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*The K.I.S.S. Method*

Seltzerman

New member
Sorry man, using Teaspoons here, but a conversion is simple

1 US Teaspoon = 4.92892159 Milliliters

If you have a scale, the weight should be 7 grams Per Gallon.

As far as the dissolve goes, check the first post again. Ive updated how to properly dissolve Maxi..

Thanks, and this is a great thread, btw. I did check the first post and what's missing there is a data point to establish some idea of how to scale up. clearly I can't take 70 tsp and expect it to dissolve in a mason jar of water - there would be almost as much powder as water. But it at least does tell me that HOT water is ok - I was concerned before about too much heat as months ago when my rez temp got up in the 80s, I had problems. But that was probably because my friendly flora got damaged, not because of a chemical change from the heat.
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
I don't have this problem of all of the Maxi Bloom not dissolving and leaving the white bits. Unless I don't shake it quick enough after I pour my 1 teaspoon in a gallon jug. My water is from the tap and it sits out with the lid off for a day. The water is always cool when I mix. I see the white specks after the initial few shakes. I think the last of them go away after I pH the water to around 6.0 - 6.2 (i use coco) or maybe it's after they have soaked up more water that makes them go away, but after I get it pHd and shake it a bit, never really hard, it is all dissolved.
 

smailer

Active member
Hey man :)
I want to ask you smth. Water in my region is hard (EC 0.4), that for first thing I have to mix maxibloom in distilled water
then add this solution to big tank of tap water.
That’s why I'd like to prepare concentrated mix of Maxibloom.
My question is - how much of maxibloom can dissolves in distilled water, in one liter/gallon for example?
 

smailer

Active member
So after reading posts of Seltzerman and Ioni Botani
I decide make some experiment try to dissolve 14g of maxibloom in 500ml of distil water room temperature.
Because I also have a problems with white flakes what going down to precipitate.


I have maxibloom in this pack
maxi.jpg

and start mix and stir well about 5 minutes or more

Then wait while water swirl will slower and stop.

We can see some precipitatation on the bottom and I decide rise the temperature of sollution and mix again. but it's doesen't give any effect.

and in the end we have (I was put spoon for scale)


Anyone have ideas about it? I have a really hard magnesium def. on my plants. Also it make pain in my ass by stucking dippers.

I was filter precipitatations and I was suppose what this is a some king of Calcium salts, by this reason I has decide add some acetic acid and see did any reaction will start but no reaction at all, same situation with sulfuric acid.


Sorry if I post this in a wrong place, if it true please move it in right tread.
 

tester

Member
According to the MSDS Maxibloom is derived from :
  • ammonium nitrate,
  • ammonium molybdate,
  • calcium nitrate,
  • cobalt sulfate
  • copper sulfate
  • iron DTPA
  • magnesium sulfate
  • potassium borate
  • potassium nitrate
  • potassium phosphate
  • potassium sulfate
  • zinc sulfate.

AFAIK the usual suspects are calcium sulfate and calcium phosphate.

Based on my limited knowledge in chemistry, the precipitation can't be calcium sulfate because it'd react with acetic acid (foams up at turns yellow), and can't be calcium phosphate because it'd form calcium acetate that would remain in the solution(?).

Hopefully someone else will chime in.

Nute content based on the label and heavy metal analysis :
GH - MaxiBloom
http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/product_labels/maxibloom_1.5lb.pdf
http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/msds/MaxiBloom.pdf
  • 5% N
  • 4.5% NO3
  • 0.5% NH4
  • 15% P2O5
  • 6.54% P
  • 14% K2O
  • 11.62% K
  • 5% Ca
  • 3.5% Mg
  • 0.1% Fe
  • 0.00112% Mo
  • 0.0005% Co
  • 0.01137% Zn
  • 4% S
N:p2O5:K2O ratio = 1:3:2.8
N:p:K ratio = 1:1.3:2.3
 

smailer

Active member
So ater all I decide try dissolve a less amount of maxibloom and put 1 TeaSpoon in to 500ml of distil water.

