The best mini-split ductless heat pump/ac models list
- Thread starter Stonefree69
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Press the "start" button once (the button to the right of the vane button.) use the hr and min button to set the time. Press thè start button again and now the on time is set. Press the "stop" button and repeat procedure to set the off time. Easy peasyI'm expanding my room. Currently running 4kw+de-huy w/ 24,000BTU Mitsubishi Mr. Slim (have also been running my Mr. Slim 24/7 for 3+years. not one problem).
I am adding 4kw more lighting (a total of 8kw). My question is, would it do to upgrade to a larger unit, say 36,000-42,000btu, or set up another 12,000btu unit along side my 24,000btu unit? I recall reading earlier in this thread about running two units side-by-side, but never got anything specific.
Also Asslover, I have yet to figure out how to program my Mr. Slim's on/off timer from the remote...lol. As hard as I try, I can't get it. Any tips?
Thanks again to everyone for all the info. on this thread.
Highland420
New member
newbie, veg vs flower split A/C units
newbie, veg vs flower split A/C units
Suggestions for splits on two separate rooms. Room 1 begging room. 20x20x10 and a flower room same size. Room 1 10 x1000 air cooled. Room 2 10x1000 air cooled?
newbie, veg vs flower split A/C units
Suggestions for splits on two separate rooms. Room 1 begging room. 20x20x10 and a flower room same size. Room 1 10 x1000 air cooled. Room 2 10x1000 air cooled?
those are nice sized rooms, my 6 x 1000w bloom room is 14 x 20ft
my mitsu 32,500btu can cool the room but not at the back of the 20ft run.
they just don't have the cfm's in the head units fan to blow the air back that far,
hoods and what nots hanging from the ceiling don't help either so I was dealing with hot spots and the entire back of the room opposite the head units was consistently
5-7 degrees warmer, i was using a large floor fan under the head unit helping air get to the back but still had heat issues.
i picked up a 24Kbtu breeze and life is soooo much easier now
i would definitely use 2 mini's in a 20ft room,
a std split system might be a better option for a 20x20 room
the blowers are a lot bigger and ducting can eliminate the hots spots
my mitsu 32,500btu can cool the room but not at the back of the 20ft run.
they just don't have the cfm's in the head units fan to blow the air back that far,
hoods and what nots hanging from the ceiling don't help either so I was dealing with hot spots and the entire back of the room opposite the head units was consistently
5-7 degrees warmer, i was using a large floor fan under the head unit helping air get to the back but still had heat issues.
i picked up a 24Kbtu breeze and life is soooo much easier now
i would definitely use 2 mini's in a 20ft room,
a std split system might be a better option for a 20x20 room
the blowers are a lot bigger and ducting can eliminate the hots spots
taggin this one for future reference...
any thoughts on what size/type of unit i might need for a 4000 watt gavita bare bulb setup in an area that typically goes over 100F outside temp for the duration of summer? I've gotten away with a 10k btu window banger for my 4kw aircooled setup in summers past but the environment is still typically less than ideal. I've been figuring a 2ton would probably work out ok along with a decent amount of air exchange assuming that any intake air is also within an acceptable temperature range...any thoughts? I'm considering building an enclosed trailer into my new room dimensions are 8.5w x 6'7"h x 20'-24'L with a wall @ 18' length to divide veg and bloom rooms(i imagine the veg side will also need some form of cooling...but with just a 6 bulb T5 running the portable swampy i've been running works okay-ish
any thoughts on what size/type of unit i might need for a 4000 watt gavita bare bulb setup in an area that typically goes over 100F outside temp for the duration of summer? I've gotten away with a 10k btu window banger for my 4kw aircooled setup in summers past but the environment is still typically less than ideal. I've been figuring a 2ton would probably work out ok along with a decent amount of air exchange assuming that any intake air is also within an acceptable temperature range...any thoughts? I'm considering building an enclosed trailer into my new room dimensions are 8.5w x 6'7"h x 20'-24'L with a wall @ 18' length to divide veg and bloom rooms(i imagine the veg side will also need some form of cooling...but with just a 6 bulb T5 running the portable swampy i've been running works okay-ish
barebulb Ive always read go 5000btu per 1000w barebulb and it works,....but from what i know now,
I'd size it a tad larger just because I can.
