B
Bud Bug
Problem with suggesting the usage or commercial labeled fungicides/miticides/insecticides is that no one posts the proper usage instructions and equipment needed to proper applications.
This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
whats up great thread great product. i got 1 ? for ya in here. i have 3 wks left in flower and just noticed a spot of pm i removed the fan leaf and it came back the next day removed that leaf now im goin to spray with what? i wiped the plants leaves down with neem oil last lights out but i also have some plants in the room that have no signs of it plants were hit with eagle 20 bout 2months ago. i have everyting available to me which is best h20 h202 milk bakinsoda garlic neem or go with a store bought product. im prob gonna just hit everything with some highph water right at lights out tonight . i though i had it beat but i guess on longer flowerin strains it will pop up later down the road.
thanks .
thanks .
Read the label?
If you must spray, I suggest 2 hours before lights on. This way things dont stay wet too long. Milk has worked for me with zero negative effect, but it requires 4-6 day reapplication until harvest. It's a lot of spraying and work. If you do go the milk route, what I did was rinse all the plants good 24 hours before chop with plain water. Zero milk film will be left over.
B
Bud Bug
Yah I think you still got ways before the revival of the Seinfeld show. I know for a fact 95% of growers can't/wont read labels and some just can't comprehend whats written on the label. A lot of them will get their commercial/restricted pesticides from hydro stores or friends with out the labels with just a vague description on how to use it.
If people read labels Avid, Floramite, Monitor and etc... would still work at manufacturers doses instead of the toxic amounts required to be used by growers to kill the mites and other bugs.
Okay, in response to Herborize, krunchbubble, carbonskeleton, justalilrowdy and anyone else who disagrees with me.
First off everyone has the right to and opinion, but just because a couple of people agree on something does not make it a fact. Im not trying to fight or argue but i am open to debate on this subject. just so everyone is clear: I am not an expert
In order to prevent the spread of misinformation I always try to check and expert source before i post any advice. I also make sure that i can site that source if someone calls BS like you guys have.
my sources for my previous post:
Marijuana Horticulture the indoor/outdoor Medical Growers Bible By Jorge Cervantes
Page 373 under Powdery Mildew
"Identify: First indication of infection is small spots on the tops of leaves. At this point the disease has been inside the plant a week or more. Spots progress to a fine, pale, gray white powdery coat..."
"...Growth slows , leaves yellow, and plants die as the disease advances. Occasionally fatal indoors, this diseases at its worst when roots are dry and foliage is moist."
"Control: Cleanliness! Prevent this mildew by avoiding cool, damp, humid, dim grow room conditions, as well as fluctuating temperatures and humidity. Low light levels and stale air affect this disease. increase air circulation and ventilation, and make sure light intensity is high. space containers far enough apart so air freely flows between plants. allow foliage to dry before turning off lights. remove and destroy foliage more than 50 percent infected. avoid excess nitrogen. copper and sulfer-lime sprays are a good prophylactic."
"Sprays: Bordeaux mixture may keep this mold in check. A saturation of baking soda spray dries to a fine powder on the leaf; the baking soda changes the surface PH of the leaf to 7, and powdery Mildew cannot grow"
and
Hemp Diseases and Pest Management and Biological Control By J.M Mcpartland, R.C. Clarke and D.P. Watson
Im not going to post quotes from this one because it basically says the same things i quoted above.
Now its quite possible that all the experts are wrong, it would not be the first time.
I know from my experience that if i have my conditions dialed in i dont get PM with the strains i am currently running. I have came across genetics that are extremely vulnerable to PM. If you have absolutely no other option then use Eagle 20. But it should be an absolute last resort. Like most extremely effective (avid and Pyrethrum) pest controls its probably really bad for you. I dont have any evidence to prove that its bad for you but if i was a gambling man i would bet that there have not been any long term studies (5,10,20 years) done on it and its effects on humans.
Most grows dont have perfect conditions. Most growers dont even know what there night temps are as they dont go into their rooms at night, or havent in a very long time. I know, I know some of you have perfect conditions in your grow rooms. thats great!!! most people dont!!!
carbonskeleton, i appreciate your feedback. as far as the PH thing goes, PH is the reason why people use sulfer burners. the evaporated sulfer condenses on the leaf surface and changes the PH making it impossible for PM to form. Sulfer burners can be extremely effective at elimination of PM when they are used correctly. Also i have never heard any were that PM likes hot conditions can you prove this claim?
I have a lot more to say but ive been working on this post for over an hour now so maybe i will post more later.
please feel free to debate any of the points i have made, but have hard evidence to back up your claims. If you are posting something that is opinion please identify it as such to prevent misinformation from being spread.
First off everyone has the right to and opinion, but just because a couple of people agree on something does not make it a fact. Im not trying to fight or argue but i am open to debate on this subject. just so everyone is clear: I am not an expert
In order to prevent the spread of misinformation I always try to check and expert source before i post any advice. I also make sure that i can site that source if someone calls BS like you guys have.
my sources for my previous post:
Marijuana Horticulture the indoor/outdoor Medical Growers Bible By Jorge Cervantes
Page 373 under Powdery Mildew
"Identify: First indication of infection is small spots on the tops of leaves. At this point the disease has been inside the plant a week or more. Spots progress to a fine, pale, gray white powdery coat..."
