uk clone only! (and british bred strains)

[JamieShoes]

I'll be interested to hear about heat from the UV too... it's something I've always been tempted by, but put off as the 850w in my dr120 is finally running at sweet temps and I don't like to tamper too much...


I envy your water too. although I do think my hard water is maybe the reason I never have to supplement cal/mg, I'd be happier knowing exactly what made up it's ppms... mine comes out ec 0.6 and pH 8.2

(sidenote: did you see canna do a "rotterdam special" just for their water?...)

 

[englishrick]

yeh yeh indifferent ,,,,i was gona buy that same bulb myself the other day,,,,,,i was in a garden center and they sold them exact bulbs,,,,,they are the easyest to get..

what do you think of that light cycle unit [for the tubes]?,,,i was gona buy the whole set and link them up

apparently ::::

The Exo Terra Repti Glo 2.0 is a general light source with a high visual light output and a very high colour rendering index (CRI), but a lower UVB radiation. This bulb is suitable for snakes, all amphibians (frogs, toads and salamanders) and nocturnal animals. Plants will thrive under this light as well. It is also a perfect complementary light to a UVB bulb to boost visual light.

The Exo Terra Repti Glo 5.0 has a moderate to high UVB output, similar to that of shady environments such as rain forests and other tropical locations. Reptiles living in these habitats receive less UV radiation because of the many climatological conditions (fairly high humidity, changes in weather, etc) that prevent direct sunlight from reaching them or their basking sites.

[/B]The Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0[/B] has a very high UVB output similar to that associated with desert environments. Desert locations receive more direct sunlight than any other because of fewer clouds, less air humidity and no plants or trees to provide shade. Therefore desert reptiles are more exposed to UV radiation than any other type of reptile. This bulb can also be used on screened terrariums or terrariums with dense screen covers to ensure UVB penetration. Dense screens can filter out up to 50% of the UVB rays.

 

[indifferent]

Hey Jamie, postie bring you any CDs yet? I think most Dutch water is recycled a lot so heavily treated. Where I live, it never stops raining and the water comes straight off the hills into the reservoir into my tap with the bear minimum of fucking about with. I don't know if they fluorinate it or what, I think it will just go through a basic filter bed to get rid of any particulates and they will monitor for bacteria and such, but we don't have big water treatment plants here, there is so much rain we have an excess of good water! I often see calmag deficiencies so I know my water lacks that.

I think the two bulbs that are most useful are the 2.0 and the 10.0. The 2.0 is similar spectrum to an actinic tube so is strong in the blue 400-500nm part of the spectrum and will be good for two things - stimulating vegetative growth and stimulating terpenoid production. would suggest experimenting with those as a way of filling in your spectrum during flowering as HPS bulbs lack blue. Elevator man supplemented his HPS with 6500k blue tubes and is seeing some definite benefits.

The 10.0 is useful for UVB, it also has some visible light that will be useful, but much less than a 26W regular CFL would.

I think the CFLs are good for experimenting, but the tubes are a better bet for long term use. I think we've all been missing a trick by using just HPS bulbs and there is very real benefit to be gained from strengthening parts of the spectrum that the HPS is deficient in.

One thing I think people should be looking at as a low cost addition to a flowering setup is red leds. A modest amount of red 625-660nm light added to your typical HPS or fluoro grow could have very effective benefits. I reckon 400w HPS + 50W of red light from LEDs would be a very interesting setup. I'd also add some blue light from some cool fluoros, either 6500k or 10000k actinics.

If you wanna get some UV tubes to play with rick I have a ballast and fittings to run four 20W tubes. You could use two UV tubes and two blue tubes, place one vertically in each corner of your tent like I was gonna do. I'll flog it to ya for what I paid for it, I think I paid 14 squid. That would give you a huge boost in the blue and UV ranges. I would recommend a pair of 6500k cool whites, a 10.0 reptisun and a 2.0 reptisun. I have some 6500k 18w tubes I don't need and the reptisuns aren't too expensive, especially on ebay.

On the heat issue, the CFL doesn't generate enough heat to worry about, it doesn't affect my environmentals one jot. I reckon you could add 4 x 20W tubes to a grow without altering the temps enough to cause an issue.

