I don't think I explained properly. I don't mean that 24hr light is the problem, or that plants can't handle it. In a perfect environment and with a thriving plant, they usually will, even though I do give mine a work break.
What I mean is that there are obviously some slight stress factors at play in that tent, and in that case, the plant won't be able to process that light; the light will become a stress to it at the point when the plant wants to shut down.
All in all they look good considering they were little sprouts a week or so ago. But there are some changes you need to make, one of which being get a Ph pen, the other light-proofing the pots.
Also, when you water, water around the outside of the pot and not at the base of the plant. Again, this is something you can easily get away with when the plant is vigorous but not when it's not.
Also, you're running hempy buckets and you're already watering til run through. Again, this is another case where variables come into play and why people can't make big claims that any pot or bucket or light or system is a foolproof way to get huge plants and huge yields.
In that type of pot I'd always suggest to water lightly until the roots are right through the pot. Then start watering til run through once in a while. When the plant is dying out the pot daily, start feeding to run off daily.
What happens in the meantime is the res at the bottom will become anaerobic. Regardless of how much air coco holds, once that res is watered, if it is left for days, it'll contain little oxygen and will be prohibitive to the rootzone. People say to flood it daily to prevent this.
For me that's not good practice because you're using a lot of nutrients along with your water which the plant isn't using, all just to oxygenate a small area at the base because your plant's roots are not drinking it yet. It's a process which will work to keep fresh water supplied to the rootzone but it's also a lot of wasted nutes into the water supply when what you should be doing is gently coaxing the plants into the pot.
These are things you only get used to with hands on experience tbh. They're little adjustments to your methods which help you get the most from the plants and enable you to ease them through any stress they're having.
One thing I forget if I mentioned, but definitely get a thermostatically controlled heater for the night time. Major investment. Low night temps will really affect the plants. But, spring's here now and that should be less of a problem in a few weeks. In the meantime, run your lights at night and get one when you can.
What I mean is that there are obviously some slight stress factors at play in that tent, and in that case, the plant won't be able to process that light; the light will become a stress to it at the point when the plant wants to shut down.
All in all they look good considering they were little sprouts a week or so ago. But there are some changes you need to make, one of which being get a Ph pen, the other light-proofing the pots.
Also, when you water, water around the outside of the pot and not at the base of the plant. Again, this is something you can easily get away with when the plant is vigorous but not when it's not.
Also, you're running hempy buckets and you're already watering til run through. Again, this is another case where variables come into play and why people can't make big claims that any pot or bucket or light or system is a foolproof way to get huge plants and huge yields.
In that type of pot I'd always suggest to water lightly until the roots are right through the pot. Then start watering til run through once in a while. When the plant is dying out the pot daily, start feeding to run off daily.
What happens in the meantime is the res at the bottom will become anaerobic. Regardless of how much air coco holds, once that res is watered, if it is left for days, it'll contain little oxygen and will be prohibitive to the rootzone. People say to flood it daily to prevent this.
For me that's not good practice because you're using a lot of nutrients along with your water which the plant isn't using, all just to oxygenate a small area at the base because your plant's roots are not drinking it yet. It's a process which will work to keep fresh water supplied to the rootzone but it's also a lot of wasted nutes into the water supply when what you should be doing is gently coaxing the plants into the pot.
These are things you only get used to with hands on experience tbh. They're little adjustments to your methods which help you get the most from the plants and enable you to ease them through any stress they're having.
One thing I forget if I mentioned, but definitely get a thermostatically controlled heater for the night time. Major investment. Low night temps will really affect the plants. But, spring's here now and that should be less of a problem in a few weeks. In the meantime, run your lights at night and get one when you can.
