Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[HempKat]

my seedlings are about 8-9 days old..under a 400 w hps..the thing is I had ants in there,and they killed 4 of them..the rest that survived,had their cotyledons completely eaten off,and half of there first set of serrated leaves..now I placed them in a tub of water to drown the ants..so will getting their cotyledons and half of the leaves eaten stunt them..or will they just keep on growing there next set of leaves like normal?

Once you get that first set of leaves after the cotyledons the cotyledons generally die off anyway so losing those shouldn't make a big difference. You may experience a temporary stunting or slow down of growth simply because the plant has less leaf to draw in energy from the light. Once it can put out some more leaves though it should continue to grow like normal, provided the ants are gone. You may want to try something like the No Pest Stripe made by hotshot. I don't know if they work for ants but I know they work for things like fungus gnats and other insect pests. They only cost a few dollars and generally provide 3 months of protection.

 

[Rooster449]

Thanks Again Hempcat I looking forward to hearing what you have to say when I post my Pixs of my little grow Room. The 449 comes from a page in the Big Book, Im 20 years sober and just love life as of now. But that dont mean I cant grow some great Weed And Pass It Around LOL LOL

Rooster449

 

[HempKat]

i've never heard that you shouldnt let rainwater set for more than a day to use on crops..please xplain that..i've picked up several tips that have already helped me from this thread..thanks

Any water, whether it be rain water, tap water, well water, bottled water if it is sitting stagnent but exposed to air it can get funky. More so the rainwater though because it has those microorganisms in it. If the water sits stagnent too long those things will die off and the water will get funky and begin to develope an unpleasent odor. Tap water or bottled water is less likely to do this because it's been processed and treated. Now I don't mean to imply that if you let rainwater set for more then a day it's guarenteed to go bad but there is no reason to let it sit. The only water that needs to be allowed to sit for a day before using is water from the tap that's been chemically treated, especially if treated with chlorine. You want to let that sit because the chlorine will essentially evaporate after a day. Rainwater being untreated doesn't need to sit. Now if you're wanting to let it sit because you've collected alot and don't need it all for one watering then you can do that but I'd reccomend putting it in a lightproof container (lightproof to keep algea from forming) but with oxygen feeding into it thru and air pump and air stone like they use in aquariums. I myself use well water which is untreated so I don't need to let it sit for a day to get rid of chlorine. However if I let it sit for just a day or two without oxygen it develops an almost slimey coating on the surface and if I let it go longer without oxygen some sort of mold or fungus starts to form. So I use and air pump and stone like I suggested and doing it that way I can let it set for weeks without it getting slimey or developing mold or fungus. This works out well for me because where my grow is located there isn't easy access to water and to have to bring water each time I need it is a hassle. So I have a big 40 gallon tub I keep near my growroom and I just fill that via a hose and then I use the pump and air stone in that to keep it from getting bad on me because it generally takes a week or two to use up that tub of water.

I also like to do this because I feel by pumping air into the water constantly the water stays richer in oxygen and therefore is better for the roots when I water the plants. Although that's just my feeling, I have no documented proof of this.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks Again Hempcat I looking forward to hearing what you have to say when I post my Pixs of my little grow Room. The 449 comes from a page in the Big Book, Im 20 years sober and just love life as of now. But that dont mean I cant grow some great Weed And Pass It Around LOL LOL

Rooster449

Nope, nothing wrong with passing around good weed but that's alot of risk just to pass around good weed. Risk to both your sobriety and your freedom if you live in the wrong part of the world.

 

[Rooster449]

Right Now Im Just Doing It Ti See If I Can. My Sobriety Is Doing Good. But Thanks For The Concern. And All The Advice In Your Posts Have Helped Out So Much. Keep Up The Good Work.

Rooster449

 

[MobbDeep]

most plants are already growing new leaves..the thing im worried about is if they will stunt cus theyr trying to heal all the cut leaves and stuff...kinda like when you top them?...or does cuttign leaves not matter.?

 

[Weezard]

I wish!

I wish!

Aloha HempKat,

You said:

"You may want to try something like the No Pest Stripe made by hotshot. I don't know if they work for ants"

I used NPS for fungus gnats and "the borg."
They work very well and are quite safe for mammals.
My ants, however, don't even notice.

