Kushed_
Member
time to shab and slab
Shab and slab is fucking hilarious!!! I am DTFO though!!
time to shab and slab
I'm kinda curious why you guys need these to hold a vacuum for two days with the vacuum turned off? Unless you have a way to control temperature in there you aren't purging anything due to the insanely high viscosity of the oil at room temperature. Once it becomes too solid for any bubbles to pop you need to reheat it or you are just wasting time IMO. Best you could get without reheating is honeycomb which seems to be an emulsion of water and BHO and tastes awful to me. It takes 3-4 trips out of the vacuum and into a toaster oven for me to get shatter every time with 14 grams or less.
I wasn't arguing in favor of a non sealed chamber, but rather arguing that it doesn't need to hold a full vacuum for 24 hours. I'm not sure if my Vac it pro does or doesn't because I don't spend more than an hour or two purging to get shatter. Honestly I don't even bother shutting the vacuum off. I could smash it on the concrete and take it back to Harbor Freight and be back with a new one in less than an hour. There's really no incentive to take care of it. If it makes it 2 years I'll use the warranty to get a new one and purchase a new 2 year warranty, just like the girl at the counter suggested.
A hot plate will allow you to control the temperature of the BOTTOM of your oil but even the thinnest layer of oil will remain much cooler on the surface. You know how insulation works on the principal of dead air space right? How is an electric griddle going to warm the empty space above the oil inside of your vacuum chamber? It's not, that's why we all dream of a vacuum oven. That's why in the interim we use a toaster oven, because they have a fairly concise thermostat and they heat from above as well as below. In my experience the griddle method either produces shatter that waxes (starting from the top, remains shattery on bottom) or straight up honeycomb. If left long enough the butane will tunnel its way out and leave moisture behind.
I guess I'm just wondering what sort of technique people are using that requires 24 hours time and what the consistency of their final product is like.
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A hot plate will allow you to control the temperature of the BOTTOM of your oil but even the thinnest layer of oil will remain much cooler on the surface. You know how insulation works on the principal of dead air space right? How is an electric griddle going to warm the empty space above the oil inside of your vacuum chamber? It's not, that's why we all dream of a vacuum oven. That's why in the interim we use a toaster oven, because they have a fairly concise thermostat and they heat from above as well as below. In my experience the griddle method either produces shatter that waxes (starting from the top, remains shattery on bottom) or straight up honeycomb. If left long enough the butane will tunnel its way out and leave moisture behind.
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It is not just having to take it back. What makes anyone think just because the cheap gauge says full vac, that it actually is?
Like walt said, an Infrared laser thermometer confirms the bho (thin film) is holding 2-3 degree's colder than the hot plate on the surface, I assume it loses heat during transfer to my stainless steel vessel, as it isn't thin. The only advantage to multiple purges is to 'fold' the BHO to allow different surface area to be purged (it seemed to help), but with the tek I use these days a single purge is more than enough. Much longer hot water, much less vac.
Water test it. At room temp, put a bowl of water inside, vacuum to full vacuum, the water should be boiling. Water boils at 212f, at regular atmospheric conditions, at low -29hg (vacuum) water boils at room temperature. Without heat, just vacuum, the water will boil (visibly react) if your at/near full vac.
http://www.engineersedge.com/h2o_boil_pressure.htm
well og shush, ive been making it only for a few years, since 2009 so im no expert. i got my pump for $250, and it does have a 2 year warranty, ill just never have to use it. and do not go by the cfm rating, that dont mean shit, its what micron it goes down to. 15 is what i was looking for
i would say wasting money is not good, but also do not buy cheap shit. if you have to replace that pump a few times, and it costs you $20 in gas and 2 hours of drive time, that for sure aint free.
i do not own a vacuum oven because i dont make much oil anymore, and i did not want a used one, as i would not trust the chemicals used before hand. Im not going to spend thousands on something alot of people are have trouble with the low temp settings. if you are doing thin film purges, then you do not need heat from the bottom and top.
you said you wouldnt justify me with a response, but you did anyways.
anyone that buys and uses alot of tools knows the quality harbor freight provides.
I realize water will boil at room temperature in a full vacuum. That's the main reason to use a vacuum, to lower the boiling point of water to lower than that of terpenes. The other reason being to protect the terpenes from oxidizing.
Negative pressure doesn't just lower the boiling points of water and not terpenes, all boiling points are lowerd under vacuum.
Right on. The water boiling temperatures was for Kushed, you can confirm if your cheap gauge is relatively accurate (within 1hg) for cheap.