special considerations for that long length, see my post above.
also i read you need 10ft ceilings runing the gav's,
maybe wrong??
a state of sunshine
ya learn quick or get sunburned
I'd size it a tad larger just because I can.
special considerations for that long length, see my post above.
also i read you need 10ft ceilings runing the gav's,
maybe wrong??
lol...you know where i'm coming from...Solid advice 'gnome, evil would be proud
a state of sunshine
ya learn quick or get sunburned
I've understood that you can get away running the 1kw gavitas with 8' ceilings(really the ideal distance between bulb and canopy is what needs to be accounted for, so its either taller lids or lower canopy i suppose. also the reason that i am open to running up to 6 - 600w gavitas in the same sized room if it's just not gonna be feasible w/ the thouies)
so by the 5kbtu to 1kw math I would need roughly 20kbtu, but for the sake of oversizing a 2ton(24kbtu) should be adequate I suppose(20% oversized), and you would recommend the dual inside zone units and just put one on each end of the room? I was hoping that if I did in fact go the dual zone route that I would utilize one of the zones in my veg area(assuming that they have individual thermostat controls)
I'm really just tossing around a few ideas at this point, but the trailer build is sounding like a good plan to go with seeing as I've torn down and rebuilt more rooms than I care to count over the last couple of years...I'm just sick of spending all the time and money on construction for a room that im only getting 2-3 grows out of
so by the 5kbtu to 1kw math I would need roughly 20kbtu, but for the sake of oversizing a 2ton(24kbtu) should be adequate I suppose(20% oversized), and you would recommend the dual inside zone units and just put one on each end of the room? I was hoping that if I did in fact go the dual zone route that I would utilize one of the zones in my veg area(assuming that they have individual thermostat controls)
I'm really just tossing around a few ideas at this point, but the trailer build is sounding like a good plan to go with seeing as I've torn down and rebuilt more rooms than I care to count over the last couple of years...I'm just sick of spending all the time and money on construction for a room that im only getting 2-3 grows out of
ceosam,
my 32,500btu mr slim cooled my 6000w,
a 36Kbtu should be doing the job.
now, if by not cooling your meaning setting it at 80 and its running hi'r temps thats going to be normal imo.
you have to set the thermostat lower than your set temp.
when i added the 24Kbtu breeze is when i get to within 1 degree
of set temps, of course I'm running 56,500btu's
check the airfilters on the head unit.
i did some repotting for the 2nd bloom run i the room and wet the promix/FFOF to keeep the dust down, but not enuff i guess. when i fired up the ac for the next round and potted more plants i noticed it didn't seem to cool as much to where no matter the setting i was pushing hi 80s.
dust clogged my filters a bit and it was enuff to affect the system, they look
*kinda dirty* to me so i cleaned and BAM!
you need to keep those filters CLEAN!
efficiency goes strait downhill when they start getting dirty.
did you install yourself? or have a hvac,
how well is the room insulated?
my 32,500btu mr slim cooled my 6000w,
a 36Kbtu should be doing the job.
now, if by not cooling your meaning setting it at 80 and its running hi'r temps thats going to be normal imo.
you have to set the thermostat lower than your set temp.
when i added the 24Kbtu breeze is when i get to within 1 degree
of set temps, of course I'm running 56,500btu's
check the airfilters on the head unit.
i did some repotting for the 2nd bloom run i the room and wet the promix/FFOF to keeep the dust down, but not enuff i guess. when i fired up the ac for the next round and potted more plants i noticed it didn't seem to cool as much to where no matter the setting i was pushing hi 80s.
dust clogged my filters a bit and it was enuff to affect the system, they look
*kinda dirty* to me so i cleaned and BAM!
you need to keep those filters CLEAN!
efficiency goes strait downhill when they start getting dirty.
did you install yourself? or have a hvac,
how well is the room insulated?
can't see why a dual zone wouldn't work?
its an excellent idea actually
and yeah, i'd oversize, 20% sound good.
the main reason i went with another mini split is insurance in case the mr slim goes down, and it kept the back of the room cool
so the extra unit was very well worth it i my situation.
man that sucks!
only get 3 grows and having to move and rebuild.
