Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?
- Thread starter HempKat
- Start date
Bio Bizz is a good product and an organic one. It's a popular brand amoung growers. Being organic you don't have to be as careful with the dosage, for that one I'd go by whatever the bottle suggests. The advice you were given before was based on you using that tomato plant food you mention. Those types of ferts are typically chemical in nature and plants can uptake chemical nutes right away. Organic nutes have to be broken down some before the plant can uptake them. That's why the reduced strength. Also when it was suggested not to feed them that was just for the moment because the person who said that felt they looked fine for now. I think also he was suggesting for now to keep it super simple by not adding a bunch of ferts since you're new.
When a new person asks for advice, especially on things like what ferts to use, people will gladly answer but most people have thier own preferences. So a new person can very easily end up becoming overwhelmed with info and end up over doing things. Now you also asked if it's nute sensitive. If the BB in auto BB means Blueberry then yes, it very well could be nute sensitive Blueberry had/has a reputation for being nute sensitive. Again though being that Bio Bizz is an organic based product it wouldn't be as harsh as other chemical based brands might be.
Hempy i can understand where your coming from i have learnt so much rom this sight but your right each to ones own only reason i used the tomato fert is because i had nothing else but my bio bizz came today and i will feed them on the w/e i havent gone silly as yes my plants are blueberry i have been very careful how i feed them , just was wondering if using the bio bizz will make much or if any diff or maybe just leave it for the next grow
Well tomato fert isn't necessarily bad. In fact it's usually recommended that if you only have places like a hardware store to get your supplies from then look for tomato fertalizer as the tomato plant is very similar to a marijuana plant and as such has similar nutritional needs.
As for the Bio Bizz, you'll probably need to feed your plants at least a couple of times before they're done and if so I'd use the Bio Bizz. I mean assuming your strain of Blueberry is also nute sensitive (there are a number of variations of Blueberry out there) then an organic food would be the best to go with as it would be less likely to be too much for your plants.
thanks hemp you been the most helpful person on here i appreciate it 
so im gonna go with bio bizz normal feed as stated on the instruction happy days cant wait to see how it goes i will keep you updated think last time i fed them with nutes was monday so tomorrow will be a good time to do it
so im gonna go with bio bizz normal feed as stated on the instruction happy days cant wait to see how it goes i will keep you updated think last time i fed them with nutes was monday so tomorrow will be a good time to do it
thanks hemp you been the most helpful person on here i appreciate it
I would add that since you're concerned about the sensitivity to nutes, watch your plants after the feeding and if you notice signs of nutrient burn then back off on the dosage the next time. You shouldn't have to, I doubt the suggested dose of that stuff will be anything other then good for the plant.
sorry nope, not correct.
depending on the size and age of the plant, bio bizz combinations are rather too high as it is beeing advised on the bottle, especially the biobizz grow bottle with mainly molasses is rather strong. ( I wouldnt go higher than Ec 2.0 Ms for a well sized budder in the final stages. wich is half from what is advised on the bottle in that stage)
When using bio bizz i'd recommend half the dosis as what is given on the bottle or growformula, and depending of growing in pot or open medium i'd give clean water inbetween more often than feed water.
depending on the size and age of the plant, bio bizz combinations are rather too high as it is beeing advised on the bottle, especially the biobizz grow bottle with mainly molasses is rather strong. ( I wouldnt go higher than Ec 2.0 Ms for a well sized budder in the final stages. wich is half from what is advised on the bottle in that stage)
When using bio bizz i'd recommend half the dosis as what is given on the bottle or growformula, and depending of growing in pot or open medium i'd give clean water inbetween more often than feed water.
Well there's no guessing to it, Bio Bizz is organic. To say organic can't burn them is wrong, organics are less likely to burn but they can burn. The person who posted before this (offthehook) seems to be familiar with the product though so maybe you should follow his advice? I hope though that he's paying attention and noticed you're in flower and so are using the bloom formula rather then the grow formula and that you're in soil.
im guessing i got about 3 weeks instead of two what ya reckon peeps
I'd say at least 3 weeks, probably more. It's hard to tell though because the heat stress the plant has obviously been under may have slowed things down making the plant appear less further along in flower then it is.