Had 4 potted clones start to look funky in the veg room.
All 4 had nests of small golden ants.
We have about 4000 kine ants here and I can only give personal experience on the little golden ones, but the NPS says it's specific to flying pests so I'm not gonna write to HotShot and complain.

I learn much by lurking here.

Aloha nui,
Weeze

 

[Gold123]

Plain old vinegar around the area will kill them and wash away their trails but dont use in your pots any of the pyrithrium killers should work in the soil, or neem oil or organicide. You can pour organocided in the soil. It's made of sesame and fish oils, ants arent listed on the lable but I think it will work as a drench.

 

[HempKat]

most plants are already growing new leaves..the thing im worried about is if they will stunt cus theyr trying to heal all the cut leaves and stuff...kinda like when you top them?...or does cuttign leaves not matter.?

It shouldn't stunt them like topping but to be honest it's hard to say without seeing what you're talking about. By the way even topping is only a temporary stumping of vertical growth. Given enough time the plant will keep growing as tall as the root system will support.

 

[HempKat]

Aloha HempKat,

You said:

"You may want to try something like the No Pest Stripe made by hotshot. I don't know if they work for ants"

I used NPS for fungus gnats and "the borg."
They work very well and are quite safe for mammals.
My ants, however, don't even notice.

Had 4 potted clones start to look funky in the veg room.
All 4 had nests of small golden ants.
We have about 4000 kine ants here and I can only give personal experience on the little golden ones, but the NPS says it's specific to flying pests so I'm not gonna write to HotShot and complain.

I learn much by lurking here.

Aloha nui,
Weeze

Ah well thanks for confirming that. I've never had that problem with ants so I was just guessing. Also usually I bug bomb where my grow is once a year usually which seems to help. Usually right around this time just before starting an indoor fall grow.

 

[Doobydan]

I have a question for you hemp if you'd be so kind to answer. I have a new strain im trying outdoors this year and I auto flowered it so it would finish three weeks than everything is supposed to around the midwest. I have a plant that is very dense and showing signs of having no mold resistance. The plant still needs 2 or 3 weeks to mature fully. I pulled some of the buds off that were molded a couple days ago dried them and had a toke, gets you buzzed but thats it not really high. Im losing more and more of the plant to mold as our season here is a wet one. I have it spaced out pulled apart and plenty of air movement but the buds are to think for this type of weather. Should I pull the plant now and try to make hash of it or should I just keep cutting what I can off it and waiting for my harvest date? Thanks in advance

 

[cosmiccowboy]

hemkat.gettin prepared to repot 5 northern lights that are in 3 gallon buckets and put them on 12/12..medium is pine bark fines,perlite,peat and dolomite lime @2tbsp per gallon..heres my dilemma..i've got bone meal,blood meal,alfalfa meal, kelp meal,compost and manure, and some miracle gro all purpose food...plants have yellow hue,especially lower stuff...started them off with the mg before i got all these other ingredients..think i fed then twice at 1/4 what package suggested..plants probably need the mg plant food but dont want to do that unless i have to...thats everything i have and no money to buy anything til the 1st....what do you suggest?......ps: got bone meal,blood meal,kelp meal,compost and manure,peat moss and lime "cookin" in preparation for next grow..wanna go as natural as i possibly can and try to learn somethin...also,do you put caps back on pop bottles that you have rooters with clones in?....about a month ago i put a thin layer of compost and manure in the top of buckets..it is 0.5-0.5-0.5.......also,in reference to repotting for final time in anticipation of plants goin into flowering stage..if it were you and this is all you had to work with.when you go to the 5 gal containers,what would you put in the bottom of bucket and fill it up with?...i really do appreciate yer help...enuff questions now heres a statement...you must live where its very hot if yer rain water gets moss and shit on it...i have noticed when it sets for a wk or so it turns sort of yellow lookin but figured it was pollen...i'm on page 85 of this thread and have learned so much...