I'd be all over that trailer idea
btw the breeze unit is 24,000btu and has the quick connects.
and you can break down and re-connect with out a refrigerant charge I think.
single zone though
air filter is clean, I saw that suggestion somewhere before. I set the A/C at 60*F and it wont go below 80 when all 6 lights are on. The room is well insulated (I think) -- R30 on the ceiling and windows and the walls are brick, no crawl space under the house and concrete floors.
I installed the unit myself, cookin by the book though -- with some advice you gave me via PM gave me the confidence. I skipped the nitrogen but I did vacc the lines a lot, and it held pressure for 24h.
I installed the unit myself, cookin by the book though -- with some advice you gave me via PM gave me the confidence. I skipped the nitrogen but I did vacc the lines a lot, and it held pressure for 24h.
you weighed the refrigerant when putting it in?
my 1st install was with an hvac guy,
he said he didn't care for flair nut fittingss and preferred to solder it.
go figure, 1 of the flair fittings leaked out after 3 wks, so you may have a leak that would hold vac for 24hrs.
go to the hvac supply house, they have like a dish soap that will detect a leak like soapy water on a tire.
check the flair nut connections. where ever it leaks its very oily.
mine was behind the head, peeled open the pipe insulation and you can feel it.
I had the guy cut-fit-n-and solder,
the damn flair nut was bad from the factory.
my 1st install was with an hvac guy,
he said he didn't care for flair nut fittingss and preferred to solder it.
go figure, 1 of the flair fittings leaked out after 3 wks, so you may have a leak that would hold vac for 24hrs.
go to the hvac supply house, they have like a dish soap that will detect a leak like soapy water on a tire.
check the flair nut connections. where ever it leaks its very oily.
mine was behind the head, peeled open the pipe insulation and you can feel it.
I had the guy cut-fit-n-and solder,
the damn flair nut was bad from the factory.
Just an update on the 21 SEER Gree Terra 24,000 BTU from GoDuctless.
Gree 24,000 BTU 21 SEER Terra Ductless Heat Pump Air Conditioner
Model: GWH24TD-D3DNA1A
Install went relatively smooth. Ran into an issue with the unit not getting any power which caused some head scratching for a while. Turns out the disconnect (goductless add-on accessory) was faulty; would not allow power to pass through it. We've temporarily bypassed the outside disconnect by just running the wires to the same lugs and will replace the disconnect with a new one asap.
Pulled a vac to -30.. held for about a half hour. Upon pressurizing the system we did find a small leak at the head unit gas line. Cranked it a little tighter and all seems well.
The unit is blowing ice cold air and outdoor unit is insanely quiet. Almost has me questioning the condition of my 31k Mr Slim install that I did a while back. This Gree was less the half the price and seems to be blowing harder, colder, & quieter. My Slim seems to cool 6400w just fine, but I've yet to throw 8000w in there to see if can handle it all.
All in all I give the Gree Terra 2 thumbs up. Hopefully all stays good and no issues develop down the road. I'll be sure to post any updates if my experience changes.
Note: This particular model did require the adapter to use my 410a manifold gauges. They did not fit the service port without the adapter.
CPS 1/4 SAE M x F 1/2 20 UNF Adapter
Gree 24,000 BTU 21 SEER Terra Ductless Heat Pump Air Conditioner
Model: GWH24TD-D3DNA1A
Install went relatively smooth. Ran into an issue with the unit not getting any power which caused some head scratching for a while. Turns out the disconnect (goductless add-on accessory) was faulty; would not allow power to pass through it. We've temporarily bypassed the outside disconnect by just running the wires to the same lugs and will replace the disconnect with a new one asap.
Pulled a vac to -30.. held for about a half hour. Upon pressurizing the system we did find a small leak at the head unit gas line. Cranked it a little tighter and all seems well.
The unit is blowing ice cold air and outdoor unit is insanely quiet. Almost has me questioning the condition of my 31k Mr Slim install that I did a while back. This Gree was less the half the price and seems to be blowing harder, colder, & quieter. My Slim seems to cool 6400w just fine, but I've yet to throw 8000w in there to see if can handle it all.
