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Surf's multiroom living organic fabric pot soil beds

gram101

Member
nevermind i read that you plan on recycling the soil, once again thank you.
if you could answer the first question above i'd appreciate it.
 

surfguitar

Member
http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/nutrient-pack that's it

You need to mix it up and let it rest for a couple weeks min IMO. If you want some awesome weed get a bag of peat, lava rocks or perlite or diatomite rock or any aeration, best compost you can source(look for a local worm guy, craigslist maybe?) and mix those at 1/3 of each till you have 30 gallons(wet down the peat before you use it) than mix in the nutrient pack, put it in a garbage bin and let it sit. Only needs water but compost teas and other goodies don't hurt
 

gram101

Member
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.
I hate to takeover your thread with newbie questions but it could be a blessing to someone else reading as well.

What size peat do you advise me to use? or brand? I plan on using coco (good for aeration?) , peat, and compost.
 

surfguitar

Member
If your gonna use coco use it instead of the peat but peat is a better choice IMO. You want Canadian peat moss that comes in bales at homedepot/lowes etc
 

gram101

Member
Do you think its' helpful to sprinkle some Great White Myco in the new transplant hole, or could I sprink some of the nutrient pack from KIS.

That's my last question, thanks a lot man.
 

whiteberrieS

Roots - Bloody Roots
Veteran
This is what's in the KIS nutrient pack if anyone's interested.
"KIS Microbe Catalyst, Gaia Green Canadian Glacial Rock Dust, Calphos Soft Rock Phosphate, Pacific Pearl Oyster Shell Powder, Sulfate of Potash (Sul Po Mag, K Mag), Alfalfa Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Crustacean Meal, Kelp Meal, Ahimsa Organics Neem Cake/Karanja Cake, Tera Vita SP-85 Humic Acid, Fish Meal, Feather Meal, Steamed Bone Meal, Natural Calcite, Mycorrhizae*, and Benefical Microbes."

amends 4cuft of soil for $40 shipped, not too shabby for smaller growers or us guys starting out :)

So I got one of those packs cuz I saw it here and thought it sounded good but I had a situation and it ended up sitting in the middle of a 35 gallon barrel on top of 2 cu ft of coco and under 2 more cu ft of coco for a week...just got it into the kiddie pool and it smelled fuckin atrocious, but more or less how it smelled dry. Have you encountered anything like this using the nute pack? Was it ok? How horrible it smells has me thinking it went bad in there but it was pretty horrible dry, too. Gonna brew an OG Biowar root brew right now and give it that but I don't want to transplant into anything that smells like this shit does...Any feedback would be appreciated :tiphat:
 

whiteberrieS

Roots - Bloody Roots
Veteran
I see you recommended letting it compost a little up there^^^ ...definitely. So I guess I'll give it the OG brew and let it sit for a few days before transplant. Dont even want to go in there to water the little ones haha...fuckin stinks.
 

surfguitar

Member
Mix it up some white, the stinky ness is probably just the nitrogen breaking down anaerobicaly. It should be fine still ��
 

whiteberrieS

Roots - Bloody Roots
Veteran
I mixed it good when I moved it to the kiddie pool but good lord it smelled - smelled like a zombie took a shit in there. Gave it 2gal of ACT earlier, now it smells like a pet supply place, the kind with lizards and tarantulas nshit. Another couple days it should smell like something I want to plant in....And I cant wait to smell the nugs from this stuff hahaha.

Lacto B that's the EM1 right Seaf0ur? Want to check out making my own FPE's but I'm just switching to organics (bottles finally ran out)...EM1's on the shopping list already. EM1 and Sea90 probably my next 2 purchases...:tiphat:
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Get container, fill halfway with rice-wash. Rice wash is the water leftover when you rinse fresh rice. For example, go buy rice, whatever kind, bring it home, put it in a pot with warm water, swirl it a bit and then drain the [now milky colored] water. The water is now a rich source of carbohydrates. In this step, you can substitute rice with another carbohydrate source if you don’t have rice, as long as it is complex (don’t use simple carbohydrates like sugar, honey, syrup, molasses, etc). You can use wheat, barley, kinoa, other carbohydrates as the base to make your carbohydrate wash. This wash will attract microbes from the air, among them lacto bacilli.
Cover loosely and let stand for a couple days to a week
When is it done? When you see a light film on top (molds) and it smells a little sour and forms 3 layers. This is indicating the rice wash is infected with various microbes. This happens more quickly in warm temperatures because microbes are more active. Thus it is all relative since we don’t do this in controlled laboratory conditions.
The layers are distinct
Top layer: floating carbohydrates leftover from fermentation and possibly molds
Middle layer: Lactic Acid and other bacteria (cheese buffs will recognize this as a makeshift “rennet”). We will use this layer.
Bottom layer: Starch, byproduct of fermentation
Extract the middle layer using a siphon. This layer contains the highest concentration of lactic acid bacteria and lowest concentration of the unneeded byproducts
Get a new container, larger than the first. Take the extracted serum from the last step and mix it with 10 parts milk. By saturating with milk (lactose), we dissuade other microbes from proliferating, leaving L. bacilli. E.G. if you have 1cup of the serum, mix it with 10cups milk.

TIP: The best milk to use in unpasteurized natural milk. However, any milk will do, even powdered milk. In our experience, the best is unpasteurized natural but just use what is available. We just want to saturate with lactose to promote L. bacilli bacteria.
You want to keep this stage anaerobic as much as possible. You can use something like rice bran, barley bran, wheat bran, etc sprinkled on top of the milk. I use a sealed container with a one-way valve.Note: Beware of bubbling during this phase. It can lead to overflows if you filled to near the top. It can go through the one-way valves so keep an eye on it and don’t do this step around nice things
After about 1 week (temp dependent), you’ll see curds (made of carbohydrate, protein, and fat) on top of the milk. The water below will be yellow colored – this is whey, enriched with lactic acid bacteria from the fermentation of the milk.

NOTE: Microbes like L. bacilli are more active in warmer temperatures. The curds you see are a byproduct of the fermentation process. Fermentation is generally associated with microbial processes under anaerobic(no oxygen) conditions. Now, L. bacilli is a facultative anaerobe, that is it can live and work with or without oxygen, but less competition in anaerobic conditions.
The water below(whey+lacto) is the good stuff. You want to extract this. You can either skim the curds off the top, pour through a strainer, or whatever other methods to accomplish that

NOTE: Remember the curds, or byproduct of milk fermentation by L. bacilli, are great food. They are full of beneficial microbes like L. bacilli. Feed the curds to the soil, compost pile, plants, animals, humans – whoever wants them! They are full of good nutrients/microbes. No waste in natural farming.
To preserve at room temperature, add an equal part sugar/molasses to the serum. So, if you have 1L of serum, add 1kilo sugar or 1L molasses. Otherwise store in fridge to keep.

http://gilcarandang.com/recipes/lactobacillus-serum/
 

gram101

Member
surfguitar, i bought some sta-green spaghnum peat moss and i'm thinking i fucked up. do you think i should return it and buy some premier instead. sorry for blowin up your thread man but you give solid advice and i don't want to have to many voices in ear but at the same time get correct information.
 
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