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AndreNicky
Member
It was raging at huntington pier a couple days ago, I got some pretty sick rides on my sponge. Made me realize I really need to learn to surf lol, local waves have been shit latley so nothing to really learn on heh.
Any tips for a rookie surfer? I've been trying to learn on a short board but that's pretty tough around here so I'm gonna borrow a doyle from my brothers homie, that should help a lot.
Any tips for a rookie surfer? I've been trying to learn on a short board but that's pretty tough around here so I'm gonna borrow a doyle from my brothers homie, that should help a lot.
Gain wave knowledge on that sponge, learn where to be, when, when to charge, and when to relax. Energy management is key.
Many of us grew up with the mag by our beds huffing coconut sex wax and knew we had to be inthere man. Then we went out and got that toothpick of a shortboard cuz it was waycool, then got battered for months/years, giving-up, coming back, over and over.
Then, one bright sunny morning, or perhaps an evening glass-off, it all clicked. Dad told me it's this way for most, it's a revelation when it happens, "oh, fuck, I get it now". Keep at it is my advice and it will happen for you.
The plank (longboard, and preferable soft) will get you to this place where you are standing and riding waves much faster than that toothpick of a shortboard.
Balance is very important. Make sure you are far enough forward to paddle properly. Most beginners will pearl once and then spend the next year so far back on their board when paddling (we've all seen this, lol) that they create too much tail drag to ever catch a wave. They need to get that pearl out of their minds and just charge.
Turning is what keeps the board under us among other things, and the next biggest beginner mix-up is to treat the board more like a skateboard than a snowboard or skis. They'll lean like on a skateboard, dig a rail, and bail over and over. Like a snowboard or skis you need to keep the nose up, side lean, plus back lean is necessary (prolly notice this on the sponge) - and we need to have enough speed to carry us through the turn too or we are doomed. The more speed, the more aggressive the turn can be etc.
Surfing will keep us young in many, many ways. It's the best thing, deh kine kine.
Thanks to all the true masters who came before, and all who come from the peak and still drop-in late. Burn a fatty and get shacked - it's never too late to start
My home break on a clean day, empty barrels and perfect
Many of us grew up with the mag by our beds huffing coconut sex wax and knew we had to be inthere man. Then we went out and got that toothpick of a shortboard cuz it was waycool, then got battered for months/years, giving-up, coming back, over and over.
Then, one bright sunny morning, or perhaps an evening glass-off, it all clicked. Dad told me it's this way for most, it's a revelation when it happens, "oh, fuck, I get it now". Keep at it is my advice and it will happen for you.
The plank (longboard, and preferable soft) will get you to this place where you are standing and riding waves much faster than that toothpick of a shortboard.
Balance is very important. Make sure you are far enough forward to paddle properly. Most beginners will pearl once and then spend the next year so far back on their board when paddling (we've all seen this, lol) that they create too much tail drag to ever catch a wave. They need to get that pearl out of their minds and just charge.
Turning is what keeps the board under us among other things, and the next biggest beginner mix-up is to treat the board more like a skateboard than a snowboard or skis. They'll lean like on a skateboard, dig a rail, and bail over and over. Like a snowboard or skis you need to keep the nose up, side lean, plus back lean is necessary (prolly notice this on the sponge) - and we need to have enough speed to carry us through the turn too or we are doomed. The more speed, the more aggressive the turn can be etc.
Surfing will keep us young in many, many ways. It's the best thing, deh kine kine.
Thanks to all the true masters who came before, and all who come from the peak and still drop-in late. Burn a fatty and get shacked - it's never too late to start
My home break on a clean day, empty barrels and perfect
G
Guest 150314
Great words of wisdom.
K
kannubis
haven't taken the boards off the wall since my wife got surgerated on 5 years ago
less than 1 hour from the waves, but there they hang as decorations now
can still remember the rush like it was this morning though
enjoy
less than 1 hour from the waves, but there they hang as decorations now
can still remember the rush like it was this morning though
enjoy
I surfed in my younger days, I had a Hobie, Phil Edwards model. That'll tell you how long ago it was. The board was called a semi gun for the shape and it was 9'11". They didn't have the short boards then, and the large board were a lot less manuverable. But surfing is great no matter when or what your riding. Only I don't care for the cold water all my surfing was in Hawaii.
K
kannubis
the long one is 12' from the 60's, got an 8'3", & bill is 5'8" - wife brought bill home from hawaii 28 years ago or so
the reason I stopped going is cuz she can't play no more
the reason I stopped going is cuz she can't play no more
mr. bojangles
Member
Can't wait for winter time. Should be some awesome breaks to be found in the northern hemisphere.
Small kine
Small kine
AndreNicky
Member
Gain wave knowledge on that sponge, learn where to be, when, when to charge, and when to relax. Energy management is key.
Many of us grew up with the mag by our beds huffing coconut sex wax and knew we had to be inthere man. Then we went out and got that toothpick of a shortboard cuz it was waycool, then got battered for months/years, giving-up, coming back, over and over.
Then, one bright sunny morning, or perhaps an evening glass-off, it all clicked. Dad told me it's this way for most, it's a revelation when it happens, "oh, fuck, I get it now". Keep at it is my advice and it will happen for you.
The plank (longboard, and preferable soft) will get you to this place where you are standing and riding waves much faster than that toothpick of a shortboard.
Balance is very important. Make sure you are far enough forward to paddle properly. Most beginners will pearl once and then spend the next year so far back on their board when paddling (we've all seen this, lol) that they create too much tail drag to ever catch a wave. They need to get that pearl out of their minds and just charge.