All in all I give the Gree Terra 2 thumbs up. Hopefully all stays good and no issues develop down the road. I'll be sure to post any updates if my experience changes.
Note: This particular model did require the adapter to use my 410a manifold gauges. They did not fit the service port without the adapter.
CPS 1/4 SAE M x F 1/2 20 UNF Adapter
Do you still have to vacuum lines with breeze quick connects???
nope, no vac needed,
the lineset/head unit and condenser is sealed.
the tricky part is the lineset is already connected to the head unit,
so you need 2 people minimum to mount the head unit and run the lineset to the condenser so it doesn't get kinked.
if you have 3people, install would be a total "breeze"...
I recommend the breeze for ease and for those with no hvac exp. or equip.
plus as i understand it, you can dis-connect, move the unit and still keep the charge.
hey flower farmer,
i bought my mitsu ac/heat pump 32,500btu for around $3000 2yrs ago.
just looked and wow!
prices have soared on the mitsu's since then.
btw,
if the gree is colder than the mitsu, check the mitsu's head units filters.
mine started to not cool after the 1st bloom run, and within a few weeks would cool under 88F
and wasn't pushing air out like it did new 4months prior
i was potting soil into grobags,
dust from that partially clogged the filters.
they have to be kept KLEEEN!
hope that's all it is
the lineset/head unit and condenser is sealed.
the tricky part is the lineset is already connected to the head unit,
so you need 2 people minimum to mount the head unit and run the lineset to the condenser so it doesn't get kinked.
if you have 3people, install would be a total "breeze"...
I recommend the breeze for ease and for those with no hvac exp. or equip.
plus as i understand it, you can dis-connect, move the unit and still keep the charge.
hey flower farmer,
i bought my mitsu ac/heat pump 32,500btu for around $3000 2yrs ago.
just looked and wow!
prices have soared on the mitsu's since then.
btw,
if the gree is colder than the mitsu, check the mitsu's head units filters.
mine started to not cool after the 1st bloom run, and within a few weeks would cool under 88F
and wasn't pushing air out like it did new 4months prior
i was potting soil into grobags,
dust from that partially clogged the filters.
they have to be kept KLEEEN!
hope that's all it is
oneofus
Member
@gnome,
I've been looking at the 12k btu Breeze because it's plug and play and I can do that myself (I just can't trust an electrician and an hvac guy to come out here and do the hook up...people just ask too many nosy questions) and I see on Fredrich's website that it has a 120v female plug on it. Since it's (obviously...) going to be outside do you know if they make some provision for keeping the plug-in connection safe from rain and snow and ice? I can't imagine they don't but I always like to ask a guy whose seen one in person...
Also, I live in a double-wide mobile home and the main electrical panel that feeds the house is a good 60'-70' away from where I need to put the external condenser(s). If I run a line from the main panel on the pole in my backyard to the condenser (inside a flexible metal conduit), do you think that's too far of a run for a 12/3 cable to feed this thing electricity? Do I go to a 10/3? The other concern is the actual plug ends heating up too much where the Breeze unit plugs into the line from the panel.
I'm actually thinking of getting two of them because they are single zone units(one for each of two flowering rooms - 2 small bedrooms - both roughly 8'Wx12'Lx8'H ceilings with long closets with sliding doors (one of the closets I use for cuts with two very large sheets of black plastic one on top of the other to cover the entire closet to stop light leaks so I can run the flouros 24/7 without worrying about light leaks into that room)
The home/rooms are not well insulated. (it's a mobile home...what can I say...? ). I'd really like to get the 2 ton but they are both single zone and I need good temp/RH control in both rooms so I don't think I can really use the 2 ton. The 2 ton is 240v, but that's not really a problem to wire-up like the 120v one(s), and I don't really care too much that the drawings/pics of the 2 ton 240v model doesn't show a female plug-in so I am assuming it uses lugs...do you know if the 2 ton has a plug or uses lugs to attach a line to feed it?
