now I'm pretty sure I have those dreaded Root aphids. Looks like a trip to the store for imid. I hope they have it. I've never seen it before.

Well if your local store doesn't have it there's always online.

 

[HempKat]

IMO, it's a fine ballast. Take a look at the pic, it's brand new. No exposed wiring or component leads (excepting coil.) I've seen some high-end audio gear with point to point wiring and this ballast appears to be quality assembly. There's no transistor on the ballast to fry.

I love you Bill but your 50 watt tip means he can rock 5 square feet. What's with the 600 ft room and 3000 watts? Maybe you're not familiar with cab, tent or closet grows

.5 square feet is 12" x 6" or facsimile. With a 250, that would be 500 wpsf. That's an ez bake oven.

Billy, are you feeling ok? Goozman can get a qp easy. Close to half pound dialed in, maybe more with a good yielder.

I think what Billy was trying to express is that for safety it's best not to try to cut corners on DIY lights or anything electrical. Too many times people have caused fires trying to save a few bucks and then that history tarnishes the community as now those against us can point to such unsafe practices.

I would normally give the same advice as Billy if the person didn't have the equipment yet. Since it appeared he had the equipment already it seemed better to just agree with the directions in the link you provided.

As for the rest of it, well I think Billy was just a bit off in his math. That happens to stoners alot.

 

[HempKat]

Hello.
I need help from you old zen growers.

Im growing super lemon haze and the plants are very dark green in color. Even some clawing in the leaves, one plant has very much of clawing in the upper leaves and lanky grow.

They are growin in aero with ec of 0.8-1 and ph 5.8
Atm the PH is dropping down and thats not a good sign either. Ec doesn't change too much, maybe a little bit going up. But 0.8 ec and ec going up is not nice. If the problem is with nitrogen, it must be the cause why ph going down and ec up.

I changed water 1 week ago and gave them very very low dose of nitrogen. It looks a bit better now but I'm not even nearly happy.

Can't give you pictures but very dark green and leaves clawing downwards.

It looks like the leaves are full of N. I gave them veg nutes for 2 first week of flower, maybe they got too much there. Now its allmost 3 weeks 12/12.

Using AHH nutes with silicate + cannazym (eats dead roots and other shit as i used to have root problems earlier). I'm wondering if cannazym dilutes shit into nitrogen also. I've seen this problem on maybe every grower with SLH but I have it in bigger scale and dont like it at all!

So.
Should I flush again and give ZERO nitrogen and some p-k or flush with ph'ed water for one day and then add pk and very carefully nitrogen?

Any help is very much appreciated!

Definately too much N, super dark green leaves and clawing leaves are classic N toxicity signs. Ideally in Flower, N should be the smallest number in your NPK. P should be the highest and the K should be less and the N should be less then that. 10-30-20 or 1-3-2 would be an example of a decent flower fert NPK.

I'd flush with just water and then the next watering/feeding go back to your normal nutrient routine minus whatever is raising the N so high. I saw you mention somewhere that something was 40-0-0 that sounds like your nitrogen problem right there.

 

[HempKat]

My basic question is, do I need to add calmag or magical which is what I have, when I am flushing with RO water. I am about 10 days from harvest and am wondering if this will cause a problem using just straight RO water with no magical added.

10 days from harvest just flush with water.