It's hard to say for sure without seeing them. Sounds like spider mites although I wouldn't describe spider mites as fuzzy looking. The thing is unless you are fairly sure what they are it's hard to know what treatment is best for getting rid of them.
I'd say you better hope they aren't spider mites because they're very difficult to get rid of. Anyway this thread here covers alot of issues a plant can have including pest which are towards the end. See if you can match up the pests on your plant with the ones in the pictures and if so follow the advice for the ones they match.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Hey Hemp and all... I've been out of the loop with life kicking me around some, I was going to send this off-forum but maybe someone else can benefit from it so...
I've been run thru the ringer on my little farm lately. First it was the mites, (which so far haven't returned) then the odd brown spots and general lack of vigor (remember your advice about air flow and lower lighting?) After observing, reading, paying attention I found out that I developed a root aphid problem and that it most likely came from contaminated soil i've bought around here. (local diy store fox farms stuff) Add to that I was out of town for a week and had a cooling fan failure in my flower cab and burnt the tops of a crop, they'll survive but they are looking sad and don't expect much of them now
To get to the point, I "think" I finally have the root aphids beat back... from the giant root aphid thread on here I went with some Imid and I think that did the trick. My question is, (you being a long time dirt farmer) have you ever had the experience of your runoff water having a 'rotten' smell? 2 of my small pots have a peculiar smell in the water that runs off. This is different soil that I went with after finding out all my other stuff was contaminated. The smell didn't start out at the beginning but developed afterward. I'm still having a noticable lack of vigor and growth, all I can do is hang in there with these girls and see what happens. Today I took them outside and quenched the pots with several buckets of water, literally 'washed out' the soil, seeing if that helps any.
What, if any, is your take on this? After a few successful runs it now seems like I'm stuggling constantly and almost ready to trash everything and start all over.
I've been run thru the ringer on my little farm lately. First it was the mites, (which so far haven't returned) then the odd brown spots and general lack of vigor (remember your advice about air flow and lower lighting?) After observing, reading, paying attention I found out that I developed a root aphid problem and that it most likely came from contaminated soil i've bought around here. (local diy store fox farms stuff) Add to that I was out of town for a week and had a cooling fan failure in my flower cab and burnt the tops of a crop, they'll survive but they are looking sad and don't expect much of them now
To get to the point, I "think" I finally have the root aphids beat back... from the giant root aphid thread on here I went with some Imid and I think that did the trick. My question is, (you being a long time dirt farmer) have you ever had the experience of your runoff water having a 'rotten' smell? 2 of my small pots have a peculiar smell in the water that runs off. This is different soil that I went with after finding out all my other stuff was contaminated. The smell didn't start out at the beginning but developed afterward. I'm still having a noticable lack of vigor and growth, all I can do is hang in there with these girls and see what happens. Today I took them outside and quenched the pots with several buckets of water, literally 'washed out' the soil, seeing if that helps any.
What, if any, is your take on this? After a few successful runs it now seems like I'm stuggling constantly and almost ready to trash everything and start all over.
I agree with HK, and if you decide they're spider mites, I'd recommend this stuff...
http://www.amazon.com/Doktor-Doom-K...1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1279497872&sr=8-1
I tried Neem and SM-90 It helped, but never got completely rid of them. I've been mite free for months now with doktor doom, even though the summer environment i have is perfect for them again. Once you get them you see how bad they are and Ive learned since, a little prevention has kept them away.
Be thankful you dont have root aphids, they're even worse.
Hey Hemp and all... I've been out of the loop with life kicking me around some, I was going to send this off-forum but maybe someone else can benefit from it so...