And nutes dissolve almost all, I have some rest on the bottom, but like cystals, not like flakes.
I'm agree with tester about what flakes is probably calcium sulfate or calcium phosphate. I incline to calcium phosphate becase it' make flakes, when calcium sulfate makes small like dots pieces.

and some pics of the result:


After I has beat crystals by stick and all is dissolve, I'm happy now :)

Conclusion: If you have some precipitations like white flakes while dissoling MaxiBloom, try use less ammount of nutes for lower concentration and shake well ;)
 

MagicChef

Member
IONI- Thank U!!:tiphat:
Im off to the hydro store right after I post this message! Im done with all the other crap. I want maxibloom! Im curently using Botanicare which is supposed to be an easy line but apparantly not.

Here's my situation:

Im using Sunshine mix #4 which is PH 7.0 and has perlite, peatand dolomite lime.

Ive got seedlings, 2 week olds- 1 month olds.

Im about to take clones.

My water's PH is 6.6-6.8

Ive got a digital PH meter, but no EC meter

THis is where Im confused...

Should I feed EVERYTHING 1 tsp maxi/gallon? Seedling, clones and all?

Should I only feed the clones and older plants 1 tsp and not give anything to the seedling?

Should I tone down the mix to 3/4 Tsp/Gallon because my Sunshine mix has lime in it?

True stoner!! Even a KISS method is confusing me! :rasta:
 
I'd start with a half tsp for the seedlings and 3/4 for the month olds. I stunted my seedlings by using full strength so be careful. You'll probably need some ph up.
 

Hackk

Member
So this is the first time I'm giving MB a shot, and I have a question... Do any of your rez's bubble up a lot now? I've never had bubbles to this magnitude before (like a bubblebath, but larger), and Im just wondering what my have caused it.
 
P

Purple Monster

jeebus. I feel like a maxibloom reseller lately, everything maxiblooooom!

firekv.jpg


Here's that mob boss frost comin' along. Day 53
mobbossfrostday53.jpg


mehhhh. it never ends. (the frost)
 
C

Cheeb

Nice Pics!

I've been adding Bloombastic 1mL/Gal w/ my Maxibloom at 7g/Gal with really promising results.

I typically stop there and dont get into a whole lot of additives. Bloombastic however when used from week 2 flower forward most definitely has them larger earlier in the game.

My question is ..

..would I be screwing up the nutrient profile if I add pro-silicate on top of the above...or even just Maxibloom and Pro-silicate for veg.

I'm having to use pH up anyway and way back when I used to use pro-silicate I really liked how strong it made the branches. Pro-Silicate seems like a very affordable pH which also had the benefit of making leaves thicker and plants sturdier.

Any input?
 
I think you should be fine as silica is a micro and the amount added is probably minute. I'm about to implement protekt into my schedule as a ph up, always nice to kill two birds with one stone.

As far as mixing goes, a magnetic hot plate stirrer is the way to go followed by a paint mixer drill attachment. The stirrer is rather expensive($1-200) but quality scientific tools are good to own.
 
I think you should be fine as silica is a micro and the amount added is probably minute. I'm about to implement protekt into my schedule as a ph up, always nice to kill two birds with one stone.

As far as mixing goes, a magnetic hot plate stirrer is the way to go followed by a paint mixer drill attachment. The stirrer is rather expensive($1-200) but quality scientific tools are good to own.
Basic stirplate for yeast suspension

Materials
1 box (sizes nearly unlimited)
1 computer fan 12v
1 dc power supply 6v
1 rare earth magnet
1 rheostat (pot) 25ohm 3watt
1 power toggle switch (optional)



Nearly any wood or plastic box large enough to hold a muffin fan will work. Fry’s sells small project boxes for around $10. Cigar boxes or smaller wine boxes would work as well. Use your imagination, even the cheapest of pine boxes look great with cherry stain and a few coats of polyurethane. I’ve even seen a brew board post where a guy built one into a plastic tool box, which conveniently held other small brew gadgets on the inside.

Computer fans are cheap. Failing computers are a great source of fans, either in the power supply or case (read: FREE). If not, these fans are available at any computer parts store for $5 to $10. Get a 12v fan that is roughly 4” x 4”.

DC power supplies are usually abundant. Anyone who has gone through several cell phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics probably has a drawer somewhere full of unused power supplies, so ask around (again read: FREE). Otherwise, your friendly neighborhood Radio Shack should have them for a few dollars. A 6V DC power supply is what you’re after, though a 9V or 12V would work with fiddling.

