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Tea Article

sprinkl

Member
Veteran
Organic feeding can increase flavor though that will be disputed, most important thing is to flush and not overfeed when using chem feed. Decently grown organic buds are about as good as decently grown chem buds, the difference is people using chems are IME, in it for the money and try to push the plants harder to yield more, thus overfeeding and fucking up the delicate flavours. Also you tend to need less pesticides and other chems because the plant has good defenses.
If you are new to organics there are a lot of good organic/bio bottle feeds out there which are just as easy as the chemical feed. I wouldn't recommend using compost tea to feed the plant in your situation. As far as I know, compost tea is mostly used to replenish and activate the bacteria in the soil to break down organic food in the soil, and add some hormones and vitamins to boost growth.
The bottled organic feeds contain most of what people put in compost tea, but the NPK is calculated and stable so should give you no problems feeding your plants with this.
 

Numba1

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Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Organic feeding can increase flavor though that will be disputed, most important thing is to flush and not overfeed when using chem feed. Decently grown organic buds are about as good as decently grown chem buds, the difference is people using chems are IME, in it for the money and try to push the plants harder to yield more, thus overfeeding and fucking up the delicate flavours. Also you tend to need less pesticides and other chems because the plant has good defenses.
If you are new to organics there are a lot of good organic/bio bottle feeds out there which are just as easy as the chemical feed. I wouldn't recommend using compost tea to feed the plant in your situation. As far as I know, compost tea is mostly used to replenish and activate the bacteria in the soil to break down organic food in the soil, and add some hormones and vitamins to boost growth.
The bottled organic feeds contain most of what people put in compost tea, but the NPK is calculated and stable so should give you no problems feeding your plants with this.

Not exactly.

http://www.microbeorganics.com/#More_on_Compost_Tea_2013_
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
there's a grower with a thread in the outdoor forum using chaga tea on her plants.

thoughts?

hey Heady i got a question. i bought some milled malted barley from buildasoil. what is the best way to apply this? do i topdress it or put in a cup and steep for 2-3 hours,strain and then use it as foliar? i wanted to do folair bc i know this Sst has chitinese in it and from my research on botrytis this is the enzyme that the plants produce to burst the cell walls of fungi attacking the plant. i also top dress my soil 2 times a month with insect frass for the chitosan in it. my theory is since this sst already has the enzyme on the leaf of the plant that as soon as spore lands there it will be immediatly burst by the enzyme bc fungi have cell walls made of chitin and as we all know this enzyme is the one that is responsible for breaking down chitin into chitosan for plant avaliable source..thanks kyg
 

Mouse1818

New member
How many airstones for 5 gal bucket?

How many airstones for 5 gal bucket?

I'm only using 1/2 of the 5 gallon bucket for my tea is 1 air stone enough?
 

Mouse1818

New member
Thanks I've been to that site before just never read the whole thing.
I'm buying a hydro farm air pump with 4 outlets for a total of 15 liters per minute which should be more than enough for 1/2 a 5 gallon compost tea.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
hey Heady i got a question. i bought some milled malted barley from buildasoil. what is the best way to apply this? do i topdress it or put in a cup and steep for 2-3 hours,strain and then use it as foliar? i wanted to do folair bc i know this Sst has chitinese in it and from my research on botrytis this is the enzyme that the plants produce to burst the cell walls of fungi attacking the plant. i also top dress my soil 2 times a month with insect frass for the chitosan in it. my theory is since this sst already has the enzyme on the leaf of the plant that as soon as spore lands there it will be immediatly burst by the enzyme bc fungi have cell walls made of chitin and as we all know this enzyme is the one that is responsible for breaking down chitin into chitosan for plant avaliable source..thanks kyg
Good question, i would like to know the same thing. Maybe mix with hummus and add a bit a moisture. Only enough for a drop of water to squeeze out of a handfull of mix,for 24 hours until a blanket of mycelium forms at the top and then bubble into a tea. Over 48 hours will be too much time as the protozoa will start to dominate the tea. I have heard of this applicating baby oatmeal to get fungal dominated teas but i am with you on what barley will do by its self.
I have always figured to use bacterial dominated teas to combat fungus. Barley is a oat that supports fungal activity so i would lean tords something like a regular ewc tea because the ph will make harsh conditions for fungus like botrytus to thrive.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
Just to be spicific so there is no confusion.24 hour soak with oats and soil. Then no more than 48 hours on the aact. In betweek 36 and 48 will do.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
Actively airated compost tea. I guess that wasnt spicific either since it would be a mix that isnt just compost, my bad
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
hey Heady i got a question. i bought some milled malted barley from buildasoil. what is the best way to apply this? do i topdress it or put in a cup and steep for 2-3 hours,strain and then use it as foliar? i wanted to do folair bc i know this Sst has chitinese in it and from my research on botrytis this is the enzyme that the plants produce to burst the cell walls of fungi attacking the plant. i also top dress my soil 2 times a month with insect frass for the chitosan in it. my theory is since this sst already has the enzyme on the leaf of the plant that as soon as spore lands there it will be immediatly burst by the enzyme bc fungi have cell walls made of chitin and as we all know this enzyme is the one that is responsible for breaking down chitin into chitosan for plant avaliable source..thanks kyg

just saw this post sorry for not responding sooner!