I've been run thru the ringer on my little farm lately. First it was the mites, (which so far haven't returned) then the odd brown spots and general lack of vigor (remember your advice about air flow and lower lighting?) After observing, reading, paying attention I found out that I developed a root aphid problem and that it most likely came from contaminated soil i've bought around here. (local diy store fox farms stuff) Add to that I was out of town for a week and had a cooling fan failure in my flower cab and burnt the tops of a crop, they'll survive but they are looking sad and don't expect much of them now
To get to the point, I "think" I finally have the root aphids beat back... from the giant root aphid thread on here I went with some Imid and I think that did the trick. My question is, (you being a long time dirt farmer) have you ever had the experience of your runoff water having a 'rotten' smell? 2 of my small pots have a peculiar smell in the water that runs off. This is different soil that I went with after finding out all my other stuff was contaminated. The smell didn't start out at the beginning but developed afterward. I'm still having a noticable lack of vigor and growth, all I can do is hang in there with these girls and see what happens. Today I took them outside and quenched the pots with several buckets of water, literally 'washed out' the soil, seeing if that helps any.
What, if any, is your take on this? After a few successful runs it now seems like I'm stuggling constantly and almost ready to trash everything and start all over.
Well generally something smelling rotten from the pots is a sign of root rot usually caused by over watering but also caused by having one pot with soil more compacted then others. In either case the wet soil is just sitting there stagnent and the roots are being smothered by it, so they begin to rot and that's what smells. Now it is also possible that it's the soil because you had to switch up but since it sounded like it built up over time that's more like root rot would be.
The washing out you did was probably a good move to get as much of the funky stuff out of there as possible but now you really got to be careful not to water them too much, they likely will take longer between waterings until they recover. You're probably right about your harvest projections.
Overall it kind of sounds like you need a break but not just because a person can get in a rut but more because growing in the summer is always tougher and having a sub par crop isn't really unusual. Better to just try to build up enough to allow yourself to take the summer off. Less headaches and disappointments all the way around.
Now if taking a break isn't possible then just keep in mind that in the summer your indoor grow is going to be tested as hard as it will ever be. So since you'll always have this stress kind of present you really have to dot all your i's and cross all your t's on everything else. Take nothing for granted. If a soil seems wrong somehow don't use it. If you're using left over ferts just because it always lowered your ph a certain amount before, don't assume the ph level of it hasn't changed with age. Things like that.
2
2Lazy
I have a question.
The last 2 grows of mine have gone splendidly during veg. 40+ days of lush, green, healthy vegetation top to bottom.
I don't change anything but my light cycle, but as soon as I do suddenly all these effing problems start showing up.
Usually it starts as a kind of potassium issue. Then it's a magnesium issue. Then it's a phosphorus issue.
My feeding is the same, do my plant's really need that much more crap during flowering? It always appears as a deficiency despite running at the maximum suggested levels from Canna (Coco). The idea that "less is more" in flowering really has screwed my plants, especially in the last grow.
So basically, I've got veg down pat. With 6 grows under my belt I still haven't figured out what the fuck is going on in flowering. So I search and search for nutrient feeding schedules that actual people use (not what is from the mfg) and low and behold, not a single good one in 4 forums I've looked and searched through.
People list what they use, sure, and they'll throw out some arbitrary PPM EC info, but it never really gets specific.
Do you need an ass load of potassium in week 1 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of magnesium in weeks 2 and 3 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of phosphorus in weeks 4 and 5 like I do?
If someone around here would PLEASE look at http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3704978&postcount=269 that might really help me out.
So what regiments do you use? When do you increase or decrease specific supplements, and specifically how much? I've been searching for weeks now for a definitive answer on flowering methods from growers and not a single person can give a detailed analysis.
Thanks. Oh, and if I kill this thread too I am sorry. I have a tendency to scare off experienced growers and killing threads. I can't count how many times I've been the last person to post in something around here.