 

[HempKat]

I have a question for you hemp if you'd be so kind to answer. I have a new strain im trying outdoors this year and I auto flowered it so it would finish three weeks than everything is supposed to around the midwest. I have a plant that is very dense and showing signs of having no mold resistance. The plant still needs 2 or 3 weeks to mature fully. I pulled some of the buds off that were molded a couple days ago dried them and had a toke, gets you buzzed but thats it not really high. Im losing more and more of the plant to mold as our season here is a wet one. I have it spaced out pulled apart and plenty of air movement but the buds are to think for this type of weather. Should I pull the plant now and try to make hash of it or should I just keep cutting what I can off it and waiting for my harvest date? Thanks in advance

Gee, that's a tough call. On one hand since it has 2-3 weeks to go it's all going to be weak and have that "just a buzz" quality, even if you make it into hash. On the other hand if you let it go you'll lose more to mold and there's no telling how much overall you'll lose.

Neither choice is really all that great. I'm inclined to say try to let it go a bit longer to let the quality of the resin mature. My concern though is moldy bud can be very harmful to your lungs and if more mold developes the greater the risk some will slip past your notice.

I guess I'd have to say let it go longer and try to stay on top of the mold and then when it's time to harvest maybe seperate the uneffect bud (if any) to smoke normally and then make hash out of the rest.

I don't know your situation but if it's possible to have a fan blowing on the plant when it's not raining that might help keep the mold from spreading. Mold needs not just moisture but also restricted air movement in order to develope.

 

[Rooster449]

OK tell me about my first Grow

OK tell me about my first Grow

Im growing in coco and started them as seeds that i dont no what they are LOL LOL But i am having fun growing them. I will be going to 12/12 this week, they are 6 weeks old now.


I just hope this works, I tryed putting my picks in before and it did not work, so let me no what you think of my Girls. More picks as they grow

 

[HempKat]

hemkat.gettin prepared to repot 5 northern lights that are in 3 gallon buckets and put them on 12/12..medium is pine bark fines,perlite,peat and dolomite lime @2tbsp per gallon..heres my dilemma..i've got bone meal,blood meal,alfalfa meal, kelp meal,compost and manure, and some miracle gro all purpose food...plants have yellow hue,especially lower stuff...started them off with the mg before i got all these other ingredients..think i fed then twice at 1/4 what package suggested..plants probably need the mg plant food but dont want to do that unless i have to...thats everything i have and no money to buy anything til the 1st....what do you suggest?......ps: got bone meal,blood meal,kelp meal,compost and manure,peat moss and lime "cookin" in preparation for next grow..wanna go as natural as i possibly can and try to learn somethin...also,do you put caps back on pop bottles that you have rooters with clones in?....about a month ago i put a thin layer of compost and manure in the top of buckets..it is 0.5-0.5-0.5.......also,in reference to repotting for final time in anticipation of plants goin into flowering stage..if it were you and this is all you had to work with.when you go to the 5 gal containers,what would you put in the bottom of bucket and fill it up with?...i really do appreciate yer help...enuff questions now heres a statement...you must live where its very hot if yer rain water gets moss and shit on it...i have noticed when it sets for a wk or so it turns sort of yellow lookin but figured it was pollen...i'm on page 85 of this thread and have learned so much...

Well it's hard to tell without seeing pictures and knowing all there is to know about your exact situation but there are two likely possibilities for the yellowing leaves. One is that it could be a nitrogen deficiency. This is very possible especially if the soil wasn't enriched since you only gave them a couple of 1/4th strength feedings. Another possibility is that it's showing signs of becoming root bound. I've noticed in my grows that when a plant starts getting root bound the lower leaves begin yellowing and falling off.

There is a third possibility. If the plants are getting pretty bush to where not much light is getting thru to the bottom of the plant then the yellowing leaves may be dying off just because they're not getting enough light down there. It seems to me from watching my plants that when lower leaves are so blocked from light by the upper leaves, that they can't take in enough light energy to make up for at least the energy it takes the plant to keep the leaf healthy, then the plant let's it go. I consider it to be like a natural prunning of the plant by the plant. Some folks try to prevent this from happening by trimming back upper leaves but I think that's foolish especially indoors. The upper parts of the plant are always going to get more light and therefore grow bigger buds then the lower parts, even if the lower parts are getting enough light. That being the case in my mind it's foolish to trim upper leaves in hopes of making lower growth do better. The lower growth will do better but the upper growth won't do as well with less leaves to work with.

