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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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planty

I am thinking about installing a ball valve in the headers that feed my beds so I can shut the flow to the sprayers off and before the ball valve install another transfer barb with another piece of spaghetti line (Your favorite HL!!) up to a tornado mister mounted to a stake.

Then I could just fill my tank with 50-100 gallons or whatever and just spray the whole field down...

I am tryin to steal an idea and make it work in my set up some how...if I fail...Localhero..know where I can get one of those crop planes?
 
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theJointedOne

We should, imo, be able to slide away some straw and be looking at surface roots covering the entire surface of the soil. If we can do that, then we are using the best part of our soil to full advantage and watering technique is on point.

:) :)
 

localhero

Member
Planty thats not even od thats an orchard. cutting down trees will be fine as long as you put them to good use. gfs grandfather had his dreams invaded by an angry tree spirit after he cut down this really old starfruit tree. you have been warned. lookin really good, lets see it with 20 bales of straw laid out.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
ahhhh. now this straw thing is starting to appeal to me. need to get some anyway for the strawberries we just planted. How many 300 gallon pots do you get per bale?
 

Feb2006er

Active member
15 foot spacing on 300 gallon pots, minimum. 27,000 square feet, or around 2500 sq meters for 120x300 gallon pots. So a bit more than a half acre. That would be one seriously intensive half acre of ganja farming.

A pro grower with a dialed in system could yield half a ton or more. Damn. Let me know if you want me to come over and set that up for you. ;)


I wish I could tell ya to come on over. A setup like planty's would be my dream. The outdoor space is the hardest thing to find. Maybe next year.
 

localhero

Member
ha i was thinking the same thing when i was told too high a pressure will turn those sprayers into misters. you could always just float a weather balloon with some spagetti line running up to it if you cant locate a cropduster.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
Here is my space with 60 300s with 15 ft center spacing(9 ft walkways), it took just under a half acre. Got up on the roof to take this pic a while back after we got done filling em up.

It would take me a 100' wide 320' long space to do 120 pots.

I was just talkin about the water system being able to do up to 12 zones with 10 sites per zone

Next years system will have 3 more zones added to it. I have the space. I'm just attached to these huge pines on my property a bit, but I feel like falling them and milling them on site for more fencing and expanding the garden next year will probably be what I end up doing...or something. Off 90 300s I'd hope to get at least 650.

I know my 6' diameter pots look teeny compared to toms 8'...Next years additions will be 10' diameter...!!

Shit Dude, You got some big balls. Probably can see that from outer space.
 
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theJointedOne

Hey P can you recommend what kind of system i will need to get h20 from the well down the hill up to my tank?
 
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planty

I don't like late finishing plants. They do not do well in my area. I would like to be done by the 3rd week of October.

The straw will happen by the end of the week. I'm going to plug in on the 21st. Mid week the night temps are supposed to dip near freezing again and I just don't want to risk them being set back a few days after transplant.

If I was already in the ground and had a 4' diameter root system, I wouldn't be sweating some 34 and 37 degree night temp forecasts..
 
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theJointedOne

i think i found what i need.

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/...on=P2WP&modelname=WX10 &modelid=WX10K1AT

edit-

so i also had aquestion for the irigation og's on here. ive always been a hose guy (water by hand with hose or bury soaker hose in large beds) and running drip lines is a new thing for me. I have a 2500 gallon container on top of a terraced hill with roughly 24 containers spread out over 6 terraces. it goes 2-5-4-5-3-3-2 give or take a few from up hill to the bottom on a roughly 25-35 degree sloped hill.

now my plan is to just have a main line running from the tank and make a seperate line for each row...then have two drip lines with soakers per container coming off each row line.

is this a good plan? I like to keep things simple and thought this might work. I plan on having the entire setup on a battery operated timer ( is this possible? good idea?)

ive also heard or read that the water pressure on a drip system fluctuates on a hill terraced setup b/c of gravity and other physics stuff? is that true. will i be able to get a steady flow from top to bottom or will it be low pressure up top and high down low?

i have 100 gallon smart pots and some other sized ones here and there but the 100's are my main stay

thanks ahead of time to all that reply...

edit 2-

ok so i just realized i'm relying on gravity and the pressure of ~2000 gallons of water in the tank to move the water to my plants. Is this enough? i didn't even think i might need to get a pump to pump from my tanks? i don't think i do but iv'e eaten only edibles today and my mind is thinking about all the possibilities!!!
 

localhero

Member
you will have negative head pressure. there are pressure regulating drippers out there. meaning they should emit evenly throughout the line no matter what head difference. as long as the point of exit isnt above water level. dont get the crappy megalomart dripper emmiters. might have to do some asking around and finding out. yeah u can use a battery powered valve timer thingy like this: http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/btimers.php put that on the supply line and ur set.

edit heres some pressure compensating emmiters : http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/pcdrippers.php

edit part two of pressure compensating emiters:

PC emitters deliver a precise amount of water regardless of changes in pressure due to long rows or changes in terrain. They can simplify the designing of a system and greatly reduce maintenance since they rarely get plugged. Inside the emitter is a flexible diaphragm that regulates the water flow and tends to flush particles from the system (self-flushing). The reason we offer different PC emitters is to accomodate a range of water pressure, price and functionality.
 
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theJointedOne

planty- yes, i had read that thread many times and dont know why i forgot bout it, it looks pimp, only 13 pounds

localhero- hey thanks bro, i saw this site and its tight! very nice thank you so much for that explanation

so i found these.

Cobra Stake Drip Emitter (Antelco Asta®) New!
The Cobra is a landscape spike dripper that delivers precise amounts of water directly to the plant root zone. It needs a 1/4" transfer barb (14TB) and a length of 1/4" tubing to connect it to your mainline tubing. It is useful in nurseries and for root stock and landscape applications.

so i am assuming i run my main row line and just tap it with the 1/4 inch drip and attach the 1/4 inch drip to this emitter and have two emmiters per container?

thanks god for non digital timers!
sorry about all the ??'s i'll quote a fellow icmagger , when it comes to drip "im a noob, noob noob noob" haha ok thanks again

gas powered thread http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=50389
 

localhero

Member
youll need way more than 2 emmiters per container, i dont know about rootzone thingys. but with punch in emmiters you could add more or take away to adjust waterrings on a per plant basis. theres a whole bunch of ways to water i guess. like anything else with this game if there was only one good way then everyone would be doin it. check out humboldt locals watering system. that looks like the simplest way to go about getting an even waterring. youll need 1000's of feet of poly tube. lots of t connectors and im serious when i say get the easy connect ones at dripworks. the push in ones are a pain in the ass. im on pshop right now ill make a quick diagram of what i mean.
 

localhero

Member
ok this is what i believe to be humboldts watering style? or a variation of it, anyways this is what i meant:

picture.php
 
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