The last 2 grows of mine have gone splendidly during veg. 40+ days of lush, green, healthy vegetation top to bottom.
I don't change anything but my light cycle, but as soon as I do suddenly all these effing problems start showing up.
Usually it starts as a kind of potassium issue. Then it's a magnesium issue. Then it's a phosphorus issue.
My feeding is the same, do my plant's really need that much more crap during flowering? It always appears as a deficiency despite running at the maximum suggested levels from Canna (Coco). The idea that "less is more" in flowering really has screwed my plants, especially in the last grow.
So basically, I've got veg down pat. With 6 grows under my belt I still haven't figured out what the fuck is going on in flowering. So I search and search for nutrient feeding schedules that actual people use (not what is from the mfg) and low and behold, not a single good one in 4 forums I've looked and searched through.
People list what they use, sure, and they'll throw out some arbitrary PPM EC info, but it never really gets specific.
Do you need an ass load of potassium in week 1 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of magnesium in weeks 2 and 3 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of phosphorus in weeks 4 and 5 like I do?
If someone around here would PLEASE look at http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3704978&postcount=269 that might really help me out.
So what regiments do you use? When do you increase or decrease specific supplements, and specifically how much? I've been searching for weeks now for a definitive answer on flowering methods from growers and not a single person can give a detailed analysis.
Thanks. Oh, and if I kill this thread too I am sorry. I have a tendency to scare off experienced growers and killing threads. I can't count how many times I've been the last person to post in something around here.
Spanishwilly
Member
The mite discussion could get lengthy, and there are plenty of them on the site, but I want to give my 2 pfennigs real fast...
Spinosad. It is a great product that is organic certified. A repeated treatment for 2-3 weeks will take care of the mites. Repeated treatments will get the mites that hatch out after the first treatments (only kills live bugs). Works well for caterpillars and most other unwanted canna leaf pests.
Spinosad. It is a great product that is organic certified. A repeated treatment for 2-3 weeks will take care of the mites. Repeated treatments will get the mites that hatch out after the first treatments (only kills live bugs). Works well for caterpillars and most other unwanted canna leaf pests.
2
2Lazy
Thanks, but no, not really.
I think what you linked is the problem I'm having, not the solution. Maybe buried somewhere in those 81 pages is something good, I'm just hoping that I don't need to click "next page" and read about personal vendetta's, hearsay, and useless one line posts with a mile of sig beneath it. I'll be honest with you all. This site is half barren waste land, half over-flowering junk yard, and the search function doesn't work well enough to manage it all. Hell, google search brings up better results than forum searches.
I'm looking for specific levels of nutrients during specific phases of growth.
The general sort of "6ml of this and 9ml" is fine... but for what point in the grow? I assume for late veg and early flowering.
What I'm looking for is for an experienced grower to try and give me some idea of where the nutrients need to be at in their own grow on practically a day to day basis. When they change, what they change to, that sort of thing. I can concede that there are different strains, and all kinds of nutrients, media, methods, etc.
What I'm looking to do is get out of reactionary mode and move in to anticipatory mode. Every grow I get closer to the gold standard, but it'd be nice to hear from someone that on the average "around the end of the 2nd week of vegetative life I supplement a large amount of cal-mag. I do this again for the first 3 weeks of flowering with a little nitrogen boost as well." I mean, maybe not in so many (or few) words, but something like that would be extremely beneficial to myself, an advanced grower working on mastery.
I don't think a 6ml/9ml solution is what anyone would run for the entire grow. There's a seedling stage. There's a ripening stage. What do they run then? Why does no one seem to think this information is important? I like to think of myself as a fairly intelligent guy with a high level understanding of both chemistry and biology. I want to know what you add, when, and why. Not for just one moment of the grow. Start to finish.
As an example: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3668339&postcount=60
Please take the time to check out the post I made. If you read through it you'll see the kind of "format" I'm looking for. I wrote it 14 days ago. So that gives you an idea of how long I've been looking...
Thanks homies.