 

[englishrick]

4 x 24watt is a nice boost, il pm you.....im defo gona try mixing and matching the 2.0, 5.0 and the 10.0,,,,,,,ive got a feelin this sorta light will help inderviduals express hiden traits,,,,,

 

[indifferent]

I think that trying to grow pure sativas indoors without supplemental spectra is largely pointless as there is definitely something lacking in the expressions. There are some that work pretty well under just HPS, such as the Highland Oaxcan Gold cutting, but even that lacks something compared to how the effects and potency would be outdoors. I've travelled in Mexico and smoked a lot of Mexican weed and I can tell ya, that shit is real loco weed, I remember sitting up all night one night scared the alligators were coming to eat me!

If we can figure out how to get that effect indoors, we have made a very significant step forward. The way to achieve it is through supplementary lighting, but exactly what supplementary lighting is needed is as yet unproven. Elevator Man seems to be onto something with his supplementary cool blue fluoros though.

 

[indifferent]

Here is how not to grow the Kentish Creme from cutting! This was a cut I put straight into flower as soon as rooted and it stretched into a tall thing with zero branching. I pinched the stem half a dozen times and instead of branching the mainstem became a piece of wood. She will only yield a couple of grams but the smoke will be AAA. I'm gonna have to cross this lady to some other things to change her structure, it's just not a productive plant to grow in this form.

 

[Elevator Man]

Heh - well, at least you've got a handy walking-stick too...

 

[indifferent]

Aye, that stem is so strong and woody it would make a good walking stick - for a hobbit!

One day I might veg a KC to 2 foot then flower it out with maximum liquid silicon and pinch the stem every day just to make a stem suitable for a walking stick!

I mean, how cool would that be! lol

I kept the stem off the 10oz Durban x Skunk beast I did outdoors, well, I kept the bottom 3 foot, it made an excellent cudgel so I kept it by the front door. Something about getting smashed by the stem of a weed plant appealed to my skewed sense of humour. Not that I ever hit anyone with it that I recall! lol

 

[englishrick]

a friend of mine has water in his legs,,,,when he takes his socks off,,,that stem is what the botom of his leg looks like

sorry

 

[indifferent]

Hehe no problem rick. that stem was pinched a lot of times, it's grown wizzened and crooked as a result.

 

[englishrick]

hes a crook

 

[indifferent]

My two Kentish Creme S1s are looking to be rather different phenos. They both look nice in some ways but not so great in others. The first one has tiny buds but they are plastered in resin and purple, this one has a great calyx to leaf ratio but the yield sucks, I image even in coco fed hard this one won't yield good.

The other one is similar in most regards but is much leafier. It may however, be even more resinous a the resin is all over the leaves, and seems to extend further down the larger leaves than the other one. This looks like a very good plat for hash making but will also yield poorly for buds.

I am going to cross cuts of both of these to the very indica bubblicious male I found, that should up the yeild.

 

[lovelightpower]

i've just got a new lap-top hoo-fuckin-ray.
back in the land of internet again

i've just grown a kentish kreme cut under a 250hps, it looks suspiciously similar to your walking stick, indifferent!

i thought maybe the lack of watts gave the poor yield.

what way should the kentish kreme be grown to up the yield?

 

[Sammet]

You've got some really interesting cuts indifferent.

 

[englishrick]

i've just got a new lap-top hoo-fuckin-ray.
back in the land of internet again

i've just grown a kentish kreme cut under a 250hps, it looks suspiciously similar to your walking stick, indifferent!

i thought maybe the lack of watts gave the poor yield.

what way should the kentish kreme be grown to up the yield?

no way

ive got loads of threads to show you LLP.......


welcome back bro,,,,,you been away for ages

 

[indifferent]

Tis good to know LLP is doing good, been wondering where you been!

The Kentish needs a protracted veg time during which you need to abuse her into as many tops as possible, the more tops, the more she will yield.

Did you like the smoke from her though?

Cheers for the compliment sammet, but Elevator Man has to take the credit for finding and sharing the KC and the Oaxacan.

Speaking of which, a cut ofthe Oaxacan is the victim of an experiment I am doing with a 26w UVB CFL, first 5 days look promising. Day 10 is tomorrow so I'll take some more pics then.

 

[englishrick]

^^^^WITH DAZ^^^^^^^,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,^^^^^^^WITHOUT DAZ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[indifferent]

It's early days yet but it does seem there is more resin than prior runs without UV. I figured the Oaxacan, being from a tropical high altitude region would be ideal for exposure to high UV levels.

 

[lovelightpower]

go the Kentish Kreme drying now, no rush dry for me so i'll tell what its like in a while.

 

[englishrick]

have you seen any purple phenos like indifferent`s S1 pheno LLP????