Anyway from what you're saying, it sounds like if you repot then into larger containers and start feeding them 1/2 strength doses of nutrients your problem should clear up. Now unfortunately since you're broke for now you're kind of forced to go with the MG for food. The organic stuff you got is usable too but being organic it's slow acting and needs time to break down before the plant can even access it. If it is a nitrogen deficiency you need something that's fast acting like chemical ferts are and Miracle Grow is a Chemical fert. I would say give it the MG All purpose at least for now. Oh and I'm suggesting 1/2 strength because when indoors it seems to me like full strength doses of MG are just too much. Outdoors in the ground seems fine but indoors or even outdoors but in buckets or pots it just seems to do something odd. The plant will look good and seem to grow well but it seems to make the finished bud harsher and difficult to light and/or smoke, even with a good flushing before harvest.

I'm guessing you want to go organic for the purity aspect rather then risk having chemicals in your plant. There is some merit to that but I think the fuss people make over organic vs chemical is rather overrated. The difference between the two is in how the nutrients are derived and how they're taken in by the plant. Once in the plant though it becomes organic, it's not like there's chemicals coursing thru the plants veins from that point on. There is a noticeable difference though in taste and smokability between chemical and organic but in my opinion it's not that big of a deal. Anyway you're still in veg at this point so it's really not that big of a deal. You won't be smoking the leaves and stems so it doesn't matter what they taste like. If you are really really concerned about the organic/chemical thing you could feed them the MG for now and when you repot them use some of that mix you got cooking up for the next batch to fill your pots. The MG will cover them in the short term and perhaps clear up and deficiencies giving a little time for the plant to break down the organics in the new soil and feed off that. That's what I would do given your circumstances.

On your question on the clones, I keep the top on the bottles until they show roots. Once I see roots sticking out of the rooter plugs I then transplant to soil but I put the top half of the bottle back over the clone with the top on and I pus the top part into the soil just enough to keep air out. After one day of that I remove the cap and let it go one more day and then I remove the top part of the bottle. You don't have to do that but if you don't the plant might get a little droopy or seem wilted the first few hours to a day after. This is normal and is due to the sudden change from being in a closed high humidity environment and then suddenly changed to a more normal environment. By doing what I do it allows them to gradually adjust to the new environment and usually I don't get that brief period of droopiness.

 

[HempKat]

Im growing in coco and started them as seeds that i dont no what they are LOL LOL But i am having fun growing them. I will be going to 12/12 this week, they are 6 weeks old now.


I just hope this works, I tryed putting my picks in before and it did not work, so let me no what you think of my Girls. More picks as they grow

Everything looks pretty good, your humidity seems a little high, not enough to worry about but if you could get it down from 61% to 50-55% I think it would be better but as long as it doesn't get much higher then it is now you should be fine. If it does creep up to 70% though then you could have a risk of mold or mildew forming

 

[cosmiccowboy]

Well it's hard to tell without seeing pictures and knowing all there is to know about your exact situation but there are two likely possibilities for the yellowing leaves. One is that it could be a nitrogen deficiency. This is very possible especially if the soil wasn't enriched since you only gave them a couple of 1/4th strength feedings. Another possibility is that it's showing signs of becoming root bound. I've noticed in my grows that when a plant starts getting root bound the lower leaves begin yellowing and falling off.

There is a third possibility. If the plants are getting pretty bush to where not much light is getting thru to the bottom of the plant then the yellowing leaves may be dying off just because they're not getting enough light down there. It seems to me from watching my plants that when lower leaves are so blocked from light by the upper leaves, that they can't take in enough light energy to make up for at least the energy it takes the plant to keep the leaf healthy, then the plant let's it go. I consider it to be like a natural prunning of the plant by the plant. Some folks try to prevent this from happening by trimming back upper leaves but I think that's foolish especially indoors. The upper parts of the plant are always going to get more light and therefore grow bigger buds then the lower parts, even if the lower parts are getting enough light. That being the case in my mind it's foolish to trim upper leaves in hopes of making lower growth do better. The lower growth will do better but the upper growth won't do as well with less leaves to work with.