very interesting i've been thinking along the same lines in terms of the direct application of chitinase enzymes on the pest bodies via foliar application of SST.

haven't tried it yet to be honest!

you've got the right idea, add the malted barley to water and agitate briefly, 2--3 hours is plenty, but as little as 20--30 minutes may be enough---worth experimenting with (get back to us with your observations!).

when i apply it to the soil i ususally just top dress it, it's so damn easy. it would be great to topdress simultaniously with the insect frass! i always top dress it with neem cake and ewc after transplants.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Actively airated compost tea. I guess that wasnt spicific either since it would be a mix that isnt just compost, my bad

I don't follow on the mix. Can you explain exactly what you mean?

On aact, I admit to being sarcastic. Actively aerated compost tea is actually a misnomer unless one is truly recirculating the liquid.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
I don't follow on the mix. Can you explain exactly what you mean?

On aact, I admit to being sarcastic. Actively aerated compost tea is actually a misnomer unless one is truly recirculating the liquid.

Mix as in there is not just compost, that there is also added ingredients that havent been heat or cool composted added into make the tea. I am just splitting hairs at this point but if i bubble alfalfa to get a protozoa soup i technically shouldnt call it a AACT because there is no compost involved. So when said that he should mix baby oatmeal with compost and add moisture, wait until mycelium forms 24 hours later and then put it into a bucket and bubble it into a tea for 36 hours. When i refered to it as a compost tea it could be confusing since all of the ingredients in the tea have not been composted
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
phenom i'm having a bit of trouble following your suggestions as well. i think you are suggesting a method of encouraging fungal dominance in compost to be used for act. but i think ky was asking about using malted barley for its enzymes, not as a food for fungal colonies. maybe this is where the confusion arose?

just to clarify:

i use the term "botanical tea" to refer to steeped or bubbled plant based solution eg alfalfa, kelp, horsetail, ect. the purpose is to extract useful phytochemicals into the water to make it easier to distribute them.

compost tea is a biological culture. i start with an innoculant like ewc and add foodstock like molasses. by keeping the dissolved oxygen content high and the temperatures in the proper range i can encourage a rapid proliferation of the beneficial microorganisms in the compost. that way a small amount of compost can provide ample microbes to a large volume of soil.

sprouted seed tea (SST) is an enzyme soup. enzymes are not living, rather they are specialized proteins that perform specific roles in the conversion of certain molecules.

an overly simplified way of thinking of it is compost tea provides the microbial workers in the soil, botanical teas provide raw material for those workers, and the SST provides the enzymes that act as tools to help the workers process the raw materials.
 

Phenome

-
ICMag Donor
phenom i'm having a bit of trouble following your suggestions as well. i think you are suggesting a method of encouraging fungal dominance in compost to be used for act. but i think ky was asking about using malted barley for its enzymes, not as a food for fungal colonies. maybe this is where the confusion arose?

just to clarify:

i use the term "botanical tea" to refer to steeped or bubbled plant based solution eg alfalfa, kelp, horsetail, ect. the purpose is to extract useful phytochemicals into the water to make it easier to distribute them.

compost tea is a biological culture. i start with an innoculant like ewc and add foodstock like molasses. by keeping the dissolved oxygen content high and the temperatures in the proper range i can encourage a rapid proliferation of the beneficial microorganisms in the compost. that way a small amount of compost can provide ample microbes to a large volume of soil.

sprouted seed tea (SST) is an enzyme soup. enzymes are not living, rather they are specialized proteins that perform specific roles in the conversion of certain molecules.

an overly simplified way of thinking of it is compost tea provides the microbial workers in the soil, botanical teas provide raw material for those workers, and the SST provides the enzymes that act as tools to help the workers process the raw materials.

Yes that is where the confusion arose. In my research i believe alfalfa is covered with protozoa and you can brush them off just like brushing all of the other microbes off soil particles when making aact,to be suspended in the tea to make a "protozoa soup".it is mentioned in teaming with microbes, jeff lowenfels.So in your experience what percentage to a gallon are you useing vermicompost and molasses to one gallon of water to keep the highest dissolved oxegen content. I am useing 2.38% vermi and .50% molasses.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
ahhh coolio i like that! i hadn't focused on the microbial potential of botanicals before. i think you've inspired a new topic of research for me :biggrin:

i don't have the tools to measure dissolved oxygen and biological populations at my disposal, so i rely on microbe man's recipe which is shared in this thread and on his website microbeorganics dot com.

A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.

*compost/vermicompost – 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - I recommend using 0.50% (just under 1 liter), (4 cups US) (1 quart US) [but you can use a maximum 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US)] – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!

*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.

*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder

edit: now that i posted this i'm realizing i often leave out the kelp and i never use the srp. how do you think this might be effecting my brew mm?
 

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