Rare earth magnets can be harvested from dead computer hard drives. All you need to do is open the hard drive case and remove the magnet from the read/write head (again, read: FREE). I've gotten a lot questions about just how to get these magnets out of the hard drive, so I created a separate instruction page for harvesting magnets here. Alternatively, you can find rare earth magnets at most electronic stores or online at McMaster.

Rheostat's can be found at electronic shops. Radio shack has the 25ohm 3watt variety cheap. Sometimes you can find them at Fry’s, electronic stores, or online at P3America.

Toggle switches are a few bucks and available at Radio Shack. They aren’t necessary but are convenient. I like to have my stir plate plugged in and then power it on/off with a switch. Though you can save yourself some effort here and control power by simply plugging/unplugging the power supply from the wall outlet.

Rheostat Tip
The computer fan spins so fast that you really only need 10-20% of its power. Spinning much faster than that will spin the magnets so fast that excessive turbulence is created inside the flask (suspending the yeast is one thing, making them pull 5 G’s is another). The 25ohm pot provides enough resistance to get the fan spinning at its fastest potential, will its minimum speed being just about right for yeast suspension. The combination of 12v fan and 25ohm rheostat seems to be a good one for both 1 liter and 2 liter flasks, though nearly any combination could work with some tweaking. If a 9v or 12v power adaper is used, you can employ a fixed resistor or second rheostat to add resistance and slow the fan down. One of my stirplates uses two pots, one as a master to set the the general speed of the fan (this sits entirely on the inside of the box). The second pot is the fine control which is mounted to the box wall with the control knob on the outside.I am not an authority when it comes to electricity. In fact, it took several whiteboard sessions from a buddy to explain this to me. So if my rude descriptions aren’t good enough you can do some Googling for Ohm's Law. This can get a little confusing if you're not already familiar with it, and personally once they started putting letters in math I never did so well. Instead of using two pots there’s always the option of using an inline fixed resistor in place of the master pot, but with the variable resistance of a second pot you get a little wiggle room. This wiggle room is particularly helpful if electrical theory is not your strong suit.

Assembly
I don’t think I can describe the wiring in way that would be detailed enough to be helpful. So the following is a very general description. Splice your fan’s power cable and connect it to the cable of the 6v DC power supply. I soldered my connection and covered with shrink wrap, but wire nuts and/or electrical tape would probably suffice. The toggle switch and pots will also need to connect into the power line (if you use two pots, just put a short jumper cable between the pots for power and ground). Setting all the components in place and making your best guess would work fine. If the system doesn’t work, switch something around. If you’re handy with an ohmmeter, you can save yourself some time. Or like me, find someone who is skilled in this area and promise them some homebrew if they lend a hand.

Use
I’ve followed the advice of Jamil Z from Mr Malty. Jamil gives an incredibly informed and detailed explanation of yeast, starters, and pitching on his site. I make a batch of wort two days before my brew day. I cover with a hepifilter from MoreBeer, but plain old foil will do. After the wort has cooled, yeast is pitched and aerated (I use an O2 stone) I put the flask on the stirplate and spin for 48 hours. Generally speaking, a properly prepared starter can increase yeast cell counts from 100 billion to 240 billion in two days.
forget the part about slowing the fan speed down(they aint trying to mix nutes)(but i though it would be cool thing for us organo heads)this should render the mixing problem.use hot water from the tap or use a lil boiling water from the stove and cut with cool water.peace
 

komrade komura

Active member
Chornic Day 35 in da box (refugee kiss remix)

Chornic Day 35 in da box (refugee kiss remix)

Still cruising along. Chronic getting fatter than a pregnant wife...but then it's chronic, whatcha expect.

GH Micro, GH Bloom, small dose CAL/MG

Burned the tips a bit when I hit them everyday with nutes, so am dialing it back to nutes every other day, water only in between.

Although I am finding that the Chronic drinks less than the other strain in the mix....Motivation is like Charlie Sheen on a bender.

Take a look...good genetics, good nutes...as long as I don't fucking kill it...it will be a success.

Egyptian People 1 Bad Guys 0 (a prayer)
 

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