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The Lounge : Growers Round Table Discussion Thread

hyposomniac

Active member
Frankly hypo I think led has the better answer in that regard- something in the procedure could be to blame for this particular plant and nutrition might not be your issue.
How are the roots? You pull that thing out of the pot to take a look?

Yea, I am looking closely at the transpiration issue... Night time humidity especially might be too high. Also will take a closer look at humidity within the canopy rather than just above and below it

"there was not any significant effect of the different treatments on the crop transpiration during the night, although it was reduced by 32.3% but as a result of maintenance of high humidity inside the greenhouse during the whole night."

I checked the roots when I took some core samples to slurry test,
The roots are fine, fibrous, strong and very plentiful.. I had to carve off a small chunk with a knife, break it up and pull out the roots to get a coco sample. Myco/bacterial inoculants used.
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Yea, I am looking closely at the transpiration issue... Night time humidity especially might be too high. Also will take a closer look at humidity within the canopy rather than just above and below it

"there was not any significant effect of the different treatments on the crop transpiration during the night, although it was reduced by 32.3% but as a result of maintenance of high humidity inside the greenhouse during the whole night."

I checked the roots when I took some core samples to slurry test,
The roots are fine, fibrous, strong and very plentiful.. I had to carve off a small chunk with a knife, break it up and pull out the roots to get a coco sample. Myco/bacterial inoculants used.

pull the plant out of the container, take some pics of root ball please, sides, top & bottom.. the one pic your medium looks compacted and dry, not best pic to see this from though, if you add Mg you're going to compact down more.... I'd be spraying foliar micros and foliar Ca and also Gypsum slurry but looking closer at the medium and root ball will help... Jidoka is right, that shiny look is aphid like but only if you didn't just spray it which we now know you did and anyone can spot aphids...

Some of your older leafs / larger ones scream Ca deficiency to me, the new growth says B, S, Fe & Zn perhaps too - but again, I think all this is due to a physical issue as much as anything else; as is usually the case
 

jidoka

Active member
So I tried that 2-5-2 by itself one time. It is seriously short Ca. I did not want to use their bone meal cause that base has plenty of P. Took a lot of gypsum

Anyways...led called it. Listen to him
 

hyposomniac

Active member
Definitely listening.. Been taking steps.. This forum is a treasure

-Watching transpiration
-Flushing w gypsum and confirming medium pH., following up with higher micros and Ca in feed
-alternating calcium/b spray with calmag iron spray.

Swamped with work til Monday, only a few minutes a day of lights on garden time till then. Will follow up then, Inc checking roots
 

led05

Chasing The Present
So I tried that 2-5-2 by itself one time. It is seriously short Ca. I did not want to use their bone meal cause that base has plenty of P. Took a lot of gypsum

Anyways...led called it. Listen to him


There’s not a chance in life I’ll appreciate the knowledge here

There’s genius here left and right
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
Hey I wanted to share a couple threads I made recently, I feel the more innovative growers here in the Advanced Growing Section might appreciate them more...The top 2 in my signature are the ones. Still making small edits here and there and would appreciate some discussion/feedback as well. Big thanks to jidoka and slownickel, cant thank you enough (and so many others).
 
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hyposomniac

Active member

So here's that Monday update.. Same top, looking better. You can see the same damaged leaf is bigger and greener, and new growth is still not correct but no longer torn or malformed, just a little twisty.
picture.php


At the same time roots are showing a new flush of growth.
One lesson here, pay attention to absolute values, not just ratios.
 

frankslan

Member
Im having some issues with my no till soil the last 3 runs. Its about 2 years old now on the 6 or 7th flower cycle. I keep getting premature yellowing.




I did a soil test but idk if my lab is just using different methods than most labs but my numbers are really high. Ive been reading up on slow nickles thread and been learning a lot. I have tons of ca but cec is 90!


 

jidoka

Active member
You got a Morgan test. It tells you what is soluble but not what is on your cec sites

Can I ask what you have been reamending with? Bunch of gypsum maybe

If you have not been using soluble stuff you have crazy microbe activity. Your EC is way high.
 

frankslan

Member
Its the standard no till mix with 1 cup of gypsum and oyster shell. I've been adding ewc and a little of each amendment each flower cycle.

I dont know why my ca and mg are so high seem much higher than other peoples.
 

frankslan

Member
that 1 cup gypsum and oyster shell per foot.

Then when I top dress I do the kelp neem crab maybe a cup altogether, topped off with a half inch of ewc.

I keep getting yellowing starting as early as week 3 usually I make it to week 4 of flower. The buds just don't finish right either they dont get dense. At day 70 I still had white hairs popping up.
 

jidoka

Active member
Here is my problem. I have an opinion but not enough facts for it to mean much. Can you get a Spectrum test?
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
Anyone in here have solid understanding of silicon, mono/ortho silicic acid, choline stabilized mono/ortho silicic acid and polymerization that would be willing to share? The topic of bio silica came up in the silicon thread in my signature as well as using sand as a silicon source, and someone mentioned his plants seem to be eating the sand over time. Im pretty sure the silicon in sand (quartz/silicon dioxide) is hardly plant available and the small portion that becomes available monosilicic acid is lost to Oligomerization/polymerization. I tried to explain it as best as i can from what I understand, Thanks if you can help!
 
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frankslan

Member
Here is my problem. I have an opinion but not enough facts for it to mean much. Can you get a Spectrum test?

Ya Im thinking about it Im doing more research, lots of good info on here. Im falling down the rabbit hole.

Spectrum is the best place to test? They weigh the sample correctly?

When I sample should I screen it? I took out some of the pumice out last time.
 

jackspratt61

Active member
Ya Im thinking about it Im doing more research, lots of good info on here. Im falling down the rabbit hole.

Spectrum is the best place to test? They weigh the sample correctly?

When I sample should I screen it? I took out some of the pumice out last time.

Dry your sample and sift through a colander,label your sample asking for the k-3 test.
You're on your way now!
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Anyone in here have solid understanding of silicon, mono/ortho silicic acid, choline stabilized mono/ortho silicic acid and polymerization that would be willing to share? The topic of bio silica came up in the silicon thread in my signature as well as using sand as a silicon source, and someone mentioned his plants seem to be eating the sand over time. Im pretty sure the silicon in sand (quartz/silicon dioxide) is hardly plant available and the small portion that becomes available monosilicic acid is lost to Oligomerization/polymerization. I tried to explain it as best as i can from what I understand, Thanks if you can help!

He’d have a lot better luck with amorphous silica, if nothing else it’ll help hold other minerals in the medium
 
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