Turning is what keeps the board under us among other things, and the next biggest beginner mix-up is to treat the board more like a skateboard than a snowboard or skis. They'll lean like on a skateboard, dig a rail, and bail over and over. Like a snowboard or skis you need to keep the nose up, side lean, plus back lean is necessary (prolly notice this on the sponge) - and we need to have enough speed to carry us through the turn too or we are doomed. The more speed, the more aggressive the turn can be etc.
Surfing will keep us young in many, many ways. It's the best thing, deh kine kine.
Thanks to all the true masters who came before, and all who come from the peak and still drop-in late. Burn a fatty and get shacked - it's never too late to start
My home break on a clean day, empty barrels and perfect
Awesome post!!!! Thanks for that Tom
The waves are finally starting to pick up around here after a week of being flat, hopefully I can put some of these tips to use in the next couple days.
B
bonecarver_OG
thats 100% correct!
that wave reminds me of the beach down at santa teresa back in costa rica about 10 years ago..
it took me only a few days to learn on a long board. it helps to be in a spot with constant waves.
one good bet for newbees is to try to find out if there is any risk for too big waves BEFORE they get out... its messy as hell to get back in to shore once the waves reach 4+ m heigth if you dont know what you are doing.
hehe gettting the long board to flip once when i didnt NOT catch the break rigth, and i got thrown many meters, catapulted thru the air, into a wash of a 4m wave. i got out but it was a gut cleaning experience.. i think i never swallowed that much salt water... puked like never before..
but funny enough that just makes one want to do it more... the adrenaline...
now if spain wouldnt have so crappy waves... atleast down here at the mediteranean its useless to try
peace all
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I love this photo and thought you guys would appreciate. No leash, flying down the face w/no hand drag on a slightly overhead screamer.
I can go a month or two without herb, but a month of two of no surf just sucks the soul right outta my body.
I can go a month or two without herb, but a month of two of no surf just sucks the soul right outta my body.
bbing
Active member
I appreciate no cord..as much as he is gonna appreciate a nice swim when the rest of that rail catches (that guy is not trimmed and the wave jacked up leaving a 9+ on 1' of rail and a skeg ready to breach)...
but if he surfs like me he pulled it.....
nice right
looks like Victors
but if he surfs like me he pulled it.....
nice right
looks like Victors
GEMiNi GENETiCS
Member
Niceeee! Im a beginner surfer from the east coast (long boards) but spent all winter in Hawai'i and caught some nice waves on my 6'3" tri in Maui, Kaua'i and had a freak day of 3m breaks in Kona...fun waves great wrecks amazin' kine all courtesy of the islands
Masterlow
Member
Wow... took me a long time to find this thread.. lol
I just got done with two days of storm surf here in Durban S.A.
Yesterday was flippin madness, 10-14 foot monsters coming through at Durban's main beach's, that was heart racing.. and my body feels like i tackled a train.. twice.
Today was much more chilled, 6-8 ft nice shapley tubes.. mmm I just woke up after passing out mid afternoon.. i thought i'd share my joy (and my pain...lol) with you guys.
Waiting on the next cyclone.. hope it comes through before the end of winter. Time to smoke a fatty and back to sleepy recovery land.
ML
I just got done with two days of storm surf here in Durban S.A.
Yesterday was flippin madness, 10-14 foot monsters coming through at Durban's main beach's, that was heart racing.. and my body feels like i tackled a train.. twice.
Today was much more chilled, 6-8 ft nice shapley tubes.. mmm I just woke up after passing out mid afternoon.. i thought i'd share my joy (and my pain...lol) with you guys.
Waiting on the next cyclone.. hope it comes through before the end of winter. Time to smoke a fatty and back to sleepy recovery land.
ML
saint
Member
A local guy,
I take it you were out during Earl? Wasn't much to him if you ask me. Course I wasn't on the OBX. Apparently that's where ish was really happenin.
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AndreNicky
Member
The waves have been pumping around here the last couple days and its been awesome.
On the days that have been a tad smaller I've been practicing my surf skills and I'm making some major progression, I've nearly got it down which is pretty amazing considering I'm learning on a 6'5" thruster lol. I attribute my success to drop knee bodyboarding, it really helped me break through the surf barrier.
On the days that have been a tad smaller I've been practicing my surf skills and I'm making some major progression, I've nearly got it down which is pretty amazing considering I'm learning on a 6'5" thruster lol. I attribute my success to drop knee bodyboarding, it really helped me break through the surf barrier.
Waves have been good around here for the few days. Swell jumped up yesterday and surfed it last night. Kinda lumpy due to the mix of swells hitting and the extreme tides. I'm a big guy, my shortest board that I ride regularly is a 7'4". That thing is a speed machine and very responsive...at least compared to my longboard.
Andre, I agree with you on the body boarding thing.
I used to body board and did drop knee style for years (anyone remember jack the ripper? Kainoa Mcgee? Those guys were my heroes).
When I decided to start stand up surfing, it was an easy transition. I still miss body boarding sometimes, especially when it's dumping on the inside.
HB.
Andre, I agree with you on the body boarding thing.
I used to body board and did drop knee style for years (anyone remember jack the ripper? Kainoa Mcgee? Those guys were my heroes).
When I decided to start stand up surfing, it was an easy transition. I still miss body boarding sometimes, especially when it's dumping on the inside.
HB.
Pastelero
Active member