Anyway from what you're saying, it sounds like if you repot then into larger containers and start feeding them 1/2 strength doses of nutrients your problem should clear up. Now unfortunately since you're broke for now you're kind of forced to go with the MG for food. The organic stuff you got is usable too but being organic it's slow acting and needs time to break down before the plant can even access it. If it is a nitrogen deficiency you need something that's fast acting like chemical ferts are and Miracle Grow is a Chemical fert. I would say give it the MG All purpose at least for now. Oh and I'm suggesting 1/2 strength because when indoors it seems to me like full strength doses of MG are just too much. Outdoors in the ground seems fine but indoors or even outdoors but in buckets or pots it just seems to do something odd. The plant will look good and seem to grow well but it seems to make the finished bud harsher and difficult to light and/or smoke, even with a good flushing before harvest.

I'm guessing you want to go organic for the purity aspect rather then risk having chemicals in your plant. There is some merit to that but I think the fuss people make over organic vs chemical is rather overrated. The difference between the two is in how the nutrients are derived and how they're taken in by the plant. Once in the plant though it becomes organic, it's not like there's chemicals coursing thru the plants veins from that point on. There is a noticeable difference though in taste and smokability between chemical and organic but in my opinion it's not that big of a deal. Anyway you're still in veg at this point so it's really not that big of a deal. You won't be smoking the leaves and stems so it doesn't matter what they taste like. If you are really really concerned about the organic/chemical thing you could feed them the MG for now and when you repot them use some of that mix you got cooking up for the next batch to fill your pots. The MG will cover them in the short term and perhaps clear up and deficiencies giving a little time for the plant to break down the organics in the new soil and feed off that. That's what I would do given your circumstances.

On your question on the clones, I keep the top on the bottles until they show roots. Once I see roots sticking out of the rooter plugs I then transplant to soil but I put the top half of the bottle back over the clone with the top on and I pus the top part into the soil just enough to keep air out. After one day of that I remove the cap and let it go one more day and then I remove the top part of the bottle. You don't have to do that but if you don't the plant might get a little droopy or seem wilted the first few hours to a day after. This is normal and is due to the sudden change from being in a closed high humidity environment and then suddenly changed to a more normal environment. By doing what I do it allows them to gradually adjust to the new environment and usually I don't get that brief period of droopiness.

thanks hempcat..been waitin on yer advice before i fk up somethin...in ref to the organic thing.primary reason is to get everything the plant needs in the soil so it can take what it needs..i'm just learnin so will be much easier to watch plants and go from there...gotta go put tops on pop bottles.you've been a big help..

 

[cosmiccowboy]

thanks hempcat..been waitin on yer advice before i fk up somethin...in ref to the organic thing.primary reason is to get everything the plant needs in the soil so it can take what it needs..i'm just learnin so will be much easier to watch plants and go from there...gotta go put tops on pop bottles.you've been a big help..

topcat,hehehe(as a kid,and even now thats my favorite cartoon character and when i see yer name i think about old topcat)....heres what i mixed up for my next grow..been cookin for a wk...10 gal spagnum peat moss,5 gal compost and manure,3 gal perlite,bone meal,blood meal,kelp meal per lc's mix instructions,2 tbsp dolomite lime per gal mix.(lc's mix from organic forum)...what do you think...those ingredients wont be too much for this close to flowerinf?...hope not cause thats what i'd like to do..

 

[cosmiccowboy]

It doesn't have to be EarthJuice, I just named them because they're a decent respected brand. Since you're using PureBlend Pro I presume you want to go organic. Organic is fine but where it really matters the most is in flower as it is what's produced in flower that we harvest. With that in mind if they don't have EarthJuice you could get Peters 20-20-20. Now Peter's is a Chemical based fert but it's popular and many growers use it. One because it's cheap but hopefully more because it has a good balance of nutrients and micronutrients. So you could always hold off on the PBP Grow for a few feedings and give it the Peter's 20-20-20 to try to get it back on track.

If Chemical is just not an option for you then you can try to treat it with crushed up dolomite lime added to your next waterings. This will only work if your problem is a Calcium/Magnesium deficiency (which it's a good chance that's what it is). The EarthJuice is ideal though as it's a good product, organically based and covers more then just two of the micronutrients marijuana needs.

"organic is fine but where it really matters the most is in flower as it is whats produced in flower that we harvest"...that makes a lot of common sense.never heard it stated like that before.

 

[Rooster449]

Thanks HempKat,
As soon as I get into my new place I'm going to get a de-humidiphyer, I really injoy reading your posts, they have really helped me on my Little Grow Room.