Lastly, do these have cold weather capability? My weather in winter sometimes gets to well below -0 F in the winter here (high desert plateau @ 4200' elevation). I know some brands can go to about -5 F or so or maybe a touch lower but can the Breeze (either one) handle such cold temps and snow and ice etc? Do I build a "warming/insulated/shelter box" for it for use in the winter...? BTW, each room is currently running 2x 1kw hps bulbs. In one room they are on a circular light mover (Sun Circle) and the other room is just two bare vert hps bulbs about 6' from the floor. I am currently using the swamp cooler that came with the home with ducts for each room. It does ok but I really really need better control of temps and most especially RH. Swampy's aren't that good at RH control to say nothing of trying to deal with outside air being drawn in during winter with temps at more than -0 degrees F...
If the 2 ton has lugs...maybe that would solve the problem of the plug-in connections possibly heating up too much on the 1 ton(s) and so maybe just say fuk it and get two 2 tons and hard wire the cable directly to the lugs...?
I don't think one can have too much btu capacity - both for cooling in summertime temps of around 100+ degrees F and warming in wintertime temps of subzero temps...doesn't mean I have to use it all and would also give me some room to add more lights later etc. if I decide to.
Lots of questions I know, but if you can help at all it would be greatly appreciated.
I've been looking at the 12k btu Breeze because it's plug and play and I can do that myself (I just can't trust an electrician and an hvac guy to come out here and do the hook up...people just ask too many nosy questions) and I see on Fredrich's website that it has a 120v female plug on it. Since it's (obviously...) going to be outside do you know if they make some provision for keeping the plug-in connection safe from rain and snow and ice? I can't imagine they don't but I always like to ask a guy whose seen one in person...
Also, I live in a double-wide mobile home and the main electrical panel that feeds the house is a good 60'-70' away from where I need to put the external condenser(s). If I run a line from the main panel on the pole in my backyard to the condenser (inside a flexible metal conduit), do you think that's too far of a run for a 12/3 cable to feed this thing electricity? Do I go to a 10/3? The other concern is the actual plug ends heating up too much where the Breeze unit plugs into the line from the panel.
I'm actually thinking of getting two of them because they are single zone units(one for each of two flowering rooms - 2 small bedrooms - both roughly 8'Wx12'Lx8'H ceilings with long closets with sliding doors (one of the closets I use for cuts with two very large sheets of black plastic one on top of the other to cover the entire closet to stop light leaks so I can run the flouros 24/7 without worrying about light leaks into that room)
The home/rooms are not well insulated. (it's a mobile home...what can I say...? ). I'd really like to get the 2 ton but they are both single zone and I need good temp/RH control in both rooms so I don't think I can really use the 2 ton. The 2 ton is 240v, but that's not really a problem to wire-up like the 120v one(s), and I don't really care too much that the drawings/pics of the 2 ton 240v model doesn't show a female plug-in so I am assuming it uses lugs...do you know if the 2 ton has a plug or uses lugs to attach a line to feed it?
Lastly, do these have cold weather capability? My weather in winter sometimes gets to well below -0 F in the winter here (high desert plateau @ 4200' elevation). I know some brands can go to about -5 F or so or maybe a touch lower but can the Breeze (either one) handle such cold temps and snow and ice etc? Do I build a "warming/insulated/shelter box" for it for use in the winter...? BTW, each room is currently running 2x 1kw hps bulbs. In one room they are on a circular light mover (Sun Circle) and the other room is just two bare vert hps bulbs about 6' from the floor. I am currently using the swamp cooler that came with the home with ducts for each room. It does ok but I really really need better control of temps and most especially RH. Swampy's aren't that good at RH control to say nothing of trying to deal with outside air being drawn in during winter with temps at more than -0 degrees F...
If the 2 ton has lugs...maybe that would solve the problem of the plug-in connections possibly heating up too much on the 1 ton(s) and so maybe just say fuk it and get two 2 tons and hard wire the cable directly to the lugs...?
I don't think one can have too much btu capacity - both for cooling in summertime temps of around 100+ degrees F and warming in wintertime temps of subzero temps...doesn't mean I have to use it all and would also give me some room to add more lights later etc. if I decide to.
Lots of questions I know, but if you can help at all it would be greatly appreciated.