"...Growth slows , leaves yellow, and plants die as the disease advances. Occasionally fatal indoors, this diseases at its worst when roots are dry and foliage is moist."
"Control: Cleanliness! Prevent this mildew by avoiding cool, damp, humid, dim grow room conditions, as well as fluctuating temperatures and humidity. Low light levels and stale air affect this disease. increase air circulation and ventilation, and make sure light intensity is high. space containers far enough apart so air freely flows between plants. allow foliage to dry before turning off lights. remove and destroy foliage more than 50 percent infected. avoid excess nitrogen. copper and sulfer-lime sprays are a good prophylactic."
"Sprays: Bordeaux mixture may keep this mold in check. A saturation of baking soda spray dries to a fine powder on the leaf; the baking soda changes the surface PH of the leaf to 7, and powdery Mildew cannot grow"
and
Hemp Diseases and Pest Management and Biological Control By J.M Mcpartland, R.C. Clarke and D.P. Watson
Im not going to post quotes from this one because it basically says the same things i quoted above.
Now its quite possible that all the experts are wrong, it would not be the first time.
I know from my experience that if i have my conditions dialed in i dont get PM with the strains i am currently running. I have came across genetics that are extremely vulnerable to PM. If you have absolutely no other option then use Eagle 20. But it should be an absolute last resort. Like most extremely effective (avid and Pyrethrum) pest controls its probably really bad for you. I dont have any evidence to prove that its bad for you but if i was a gambling man i would bet that there have not been any long term studies (5,10,20 years) done on it and its effects on humans.
Most grows dont have perfect conditions. Most growers dont even know what there night temps are as they dont go into their rooms at night, or havent in a very long time. I know, I know some of you have perfect conditions in your grow rooms. thats great!!! most people dont!!!
carbonskeleton, i appreciate your feedback. as far as the PH thing goes, PH is the reason why people use sulfer burners. the evaporated sulfer condenses on the leaf surface and changes the PH making it impossible for PM to form. Sulfer burners can be extremely effective at elimination of PM when they are used correctly. Also i have never heard any were that PM likes hot conditions can you prove this claim?
I have a lot more to say but ive been working on this post for over an hour now so maybe i will post more later.
please feel free to debate any of the points i have made, but have hard evidence to back up your claims. If you are posting something that is opinion please identify it as such to prevent misinformation from being spread.
WTF is with this spray in the dark baloney. The only time I ever spray at night is when I want Ethylene gas to evaporate slowly.
Otherwise, farmers almost always spray in the morning or the late afternoon.
I have no idea where this spray at night bullshit ever came from.
This was for indoors. Since outdoors you have early morning and evening light hours where e sun is less intense. With indoor, lights are always full go. Personally, I have a 40w T5 in my space that I switch on for when I spray. Once the plants are dry, I pop the main light back on.
I believe they idea is to avoid burn.
Mr Blue2. I don't think crunch made this thread for debate. For those of us who have been there and done that, there is nothing to debate.
Without debate this thread is just be a hard sales pitch for eagle 20. i just dont want people who read this thread to think eagle 20 is there only option because its not. ill let it go.
autoflowerman
New member
What about Autoflowers?
Can this be used somewhere between 15-30 days from seed as a preventive measure?
I would really appreciate some advice on this... my last grow was ruined due to PM and i'm worried I will have the same issue.
Can this be used somewhere between 15-30 days from seed as a preventive measure?
I would really appreciate some advice on this... my last grow was ruined due to PM and i'm worried I will have the same issue.
I am talking about indoors. Why would you advise anyone to spray in the dark? If what you are spraying will burn the leaves with a freaking T5 bulb, you shouldn't be spraying it at all.
Plants want to be sprayed in the daytime. Indoors or outdoors, daytime means when you can see.
It is widely advised not to foliar spray with hid lights on. Just google "foliar spray lights off" and you will see.
All things considered, I have never tried foliar spraying in full hid light. Since you seem to be pretty knowledgable, I did a spray of my plants with calmag today with my hid lights on. I will see what happens.
P.S. You don't have to be all bunchy in your posts. It's ok to be nice.
I agree! Your leaves will burn if there is oil or some kind of spreader/sticker in your spray, and you put them away wet with the lights on...
Dont put wet plants away with the lights on
I hope this helps
autoflowerman
New member
What about autoflowering plants like diesel ryder?
Do you still have a window of time to spray them with eagle?
Do you still have a window of time to spray them with eagle?
If you are spraying a compound that will burn your plants with the lights on, I suggest you re-think your foliar program.
In emergencies, like heavy mites or something, spraying at night might be defensible, but there are plenty or products that you could use instead, and just spray normally.... in the daytime....
In emergencies, like heavy mites or something, spraying at night might be defensible, but there are plenty or products that you could use instead, and just spray normally.... in the daytime....
